The making of a Provent bracket.

[Bohica]

121494

The first part of the Provent Bracket. Being a non welder I'm using epoxy on the joint. Being not too skilled in metalwork, I'm using flat iron and 90 degree angle iron. I'm going to have to get a few more clamps as the 15 hour cure time will drag this out for weeks!

The angle iron will bolt on to the burglar horn bracket. The flat will screw on to the upside down turn off switch bracket.

[gavinwibrow]

121494

The first part of the Provent Bracket. Being a non welder I'm using epoxy on the joint. Being not too skilled in metalwork, I'm using flat iron and 90 degree angle iron. I'm going to have to get a few more clamps as the 15 hour cure time will drag this out for weeks!

The angle iron will bolt on to the burglar horn bracket. The flat will screw on to the upside down turn off switch bracket.


Add pop rivets!!

[rangieman]

Add pop rivets!!
A couple of bolts with nylock nuts would be my pick[thumbsupbig]

[SSmith]

A couple of bolts with nylock nuts would be my pick[thumbsupbig]
Everything landrover is better with pop rivets.......

[rangieman]

Everything landrover is better with pop rivets.......
I should have known that would come back to bite me[bigrolf]

[Bohica]

I'll test a section with a hammer. It is pretty strong. Did I mention, Lotus epoxy their cars.

[Bohica]

121533

Nearly there.

[SSmith]

Looking good.

[Roverlord off road spares]

I'll test a section with a hammer. It is pretty strong. Did I mention, Lotus epoxy their cars.
Make sure the epoxy doesn't soften from heat, it can get hot in the engine bay. I would go the bolts and nylocks as a precaution like rangieman suggested.
Re lotus the build quality is probably a bit better than D2/D2a's. LOL

[Mclaren00]

Devcon it
We use to repair casting and remachine them and holds up well

[Bohica]

Make sure the epoxy doesn't soften from heat, it can get hot in the engine bay. I would go the bolts and nylocks as a precaution like rangieman suggested.
Re lotus the build quality is probably a bit better than D2/D2a's. LOL

Humm LOTUS, Lots Of Trouble Usually Serious. I'd like an Elise but. I saw an Exige years ago. It came up to my hip. Nice car.

The epoxy, JB Weld is good up to 287 degrees C. Nylocks are good up to 250 degrees C. I've got nylocks to fasten the Provent to the bracket.

How hot would the engine bay get near the fire wall, exhaust side?

[gavinwibrow]

Humm LOTUS, Lots Of Trouble Usually Serious. I'd like an Elise but. I saw an Exige years ago. It came up to my hip. Nice car.

The epoxy, JB Weld is good up to 287 degrees C. Nylocks are good up to 250 degrees C. I've got nylocks to fasten the Provent to the bracket.

How hot would the engine bay get near the fire wall, exhaust side?


Hence the original suggestion for rivets. There was an article on here many years ago on the incredible strengths of appropriate rivets, especially on sheer, and perfect as a backup for this type of application. Smaller hole than bolts/nylocks, less visually obtrusive, and not as affected by heat. Cheers

[Bohica]

121713121715121716121717121718121719121719

Almost done, just the paint and pop rivets, as added security.

[InMused]

Almost done, just the paint and pop rivets, as added security.

Look great.

[Bohica]

Would you believe it. The one and only join that did not have the pop rivet broke!
I'm glad I listened to those who said bolts and or pop rivets!

Thanks
Julian

[rangieman]

Would you believe it. The one and only join that did not have the pop rivet broke!
I'm glad I listened to those who said bolts and or pop rivets!

Thanks
Julian
Mmmmmm i guess i wont be buying a Lotus [bigwhistle]

[Roverlord off road spares]

Would you believe it. The one and only join that did not have the pop rivet broke!
I'm glad I listened to those who said bolts and or pop rivets!

Thanks
Julian
At least you learn from your mistakes, probably the epoxy held initially until oxidation got to the metal surface and it let go. Too bad you didn't work at a TAFE, you could have got one of the students to weld it up for you as assingment.

[Bohica]

At least you learn from your mistakes, probably the epoxy held initially until oxidation got to the metal surface and it let go. Too bad you didn't work at a TAFE, you could have got one of the students to weld it up for you as assingment.

The expoxy would stop ant oxygen getting to the steel. This was the next day I noticed the failur. Not long enough. Apparently J B Weld is good for filling in holes, but with any vibration it falls apart. A bloke I work with is a former mechaniccal engineer who worked at Tickfords. He offered to weld it, I thought the epoxy would work. Maybe there is a steel epoxy that works.

[AK83]

.... Maybe there is a steel epoxy that works.

I'm keen try this Loctite product (http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/epxy_metal_s/overview/Loctite-Epoxy-Metal-Concrete.htm)

I have a couple of welders, both arc and a mig, but sometimes they're inconvenient for some jobs.

A quick Youtube video comparing some epoxy products.
2x Loctites, JB Weld, Gorilla, Devcon FasMetal

The Loctite Metal Concrete wins the test, I thin JB Weld second last. List of results at about the 5:40 mark in the vid.


https://youtu.be/bM4IGweHT2k

[gavinwibrow]

I'm keen try this Loctite product (http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/epxy_metal_s/overview/Loctite-Epoxy-Metal-Concrete.htm)

I have a couple of welders, both arc and a mig, but sometimes they're inconvenient for some jobs.

A quick Youtube video comparing some epoxy products.
2x Loctites, JB Weld, Gorilla, Devcon FasMetal

The Loctite Metal Concrete wins the test, I thin JB Weld second last. List of results at about the 5:40 mark in the vid.


https://youtu.be/bM4IGweHT2k

Bit of a high-jack, but related if you will excuse, given I recommended the rivets to you.
The connector on my RRC rear window demister has come off and being next to glass, is not the best for a soldering attempt. I'm looking for something strong and which will conduct electricity to get the pin back on and working - any of there likely to meet the bill, or any better suggestions from the collected wisdom here?
Cheers Gavin

[AK83]

I soldered mine back on with a soldering iron.

The main PIA about the whole job was removing and replacing the window. I remember it was heavy and I had to do it on my own so very PIA-ish.
I'm not expert enough at soldering(as well as welding) so I didn't dare try to solder it without removing the window first. Upsidedown soldering must surely be an art form(that I'm not familiar with).

It didn't require much I remember, and I can't remember the glass getting at all hot. It was touch and dab in quick actions to allow the solder to flow and cool(to solidify).
Memory about the entire process isn't the best, as this was getting on for 30years ago now, on a 79 RRC.

Memory is only clear and certain that the soldering process was the easy part.
The annoyance was removing those annoying philips type screws(hard to do) and holding the window frame with one hand whilst undoing the last fixing with the other, then the juggling the frame whilst trying to get screw into the correct spot and then lining up the frame so that it closed properly.

If a strong enough glue exists that conducts electricity at about 30amps .. I have no idea?