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itsme_wrk
22nd April 2017, 04:24 PM
Hi Guys

I have read all the other TD5 Won't start and Disco won't start chains but it seems this issue is a little beyond.

Vehicle was running sweet, drove it into the driveway last week, went to move it into the garage to do the panhard bushes later that afternoon and she wouldn't start, eventually feathering the throttle, got it to start _real_ rough, hawkeye in cylinder roughness went from -20 to +20 across the 5 with cylinder 3 being close to 0

Its not using coolant, no water in oil, no oil in water, no bubbles in coolant tank.

No oil in the harness but did clean it out anyway with contact cleaner, still not starting without lots of throttle attention but was a little smoother when it started with only cylinder 3 way out of roughness.

Engine has 320k on the clock and had never had injector seals so ordered the seals and washers, done them Friday, everything was perfectly clean before going back together, injectors 4 & 5 had build up on them, the rest were clean, washer 1 had seen better days around the outside, base of the injector holes in the head had carbon marks and plenty of floaters in there, cleaned it all out with vacuum, air and a cloth.

Turned the engine over with the fuel pump disconnected to get rid of all the diesel in the pots until there was no more mist.

Injectors cleaned with a bit of brake cleaner and washers and o-rings replaced and injectors re-seated carefully, bolts done up to 24ft/lbs, each lobe lifted until it was at its peak (just before it dropped off the back), the plunger wound down to the bottom of the injector, back 1 full turn, nut locked off.

Loom back on, primed (up to 8 straight primes) and it turns over perfectly but doesn't fire.

No fault codes are logged that I can see with a Hawkeye, it is running the TRS modified non-NNN ECU

Battery voltage is good.

The valve in the fuel filter assembly with the filter on it was pretty clogged, replaced that and the crank angle sensor this morning, engine cranks happily, no knocking, but won't fire.

Plenty of fuel at the FPR (removed the hose into a bucket to test) and during the primes could hear fuel circulating

Ripped the injectors out just to check I didnt have a bad seating washer / o-ring, no diesel in the rocker cover, heaps of diesel in the cylinders, injector tips soaked.

Dried, reassembled, same thing, zero faults logged, no fuses blown, power to the glow plugs (granted the glow plug indicator doesn't come on at key up time, but i can test it with Hawkeye and illuminate, tested 12v to the plugs themselves when triggering the relay)

I wouldn't be overly stressed but this is the only car with a child restraint in it and I have the little one this weekend and stuck in the middle of nowhere, and I can't see where I have missed anything, any advice anyone??? Please??

Presently out at Stanthorpe in SE Qld so a long way from parts and being Anzac day Tuesday, express post is going to be Wednesday :(

Rob

Disco Muppet
22nd April 2017, 04:45 PM
They can be a right ***** to start once they've been stopped. Are you doing the fuel bleed trick with the throttle pedal and the MIL?

itsme_wrk
22nd April 2017, 04:57 PM
Yep, key off 15 seconds, key on, 5 pumps of the throttle until MIL illuminates and flashes and runs through a 3 minute prime...

Tank is full of diesel, has done 75km since filled, thought may have been the diesel so added a shock to it just for giggles, took the 300tdi defender to the same joint to fill up and added same shock just to keep equals on the fuel.

About 2am this morning with the little one being dropped off at 9am, I wanted to prove compression, rag soaked in petrol in the air intake, cranked, bloody thing went and idled perfectly, smoothest its ever been just for a second so yanked the rag and put it to bed.

I dunno guys, i'm completely lost...there is continuity across the injector harness on both ground and signal wires, they are coded correctly and I can fire each one individually from the hawkeye

Pippin
23rd April 2017, 07:47 AM
They can be a right ***** to start once they've been stopped. Are you doing the fuel bleed trick with the throttle pedal and the MIL?
Correct! It won't fire up until all the air in the injectors clears and the bleed sequence does not remove that.
Nick

itsme_wrk
23rd April 2017, 09:46 AM
Correct! It won't fire up until all the air in the injectors clears and the bleed sequence does not remove that.
Nick

So just persevere with the purge procedure or is there another way or getting the air out?

Rob

Pippin
23rd April 2017, 10:45 AM
Hi Rob,

I replaced injector seals for someone the other day and it took a long time to fire up after the purge sequence. So just keep trying re my pm.

Nick

trout1105
23rd April 2017, 11:29 AM
Just a thought But have you checked the fuel line from the tank for fractures, pinholes or loose joints that may be sucking air into the system?

itsme_wrk
23rd April 2017, 01:26 PM
Hi Trout,

Only place that could remotely possibly be would be around the FPR where the main line quick connects to the spigot on the FPR

Just seems a bit moist at the front of the connector.

Will dry it out with air and check again, when I replaced my FPR it was ****ing out everywhere and still starting tho so would expect it takes more air than this?

Rob

PhilipA
23rd April 2017, 03:35 PM
If the high pressure pipe has a pinhole you will know about it. It won't be a dribble but a gusher.

Regards Philip A

RobMichelle
23rd April 2017, 06:33 PM
Hi Rob
How long did engine run after you did petrol rag, I would think that the air would purge if it was running.
Did bit stop running by itselfbor you turned it off by key?:
Cheers
Rob

itsme_wrk
23rd April 2017, 08:16 PM
Hi Rob

It stops straight away, the second the juice is gone

Battery was on charge overnight, is sitting at 13.6v taken off charger and cranked for 30 seconds, left for an hour, cranked for 30 seconds

Can hear diesel or oil gurgling around the head after a serious cranking but that's to be expected, battery is back on the charger

Rob

itsme_wrk
23rd April 2017, 10:29 PM
Update:

Not sure why, not sure how, wandered to said vehicle after bubs was asleep and decided to reset the timing based on the newly discovered cam shaft marks.

IT...RAN...IT IS ALIVE!

It ran smoother than ever before.

I don't know why a pifteenth could make so much difference between running and not running but it is alive!

Thank you so much for everyone's help, apologies for the panic, in this process of this found C0573-4 had also been damaged under the engine compartment fuse panel and fixed but it still wouldn't start after that.

Has anyone been successful in tightening the crank shaft bolt up with the crank locked with the locking pin alone or does this really require a tool made up to grip the pulley?

Rob

Disco Muppet
24th April 2017, 11:23 AM
I know people on here have done it with the locking pin but I prefer to make the tool. Make sure it's strong, my first one failed and slipped under load, snapping the pulled tab off the balancer. Same tool but double the thickness and hasn't budged