A few jobs I have backed up to do

[clintooo]

I have a few jobs that have backed up due to work commitments. But now I was thinking they need doing and I might as well do them at once. Some are required as bits are leaking, others, are preventative. Car is a 2004 TD5 has done 200K. It has been serviced every 10K but most of that by previous owner at local garages, and that has just been fluid and filter changes and the odd broken bit.

Since I have had it over the last 15K. I have flushed the transmission (it had been 80K since it was last done). Replaced ½ cooling hoses (others I didn’t get in time). I’ve also done the injector harness.

I’m planning on a week long trip up north this year, plus a few other weekends away. Also planning for next year to do Perth to Ceduna, Googs track to Cooper Peady, then onto Uluru and back to Perth via the Great Central Road. Most likely towing a small camper trailer. So I would like to do all of this with that in mind.

What I am planning on replacing is below. I will group them based on what I think is the best way to do it all.

My inlaws have a pit in their garage and they are away for a month. So one it makes those jobs from below easier and two I can afford to take my time as I can drive one of their cars.

I would appreciate any comments on what I should do at the same time and if there is anything else you feel I should replace while I’m there or anything else you feel you would like to ad.

[clintooo]

Transfer Case

It is leaking via hand brake and the side plate.

Thought I would replace the output seal and bearing, brake shoes and brake spring kit.
I was going to buy:
1. Output Seal (genuine)
2. Bearing (undecided on brand)
3. Felt washer
4. Big Nut
5. Replace other 4 drive shaft bolts (as they have been off before)
6. Spring kit
7. Brake shoes (already have)
8. Gasket goo for the side plate (is there a seal for that)
9. do I need to get the adjuster rebuild kit?

[clintooo]

I replaced the goose neck hose as it was rubbing, but the pump is leaking in the middle.

I was going to buy
1. Pump (not sure what brand to get can I get by without the exorbitant amount LR want)
2. Gaskets required?? (I think there is one for where the goose neck attaches, but is there onw on the back side).

Can I connect the goose neck hose to the new pump on the bench and install it as one piece (it was a PIA getting that hose on last time)

[clintooo]

The housing is weeping slightly at the hose connection, so I suspect it is the housing that is starting to corrode and it’s lost its seal to the hose. I replaced the top elbow last year as it had done the same. But thought I would do it all while I’m there for piece of mind.

I have the case already. So will buy:
1. Pump (not sure what brand)
2. O-ring kit (I think it is just the 3 o rings needed)
3. Hose from pump to metal pipe.
4. Gasket for the bottom of the rotor filter drain pipe. (do I need to remove the hose from the rotor housing too and thus replace that gasket)

Removal and reinstallation I was thinking would be as follows

1. I thought I would remove the oil filter rotor housing (I need to helicoil the front side hole as I have had to use a nut on the bottom of it) so I figure it will be easier to do this on the bench)
2. Remove the pipe to intercooler from turbo.
3. Undo AC compressor to make some room
4. Remove water pump housing
5. Do the engine mount then.

I figured that would give me the best access. Or should I do the removal in a different order?

[clintooo]

Drivers side is leaking on the back plate. I’ll pull the disc off tomorrow and work out if it is the hub or the o-ring. Where does the oil leak from the hub? Or should I just replace the hub now? And do I do the other side or wait for it to go.

I guess depends on whether I go land rover or aftermarket brand?

[clintooo]

Idler pully, tensioner and belt will be done at that point too.

I’m thinking of doing the harmonic balancer and seal while I have most of it apart. But I guess that is another $500 or so for the HB.

Rear donut and front propshaft were replaced at 150K (although front shaft with LR original).

EGR, provent, EGT and Boost gauges have been done too.

Any thing else people think I should do while I’m there.

The sump gasket is weeping slightly, but I'm not sure if there is any benefit in doing that at the same time? However, fixing that will then eliminate all of my oil leaks (i hope) so it is tempting.

[gavinwibrow]

Remainder of hoses,
Some things to consider (before the trip/s)
Radiator/Thermostat? Viscous Fan? Fuel Cooler/Fuel Pump Regulator? Oil Cooler? Engine & Trans Mounts, MAF, Belts, Shock Absorbers? Rear Drive Coupling? Key Batteries? Idler Bearing and Battery/ies - just for starters.
I'm assuming you have recently changed coolant and brake fluids, and already have a low coolant alarm and/or Nanocom.

[clintooo]

yes, I have thermostat and balance of water hoses to fit, which I will do. Just bought an engine watchdog, which Im yet to fit. I have a nanocom too.

I recently replaced key battery and bought one of those flip key fobs, which I quite like. But batteries is something you don't think about.

I didnt think of viscous and radiator. Might be a job for later on.

FPR too, was something I was thinking of doing anyway (if only they werent $3-400 it would make it easier as a preventative). is the fuel and oil cooler something that does tend to fail?

shocks I'll do next year before the trip and then I'll have a spare. I also just bought set of helper airbags so they will go in the rear. 2nd battery is installed in the back too.

[ScotchRocks]

If you do the sump, check that pesky oil pump bolt so you KNOW that YOU were the one that did it.

[Bluetoes]

Transfer Case

It is leaking via hand brake and the side plate.

Thought I would replace the output seal and bearing, brake shoes and brake spring kit.
I was going to buy:
1. Output Seal (genuine)
2. Bearing (undecided on brand)
3. Felt washer
4. Big Nut
5. Replace other 4 drive shaft bolts (as they have been off before)
6. Spring kit
7. Brake shoes (already have)
8. Gasket goo for the side plate (is there a seal for that)
9. do I need to get the adjuster rebuild kit?
Hi this might help with the seal replace www.discovery2.co.uk (http://www.discovery2.co.uk) he has a detailed walk through on it

[Bluetoes]

Drivers side is leaking on the back plate. I’ll pull the disc off tomorrow and work out if it is the hub or the o-ring. Where does the oil leak from the hub? Or should I just replace the hub now? And do I do the other side or wait for it to go.

I guess depends on whether I go land rover or aftermarket brand?

Mine is the same driver side as well some one here will probably correct me but as far as I'm aware if it's weeping from hub you have to replace hub if not it's the o ring seal

[clintooo]

cheers

I'm printing out a small file for reference, so I will add that to it. Just trying to source parts and will then work out what order to do it all in.

[clintooo]

Mine is the same driver side as well some one here will probably correct me but as far as I'm aware if it's weeping from hub you have to replace hub if not it's the o ring seal

yes that was my understanding. I think from what I have read, you can determine if it’s the hub as it will be leaking through the middle of it or a combination of oil and grease if it’s the hub.

But from what I have read, it seems most of the time it is the hub and not the oring. I was going to pull my disc off to see if I can determine which it is.

I also read to check your diff breather isn’t blocked. So I will do that too.