Huge steering shake

[DoubleChevron]

Hi Guys,

slowly over the last week the old Rangey has developed steering shake. It started a week back after that horific sunday with all the winds (and I was towing a car trailer back from Warnanbool). I was back to 50km/h in places as the weather was so bad. The steering is also lighter than it should be. I figured running over branches on the road I must have taken out the steering damper.... However today ... It started getting the death wobbles really badly at 80km/h :eek:

I immediatly pulled off thinking a front wheel is about to fall off ... but no they were all tight. I checked all the ball joints over the christmas period and fitted a full suspension bush kit ... this exact one

Range Rover Classic Complete Suspension Bush Kit From GA to LA647644 FK0126 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Range-Rover-Classic-Complete-Suspension-Bush-Kit-From-GA-to-LA647644-FK0126-/221277623674?hash=item33852c957a:g:SFEAAOxytL9SJdF z)

So I could rule out issues with the steering joints, the bushes etc... The steering damper maybe dead, but that is obviously masking an underlying issue. Googling the forums pretty much screamed at me "set the front swivel pin pre-load" .... how hum.... So I crawl under it first to check nothing is loose and notice rubber squished out from the panhard bushes..... Surely not ?? :( Those bastards wouldn't even be 3000kms old .....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=122194&d=1492609838

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=122195&d=1492609838

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=122196&d=1492609838


Can you believe that **** .... Guess how little confidence I have in the entire cars suspension now... We are supposed to be going away in it for a couple of months soon ... and I don't trust the suspension bushes not to disitigrate while I'm towing 2.5tons around. I deliberatly searched out rubber bushes so it would drive and last like they should.

Gee's I suck at buying car parts. A few year back I purchased to sets of inner tie rod joints for my CX ... from different suppliers as when they were fitted, the bushed within them were so soft ... the car would steer all over the road. I gave up in the end and fitted 15year old slightly worn tierods from a wreck. How the hell are we supposed to keep cars on the roads, if the aftermarket parts are such **** quality.

seeya,
Shaen L.

[DieselLSE]

Hi DoubleChevron,
I had exactly the same issue a year or so back. The new bushes in the Panhard rod had chewed out after bugger all use. I gave up and purchased a genuine new Panhard rod from ULR as I couldn't determine that aftermarket bushes would be OK (I forget the cost but must have been about $280 or so). I also replaced all the tie-rod ends (genuine) and fitted a new damper (aftermarket) and went to great trouble to make sure everything was set up correctly. At the same time I overhauled the swivel pin housings and reset the pre-load.

I suppose if you take the time, trouble and money to set it all up correctly again, it will last another twenty years.

[Davo]

This would be why there are so many Superpro fans here. I've found that almost anything made of rubber for a car these days is suspect - though thankfully not tyres or fan belts, so far.

[Phil B]

If it makes you feel any better you are not alone!!
Had exactly the same recurring problem with my 4x4 Perentie
I have tried an different supplier. Will see how it goes.
If they fail I'll go down the SP route as well

[AK83]

This would be why there are so many Superpro fans here. I've found that almost anything made of rubber for a car these days is suspect - though thankfully not tyres or fan belts, so far.

Same here!

On my RRC(many years ago) I changed to Nolathane's polys, and never looked back.
Hundreds of thousands of klms later(at least a couple of them, probably more) and they were all still in good shape.

I'll never use rubber again either.

They will cost you a couple of arms and legs at the start, but that should be it for the life of the vehicle.

[Roverlord off road spares]

3000K that's not long!, they should have a warranty. Your link add they say Branded, that's the risk from UK buying, it probably was Britpart.

[Phil B]

What would you recommend for these bushes?

[loanrangie]

If you havent checked the swivels yet then i reckon they will be the cause of most of the vibrations/shakes.

[Phil B]

Agreed

[Vern]

I agree with Davo, that is why i will only install super pro bushes in any of my cars!

[Vern]

If you havent checked the swivels yet then i reckon they will be the cause of most of the vibrations/shakes.
Not to happen that quickly, did you see the pic of the chewed out panhard bushes? Put good bushes in and go for a drive

[Bluetoes]

Have you looked at wheel balancing u say you drove through a lot of branches on the road maybe you lost some wheel balance weights, just a thought

[DoubleChevron]

Thanks Guys,

I've just never been sold on poly ... the few times I've tried it on different cars ... it just wasn't right. It either didn't last, or the NVH went through the roof :) I just checked roverparts in ballarat. And interestingly Sean only lists genuine bushes ... There only $10bucks each. Guess what I'm going to try next :). I'm sure he'll know if his bushes are crap.

I moved the panhard rod from the other car to it (until I can get upto roverparts) and yes, the shake has instantly been fixed.... bloody weird, the steering is also heavier and back to it's normal self too.

seeya,
Shane L.

[Vern]

Yeah yeah, you tried poly, it was crap, heard it all before! BUT have you tried super pro?
Its not like normal poly. So much info on here its ridiculous! The only nay sayers, are those that tried 'poly' once! I think that was back in 1988!😊

[ozscott]

I had cheap poly bushes chop out in the same sort of ks as OP. The shake appeared suddenly and over 60kph was deadly.

Put in Superpro (And using their lube that comes with the bushes) and so far so good. About 1500klm so far and looking at them today they show nil signs of degradation. Cheers

[loanrangie]

Last time I had flogged pH bushes all I got was vague steering and no vibrations.

[Wraithe]

I'd still do a wheel balance, even tho it has settled with the change of rod... If the panhard was the cause in the first place, it may have created other issues now... Suspension faults have a tendency to play havoc on other parts connected to it...

As for Nolathane, if installed with the grease it comes with, I've experienced good life out of the bushes, in all sorts of situations...

Used in many a vehicle and a lot of heavy work and dusty, muddy and around the sand country... Always went well and lasted longer..

That don't mean I wont use original parts tho, some times its better getting original, but that depends if its original manufacturer... After market original is too hit n miss...

[DoubleChevron]

Thanks Guys,

I'll get to it. I need to get the car home first. The damn thing cut out while I was driving home tonight.... The first time I've ever had a Range Rover stop on me ... It just cruised to a halt like the ignition was cut. I tried both petrol and gas while it was coasting to a halt, but no go on either (so obviously ignition).

Anyway, I checked all of the wiring, bypassed the AEB ignition advance model ( not a cracker ). WHipped the dizzie cap off ... no cracks, everything looked fine. I got one of the kids to crank the motor while I had a coil lead off...and the spark looked ok ... Hmm, spark and fuel... that leaves only timing. So I whipped the cap back off and tried the advance weights ... it felt wrong, then I felt the "pop" of the springs falling off the advance weight ( you must be god damn kidding me, not this caper again). Did I touch the rotor button before though when I checked the dizzie cap ?? I can't remember so this might be unrelated. This is going to take time now, so I ring the boss women to come and collect us... and whip the dizzie out to take with me.

What a bastard of a design this is. At home in the shed, I pull the top off and reconnect the springs. It snaps back nicely and seems to be working perfectly.....

So back in the dark and rain again in the boss womens car dizzie in hand. Spend ages trying to find compression stroke on number 1.... I think I've got it so I drop the dizzie in ... then back out a couple of times trying to get the rotor button pointing at No1.... I get it right, and give the dizzie button a quick flick to make sure the it's still right ................. and it flops around everywhere ... the springs are off again .................... AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAArrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrhhhhhhhhhhh hhhhhhhhhhhhhh.... I did this last god damn time. I must have lifted the bloody thing up by the rotor button ( again ) like I did a couple of years back and pull the springs back off.....

So I whip the dizzie off ... go sit in the back of the boot of the rangie so I won't loose anything, then under torch light pull it down ... not only the springs are off, the centripetal weights are off too ??

So I re-assembled ... and find the springs 2mm to long ... so they fall off (obviously it is assembled incorrectly).... I then spend 40 bloody minutes trying to assemble it .... NOT getting the damn thing right so the springs would fit ... my mouth was aching from holding the torch in it ... Talk about getting frustrated..... Then I dropped a spring. It had to be there ... right on the carpet ... under my nose.... 10minutes of searching under torchlight makes me realise, yes one of the bloody springs is gone ( where damn it ... where ?? ).

I'd pretty much had a gut full, so I took the dizzie back to the boss womens car and sat on the front seat under the interior light and tried to get it at least assembled until I could chase up an extra spring. In the end, sadly no land rover designer had walked past so I could return the damn distributor to land rover.... via suppository... So I figured I'd go home and try to find a diagram of how the lump of excrement assembles. Hey, on the positive side I foudn the missing spring about then... attached to the magnetic pickup (the pickup had "caught" it as it fell)

Well I'm off to search for diagram of how the damn thing goes back together ................ Unless of course a land rover designer wanders past... In which case I will happily return the dizzie to it's designer

seeya,
Shane L.

[JDNSW]

Oh dear!

[bee utey]

Fix it properly.

Lucas V8 dissy nylon clip repair method. (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/116123-lucas-v8-dissy-nylon-clip-repair-method.html)

[DoubleChevron]

Thanks Guys,

I'll do the fix linked above ... When I get the damn car home. As it is, I still can't see how on earth that dizzie goes back together. I pulled the dizzie of the other car in desperation...

[122229122230122231'


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=122231&d=1492739813

simple and obvious... and bloody different. even thought he dizzie is the same model number.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=122229&d=1492739813

this one is setup like this:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=122230&d=1492739813

no matter which way I put the weights in the bottom, or pivot on top... the springs are to long.

does anyone have a picture of how this mongrel goes back together. I'm going to put the other dizzie into it to try and get it home.

seeya,
Shane L.

[JDNSW]

Getting back to the original issue....

In almost all cases, vibration such as this does not have a single cause. You get a series of minor defects, swivel preload, tyre balance, tie rod ends, panhard bushes, until the free play (TREs, panhard bushes, radius arm bushes) is sufficient for the vibration to be noticeable, plus not enough damping to stop it (swivels, damper, steering geometry), plus something to start it (wheel balance, road bumps).

Often, fix one and the vibration goes away, only to return in a short while, and perhaps not be fixed by the same thing.

In this case, perhaps the extreme failure of the panhard bushes may be a result of the vibration, after their being a bit soft allowed it.

I would carefully check everything else as well!

[bee utey]

You've got your weights on the wrong pins. I don't have a dismantled one handy but can see clearly enough in mine that you need to move the weights to the other posts.

[DoubleChevron]

You've got your weights on the wrong pins. I don't have a dismantled one handy but can see clearly enough in mine that you need to move the weights to the other posts.

Yeah, I've tried every variation I can think of. I just took the other dizzie over to the car ... and found I had no rotor button there... there both sitting here at home beside the computer..... Do you get the feeling I'm driving myself insane .... For no good reason ... So I still don't even know if this is the issue.... Or self inflicted damage.

Oh, the other pair of posts... I don't think the holes in the weights are big enough to go on them. THey are stops of some sort.

seeya,
Shane L.

[bee utey]

Yeah, I've tried every variation I can think of. I just took the other dizzie over to the car ... and found I had no rotor button there... there both sitting here at home beside the computer..... Do you get the feeling I'm driving myself insane .... For no good reason ... So I still don't even know if this is the issue.... Or self inflicted damage.

Oh, the other pair of posts... I don't think the holes in the weights are big enough to go on them. THey are stops of some sort.

seeya,
Shane L.

I don't really care if you've tried and failed, the weights go on the short pins and the long pins are for the springs. I even managed to take a picture through a small gap of the pickup plate.

122239

[DoubleChevron]

I don't really care if you've tried and failed, the weights go on the short pins and the long pins are for the springs. I even managed to take a picture through a small gap of the pickup plate.

122239


Thanks,, I tried to get those weights on those pins several times last night... and the pins felt to be about 1/2mm to big for the holes. I just tried it now and they slid straight on ..... See what I mean, driving myself insane for no good reason :(

The spring are the perfect length now. I'll go do you fix to stop this happening again.

seeya,
Shane L.

[DoubleChevron]

For the first time ever .... I thought "bugger this" and one of my cars didn't come home under it's own power. You see we are going away for a couple of months this year in the range rover ... And my wife insisted I we get RACV coverage. So I thought "bugger it, that cost us $300+ bucks" ... So an hour later the rangie is sitting home in the drive.

I pulled it in the shed last night and just went out this morning ( in daylight, without rain ... and without cars whizzing by)..... The very first thing I notice. I turn the ignition on and there is no "thump" of all the gas solenoids activating ...... Oh...... guess to the moron is .... Ok. what about petrol pump .... cycle the key on and off, and no, I can't hear the pump running for a few seconds like it should (I did't notice this on the side of the road with the noise of traffic).

I've now chased the wiring for the switch down to the injection computer and out under the bonnet, across to the converter, then down underneath to the back. The whole thing must source the power from the back somewhere (how bizarre, why wouldn't you grab some nice 12volt source from under the bonnet). I can't think of any 12volt power source at the back of the car grunty enough to run this stuff. I guess I"ll keep following wiring until I find it hooking into the power .... somewhere.... I hope I don't have to drop the damn tanks to see what and where the wiring goes, 'cos I just filled the bloody things. They'll weigh a ton!

seeya,
Shane L.

[DoubleChevron]

Gee's the wiriing for the gas on this car is ****house.... somehow it's lasted probably 15 years though. It looks like it's all powered by the fuel pump at the back. I just went searching for the fuel pump fuse (found under the drivers seat if you ever want to search for this). She instantly fired to life on petrol ... but won't run on lpg. I'd say we have a short in the dodgy gas wiring somewhere... or possibly a gas solenoid that is shorted. It's not enough to blow the fuse instantly... but it's enough to take the circuit out by the looks of it. This is all fun right ?? I'll spend a few hours now fixing all the gas wiring and mounting it all down firmly.

seeya,
shane L.

[bee utey]

Some gas solenoid coils contain a clamping diode to suppress voltage spikes. Their failure mode is to short circuit. Hit them with enough current (straight to the battery) and the diode blows up and leaves the coil operational. You can add an external diode if it makes you feel good but it'll probably work just fine without it.

[DoubleChevron]

Some gas solenoid coils contain a clamping diode to suppress voltage spikes. Their failure mode is to short circuit. Hit them with enough current (straight to the battery) and the diode blows up and leaves the coil operational. You can add an external diode if it makes you feel good but it'll probably work just fine without it.

Wow... How on earth do you know all this stuff :) Thanks!

There is two lock off solenoids at the converter ... one on the sill. They all measured about the same resistance. There will probably be one at each tank as well, but I can't isolate the wiring to check them without dropping the tanks. So I have approached this from a different angle.

I removed the 5amps fuse and put my multi-meter across it ... running on petrol we have 5.3amps ............... bugger it the PETROL fuel pump must be faulty. It should obviously draw far less than the 5 amps the fuse is rated at. If I flick it onto lpg, the draw is 8.6amps. That is five seperate lock off valves if there is one on each tank being powered. So they are certainly fine ( that is far less than 1 amp per solenoid on them ).

So I've found lots of dodgy wiring ... and none of it is the problem. The problem must be the fuel pump (that strangely does work fine).

seeya,
Shane L.

[bee utey]

Often the first sign of a worn fuel pump is a failure of an inline connector due to the higher current draw. Roughness in the pump cell can double its power draw without losing pressure. I lose track of how many D1's and late RRC's I've had to cut out bad connectors by the rear muffler and replace the pump housing and connector cable.

Now if you want to isolate the LPG from the fuel pump circuit (very wise) you'll need a solid ignition source. The plain white fat wire off the ignition switch is my source of choice. Fit a 10A line fuse. You'll then need a safety-cut-out wired between the switch and the gas valves. Example:

Brand New Peel LPG Safety Switch | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Brand-New-Peel-LPG-Safety-Switch-/182163703666?hash=item2a69cd8772:g:br4AAOSwE6VXJe5 8)

This will mean that you can run the car on LPG even if the fuel pump blows the fuse. Cheap LPG installers do the fuel pump supply because it's $25 off the cost for them.

[DoubleChevron]

Often the first sign of a worn fuel pump is a failure of an inline connector due to the higher current draw. Roughness in the pump cell can double its power draw without losing pressure. I lose track of how many D1's and late RRC's I've had to cut out bad connectors by the rear muffler and replace the pump housing and connector cable.

Now if you want to isolate the LPG from the fuel pump circuit (very wise) you'll need a solid ignition source. The plain white fat wire off the ignition switch is my source of choice. Fit a 10A line fuse. You'll then need a safety-cut-out wired between the switch and the gas valves. Example:

Brand New Peel LPG Safety Switch | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Brand-New-Peel-LPG-Safety-Switch-/182163703666?hash=item2a69cd8772:g:br4AAOSwE6VXJe5 8)

This will mean that you can run the car on LPG even if the fuel pump blows the fuse. Cheap LPG installers do the fuel pump supply because it's $25 off the cost for them.

Thanks... The issue has come to a head because about a month ago I exhanged the fuel pump from the other car into it(as the fuel pump in it was so weak it the car wouldn't really do much other than start on petrol. you certainly couldn't use more than 1/10th throttle without it leaning out and dying). This fuel pump provides plenty of fuel (ie: it absolutely flies on petrol now).... But over the last month has melted the fuse to the point where it died the other night. I'd say the old pump pulled no current.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/122319d1492856174-huge-steering-shake-p1190214.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/122320d1492856174-huge-steering-shake-p1190215.jpg



Look how absolutely ****house the wiring is .... The voltage drop would have to be horrendous even when it's new and perfect. I wish I'd read your suggestions above first.... I've already run some power wires under the car (I needed to run the anderson plug wiring under the car ... So I ran another wire with it down to the back). I'm in the process of mounting a relay down the back to drive the fuel pump and gas solenoids, I just need to figure out which one of the 3 wires above is the live one (the other two will be the earth and fuel gauge I'm guessing).

I didn't think of the gas switch bit. I figured I needed to keep the power source the pump, as it will shut off the gas if the engine ever stops (as the cars computers will automatically shut the pump off).

I wonder how many amps a brand new pump pulls... It'll be annoying to fit a new one .... and find it pulls 5.3 amps ..... :)

seeya,
Shane L.

[Mercguy]

There is a special loathing I have in reserve for Land Rover wiring and connectors.

I think it was literally the second thing I did after purchasing - renewing all of the dodgy wiring connections from P.O.'s and the POD himself. The under-dash and engine bay was a particularly interesting 2 weeks of work. ... yes, 2 weeks.

It still continues - as I encounter each bit of dodgy, it get's a complete circuit evaluation and replacement of all suspect components.

While most everything has been replaced with osh-kosh-its-bosch I don't particularly feel that the poms have any real skill when it comes to electrics, or schematics. For wiring harness skills, you need to look to proper german engineered vehicles. (not the opel kadett)

Not sure that it's worthwhile in the short-term, but in the longrun I'll be acutely aware of all the potential issues.

Besides, it gives me an excuse to pull things apart, at the very least clean / overhaul them and put them back in with a new lease of life. Drivers window is probably next on the list. it's getting slow on the uplift.

[Meccles]

Or buy a Petronix dizzy brand new US$280 Why bother with such a hassle life's too short BUICK 3.5L/215 PerTronix Distributors - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing (https://m.summitracing.com/search/brand/pertronix/make/buick/engine-size/3-5l-215/part-type/distributors?N=400428%2b4294950350%2b4294939730%2b 4294944559)

[DoubleChevron]

Or buy a Petronix dizzy brand new US$280 Why bother with such a hassle life's too short BUICK 3.5L/215 PerTronix Distributors - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing (https://m.summitracing.com/search/brand/pertronix/make/buick/engine-size/3-5l-215/part-type/distributors?N=400428%2b4294950350%2b4294939730%2b 4294944559)

Gee that is cheap for a new dizzie! There is nothing wrong with the dizzie in the car ... I just did bee uteys fix ... so if I'm stupid enogh to touch the rotor button agaiin, it doesn't fall apart :)

[Meccles]

Good luck! We can tolerate the rain/hassle etc but eventually SWMBO will object. So price of everything has to reflect the alternative and I'm not talking cars[emoji106][emoji3]

[DoubleChevron]

There is a special loathing I have in reserve for Land Rover wiring and connectors.

I think it was literally the second thing I did after purchasing - renewing all of the dodgy wiring connections from P.O.'s and the POD himself. The under-dash and engine bay was a particularly interesting 2 weeks of work. ... yes, 2 weeks.

It still continues - as I encounter each bit of dodgy, it get's a complete circuit evaluation and replacement of all suspect components.

While most everything has been replaced with osh-kosh-its-bosch I don't particularly feel that the poms have any real skill when it comes to electrics, or schematics. For wiring harness skills, you need to look to proper german engineered vehicles. (not the opel kadett)

Not sure that it's worthwhile in the short-term, but in the longrun I'll be acutely aware of all the potential issues.

Besides, it gives me an excuse to pull things apart, at the very least clean / overhaul them and put them back in with a new lease of life. Drivers window is probably next on the list. it's getting slow on the uplift.

Mines looking worse the more work I do to it ... as everytime time you add wiring for relays you end up with more of a rats nest of wires. I've added a relay in the boot behind the rear light to power the pump.... gee's you should hear the fuel pump now! It must have only had 8volts at it before. Beside the battery looks particually messy. We have the 3 headlight relays, the 3 fan relays, the battery isolater ... and the fuse box I've added (to protect the fuel pump and headlight circuits ). Also we have the heavy brake controller and anderson plug wiring. I probably should make a "housing" to store all the wires in so it looks tidy. At least I know it's 100% functional and safe though!

seyea,
Shane L.

[Meccles]

I'm looking forward to wiring in mine you figure $500 for complete 26 circuit loom from painless performance will post pics when complete. Only thing original are indicators wiper/light switches and they have been modified [emoji3]

[DoubleChevron]

I'm looking forward to wiring in mine you figure $500 for complete 26 circuit loom from painless performance will post pics when complete. Only thing original are indicators wiper/light switches and they have been modified [emoji3]

But, but .. the light and wiper switches cause endless grief. I purchased a new indicator switch for my car ... and it's worse than the one it replaced (ie: not cancelling, low beam dropping out ... and horn barely working). The one I removed was better.

seeya
shane L.

[DoubleChevron]

Good luck! We can tolerate the rain/hassle etc but eventually SWMBO will object. So price of everything has to reflect the alternative and I'm not talking cars[emoji106][emoji3]

Boss women is used to it ..... This car is the most modern car I've ever owned. My "sensible" daily driver for the last 15 years has been a 1985 Citroen CX GTi Turbo that my father imported from the UK back in 1996 ( among all the other crappy old Citroens I own).

What you do need in any household though is a modern plastic boring lump of merde for the wife to drive. It saves endless problems :) (been there and done that!).

seeya,
Shane L.

[Meccles]

Yeah- mind you have to admit our friends new 3 series Mazda is nice. And their 150 Prado with 200thousand ks on it stlll drives nice not a squeak not a rattle perfect a/c etc. all jokes aside both bloody good means of transport[emoji15]

[DoubleChevron]

Yeah- mind you have to admit our friends new 3 series Mazda is nice. And their 150 Prado with 200thousand ks on it stlll drives nice not a squeak not a rattle perfect a/c etc. all jokes aside both bloody good means of transport[emoji15]

UUUURrrrrrrhhhhhh..... I'd rather push one of my ****ty cars than drive something like that (infact I often do [bigwhistle] ). I've just noticed today .... The car always cranked for about 5 seconds before starting on petrol. You can now hear the pump howl ... then slow down before it cycles off ( when you first turn the key). Then the motor starts instantly on petrol without cranking. It's now starting on gas properly too (I'm guessing there was too much voltage drop while cranking for the gas solenoids to open properly).

I'm very thankful I've found this problem now ... and not on the side of the road ... with the caravan on.

seeya,
Shane L.

[DoubleChevron]

You have no idea the bloody run-around this car has given me for the last few weeks. I couldn't even drive it across town and back without it starting to miss and carry on..... Check this out. I have spent bloody HOURs tearing my hair out ... I've tried different dizzie (with different pickup and ignition module), different dizzie caps and rotor buttons.... spent ages tracing through the wiring (which is all ****house, but seems ok). I was sidetracked by finding the air gap on the dizzie pickups was too large .... side tracked by the fuel tank not venting so causing separate lean running issues..... I pulled the intake side down and check/re-sealed everything. But the damn car continued to drive me absolutely insane. I couldn't rely on it to even do the school run without playing up.


In desperation I thought I'll pull the AEB ignition advance unit out ... and see if the symptoms change. It wouldn't be this as this would either work or not work ... not this intermittent bull****.

It looks nicely sealed up with big rubber boots protecting the wiring and dip switch covers........... However I noticed the bottom appeared to just "snap out" to open it up ...... Surely that's not moisture proof ... ??

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=123382&d=1494896606

Simple electronics .... no obvious liek bulging caps etc.... (it is only a year or so old).



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=123383&d=1494896606


That is RUST ... not burnt.... The damn thing isn't sealed .. so can fill with moisture if your not careful enough to mount it somwhere it'll never get damp (where would that be under the bonnet of a 4wd ? ... that gets used as it should ? ).... Anyway, it would run even though it had moisture in it against the circuit board, but what would cause it to do really weird things,.... is the thing is it's own little hot house. Once we had heat under the bonnet, water would condense over everything and bam ... we have lots of running problems.

I haven't been for a good drive yet to verify, but I reckon I've finally found the problem.

seeya,
shane L.

[Mercguy]

You have no idea the bloody run-around this car has given me for the last few weeks. I couldn't even drive it across town and back without it starting to miss and carry on..... Check this out. I have spent bloody HOURs tearing my hair out ... I've tried different dizzie (with different pickup and ignition module), different dizzie caps and rotor buttons.... spent ages tracing through the wiring (which is all ****house, but seems ok). I was sidetracked by finding the air gap on the dizzie pickups was too large .... side tracked by the fuel tank not venting so causing separate lean running issues..... I pulled the intake side down and check/re-sealed everything. But the damn car continued to drive me absolutely insane. I couldn't rely on it to even do the school run without playing up.


In desperation I thought I'll pull the AEB ignition advance unit out ... and see if the symptoms change. It wouldn't be this as this would either work or not work ... not this intermittent bull****.

It looks nicely sealed up with big rubber boots protecting the wiring and dip switch covers........... However I noticed the bottom appeared to just "snap out" to open it up ...... Surely that's not moisture proof ... ??

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/123382d1494896606-huge-steering-shake-aeb2.jpg

Simple electronics .... no obvious liek bulging caps etc.... (it is only a year or so old).



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/123383d1494896606-huge-steering-shake-aeb1.jpg


That is RUST ... not burnt.... The damn thing isn't sealed .. so can fill with moisture if your not careful enough to mount it somwhere it'll never get damp (where would that be under the bonnet of a 4wd ? ... that gets used as it should ? ).... Anyway, it would run even though it had moisture in it against the circuit board, but what would cause it to do really weird things,.... is the thing is it's own little hot house. Once we had heat under the bonnet, water would condense over everything and bam ... we have lots of running problems.

I haven't been for a good drive yet to verify, but I reckon I've finally found the problem.

seeya,
shane L.

Toss it, go back to the Bosch module remote mounted dizzy solution. I put a huge CPU heatsink on the module and fan. Works a treat. Mind you, I did overhaul the dizzy and did the Bee Utey shaft mod, as well as played with the advance weights, springs and shimmed the shaft for play. No ignition problems since. no hesitation, no surging... but I don't run gas either. just set it to 12deg static and vroom (as much as a 350,000km 3.9 can go 'vroom')

;)

I thought about those units and have a couple of the jaycar versions still in the packet, after reading through the literature I decided the Bosch module was a better option... because it was SEALED .. :o

Thanks for convincing me I was right. :D

[DoubleChevron]

Toss it, go back to the Bosch module remote mounted dizzy solution. I put a huge CPU heatsink on the module and fan. Works a treat. Mind you, I did overhaul the dizzy and did the Bee Utey shaft mod, as well as played with the advance weights, springs and shimmed the shaft for play. No ignition problems since. no hesitation, no surging... but I don't run gas either. just set it to 12deg static and vroom (as much as a 350,000km 3.9 can go 'vroom')

;)

I thought about those units and have a couple of the jaycar versions still in the packet, after reading through the literature I decided the Bosch module was a better option... because it was SEALED .. :o

Thanks for convincing me I was right. :D

That's an ignition advance module for LPG running. It advance the ignition by a set amount over the petrols settings. IT does work extremely well ...... when not full of water ..... grrrrr.....

[Mercguy]

Shane, sounds like you need to clean the board, check it for damage and when it's working and dry, spray it with conformal coating / epoxy dip.

[DoubleChevron]

Shane, sounds like you need to clean the board, check it for damage and when it's working and dry, spray it with conformal coating / epoxy dip.

Yeah, I've dried it out and brushed it with a soft stainless steel brush where it's rusty. You know, some of the pins have rusted away, but only one track I can find on the whole board doesn't have continuity ... and it goes nowhere (ie: it runs to a blank spot where a chip isn't .... that chip must be used on a different model advance unit). It seems to be working now, but I'll know over the next few days.

seeya,
Shane L.

[Bradtot]

Hmmm I have one of those units after you got yours.
looks like I will check mine out on the weekend.
that CCT board is repairable.
but do spray some sort of barrier on the board..epoxy or silicon...
as an electronics tech most of my life I have seen a lot worse on video cameras and cash registers that I was able to repair...
Brad[bigsmile1]