UHF antenna swap - roof rail to roof platform. Which connector best?

[l00kin4]

Hi, a question for the forum gurus. I currently have a bracket on the roof rail of my D4 for my UHF antenna. Apologies for rubbish photo.
121509
Works fine but sometimes being on the side rather than more central (East West across the vehicle) makes it more vulnerable I think - trackside trees etc.
Usually when I'm on a trip I put my roof platform on and I'd like to have the option to mount the antenna more centrally on the platform and I'll probably have a spring mount which could also save it if it does hit anything.
I have the antenna cable routed up through a grommet in the tailgate with the cable running along under the top edge of the tailgate. What I'd like to do is add a connector in the cable so I could simply(?) disconnect from one location and connect to the other. I was thinking a mini uhf connector with a weatherproof boot / sleeve on it. See any problems with this? I know there are losses associated with any extra connection but the cable run head unit to antenna is pretty short - less than 3m. Would another connector type suit better?
Open to suggestions...

Thanks,
David

[gavinwibrow]

Hi, a question for the forum gurus. I currently have a bracket on the roof rail of my D4 for my UHF antenna. Apologies for rubbish photo.
121509
Works fine but sometimes being on the side rather than more central (East West across the vehicle) makes it more vulnerable I think - trackside trees etc.
Usually when I'm on a trip I put my roof platform on and I'd like to have the option to mount the antenna more centrally on the platform and I'll probably have a spring mount which could also save it if it does hit anything.
I have the antenna cable routed up through a grommet in the tailgate with the cable running along under the top edge of the tailgate. What I'd like to do is add a connector in the cable so I could simply(?) disconnect from one location and connect to the other. I was thinking a mini uhf connector with a weatherproof boot / sleeve on it. See any problems with this? I know there are losses associated with any extra connection but the cable run head unit to antenna is pretty short - less than 3m. Would another connector type suit better?
Open to suggestions...

Thanks,
David

What about one of those connectors where you can loosen it and drop it down 90 degrees parallel to the ground for those not so high scenarios? I keep meaning to et a gutter mount with this option as posted here some months ago.

[Russrobe]

You mean something like this? Which can be folded up to whichever angle you like upto 90 degreeshttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/938.jpg

[gavinwibrow]

You mean something like this? Which can be folded up to whichever angle you like upto 90 degreeshttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/938.jpg


Exactly - many thanks. If anyone has done research and found any above the pack, for any of gutter, roo bar or roof rack would appreciate a comment. Cheers

[Russrobe]

Mine are BR600 Oricom Folding bracket. I just bought a 3mm plate and mounted it across 2 slats.

They're expensive at $95 each but extremely practical. Last weekend i used a 900mm long whip on that stainless spring, which we went under a thick branch off road that was about 200mm above the rack, spring did it's job and no damage done.

Never having to remove the spring is a bonus.

[Russrobe]

Only downside to this bracket is you need to remember to be cautious with multi story carparks. Still made it into Crown last weekend but needed to be in access height, tapped the height check bar at road height.

[rovers4]

Hi,
A plug/unplug type connector up there will have a few problems.

Any connector, unless a special weather resistant type, will suffer from the elements - dust and rain. The moisture will wick in around the cable sheath.

In trying to tuck it in under something to keep dry, that in itself will make it hard to reach. Even to install using crimpers - special ones at that, not your usual red/blue/yellow ones.

A pull-over heat-shrink tube type will not be good enough over time.

The PL259 type is a bit bulky and not really the best frequency wise.

A BNC is a better bet for that and smaller too. There are some boots available if you go hunting. Relies on a 90 degree twist.

The same inner, but with a screw thread securing thread outer is an "N" type. It, though is the same size as the PL259.


I think the better arrangement is to have two bases permanently fixed and two coaxes back into the cabin and a plug swap, or changeover switch (coaxial type), all nice and dry. But that will mean that the platform would stay in place.


Either way, if the antenna is not a ground-independent type, you will need to have a suitable grounded earth plane of sufficient area.


Rovers4

[l00kin4]

Thanks for all the input. That bracket or the Rhino one is exactly what I had in mind. Didn't know about that Oricom one.

rovers4 - many thanks for that info. It is what I suspected and exactly what I'm worried about. I'll go on a bit more of a connector hunt and report back on what I come up with.

David

[Evo2]

I would make the connection just inside the roof after you come though the rubber boot with FME connectors.
I used the below connectors to join the cable the rear quarter panel next to the tail light.

FME Male crimp Plug | Jaycar Electronics (https://www.jaycar.com.au/fme-male-crimp-plug/p/PP0710)
https://www.jaycar.com.au/fme-female-crimp-socket/p/PS0712

Brett
(https://www.jaycar.com.au/fme-female-crimp-socket/p/PS0712)