Project Log: DIY Rear Drawers and Fridge Slide

[ScotchRocks]

Hello Discoverers,

I am embarking on a self build for rear drawers and fridge alcove/slide and am going to post updates here if you are interested. Goal is to save a bit of money and get exactly what I want, rather than trying to make something prefabbed fit. Also to keep the weight down by using mostly aluminium (weight is the enemy!).

Without further ado:

Materials (to date):
$145.37 30 m (5 x 6m lengths) 25 mm square tube
$31.63 6 m lipped (flanged) 25 mm square tube
$19.01 24 x 3 way 'Y' connectors (qubelok or cube lock or handyman or whatever brandname you want. Mine came from Ullrich.)
$2.73 4 x 2 way corner connectors
$7.92 8 x 4 way 'Y' connectors
$209.28 3 x Pairs 700 mm 125 kg locking drawer slides
$415.94 Total so far

Tools Used (to date):
Tape measure
Sharpie
Cutoff Saw
File
Dead blow hammer (Best tool EVER! Or you can use a less awesome rubber mallet)

Process:
1. Make a Plan.
122476
2. Let your plan marinate. Are the drawers deep enough for the things you will put in them? How snug will your fridge fit? Where does the fridge power cable go? What about when you plug in the mains the night before a trip to cool it? how about future expansion when the rear seats come out? Permanently fixed or easily removable? How are you attaching the dooverlackey to the thingamajig? Change numbers. Is it symmetrical and aesthetically pleasing? Can you use that tray of 5/16 SS bolts you found in Grandads shed?
3. Let there be frame! Measure, Measure, Cut, File Burrs, Hammer. Repeat.
122477
Mine is 995 wide (460 space each side of the central post), 675 tall and 700 deep. Drawer spaces are 460 x 300. Fits with the back seats still in and will be tie-downable to existing points.
Back to step 1 for fitting drawer slides. Will be wooden mounting blocks or channel or angle. Not sure yet. Marinating. May clad in Aluminium sheet or 6 mm Marine Ply, undecided.

More to come!

[jasonharrison]

Looks good! I'll definitely be following your progress.

I'm still in the planning stage of mine.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/147.jpg

[jwb]

I used the same approach years ago in our D2 ahead of our first Simpson Desert trip - keep the weight down, I couldn't believe the weight of steel systems and even plywood.

It was a bit of a rush job. I bolted the fridge slide to a ply base that covered the D2 cargo area then built the alloy frame over that and had a space next to the fridge for a set of plastic drawers from the hardware store. Intended to be a temporary measure and has lasted 10 years. Everything is fixed to the floor anchor points and the cargo barrier with zip ties. No squeaking, shaking etc and minimalist approach.

It's done Simpson, Hay River, multiple High Country trips etc without a problem.

[AdamHunter]

Much the same setup I built for back of last Pajero. A suggestion, take out the cross pieces on the floor and mount the whole thing on a ply base, that will give you more drawer height. I didn't have drawers but roller boxes .. I build the shelf height to suit. You will need to put some panels on it to stiffen it up, otherwise they can be a bit Flexi especially when loaded up and stuff falls behind the fridge.
I think I might go this way myself for the disco, that's the last job that is waiting on the cargo barrier to go in and build upto that.
Keep the updates coming !

[Mclaren00]

Mate I'm about to do all of this aswell so your guides are spot on for me except I think I'm going to do a ply base and make a box with the tube for the fridge and leave the other side open

[Mclaren00]

Where did you get the slides? And how do you mount to them? Ply base?

[ScotchRocks]

Where did you get the slides? And how do you mount to them? Ply base?

Slides from indrub, do a google. They had a deal going on 2 pairs of slides the other day, not sure if it's still on.

Going to mount them with some unequal angle I think. Countersunk screws on the drawer slides and rivets in the frame I think. Then aluminium or ply cladding for rigidity, similar to an airframe. The slides are heavy and will help stiffen up the frame too. No base. Anchor to tiedowns with overkill turnbuckles.

Stay tuned!

[ScotchRocks]

Materials cost (to date):
$145.37 30 m (5 x 6m lengths) 25 mm square tube
$31.63 6 m lipped (flanged) 25 mm square tube
$19.01 24 x 3 way 'Y' connectors (qubelok or cube lock or handyman or whatever brandname you want. Mine came from Ullrich.)
$2.73 4 x 2 way corner connectors
$7.92 8 x 4 way 'Y' connectors
$209.28 3 x Pairs 700 mm 125 kg locking drawer slides
$62.50 1800 x 1200 x 2 mm aluminium sheet remaining from my rear door card project (1200 x 2400 sheet was $79.77)
$19.24 100 x trumpet head metal screws (25 mm)
$6.05 25 x M6 x 40mm bolts and nuts
$3.90 M6 washer pack
$507.63 Total so far

Consumables:
$16.93 Pack of 5 sheet metal jigsaw blades

Tools Used (to date):
Tape measure
Sharpie
Cutoff Saw
File
Dead blow hammer (Best tool EVER! Or you can use a less awesome rubber mallet)
Jigsaw
F clamps
Drill and bits
Some wood offcuts for clamping and drilling
Straight edge

Process Update:
4. After making the skeleton it took a few days of thinking to settle on a plan for mounting the slides. I settled on this:
122683122684
Each slide will be attached to an aluminium mounting plate that bolts onto the skeleton and a reinforcing square section. Plates pair up in the centre and pair with the external cladding on the sides. I decided on this setup because if (heaven forbid) my frame is a little out of true and the slides are not parallel after mounting, I can tidy them up with some extra washers or shims behind the mounting plates.
5. I cut two 700 x 675 x 2 mm aluminium panels to clad the sides of the skeleton.
6. Cut out the seven mounting plates I will need.
122685
7. Cut the five 650 mm reinforcing tubes
8. Drilled and bolted the first pair of plates together with their reinforcing tube. Super happy with how it turned out.
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9. The slides will fit nicely.
122687
10. ...and the side panels to be affixed.
122688

I should get all the slides in and squared up this week, then and only then will I take measurements for the drawers. Still debating wether to make the drawers sit inside the line of the slides (deeper drawers) or on top with a mounting bracket (slightly wider drawers).

[DiscoMick]

Conceptual question: do you actually need slides?
I decided not, which saved a lot of money and weight.
Just a thought...

[trout1105]

I did a breakdown of all the materials that I would need to build a 2 drawer system with a fridge slide and it worked out to be over $1200 and I think that I would have spent a bit more than that eventually ( the drop down slide was about $700 on its own) .
I went with the Titan drawers in the end at $588 delivered including a fridge slide.
I haven't received the drawers yet so I cannot say if they are any good or not yet.
If they are as good as they say they are then I will have saved myself a heap of money, time and effort, If Not then it won't be the first time I have bought something that wasn't up to scratch.

[John_D4]

I did a breakdown of all the materials that I would need to build a 2 drawer system with a fridge slide and it worked out to be over $1200 and I think that I would have spent a bit more than that eventually ( the drop down slide was about $700 on its own) .
I went with the Titan drawers in the end at $588 delivered including a fridge slide.
I haven't received the drawers yet so I cannot say if they are any good or not yet.
If they are as good as they say they are then I will have saved myself a heap of money, time and effort, If Not then it won't be the first time I have bought something that wasn't up to scratch.

Just curious...why Titan over Kings?

[trout1105]

Just curious...why Titan over Kings?

The Drawer systems from 4WD Supercentre are Titan

[ScotchRocks]

I did a breakdown of all the materials that I would need to build a 2 drawer system with a fridge slide and it worked out to be over $1200 and I think that I would have spent a bit more than that eventually ( the drop down slide was about $700 on its own) .
I went with the Titan drawers in the end at $588 delivered including a fridge slide.
I haven't received the drawers yet so I cannot say if they are any good or not yet.
If they are as good as they say they are then I will have saved myself a heap of money, time and effort, If Not then it won't be the first time I have bought something that wasn't up to scratch.

I considered the titan drawers but decided to make my own for two main reasons:
1. I want the fridge as low as possible due to weight and ease of access - I don't like the design with the fridge above the drawer.
2. At 900 mm long the smallest of the titan drawers won't fit in the cargo space with the rear seats in. I wanted the versatility of drawers than can be used with or without the rear seats in the vehicle.

At the end of the project I will do a final costing, but I probably will end up spending $650-$700ish.

[John_D4]

The Drawer systems from 4WD Supercentre are Titan

Gotcha

[Mclaren00]

I considered the titan drawers but decided to make my own for two main reasons:
1. I want the fridge as low as possible due to weight and ease of access - I don't like the design with the fridge above the drawer.
2. At 900 mm long the smallest of the titan drawers won't fit in the cargo space with the rear seats in. I wanted the versatility of drawers than can be used with or without the rear seats in the vehicle.

At the end of the project I will do a final costing, but I probably will end up spending $650-$700ish.

Same my fridge is 800mm long and just fits so I will be doing something the same

[ScotchRocks]

Materials cost (to date):
$145.37 30 m (5 x 6m lengths) 25 mm square tube
$31.63 6 m lipped (flanged) 25 mm square tube
$19.01 24 x 3 way 'Y' connectors (qubelok or cube lock or handyman or whatever brandname you want. Mine came from Ullrich.)
$2.73 4 x 2 way corner connectors
$7.92 8 x 4 way 'Y' connectors
$209.28 3 x Pairs 700 mm 125 kg locking drawer slides
$62.50 1800 x 1200 x 2 mm aluminium sheet remaining from my rear door card project (1200 x 2400 sheet was $79.77)
$19.24 100 x trumpet head metal screws (25 mm)
$6.05 25 x M6 x 40mm bolts and nuts
$3.90 M6 washer pack
$507.63 Total so farConsumables:
$16.93 Pack of 5 sheet metal jigsaw blades

Tools Used (to date):
Tape measure
Sharpie
Cutoff Saw
File
Dead blow hammer (Best tool EVER! Or you can use a less awesome rubber mallet)
Jigsaw
F clamps
Drill and bits
Some wood offcuts for clamping and drilling
Straight edge
Philips screwdriver (or driver bit if you are feeling lazy)

Process Update:
11. Spent a solid couple of hours neatening up the edges of all the aluminium plates.
123007
12. Got all the mounting plates drilled, de-burred and affixed to the frame.
123009123008
13. Pre drilled all the holes for the self tappers, then mounted the drawer slides to the mounting plates.
123010123011

Super happy with the results so far. All the weight is adding up though. Probably 18-ish kg so far. Will be interesting to see what the final weigh in is with all the accoutrements affixed.

Picked up some ply, marine carpet and other bits and pieces for the next steps today.
Next will be the attachments for the tie downs, ply on the top then fridge slide board and drawer inserts last. Hopefully one night this week - but the daylight after work is getting shorter.

[Strop]

Hi,

Sorry coming to this late. Thinking of same for my D4.

Not sure if the tie downs are in the same place but, I was looking at the Driftas draw sets and they have holes in my the sides so you can access the tie down points more easily and not have to sneak your hand down to access the turnbuckles. They also had holes in their floor panel to access wheel winder and under floor storage - not sure if this is appropriate for your model.

Where are you going to attach turnbuckles to on fridge side?

All the best,

Laurie

[ScotchRocks]

Hi,

Sorry coming to this late. Thinking of same for my D4.

Not sure if the tie downs are in the same place but, I was looking at the Driftas draw sets and they have holes in my the sides so you can access the tie down points more easily and not have to sneak your hand down to access the turnbuckles. They also had holes in their floor panel to access wheel winder and under floor storage - not sure if this is appropriate for your model.

Where are you going to attach turnbuckles to on fridge side?

All the best,

Laurie

Hi Laurie,

1. Mounting turnbuckles between frame and factory tie downs will be at the front sides and on the rear of the assembly - difficult to explain in text, there will be some good photos in my next update.
2. No floor panel. Frame on carpet. Don't need access in a D2 (unless fuel pump dies and needs replacing, cover your ears Murphy). For D3/D4 I would either go swing away rear wheel carrier or many people have made a socket extension for the winder that pops up between the drawers. If I was doing this in a D3/D4 I would make the frame and drawers / slide asymmetrical so the winder would sit on one side of the central frame rail.
3. Fridge will be secured by either tiedowns from handle to slider frame or I might remove the feet and use those holes to bolt it to the slide (4 places) which would be very neat and tidy - or both for paranoia!

cheers.

[loanrangie]

I made a similar unit for my D1, space is at a premium in a D1 so i mad mine stepped at the rear so that it hugged the back of the reat seats/cargo barrier so that my 50ltr waeco would fit with modified handles.
Not enough room for a fridge to sit on top of a drawer system plus fridge access is difficult, fridge plus 2 drawers comes to just below middle seat height with carpeted plywood on top so visibility isnt reduced.

[ScotchRocks]

Materials cost (to date):
$145.37 30 m (5 x 6m lengths) 25 mm square tube
$31.63 6 m lipped (flanged) 25 mm square tube
$19.01 24 x 3 way 'Y' connectors (qubelok or cube lock or handyman or whatever brandname you want. Mine came from Ullrich.)
$2.73 4 x 2 way corner connectors
$7.92 8 x 4 way 'Y' connectors
$209.28 3 x Pairs 700 mm 125 kg locking drawer slides
$62.50 1800 x 1200 x 2 mm aluminium sheet remaining from my rear door card project (1200 x 2400 sheet was $79.77)
$19.24 100 x trumpet head metal screws (25 mm)
$6.05 25 x M6 x 40mm bolts and nuts
$3.90 M6 washer pack
$22.00 1200 x 900 x 7 plywood
$3.05 12 mm x 1 m aluminium tube
$532.68 Total so far

Consumables:
$16.93 Pack of 5 sheet metal jigsaw blades

Tools Used (to date):
Tape measure
Sharpie
Cutoff Saw
File
Dead blow hammer (Best tool EVER! Or you can use a less awesome rubber mallet)
Jigsaw
F clamps
Drill and bits
Some wood offcuts for clamping and drilling
Straight edge
Philips screwdriver (or driver bit if you are feeling lazy)
Your preferred grades of sand paper
Hacksaw

14. Measured, trimmed and affixed ply to top.
123133123134

15. Made spacers from tube for the mounting bolts so that they don't crush the qubelock when tightened (thanks to my future father in-law for the hint) and used some SS bolts I had lying around.
123135123136

16. Getting closer.
123137

I am not happy with the turnbuckle fastening system. They will only just turn when attached, and regardless of spreading the load I feel like they could/would tear through the qubelok. Then again if they get loaded like that, the vehicle will probably be upside down and some damage to the drawer frame will be the least of my worries. Thinking a pair of diagonal ratchet straps over the whole assembly might be a better go. Or a skirt of saddle clips and rope webbing. Unsure. I feel like I am making it more complicated than it needs to be.

Any good suggestions?

[John_D4]

Materials cost (to date):
$145.37 30 m (5 x 6m lengths) 25 mm square tube
$31.63 6 m lipped (flanged) 25 mm square tube
$19.01 24 x 3 way 'Y' connectors (qubelok or cube lock or handyman or whatever brandname you want. Mine came from Ullrich.)
$2.73 4 x 2 way corner connectors
$7.92 8 x 4 way 'Y' connectors
$209.28 3 x Pairs 700 mm 125 kg locking drawer slides
$62.50 1800 x 1200 x 2 mm aluminium sheet remaining from my rear door card project (1200 x 2400 sheet was $79.77)
$19.24 100 x trumpet head metal screws (25 mm)
$6.05 25 x M6 x 40mm bolts and nuts
$3.90 M6 washer pack
$22.00 1200 x 900 x 7 plywood
$3.05 12 mm x 1 m aluminium tube
$532.68 Total so far

Consumables:
$16.93 Pack of 5 sheet metal jigsaw blades

Tools Used (to date):
Tape measure
Sharpie
Cutoff Saw
File
Dead blow hammer (Best tool EVER! Or you can use a less awesome rubber mallet)
Jigsaw
F clamps
Drill and bits
Some wood offcuts for clamping and drilling
Straight edge
Philips screwdriver (or driver bit if you are feeling lazy)
Your preferred grades of sand paper
Hacksaw

14. Measured, trimmed and affixed ply to top.
123133123134

15. Made spacers from tube for the mounting bolts so that they don't crush the qubelock when tightened (thanks to my future father in-law for the hint) and used some SS bolts I had lying around.
123135123136

16. Getting closer.
123137

I am not happy with the turnbuckle fastening system. They will only just turn when attached, and regardless of spreading the load I feel like they could/would tear through the qubelok. Then again if they get loaded like that, the vehicle will probably be upside down and some damage to the drawer frame will be the least of my worries. Thinking a pair of diagonal ratchet straps over the whole assembly might be a better go. Or a skirt of saddle clips and rope webbing. Unsure. I feel like I am making it more complicated than it needs to be.

Any good suggestions?

I'm using turnbuckles & and have had no issues. My box is 3/4 ply tho. I found the stainless wire railing ones better than the standard turn buckles. Took my Land Rover through the Melrose Land Rover weekend at Easter with no movement at all. I've got my fridge secured with ratchet straps.

[ScotchRocks]

Materials cost (to date):
$145.37 30 m (5 x 6m lengths) 25 mm square tube
$31.63 6 m lipped (flanged) 25 mm square tube
$19.01 24 x 3 way 'Y' connectors (qubelok or cube lock or handyman or whatever brandname you want. Mine came from Ullrich.)
$2.73 4 x 2 way corner connectors
$7.92 8 x 4 way 'Y' connectors
$209.28 3 x Pairs 700 mm 125 kg locking drawer slides
$62.50 1800 x 1200 x 2 mm aluminium sheet remaining from my rear door card project (1200 x 2400 sheet was $79.77)
$19.24 100 x trumpet head metal screws (25 mm)
$6.05 25 x M6 x 40mm bolts and nuts
$3.90 M6 washer pack
$22.00 1200 x 900 x 7 plywood
$3.05 12 mm x 1 m aluminium tube
$Free A length of 40mm square galvanised tube I had left over from another project
$Free 2 x 40 mm square plastic end caps as above
$Free Some 1/4 SS Bolts, nuts and washers I had around the shed
$18 2 x 10mm Turnbuckles
$10.50 2 x M10 85-100 mm bolts
$4.13 2 x M8 60 mm bolts

$565.31 Total so far

Consumables:
$16.93 Pack of 5 sheet metal jigsaw blades

Tools Used (to date):
Tape measure
Sharpie
Cutoff Saw
File
Dead blow hammer (Best tool EVER! Or you can use a less awesome rubber mallet)
Jigsaw
F clamps
Drill and bits
Some wood offcuts for clamping and drilling
Straight edge
Philips screwdriver (or driver bit if you are feeling lazy)
Your preferred grades of sand paper
Hacksaw
Masking tape
Rags

17. After letting the turnbuckle issue marinate for a little while - it was annoying me that because the frame comes so close to the side trims at the front, the turnbuckles wouldn't be able to turn, and if I spaced them out so they would, then It would be cumbersome so slide objects down the sides of the drawer assembly and impractical to remove the tail light / aux electrics / SLS air intake trim covers. Then I saw some galvanised tube I had spare and thought - that looks like it would fit over the tie down points - viola!
123588123587

18. An M8 bolt goes through the eye of the tie-down D inside the square tube, then an M10 bolt goes through the tube at 90 degrees and into the frame. Once they are bolted, they are pulled to tension by tightening the two turnbuckles at the back of the frame, that don't foul on the frame. Black caps on the top of the square tube make it all finger friendly.
123589

19. I was very careful when drilling to use masking tape and some old towels to prevent any swarf getting into the drawer slide mechanisms.

The frame feels very solid now everything is tied down to the vehicle.

20. I cut the flanged section for the sides of the bases of the fridge slide and draws to length, but feel the flange is too small to support the internal ply properly, so I will probably end up rotating these tubes and sacrificing some drawer depth for the extra strength of screwing into the top of the tubes rather than the little flange.
123588

Hope to get the fridge slide and drawer internals finished off this week - stay tuned!

[ScotchRocks]

Materials cost (to date):
$145.37 30 m (5 x 6m lengths) 25 mm square tube
$31.63 6 m lipped (flanged) 25 mm square tube (they only had black coated in stock, so I got that for the price of uncoated.
$19.01 24 x 3 way 'Y' connectors (qubelok or cube lock or handyman or whatever brandname you want. Mine came from Ullrich.)
$2.73 4 x 2 way corner connectors
$7.92 8 x 4 way 'Y' connectors
$209.28 3 x Pairs 700 mm 125 kg locking drawer slides
$62.50 1800 x 1200 x 2 mm aluminium sheet remaining from my rear door card project (1200 x 2400 sheet was $79.77)
$19.24 100 x trumpet head metal screws (25 mm)
$6.05 25 x M6 x 40mm bolts and nuts
$3.90 M6 washer pack
$22.00 1200 x 900 x 7 plywood
$3.05 12 mm x 1 m aluminium tube
$Free A length of 40mm square galvanised tube I had left over from another project
$Free 2 x 40 mm square plastic end caps as above
$Free Some 1/4 SS Bolts, nuts and washers I had around the shed
$18 2 x 10mm Turnbuckles
$10.50 2 x M10 85-100 mm bolts
$4.13 2 x M8 60 mm bolts
$Free an offcut of 7mm ply that was big enough for the fridge slide.

$565.31 Total so farConsumables:
$16.93 Pack of 5 sheet metal jigsaw blades

Tools Used (to date):
Tape measure
Sharpie
Cutoff Saw
File
Dead blow hammer (Best tool EVER! Or you can use a less awesome rubber mallet)
Jigsaw
F clamps
Drill and bits
Some wood offcuts for clamping and drilling
Straight edge
Philips screwdriver (or driver bit if you are feeling lazy)
Your preferred grades of sand paper
Hacksaw
Masking tape
Rags
Draw slider internal screw hole template on a length of aluminium flat bar
21. After cutting the flanged section to length (650 mm) I carefully measured the distance between the drawer slides closed and extended. Then I carefully measured it again. 418 mm for me.
123689
Cut and filed to size, knocked it together with the two way right angle connectors and it fit perfectly.
123690

22. Then I made up the ply sheet that sits inside the perimeter flanged lip, did a couple of cutouts for the tie down straps to pass around the tubes and screwed it down.
123691

23. Had to make a template of the slider hole positions because I didn't want to take the assembly out of the car and was too lazy to tape the slide shelf in place while marking.
123692

24. The shelf screwed in nicely. 7 Screws on each side of the inner rail, not going anywhere anytime soon.
123693123694

25. The moment of truth. Test fit our fridge Engelbert and realised the lashing straps I had lying around weren't long enough will have to pick up some more.
123695

26. ...and Engelbert sits comfortably in his new home.
123696

Next update I will remember to hold my phone sideways when photographing. Hope no one gets a sore neck.

[John_D4]

Not sure if ur aware, but judging from the pics ur car seems to be lying on its side! Thought I'd point it out as it's easy to miss :)

[ScotchRocks]

Two for one! This is Friday night and today/

Materials cost (to date):
$145.37 30 m (5 x 6m lengths) 25 mm square tube (only used 4 out of 5 lengths)
$31.63 6 m lipped (flanged) 25 mm square tube (they only had black coated in stock, so I got that for the price of uncoated.
$19.01 24 x 3 way 'Y' connectors (qubelok or cube lock or handyman or whatever brandname you want. Mine came from Ullrich.)
$2.73 4 x 2 way corner connectors
$7.92 8 x 4 way 'Y' connectors
$209.28 3 x Pairs 700 mm 125 kg locking drawer slides
$62.50 1800 x 1200 x 2 mm aluminium sheet remaining from my rear door card project (1200 x 2400 sheet was $79.77)
$19.24 100 x trumpet head metal screws (25 mm)
$6.05 25 x M6 x 40mm bolts and nuts
$3.90 M6 washer pack
$66.00 3 sheets of 1200 x 900 x 7 plywood
$3.05 12 mm x 1 m aluminium tube
$Free A length of 40mm square galvanised tube I had left over from another project
$Free 2 x 40 mm square plastic end caps as above
$Free Some 1/4 SS Bolts, nuts and washers I had around the shed
$18 2 x 10mm Turnbuckles
$10.50 2 x M10 85-100 mm bolts
$4.13 2 x M8 60 mm bolts
$Free an offcut of 7mm ply that was big enough for the fridge slide.
$30.00 Pair of cambuckle tie downs

$639.31 Total so far

Consumables:
$16.93 Pack of 5 sheet metal jigsaw blades

Tools Used (to date):
Safety glasses, ear protection, overalls, boots.
Tape measure
Sharpie
Cutoff Saw
File
Dead blow hammer (Best tool EVER! Or you can use a less awesome rubber mallet)
Jigsaw
F clamps
Drill and bits
Some wood offcuts for clamping and drilling
Straight edge / square
Philips screwdriver (or driver bit if you are feeling lazy)
Your preferred grades of sand paper
Hacksaw
Masking tape
Rags
Draw slider internal screw hole template on a length of aluminium flat bar
Ratcheting screwdriver or 1/4 inch shifter
Small chisel
35 mm hole saw

27. Knocked up the drawer internal frames. Side ply is on the outside to maximise internal space, the base ply sits nicely inside the flanges on the back and sides. I deliberately left it secured by gravity alone, so if anything gets spilled or impacts the base it is easy to replace.

123845123847

28. Stay hydrated when working with power tools late at night.
123848

29. Only managed to get the sides and base of the top drawer finished Friday night (and the frame for the bottom drawer). Took it for a test run on Saturday.
123849
Fridge moved a tiny bit off road. Going to put some locating bolts under the feet to stop lateral movement.

30. After making all the qubelok I had exactly this much left, plus an uncut 6 m length.
123850
Only needed 24 m!

31. Finally got around to removing (the bloody heavy) rear seats today. Didn't have a T50 bit... so now I have a complete set of Tamperproof Torx bits! I don't know if I love or hate whoever invented them. It makes the length of the drawers a bit of a non-issue for now, but one day the seats will go back in.
123851

32.
All four drawer slider mounting patterns were pre-drilled from my template. I very very carefully removed the innermost rail from the drawer slide, keeping it out of the aluminium swarf, filings and sawdust to not get the lubricant contaminated. Then screwed the 7 locating screws through on both sides, then re-mounted very carefully, making sure not to damage the bearings (or to straighten the one that got caught...... anyway).
123852123853123854

33. Tada! Two drawers. I had to chisel a little notch in the rear right of the bottom drawer to accommodate the bolt for the turnbuckle on that side.
123855

34. Ran out of pictures, next post.

[ScotchRocks]

34. Made and secured aluminium plates to the rear of each drawer.
123856

35. Hole saw + Jigsaw = drawer handles. Sits just under the frame rail.
123857123858

36. Drawers are done!
123859123860123861

37. New home for the manual :)
123862

I was a bit worried about the internal volume when I made the frames, but now it is all together, there is a lot more room than I thought.
Just need to carpet the top, put L trims on edges and I think I am going to use the left over ply to make a fascia over the front of the aluminium frame so it looks more schmick (and the CFO has requested for prettiness).

Hopefully only one more part to go!

[CU55TM Disco]

Conceptual question: do you actually need slides?
I decided not, which saved a lot of money and weight.
Just a thought...

My dad built many many sets of rear drawers for various range-rovers, pajeros, cruisers and whatever other 4wds we owned over the years.
WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY WAY before drawers in the back of wagons was the trend, never had fancy ball bearing slides, never had fancy carpet or fridge slides or none of that junk, but they still lasted and lasted and lasted, and im pretty sure most are still stashed away under his house somewhere in As Good condition.

[ScotchRocks]

From the Landrovering Gentlemans Journal:

"A gentlemans regional touring conveyance should be representative of his own particular style, acumen, proficiencies and proclivities.
Just because one can do without, does not mean one should. In the end, what would a grand tour of the southern continent be without style."

Now to choose between the Walnut and the Golden Oak stains.
Tally ho!

[Strop]

Any idea of the weight of your unit?

All the best

Laurie

[ScotchRocks]

Any idea of the weight of your unit?

All the best

Laurie

I will take it out and weigh it when I am done. Got to make sure I can access the fuel pump 'just in case.' At a guess 25 ish kilos.

[CountryHonk]

Hey guys - anyone still here?

I've found a set of "discounted" rear drawers for a Disco 2 from a mob called Shoreline in Perth. Still expensive at $800 and heavy at 70kg.

Anyway - I'm tossing up ideas on how to fix them to the deck in the rear, through those thick layers of rubber sound proofing and carpet, in the absence of OEM 3rd row housings. Can anyone help?

My favourite drawers of all time are the Tanami - all aluminium and a really strong durable and quality made piece of kit.

Cheers
matt

[GregTD5]

Hi Matt,

I made my own Rear drawers for the D2. For securing them to the vehicle, I removed the Landrover tie down points closest to rear door and bolted the drawers down through those tie down holes. Then positioned those removed tie down points to the rear of the drawers, then used turnbuckles to secure the rear of the drawers to the other 2 tie down points in the back, closest to the rear seats.
Hope this helps.
Greg