Puma difflocks

[pommy]

G'day knowledgeable people I am after some more advice concerning fitting difflocks to my 2.2 , 2015 110 wagon .
I will be fitting difflocks to my car but am worried about my rear diff strength!
I will be running 35" tyres for off road trips but most of the time 33"
Will fitting all Ashcroft gear into my existing diff be strong enough ? Heavy duty cw&p and axles and a locker As mentioned before by Vern ( ta)
Or better of just to bite the bullet and change out the diff for something else ? Salisbury! Les Richmond 9" ?
Just to add more confusion I have been offered complete diffs with Ashcroft cv maxi drive axles n flanges maxi drive cw&p from a range rover classic for a good price but not sure if they will be a straight up bolt in job or not ? Or if they will suit my car ? What will happen with all the electronic stuff on the car traction control and stability control?
Thanks in advance I know I have asked some of these questions before but now I am confused as to which way to go thanks Richard

[fitzy]

How much do you have to spend ?
How hard will you be driving it ?
My thoughts- the Ashcroft gear will be strong enough for hard driving unless you are at GVM on 35's and playing really hard
The sals is an upgrade on diff centre and gear size only.
There's a used high 9 on eBay for $5900, then you need to do the front.
The used maxi stuff if in good condition will be on par with the Ashcroft stuff and heaps cheaper.
How much for the maxi gear?

[pommy]

I do like a challenge but as this is a brand new car I guess That will come into the equation when tackling stuff ,
My last fender was a 99 td5 front n rear difflocks different radius arms rear arms steering rods 2" lift and many more mods ran 35" mickeys most of the time and 35" simex for the hard trips, was great off road not so good on road . Was hoping to get the puma close to that , already bought most of suspension stuff for it Gwyn Lewis long travel kit , was hoping it to be better on the road that's why will be 33" tyres most of the time. The second hand maxi drive stuff in $5000 , can't guarantee condition of it though from another aulro member though

[pommy]

Guess I've got $8-$10 k just want to do right this car is a keeper , my 3rd defender! Wish I could have kept the last one but things didn't work out like that

[Tombie]

You'll need to go 3.9s to keep it happy [emoji41]

[1nando]

Run ashcroft 4.11 C&P for your 35s. E lockers front and rear and upgrade axles and cvs. Get both front and rear pegged and your good to go. You won't have an issue and should be plenty strong

[Baytown]

This is a timely thread as Im looking at having at least one Diff lock fitted. Probably the front, so after recommendations on Front or rear for a single Locker please.
I run 265/75/16 BFG ATs and won't be going larger than that. I think that makes them 32 inch tyres? (I never have understood why we still refers to the Imperial measurement of tyres as in32-35 inch).
My truck is not a rock hopper or silly deep mud runner, it's a tourer, cross country vehicle.
I don't want air lockers, and ideally would have auto lockers, so I don't need to think about it.
I was sent an ad for Harris E lockers, which suit the Puma and look beautifully made.
So, do I need to get my Defender mechanic in Cairns to do extensive mods to my Diff and drive line to fit these, or will I be fine with just the E Locker fitting, leaving the axels standard? I have HD flanges fitted already.
Thanks for guidance re this fellas.

Ken

[Tombie]

Ken... ATBs front and rear and you'll be right up there.

As a tourer it would be an unbeatable combination.

And "un" lockers will be inhibitors on occasion, where as ATBs and your TC makes a combination that's hard to beat, seamless, and no drawbacks.

[Tombie]

For reference - there's a local guy running ATBs.. the thing is like a Goat on a can of Red Bull... climbs anything, clears mud easily... nigh on unstoppable

[Baytown]

Thanks for your great advice Tombie.
Ill look up any Ashcroft Diff installer in Cairns, and see what they can do for my truck. I see Les Richmond in Melbourne is a big installer, but logistics might be an issue, although I am planning a trip to Tassie within the next two months so might be able to get it done on my way through.
I really appreciate your help mate.
Pics to follow!

Ken

[Vern]

Or you could possibly jet Justin Cooper to supply and install them whilst in Tassie.

[Tombie]

The best bit about ATBs is any diff mob worth their salt will be able to set them up easily.

As a side benefit of any install like this is that driveline backlash is often reduced notably..

[DiscoMick]

Can't you just buy an ATB and any decent mechanic should be able to fit it?
I'm no mechanic, but the BIL (who is) and I were able to fit an auto locker in a couple of hours. Just remove the original diff, fit the new one and adjust the backlash. Surely there is a workshop in Cairns which could fit an ATB? How about TJM, Opposite Lock, Ironman or ARB?

[Baytown]

Hi Mick.
Im not sure if ARB, TJM or OL would fit items not sold by them. I've a nice young bloke who is the ARB agent here in Innisfail, so might see him tomorrow.
Ill see who supplies the diffs in the area and see if it'll all come together.
just a wee bit excited re this mod, my new HD clutch and Red Booster Clutch Servo.
Ill possibly drive into Cairns tomorrow to speak with TJM re the Long Ranger sill tanks for my truck, so enquire re the diffs as well.
Thanks again fellas.

Ken

[Tombie]

Or... if you want to fit at home..
Ashcroft does an outright... remove VAT but allow a bit more for shipping
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/1070.jpg

[Baytown]

Gday Damien.
Thanks for the tip re Justin.
Ive just saved his details and liked his Face Book page.
That might be a perfect solution, as I can wait till then, no issues.
Ill look into it.

Tombie, thanks for the info on ordering from the UK.
I know enough of mechaniking to get myself in trouble, but don't have the nerve to dismantle my diffs.
Thanks again either way. Justin sounds like a great option.

Ken


Or you could possibly jet Justin Cooper to supply and install them whilst in Tassie.

[djam1]

I installed my ATB on my own with a simple dial gauge it was dead easy.
As Mike says there is a significant reduction of backlash in the drive train.

[Baytown]

I've got the 110 booked in to get Airbag man rear air bags with Kevlar sleeves fitted hopefully next week, as well as ARB front and rear Air lockers.
I wasn't keen on getting air lockers, but was swayed due to the five year warranty, local fitment, Australia wide support and to have the work done by my local ARB tech who is a really nice fella. We are driving the CREB track next weekend which will be good fun.
Tombie, thanks for the advice re Ashcroft, but it's just easier all round to go ARB it seems.
Pics to follow.


Also, for anyone interested in ARB BP51 shocks (stunning gear), they won't be available for the foreseeable future to suit Defenders. ARB advise that they believe there's not enough room in the wheel arches for them to mount the remote reservoir. I'm sure it can be custom mounted, but they sell off the self, not custom.
Direct from ARB Shock tech area.


Ken

[Vern]

Hopefully whilst the lockers are getting done you are sticking descent axles and cv's in at the same time?

[Baytown]

Not at this stage Damien.
My budget has blown out, so that's enough spending for the moment. (Yeah, right!😉)

[dazzler]

For reference - there's a local guy running ATBs.. the thing is like a Goat on a can of Red Bull... climbs anything, clears mud easily... nigh on unstoppable


Got all three on mine and loving it. I cant even tell the ATB's are there at all. The car feels solid as on gravel and loose stuff even without dropping tyre pressure. Having experienced the Ashcroft ATB's I reckon they are a must for tourers.

[Vern]

Not at this stage Damien.
My budget has blown out, so that's enough spending for the moment. (Yeah, right!😉)
I would atleast do the front axles! Everything else is relatively easy to do later on

[123rover50]

Got all three on mine and loving it. I cant even tell the ATB's are there at all. The car feels solid as on gravel and loose stuff even without dropping tyre pressure. Having experienced the Ashcroft ATB's I reckon they are a must for tourers.

So are ATB,s better for those with TC and Diff locks for those with the earlier centre diff lock. Is that the consensus?

Keith

[tact]

For reference - there's a local guy running ATBs.. the thing is like a Goat on a can of Red Bull... climbs anything, clears mud easily... nigh on unstoppable


Thats not me of course, referred to above...But I do run Ashcroft ATBs front and rear in my 110 DCPU. The ATBs worked real well in the Malaysian rainforest/jungles/mud. Often surprising lifted and locked rigs running 35" or larger extreme simex type tyres, by keeping up with them while I am on 32" AT or 33" MT tyres.

You (Baytown/Ken) mentioned HD flanges but standard axles. Thats also what I run with my ATBs and no issues at all. Even with hard driving on hard core jungle trails, with 170HP AB tune and 450NM on tap. Why?:
- ATB design means that one can never have 100% of available drive/torque delivered to any one half shaft alone.
- So you dont "need" HD axles to avoid half shaft breakages that may occur because e.g. only one wheel on an axle has traction and gets all available drive via a fully locked diff.
- (am sure that you could find other ways to break a half shaft if you tried hard enough though...e.g. wild wheelspinning a wheel in the air just before it touches down hard and shock loading it)

Of course the downside of ATBs is that in certain situations (like extreme crossaxle for example) you can get stuck:
- without other aids like electronic traction control, then you have to be very adept with left foot braking and throttle control to get moving again on ATBs.
- with electronic traction control and ATBs you will do way better than left foot braking in these situations. And not quite as good as you might with fully locked diffs.

Apart from all of the above, two of the outstanding plusses for ATBs I reckon are:
- you completely remove the old diff centre with its tacky spider/side gears. Instant, quality, strength and reliability upgrade. (as opposed to retaining that rubbish and being able to lock it as needed with a selectable locker)
- they are working for you everywhere you go, on and off road, with no thought or intervention from you. You can feel them (in a nice way) working for you even on a run to the shop for milk.

Fully recommend putting them both front and rear. (And if ever my centre diff starts giving trouble an ashcroft ATB is going in there too!)

Neil

[tact]

Not at this stage Damien.
My budget has blown out, so that's enough spending for the moment. (Yeah, right!😉)

Better do the HD axles....will cost less than doing them after you break a stock unit on the CREB...miles from help...

[tact]

So are ATB,s better for those with TC and Diff locks for those with the earlier centre diff lock. Is that the consensus?

Keith

Not so simple as that really. Even the Pumas with TC have a lockable centre diff (which should, arguably, be locked pretty much as soon as the going gets serious. With or without TC).

It is a case of horses for courses. If your "course" is really hard core trails, or competition driving, then nothing less than full on selectable lockers will do. With full HD driveline (shafts, unis, CVs, etc) to go with it all the way...

Or if you were foolish enough to go feral and alone into difficult places with no way to call for help - then one may argue stupidly that with full selectable lockers one could possibly break three half shafts and maybe still limp home on one half shaft, alone and unassisted. (locking the diff with one good halfshaft and locking the CDL). But this is stupid talk. ;)


If a sensible bugger who likely does more miles on tarmac and gravel than in the jungles in low range - and has appropriate recovery gear, knowledge/experience how to use, and travels with other suitable sensible people in properly equipped vehicles... then tackling the occasional hard core crazy stuff with ATB's instead of lockers may well see you giving curry to a stunned lock'd brigade back at the campfire.

[tact]

By way of comparison my previous 4x4 was from another manufacturer who used the tag "Unbreakable" in advertising the vehicle:
It was a DCPU
(as is my current Defender)

Bought new and didn't take it off-road in it's first year
(same as I treated my Defender)

Broke 4 CVs on separate outings in the second and third years. No lockers in play.
(no such breakages with my Defender with same driver, the same kinds of hard trails and ATBs fitted)

Now the differences that should render the Defender more likely for breakages:
the "Unbreakable" vehicle that kept breaking CVs ran 32" tyres
(the Defender is on 33")

Unbreakable weighs in at 1565kg sopping wet.
(Defender is 2042 dry)

Unbreakable ran a 2.8l naturally aspirated diesel producing a mildly disappointing 80hp and 186Nm stock, a bit more after injector pump mods but still nowhere near the TDCi.
(Defender runs 2.2l TDCi putting out 170hp and 450Nm)

Happy with the Defender. ;)