300 tdi cambelt/timing belt pulley revision

[lardy]

Hi,
Just a clarification my 110 (95) has a lip and slotted washer with a bolt on the bottom pulley adjacent to tensioner, much as was found on the 200tdi.
I have the full kit which offers the the later one no lip with allan key bolt, I cant remember was this a revision or do I need to get the pulley with lip from the supplier?
I do seem to remember being asked for the vin in the past, they did not this time, and thought they know best.
Thank you in advance.
Andy

[AK83]

I just did my D1 300 TDi:
What I got in my kit(which was the updated type): Tensioner pulley on a bracket with a 1/2 drive square cutout to tension it. On the bracket is a hole for the idler pulley which does slot into the hole.
Tensioner pulley uses an allen headed bolt(I think M8 allen key head), idler pulley uses a 15mm headed bolt.
The tensioner pulley had no lip to speak of, but the back of the idler pulley had a lip where it sat nicely into the hole in the tensioner pulley bracket. No washers.

Crank pulley had the raised lips to help guide the timing belt.

[lardy]

I just did my D1 300 TDi:
What I got in my kit(which was the updated type): Tensioner pulley on a bracket with a 1/2 drive square cutout to tension it. On the bracket is a hole for the idler pulley which does slot into the hole.
Tensioner pulley uses an allen headed bolt(I think M8 allen key head), idler pulley uses a 15mm headed bolt.
The tensioner pulley had no lip to speak of, but the back of the idler pulley had a lip where it sat nicely into the hole in the tensioner pulley bracket. No washers.

Crank pulley had the raised lips to help guide the timing belt.

Yes exactly what i have but the existing bottom pulley is the old type with the lipped pulley is the lipped type with the washer and bolt as opposed the later one supplied.
If it was not a poxy public holiday I could ring and ask...now I will have to confirm it with a chap I know in the uk that does landies because i want to get on with the thing.
There is reference to vin numbers somewhere.

[AK83]

Sorry for my mistake earlier.
The idler pulley uses a stud and nut, not 15mm bolt as I said.
I just checked my left over parts, and the nut on mine came out without the stud, and I didn't have a stud removing tool, so left the stud as is, and just used the new 15mm nut.


Yes exactly what i have but the existing bottom pulley is the old type with the lipped pulley is the lipped type with the washer and bolt as opposed the later one supplied.
....

Note entirely sure which pulley you're referring too here.

Bottom most pulley is a keyed pulley, that just slides onto the crankshaft. No washers no bolts.
Old style didn't have the belt guide lips, new one does. I assume that the timing belt cover keeps this crank pulley in place as it's not fixed.

It sounds like you have the old style tensioner pulley with the slotted washer and bolt.
From the images I've seen of the old style lipped tensioner pulley, it was the lip that could have caused the edge of the belt to get ground away.
Use the non lipped tensioner pulley.
As long as the crank pulley has the guiding lip it's fine.

So what you finally end up with should be:
Smooth edged no lip tensioner and idler pulleys(their both described as mid way pulleys)
And a lipped crank pulley (best described as the bottom pulley)

You shouldn't need any washers in the setup either.

[lardy]

Much to my surprise i have recieved the updated kit and indeed have the new crank pulley to put on.....cant wait to try and get that bar steward off....bet its a joy?
Just had a chat to Richard at Glencoyne Engineering in the U.K. VERY helpful chap as he was in also on a public holiday trying to finish a customers Land Rover off before the weekend.
I did not even look at the bloody crank pulley in the kit because on previous landies I have had the update done because they were newer or had just been previously updated.
After much confusion and trying to describe my dramas to someone 14000km away i twigged when he mentioned the lipped crank pulley looked in the box and there you go.....
So what did you end up doing ?

Yes, yes you are correct just read your post so the bottom pulley is easy to get off?

[AK83]

Harmonic balancer is hard to remove but crank pulley a little easier.

I have a wheel/bearing puller tool to do that.
I didn't want to use prise bars on the balancer just in case they damaged the edges of the pulley and then start to rip into the fanbelts(specifically the aircon belt)

Can't remember the size of the bolts needed for the harmonic balancer but used a couple that just fit and all ok.

Crank pulley(for timing belt) required a couple of long M5 bolts with the bearing puller. About 100mm long, but I think I got 80mm long bolts and they just fit/worked.
Once the crank pulley for the timing belt came out a bit, it got easier to remove tho.
Harmonic balancer needed the bearing puller all the way tho.

As it was my first time inside the 300 TDi and my first ever timing belt, I used blknight's tutorial for much of the info and there's a few video tutorial on youtube.

Do you have the timing pins for the job too?
I think someone mentioned that a 9.5mm drill bit can do the IP timing slot for ya. But no idea on what alternative you could use for the bellhousing crank holding pin.
I got my two piece kit off ebay for about $10 or so from the UK, but the crank holding locking pin seemed too short.
When screwed the crank bolt(27mm or 1 1/4" socket head) up a little the crank moved, which is what the crank holding timing pin is supposed to hold.
I freaked out a little worried that the timing was going to go to ****e, but I cranked it back so that the woodruff key was back at the 12 o'clock position and then worked much more carefully from there.

All ended up OK once back together again and engine fired up immediately at the end.

I also painted all the timing marks so that it was easier to see how everything lined up again.

[lardy]

Harmonic balancer is hard to remove but crank pulley a little easier.

I have a wheel/bearing puller tool to do that.
I didn't want to use prise bars on the balancer just in case they damaged the edges of the pulley and then start to rip into the fanbelts(specifically the aircon belt)

Can't remember the size of the bolts needed for the harmonic balancer but used a couple that just fit and all ok.

Crank pulley(for timing belt) required a couple of long M5 bolts with the bearing puller. About 100mm long, but I think I got 80mm long bolts and they just fit/worked.
Once the crank pulley for the timing belt came out a bit, it got easier to remove tho.
Harmonic balancer needed the bearing puller all the way tho.

As it was my first time inside the 300 TDi and my first ever timing belt, I used blknight's tutorial for much of the info and there's a few video tutorial on youtube.

Do you have the timing pins for the job too?
I think someone mentioned that a 9.5mm drill bit can do the IP timing slot for ya. But no idea on what alternative you could use for the bellhousing crank holding pin.
I got my two piece kit off ebay for about $10 or so from the UK, but the crank holding locking pin seemed too short.
When screwed the crank bolt(27mm or 1 1/4" socket head) up a little the crank moved, which is what the crank holding timing pin is supposed to hold.
I freaked out a little worried that the timing was going to go to ****e, but I cranked it back so that the woodruff key was back at the 12 o'clock position and then worked much more carefully from there.

All ended up OK once back together again and engine fired up immediately at the end.

I also painted all the timing marks so that it was easier to see how everything lined up again.

I have locking pins and a puller kit as I have done a fair bit of 300tdi stuff in the past so i got the balancer off, my thing being never having had to remove the timing belt pulley from the crank......
Yes that bar steward does move and freaks you out lol
The whole thing is supposed to lock up when the flywheel pin is in the groove, ok if it fit brother!
I too tend to use a white paint pen for timing indication.