D4 (3.0) Timing Belt

[guthrie]

I cant seem to find the answer using Google. I understand that the timing belt on the 3.0 diesels must be changed at 168,000km. Is there a time limit as well?

My D4 is coming up to 7 years old... but only 130,000km so not quite there on km's..

[DiscoJeffster]

Yes there is also a time limit. 7 years as it happens if I remember correctly.

[DazzaTD5]

Yes and a bit more fun on a 3.0lt although not really that much harder than a 2.7lt

LAND ROVER DISCOVERY 3, DISCOVERY 4, RRS BODY REMOVAL - YouTube (https://youtu.be/pprfYFF-3Pc)

Regards
Daz

[101RRS]

Except a 2.7 body does not have to come off. I also think that while the book says the body comes off for the 3.0 injection pump belt, it can be done with the body on.

[DazzaTD5]

Thats the slightly harder bit, I'm onto the second one now, yes a AULRO member here did the first one with body on and noted it was prolly going to be quicker with the body off. I looked at the first one and very quickly knocked the idea on the head, I spent more time prating around with trying to work it correctly, than what it takes to remove a body.

Like I've said in other posts, what method a mechanic/repairer uses to do a job isnt overly important, as in if they find a particular method easier to do, then its likely they are going to do the job better.

Regards
Daz

[Plane Fixer]

Had my belts done a couple of months ago, 3.0 with the body on in Coffs Harbour. Belts and service $1990. I currently have 150000km.

[MRBeau]

But The KMS is actually 182,00kms, for the 3.0L.
The 2.7L is 168,00kms 7 years.
2.7l service interval is 24,000km 1 year = 168k
3.0l service interval is 26,00km 1 year = 182k
You might get away with leaving the belt up until the 182km mark, but for piece of mind I would recommend it.

[JonW]

Just did the timing belt on my D4 3 litre, had a look at the READ belt and decided that is a post tax return job, eff that.

Not too hard, will put up a new thread.

[DiscoJeffster]

Just did the timing belt on my D4 3 litre, had a look at the READ belt and decided that is a post tax return job, eff that.

Not too hard, will put up a new thread.

Did you mean the rear belt? I'd love to hear how that can be done DIY.

[JonW]

Yep the Rear Exhaust Accessory Drive belt for the HP fuel pump.

[DiscoJeffster]

Yep the Rear Exhaust Accessory Drive belt for the HP fuel pump.

I tell you what. I'm ultra sceptical about dealers and doing a complete job of this. How many mechanics just say F it and don't do the rear belt (charge you of course). That's my biggest worry. When the dealer did mine, did they do the job properly?

I wonder how many D4s will live to have two timing belt changes?

[JonW]

Jeffster, reading the thread is misleading. I did not do the rear belt as could not even see the housing, let alone the belt. Additionally, if that belt fails then the engine will splutter to a stop whereas the timing belt will end with a crunch and a busted engine.

I reckon you are right though. My timing belt besides being dirty had no cracks and is in good condition. As is the serpentine belt so I kept both for spares.

[Grentarc]

Thats the slightly harder bit, I'm onto the second one now, yes a AULRO member here did the first one with body on and noted it was prolly going to be quicker with the body off. I looked at the first one and very quickly knocked the idea on the head, I spent more time prating around with trying to work it correctly, than what it takes to remove a body.

Like I've said in other posts, what method a mechanic/repairer uses to do a job isnt overly important, as in if they find a particular method easier to do, then its likely they are going to do the job better.

Regards
Daz

Yeah, did mine (3.0) with the body on - the fact it needs to be timed is part of the pain, the other part is there is basically no room in there. It is possible, but I think it was 17 hours (so 34 man hours as there were two of us) to actually get the whole job done - the timing belt was the easy part, the HPFP belt was ridiculous

[BigJon]

Doing the fuel pump belt is a fair pain, but can be done body on. Lots of wiring, hoses, etc to move to reach back there. You need a good torch and a mirror, but it isn't too much harder than a 2.7l.

[Graeme]

What do you do about the pipe that drops down behind and close to the belt cover making it very difficult to remove and replace the cover? From memory the pipe is bolted lower down in a spot that's not accessible.

[BigJon]

I must have unbolted it. I know the pipe you mean and I definitely moved it.

[PAT303]

How long and how hard is it to remove a D3-4 body.

[DazzaTD5]

How long and how hard is it to remove a D3-4 body.


With no accessories.... 2 hrs flat.

Regards
Daz

[rar110]

Wow. [emoji106]

[Graeme]

...providing the lifting equipment is available and the person doing the removal is experienced at the task.

[letherm]

Here's the quick way.[bigwhistle]

discovery body removal - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bk-azqvlU98)

Martin

[PAT303]

With no accessories.... 2 hrs flat.

Regards
Daz

Bloody hell thats quick.

[DazzaTD5]

Bloody hell thats quick.

Yes
Its my stick it to the ones that say "oh we do it with the body on" [tonguewink][tonguewink][tonguewink]

Regards
Daz

[DazzaTD5]

...providing the lifting equipment is available and the person doing the removal is experienced at the task.

Yes
of course but I dont look at it any other way

[tonguewink]
Regards
Daz

[BigJon]

Yes
Its my stick it to the ones that say "oh we do it with the body on" [tonguewink][tonguewink][tonguewink]

Regards
Daz

I don't have a suitable hoist for body removal.

[DazzaTD5]

I don't have a suitable hoist for body removal.


Not directed at you John (or actually anyone here). Was having a crack at the odd repairer that does it for a living and seems to think they are clever vegemites for doing it with body in situ.

I suspect the loud and proud ones, simply arent changing the rear belt...

Regards
Daz

[BobD]

How long does it take with my list of accessories?

[DazzaTD5]

How long does it take with my list of accessories?

Argh.......
Dunno about the ECB bar, but with the ARB bar I dont remove that, it stays with the chassis, same with the rear bar, stays with the chassis.....

What causes delays are when the accessories (IHMO) are fitted quick and cheap ****, so...
*Aux lighting where the wiring goes through the grill with no removal disconnect plugs.
*Comms coax that again runs through the grill.
*Rear bar that is wired using cheap **** scotch clips and tapped into the wrong side of the rear harness plug.
*When the GOE manual air up kit has been routed again without thought to body design.

Regards
Daz

[kenl]

Hi Dazza,

I think you have done what every other land rover specialist should have done, and that is the hard yards to get the procedure to do a body off down pat and then reap the rewards.

Unfortunately your posts are about a month a late for me to use your services, I've just had half a job done because body off was a HUGE HUGE job.

Anyways you live and learn.

[Mungus]

Argh.......
but with the ARB bar I dont remove that, it stays with the chassis, same with the rear bar, stays with the chassis.....


Regards
Daz

Apologies to the OP as a little off topic!
Hi Daz,
I am about to get this body off procedure done on my MY14 HSE fitted with ARB Summit bar. I was hoping to leave the bar on, but looking at videos it appeared the headlights need to be removed; however with the summit bar on they can only be moved slightly out, not removed.
In your experience do the headlights have to be removed or is this purely to get to wiring harness connectors to front bar?

[Tombie]

But The KMS is actually 182,00kms, for the 3.0L.
The 2.7L is 168,00kms 7 years.
2.7l service interval is 24,000km 1 year = 168k
3.0l service interval is 26,00km 1 year = 182k
You might get away with leaving the belt up until the 182km mark, but for piece of mind I would recommend it.

You may want to revisit those figures...

LR for the 2.7 are at 96,000km - of this I am certain.... [smilebigeye]

[DazzaTD5]

Apologies to the OP as a little off topic!
Hi Daz,
I am about to get this body off procedure done on my MY14 HSE fitted with ARB Summit bar. I was hoping to leave the bar on, but looking at videos it appeared the headlights need to be removed; however with the summit bar on they can only be moved slightly out, not removed.
In your experience do the headlights have to be removed or is this purely to get to wiring harness connectors to front bar?

i
If you listen in on the video I'm sure I say, release the locking sliders for the headlight, move it forward, disconnect any plugs you need, especially on the passenger side, then reposition the head light back. All the ARB equipped D3, D4 ive done, you couldnt actually remove the headlights all the way out. You can if you unbolt and slide the arb bar forward

Regards
Daz

[Mungus]

Cheers Daz. What video?

[discorevy]

post number 3 on this thread Mungus, btw , if you really need to remove a headlight with an arb bar, its a fair bit quicker to remove the three screws holding the inside headlight slider bracket on and remove it , the headlight will come out all the way

[speleomike]

Hi all

Earlier in this thread it was mentioned:


Yeah, did mine (3.0) with the body on - the fact it needs to be timed is part of the pain, the other part is there is basically no room in there. It is possible, but I think it was 17 hours (so 34 man hours as there were two of us) to actually get the whole job done - the timing belt was the easy part, the HPFP belt was ridiculous

My 2013 SDV6 D4 went in on a Wednesday to get the timing belt changed and its still at the indie. That's not last Wed but the Web before. They can't get access to the "diesel pump", which I presume is the HPFP mentioned above, as there is a pipe going over it which they are having problems removing. Apparently this pipe is not on the TOPIX manuals that they subscribe to.

Anyone had this problem?
Anyone know what the pip is that they can't seem to get access to to remove? (they said they needed a Mechanic with small hands)

Also what's a rear timing belt for? I would have thought that the diesel is injected when each value opens and that is controlled by the cam shaft.

Mike

[DiscoJeffster]

Hi all

Earlier in this thread it was mentioned:



My 2013 SDV6 D4 went in on a Wednesday to get the timing belt changed and its still at the indie. That's not last Wed but the Web before. They can't get access to the "diesel pump", which I presume is the HPFP mentioned above, as there is a pipe going over it which they are having problems removing. Apparently this pipe is not on the TOPIX manuals that they subscribe to.

Anyone had this problem?
Anyone know what the pip is that they can't seem to get access to to remove? (they said they needed a Mechanic with small hands)

Also what's a rear timing belt for? I would have thought that the diesel is injected when each value opens and that is controlled by the cam shaft.

Mike

It the drive belt that drives the high pressure fuel pump, driven off the rear of the camshaft.
This is why they recommend it body off on the 3L as it’s a ***** and is also a timed belt unlike the 2.7L.
I think it’s a fuel pipe that’s in the way, but don’t quote me.
Enjoy.

[Briar]

I cant seem to find the answer using Google. I understand that the timing belt on the 3.0 diesels must be changed at 168,000km. Is there a time limit as well?

My D4 is coming up to 7 years old... but only 130,000km so not quite there on km's..

According to the Service Manual the Timing belts are due at 84 Months (7 Years) OR 182,000km. See attached copy of D4 Service Schedule. 3.0 litre SDV6
158911

[Tombie]

Look up the arduous schedule (urban use is considered arduous and is worse than most)...

Might want to do it soon [emoji41]

These things cost a lot more if it fails than it does to service it slightly earlier.

[josh.huber]

Hi all

Earlier in this thread it was mentioned:



My 2013 SDV6 D4 went in on a Wednesday to get the timing belt changed and its still at the indie. That's not last Wed but the Web before. They can't get access to the "diesel pump", which I presume is the HPFP mentioned above, as there is a pipe going over it which they are having problems removing. Apparently this pipe is not on the TOPIX manuals that they subscribe to.

Anyone had this problem?
Anyone know what the pip is that they can't seem to get access to to remove? (they said they needed a Mechanic with small hands)

Also what's a rear timing belt for? I would have thought that the diesel is injected when each value opens and that is controlled by the cam shaft.

Mike

Are they a land Rover indie or just an indie??

I would not be happy

[speleomike]

Hi


Are they a land Rover indie or just an indie??
I would not be happy

They just do Landrovers & Jeeps. Picked up my car today. Jobs all done. Not real happy at the delay but its finished and they didn't charge for the extra time. They have previously done this with body off as usually it's been a turbo replacement as well. Mine didn't need a turbo replacement and they tried it with body on. They have just one mechanic that has small enough hands but started the job when he was away. I had a look at some pics the mechanic had of the tube that caused them angst. It was a PCV pipe, that needed to come off to get the HPFP off, and they had trouble undoing the bracket that held that on that PCV as its so close to the firewall.

Jill and I looked at YouTube video last night at the procedure for the timing belt replacement. Heck, it's so complex. I'd forget what bits go back where and how! Anyone on this forum that does this themselves has my admiration.

Thanks
Mike

[justinc]

Why remove the HPFP if only doing a belt?? There is absolutely no need to rrmove the body to replace fuel pump belts in any model wih the 2.7 or 3.0 engines...

[josh.huber]

Hi



They just do Landrovers & Jeeps. Picked up my car today. Jobs all done. Not real happy at the delay but its finished and they didn't charge for the extra time. They have previously done this with body off as usually it's been a turbo replacement as well. Mine didn't need a turbo replacement and they tried it with body on. They have just one mechanic that has small enough hands but started the job when he was away. I had a look at some pics the mechanic had of the tube that caused them angst. It was a PCV pipe, that needed to come off to get the HPFP off, and they had trouble undoing the bracket that held that on that PCV as its so close to the firewall.

Jill and I looked at YouTube video last night at the procedure for the timing belt replacement. Heck, it's so complex. I'd forget what bits go back where and how! Anyone on this forum that does this themselves has my admiration.

Thanks
Mike

Hey Mike,

Hope the bill wasn't too exxy then, I left my fuel pump in place. Bought a timing set it eBay and followed the LR manual, the main thing you need is something to learn your chest on when reaching in the hole. The good thing is you got your car back, at the price you were expecting.

[Graeme]

Why remove the HPFP if only doing a belt?? There is absolutely no need to rrmove the body to replace fuel pump belts in any model wih the 2.7 or 3.0 engines...I suspect it was the belt cover rather than the pump itself. That pipe running down the back of the cover that is bolted too far down to be accessible and as far as I could see impossible to access from below made the task of refitting the cover very time-consuming for me, fiddling around for a couple of hours until it happened to go into place. I suspect that with experience it could be refitted more readily. Removing the cover was much easier - just pull hard to distort the cover as required.

[justinc]

That pipe is easily undone, there is a bolt on the lower rear of the the passenger side head. After the battery tray etc is removed, Undo that and it's no issue.

[CraigE]

That pipe is easily undone, there is a bolt on the lower rear of the the passenger side head. After the battery tray etc is removed, Undo that and it's no issue.
JC & Dazza, Just a quick resurrection of this post with the 2.7, if there is a rear camshaft seal leak, is it body off to replace? I am chasing a leaks somewhere in the rear of the motor that is leaking onto the exhaust mesh area behind the turbo. Now I did replace the turbo feed double washer and fixed that leak, but there is one somewhere else, Not convinced it is the oil cooler, but will try and get a snake camera in there again to view. A little disconcerting when you have oil smoke coming out from under the guard. Is there any easy way to actually identify if it is a rear cam seal? Cant believe how difficult it is to see or access anything at the rear of the engine in these things.
Cheers
Craig