Touring Classics

[Chivalry]

G'day fellow tragics,

I'm going to be going on a rather long road trip with my girlfriend in the not too distant future and am of course going to be using my Rangie to do so. So I was wondering if anyone had photos, information and knowledge to share about their own or other RRCs that have been set up to do long distance touring. We would not be planning to stray too far from civilisation, just a bit further than far enough. Actual offroading would be limited to gravel/dirt roads.

I have a very original and well looked after 1994 soft dash. I will do a top end rebuild on the 3.9 with a new cam, timing chain, reconditioned heads, new valves, lifters etc. I have a long range tank that I would like to use if only for the convenience of less frequent fuel stops and arguably some more weight lower down as a roof top tent will be used also. I am aware of the 'structural strength' of the pillars and recommended maximum weights. The car still has working EAS and I would like to retain this, I will fit new bags but wondering what to do about the shocks. It is possible that I will need to keep the rear seat in place for some extra passengers for the start of the journey, so I will build my own storage solution around this. I have a ARB rear bar and hope to get a spare carrier (ideally 2) for it to create additional room inside. My short list of essentials is roof top tent, roof rack to suit, awning or two, UHF, dual battery kit, some sort of solar charging, provision for at least one larger fridge with maybe a smaller second, necessary spare parts and additional water storage.

However, to say it politely, I am not looking for criticisms. I would just very much appreciate relevant photos, information and modification ideas.

Thanks in advance to all!

Photo of someone else's, for no reason at all

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/986.jpg

[superquag]

I'm assuming your EAS is working perfectly... do you own a 'Kicker' or re-set device for it ? Will be embarrassing if something upsets it and you're down to the bump stops... Trust me, not comfortable! See Blackbox Solutions.

Either way, you need to have a 'Self-Rescue/bag isolation system' in place. This can be simply a tap, Tee-piece and Schraeder valve set for each 'bag, dangling somewhere near, or to be fancy, plumbed back to one spot to look Very Neat . Or you can simply take enough fittings and parts etc, to make one up if disaster strikes.
You have an air pump with you? Suspension inflation as well as tyres... which is why you have the Schraeder (tyre) valves on the Self-Rescue.
And, I hope you've cleaned the EAS air filter.... Take out the subwoofer assembly to find the little hatch. Check RAVE.

Being Super-Prepared will make a Favourable Impression on the future (?) SWMBO

Regarding bags, I would steer clear of the (supposedly better) USA / ARNOTTS units, simply as they're not repairable, as is the OEM setup.

I had the ARNOTTS on my late Classic and they worked well, but, if/when the rubber perishes, then the whole unit gets tossed.

Another thing, I understand that the REAR bladders, which are longer, can be used on the fronts.
Makes sense, as doing so would allow ONE 'universal' spare to be carried, instead of needing two. (one of each) Check before you jump!

There were articles here on how to change bags in the field, as well as the discussion of using REARS on the FRONTS. Shop around for prices on them... they can vary up to 100%. Last time I looked, around $90 each, from UK

Best of luck! [biggrin][biggrin][biggrin]

[Grumbles]

A critical review of the cooling system might be in order including having the radiator rodded and fitting a new viscous cooling fan hub might be worth thinking about along with an auto tranny service.

Enjoy your trip......[thumbsupbig]

[Chivalry]

I'm assuming your EAS is working perfectly... do you own a 'Kicker' or re-set device for it ? Will be embarrassing if something upsets it and you're down to the bump stops... Trust me, not comfortable! See Blackbox Solutions.

Either way, you need to have a 'Self-Rescue/bag isolation system' in place. This can be simply a tap, Tee-piece and Schraeder valve set for each 'bag, dangling somewhere near, or to be fancy, plumbed back to one spot to look Very Neat . Or you can simply take enough fittings and parts etc, to make one up if disaster strikes.
You have an air pump with you? Suspension inflation as well as tyres... which is why you have the Schraeder (tyre) valves on the Self-Rescue.
And, I hope you've cleaned the EAS air filter.... Take out the subwoofer assembly to find the little hatch. Check RAVE.

Being Super-Prepared will make a Favourable Impression on the future (?) SWMBO

Regarding bags, I would steer clear of the (supposedly better) USA / ARNOTTS units, simply as they're not repairable, as is the OEM setup.

I had the ARNOTTS on my late Classic and they worked well, but, if/when the rubber perishes, then the whole unit gets tossed.

Another thing, I understand that the REAR bladders, which are longer, can be used on the fronts.
Makes sense, as doing so would allow ONE 'universal' spare to be carried, instead of needing two. (one of each) Check before you jump!

There were articles here on how to change bags in the field, as well as the discussion of using REARS on the FRONTS. Shop around for prices on them... they can vary up to 100%. Last time I looked, around $90 each, from UK

Best of luck! [biggrin][biggrin][biggrin]

G'day mate, yes the previous owner had already installed a 'get out of trouble' kit for the suspension, he also installed a "rocket launcher" switch under the drivers seat to isolate the entire system if need be. [wink11]

It is very possible that this particular female could become the SWMBO. She was very jealous of the soft dash after it came home and still refers to it as my 'younger girlfriend'.

I was looking at the LRA bellows, they are $100 each, I planned to take 2. I very much appreciate that the previous owner persevered with the EAS and kept the car so well. I believe the EAS to be a very important part of the last of the RRCs and would never want to do a coil conversion.


A critical review of the cooling system might be in order including having the radiator rodded and fitting a new viscous cooling fan hub might be worth thinking about along with an auto tranny service.

Enjoy your trip......[thumbsupbig]

Yes, the radiator currently in the car needs attention but I have a good spare and wanted to make the engine oil and transmission fluid have their own radiators with fans. I also have a service kit for the transmission that was included with the car upon purchase from it's previous caretaker.

I was wondering though if it would be worth my time to fit thermo fans and remove the viscous fan whilst doing the radiator (which will be done at the same time as cam replacement/top end refresh). As I never want to take such a nice example of a soft dash offroad or through rivers or mud, I was thinking that a viscous fan is not really essential for what I need from the car. Having said that though, the fan is working well.



Thanks for your replies so far!

[Vern]

I too have a soft dash, lse actually, but it is extensively modified for offroad and touring with 210L of fuel available, diesel engine, and eas in the bin, one less thing i don't have to deal with.
But also look at getting bellows from airbagman, they are cheaper and a little taller. Bilstien apparently do an eas compatable shock, or look at koni.

[superquag]

If you plan on taking a pair of spare bellows, then maybe you should check the current bellows/ airbag units... make sure they are OEM, and not the ARNOTTS, that quite a few Classics sprouted.

(Betcha they're ARNOTTS.... in which case you'll need the OEM alloy end-mounts and don't lose the little clips that hold them in place.)


Hint:- have a close look on the Dampers (common cars have 'shocks', Range Rovers are above such crude descriptors...) - see if you can find a mileage and/or date scribbled on them. Some intelligent owners write such info on parts they replace.

I'd look seriously at a total radiator replacement as being the easy way out.

My advice from a LR radiator expert is... the standard radiator can cope with [B]Anything, as long as it's clean. Too many owners have a cheap after-market core fitted, instead of the more expensive "OEM-Equivalent" Problem with the cheapy is... poor quality and insufficient metal to solder onto the (original) end tanks, so they tend to pop off in time. [bigsad]


Top end overhauls are always a good idea, funnily enough, I've got a (European made) head gasket set for a 3.9, sitting on top of my wardrobe, just need to locate the safe place where the head bolts are hiding... ? No good to me as I don't own one anymore.[smilebigeye][smilebigeye][smilebigeye]

Quite a few folk have replaced the VC fan with a pair of Ford Falcon thermo-fans. This may be a viable option, cost-wise and I'm told they work well. Wait a day or three and the info will surface here. [biggrin]

[Davo]

A new radiator or a good-quality recore, no question about it. Rodding isn't good enough. Look at where I live and you'll see why I've learned a lot about Rangie cooling systems.

Thermo fans are good, but not before a big trip. It takes a bit of experimenting to figure out the best way to mount them, and best way to wire them up, and the best way to switch them on. I'm onto my third try and hopefully have got it right.

We drove down to Augusta and back over the New Year holidays, and didn't see a single Classic! So you'll have no trouble spotting your vehicle in a carpark. [biggrin]

[gavinwibrow]

The car still has working EAS and I would like to retain this, I will fit new bags but wondering what to do about the shocks.



From the PO of my LSE with EAS

The Koni (adjustable) shocks are almost too stiff when empty, but come into their own when loaded or towing.

[jsp]

After driving a 94 softdash and 88 hard dash in very stock form on quite a few nice holiday trips I can only recommend a new radiator rather than trying to refresh the cooling system, stick with the stock viscous fan - make sure it works, its worked this far and on how ever many classics around the world, and just ensure your EAS is leak free and has a pump up point or two added in so you can pump up the tank at the servo or with a compressor. if your really worried about it install a switch on the AC fan's, as mine don't seem to come on when the car was getting hot and the ac wasn't on.

I wouldn't bother carrying too many large ticket spares, there is not allot of space in a classic if your going away for a few weeks or more, especially if you have the fridge, bedding, camp gear, etc, and in all seriousness if you need a drive shaft or trans kick down cable (as happened to me in the Victorian otways/strzelecki track) or something and your not going far from civilization the worst case is one being overnight'd from where ever.

I would put some effort into making sure all the suspension bushes are good and things like tie rod ends and the steering box are good, makes it nice to drive and no unexpected strange tire wear in a place where tires aren't cheap, and carry two spares depending on where you plan to go.

Ensure you have a good cargo barrier and if you have lots up top maybe use the strength of the cargo carrier to ensure some safety in the event off a roll over. I have seen a few pancaked classics and it does worry me, particularly with the two door.

Sounds like SWMBO's a good one :) mine hates the big TJM roof rack, so it had to come off, she said it made the car look like a tip top bread truck.

If your doing shocks go the oem boges - they ride like a cloud, if your loading up with weight go the red koni's, they are great but harsh if not loaded up as allready pointed out earlier in the thread. just my 2 cents ;)

[superquag]

Amen to the idea of replacing suspension bushes... stick with the original idea of.... Rubber. Once again, check out the UK suppliers for prices, and do the lot, not just a few... and have a look at the links etc on both stabilizer bars. From memory, these are part of the 'kit'. Ditto with tie rod ends, especially if they show evidence of being bent or impacted...

For normal use, the standard / OEM Dampers are perfect, the air suspension requirements are different to coil springs. - Something to do with different forces on 'bound' and 're-bound' (push-in and pull-out, for the ignoranti...[bigwhistle] )

When I changed them on Lady Sarah, not long after purchase, (used OEM ) they were all about the same, and replacing was an indulgence or 'pro-active maintenance'. By the time we parted, suspension bushes were onto the list. SWMBO who normally drives a Mercedes and late model Magna, commented on Sarah's rear end being... twitchy.

A strong cargo barrier is a[B] brilliant idea.

[DoubleChevron]

Amen to the idea of replacing suspension bushes... stick with the original idea of.... Rubber. Once again, check out the UK suppliers for prices, and do the lot, not just a few... and have a look at the links etc on both stabilizer bars. From memory, these are part of the 'kit'. Ditto with tie rod ends, especially if they show evidence of being bent or impacted...

For normal use, the standard / OEM Dampers are perfect, the air suspension requirements are different to coil springs. - Something to do with different forces on 'bound' and 're-bound' (push-in and pull-out, for the ignoranti...[bigwhistle] )

When I changed them on Lady Sarah, not long after purchase, (used OEM ) they were all about the same, and replacing was an indulgence or 'pro-active maintenance'. By the time we parted, suspension bushes were onto the list. SWMBO who normally drives a Mercedes and late model Magna, commented on Sarah's rear end being... twitchy.

A strong cargo barrier is a[B] brilliant idea.

I fitted a full bush kit from the UK a few months back. I urge caution. The panhard bushes wouldn't have even done 3000kms ... and they were so flogged out they fell to bits when I pulled them out. I suck at buying cars parts that aren't a LOT worse than the worn out junk I'm replacing within a tiny period of time.

seeya,
Shane L.

[Vern]

With the quality control of rubber bushes these days, i'd opt for superpro anyday.😊

[PhilipA]

As someone who has done a circuit a couple of times in a 91 RRC, I offer the following
1 replace the upper tailgate locks before you go unless they have been known to be replaced in the last 5 years. If you asked me why I would say it aint fun driving on the Tanami from Wolf Creek to the end with the tailgate open.
2 Good advice re radiator
3 have the starter motor dismantled and checked as you cannot push start an auto. It cost me $100 and was well worth it.

4 I really don't think you need to isolate the coolers etc. I would just change the auto fluid for Castrol Transmax Z which is a full synthetic ATF and recommended by ZF for HD applications. I towed a 1tonne camper and never had the trans warning light come on.(except when it filled with water once) . Of course you ZF must be in good nick or you are asking for trouble.

5 Block up the aircon outlets in the D pillars with duct tape and if you can be bothered check that the plastic sheets behind the door trims are in place.
That is all I can think of now.
Regards Philip A
When I think about it , I would not do electric fans as they tend to fail at the worst time. a new VC and fan blades is what I would do and did do. Check that your aircon fans are working also. Mine failed in Kununurra and the pressure in the evaporator stopped the engine cranking. Have your aircon serviced before you go.

A few more things. How old is your alternator? If old a Bosch replacement is the way to go as you can get parts all over the place. What mostly fails in a Bosch is the regulator /brush pack which is cheap and small and available at any Repco . Just ask for a Commodore or Magna one.

[superquag]

There's some info around about re-locating the gas strut mounts for the upper (glass & rust) tailgate. Briefly, the struts are now 'over-centre' and their 'push' now keeps it closed, instead of constantly trying to open it.
When it does pop open at speed... you lose any loose papers inside the car. Never did find that $10 note on the centre console [bigsad] Yes, the latches were worn and letting go.

Would be instructive to know what particular brand of rubbers fell apart. I've been told that there can be some... variance.. with certain 'aftermarket' brands over there.

When I replaced some bushes on the Pajero years ago, there was a choice of urethane 'hardness'. I picked the softest. Ride was firmer than the worn out rubber but not obnoxious.

Good idea re Starter Motor. Brushes are cheap, at home. One of the few LUCAS items that is WORTH re-furbishing, if required.

[Vern]

There a quite a few posts in the past of OEM bushes flogging out in hardly any time at all.
And as stated in many many posts, superpro aren't normal poly/urethane bushes.

The tailgate mod was done by maxidrive from memory. Pretty sure i have a tailgate somewhere that has had it done to it.

[gavinwibrow]

The tailgate mod was done by maxidrive from memory. Pretty sure i have a tailgate somewhere that has had it done to it.

I have a word version copy of the changeover for the rear door with pics if anyone needs it. PM with an email address and I'll forward it.

[PhilipA]

I don't think the mod will make much difference as a tailgate AJAR will let in as much dust as an open one.

OP will still need new locks. They are only about $100 a pair and it is better to do at home than waiting a week in Kununurra and then receiving a pair of D2 rear airbags. LOL Although the caravan park at Ord River Dam is quite nice. They seem to last about 15 years.
Regards Philip A

[superquag]

The dust is one thing... but when the glass bit flings itself open in mid-flight... you get a similar 'explosive decompression' effect ..and scares the whatsis our of you..plus the sudden vacuum drags everything out. before you can grab the money.....[bigsad][bigsad][bigsad]

For the Fright Value alone it's worthwhile. Besides, best time to do it is in conjunction with said lock bits.

Pity no-one ever designed and manufactured (kit or full) a totally one-piece rear door assembley, either side or top opening.
I've seen barn-style replacements on a Classic, from memory it was an ex-Brit. Govt. armoured car, suitable glass all around, ballistic shielding and run-flat tyres. Must have had a terrible thirst !

Not sure if its this one, but. MacNeillie - Armoured - Range Rover Classic (http://www.range-rover-classic.com/Home/land-rover-brochures/range-rover-specials/macneillie---discreetly-armoured-vehicles)

This is what I mean... GALLERY - My Suffix A 2 Door Range Rover (http://range-rover-2-two-door-forum.2296729.n4.nabble.com/My-Suffix-A-2-Door-Range-Rover-td4157343.html)

Someone-somewhere has done it in firbreglass.... so it CAN be done. classic range rover one piece rear tailgate in glassfibre | in Kinross, Perth and Kinross | Gumtree (https://www.gumtree.com/p/car-replacement-parts/classic-range-rover-one-piece-rear-tailgate-in-glassfibre/1227109386)

[gavinwibrow]

Someone-somewhere has done it in firbreglass.... so it CAN be done. classic range rover one piece rear tailgate in glassfibre | in Kinross, Perth and Kinross | Gumtree (https://www.gumtree.com/p/car-replacement-parts/classic-range-rover-one-piece-rear-tailgate-in-glassfibre/1227109386)


For a moment there, I thought it was in WA's version of Kinross/Perth!

Anyone coming back from Blighty with some spare room?

[jezza89]

Sounds like a good trip. Not many people around have the balls to take a RRC on a long trip, but if you set it up right, it'll be an experience like no other!

I can probably help you out with any accessories or gear you might need for the trip. We are opening the new TJM corporate super store in Kewdale on Monday, and it's set up to be a one stop shop for decking out a 4wd with quality gear.

We can run you through a bunch of rooftop tent setups, dual battery options, lighting, UHF, suspension, fridges, roof racks and pretty much any kind of accessory you can think of.

Sorry for the plug!

Would be good to put a face to a name and be part of setting up your rig!

Cheers,
Jeremy

[pop058]

The dust is one thing... but when the glass bit flings itself open in mid-flight... you get a similar 'explosive decompression' effect ..and scares the whatsis our of you..plus the sudden vacuum drags everything out. before you can grab the money.....[bigsad]

For the Fright Value alone it's worthwhile. Besides, best time to do it is in conjunction with said lock bits.

[B]Pity no-one ever designed and manufactured (kit or full) a totally one-piece rear door assembley, either side or top opening.
I've seen barn-style replacements on a Classic, from memory it was an ex-Brit. Govt. armoured car, suitable glass all around, ballistic shielding and run-flat tyres. Must have had a terrible thirst !

Not sure if its this one, but. MacNeillie - Armoured - Range Rover Classic (http://www.range-rover-classic.com/Home/land-rover-brochures/range-rover-specials/macneillie---discreetly-armoured-vehicles)

This is what I mean... GALLERY - My Suffix A 2 Door Range Rover (http://range-rover-2-two-door-forum.2296729.n4.nabble.com/My-Suffix-A-2-Door-Range-Rover-td4157343.html)

[B]Someone-somewhere has done it in firbreglass.... so it CAN be done. classic range rover one piece rear tailgate in glassfibre | in Kinross, Perth and Kinross | Gumtree (https://www.gumtree.com/p/car-replacement-parts/classic-range-rover-one-piece-rear-tailgate-in-glassfibre/1227109386)

They did [smilebigeye]

122974

122975

[Vern]

Mike Smiths 2 door rangie had a 1 piece fibreglass rear door as well

[Davo]

Sounds like a good trip. Not many people around have the balls to take a RRC on a long trip, but if you set it up right, it'll be an experience like no other!

I can probably help you out with any accessories or gear you might need for the trip. We are opening the new TJM corporate super store in Kewdale on Monday, and it's set up to be a one stop shop for decking out a 4wd with quality gear.

We can run you through a bunch of rooftop tent setups, dual battery options, lighting, UHF, suspension, fridges, roof racks and pretty much any kind of accessory you can think of.

Sorry for the plug!

Would be good to put a face to a name and be part of setting up your rig!

Cheers,
Jeremy

But why? I've seen people up here on old tractors, camels, horses, pushing wheelbarrows, and in vintage cars. Still, having said that, we did 7000km over Christmas in our old Rangie and I was most disappointed that not a single person came up and told us we were crazy!

[trumpycam]

+1 to Davo our 2 Door has been our main car or 28 years and still the no 1 choice when we go away. It has run a 300tdi for the last 15 and don't think to use it. If still in doubt just ask yourself, hey it's a Land Rover and what could possibly go wrong, and you realise it's not worth worrying about and just go.

[BigJon]

But why? I've seen people up here on old tractors, camels, horses, pushing wheelbarrows, and in vintage cars. Still, having said that, we did 7000km over Christmas in our old Rangie and I was most disappointed that not a single person came up and told us we were crazy!

Until I got my Vogue my 87 Hiline was my main vehicle. Did loads of trips from Alice all over the place. Never once had the thought that I shouldn't take it. Then again, the Rangie was a step up from my lifted HJ Kingswood ute which did all of my previous touring, including the Gibb River Road, Bungle Bungle, etc.