squaring bulkhead/ body to chassis

[Andy130]

Hi Guys,

Getting to the stage of the 130 rebuild where the firewall and body are getting put back on the chassis.

Im wondering if anyone has advice on how to ensure the bulkhead and body is square to the chassis?

Is it ok/ common to put washers between the bulkhead and chassis mount to square it up if one side is out?

At this point, with no spacers, it looks like the bulkhead is off square about 4mm relative to the chassis on the passenger side - i.e The two mounting brackets behind the centre section ( behind the seatbox) on the outrigger on the passenger side have no clearance unless I loosen the chassis to bulhead bolt and move it rearwards about 4mm.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Probably wayyy to late to suggest, but might be worth measuring how true the chassis is, then measure bulkhead to a chassis reference point.
Not sure where you'd find it but I've seen in some vehicle workshop manuals, they list the chassis measurements to help the panelbeaters get it right when they stretch them on the rack :eek2:

[Andy130]

Probably wayyy to late to suggest, but might be worth measuring how true the chassis is, then measure bulkhead to a chassis reference point.
Not sure where you'd find it but I've seen in some vehicle workshop manuals, they list the chassis measurements to help the panelbeaters get it right when they stretch them on the rack :eek2:

yeah can be done- i've got those datum points,but you need to mark them on the floor, then roll car forward to measure off the floor markings. Minor obstacle is timing still not done , so flywheel is locked -let's just assume it's all a bit wonky,and hope I don't have to look out the side window to drive a straight line down the road once its all done:-).

[Toxic_Avenger]

Let's just do everything up loosey-goosey then flex it up until everything is aligned then nip the body bolts up.
Simples!

[JDNSW]

I think you will find that 4mm is within tolerance both for chassis alignment and body alignment.

How are you testing "square? The critical element is the distance between the front of the tub and the bulkhead, as it is possible to adjust the bulkhead but not to move one side of the tub forward or back. The dimension each side needs to be correct or your doors won't fit.

John

[Andy130]

Thanks JD,

The tub is not on at the moment. I'll just do this slowly and get everything in place before I tighten anything up too much.

[strangy]

Hi Andy,
Mine had 3 washers on the right hand side and 2 on the left.
You may find these washers to be necessary for final front door alignment as well as body alignment.
I found the chassis measurements on RAVE and recall them available on the net also.
I checked the chassis for straightness and the tolerance from factory is quite generous. (I recall 2mm)
In any case the mounting holes on chassis and panels have significant adjustment in them.

Back to the bulkhead- essentially take measurements from the mounts to the front x member diagonally and parallel, do the same from the the radius arm mounts to compare and from these you will get an idea of how true the bulkhead mount is vs the chassis.
The washers are used essentially to rectify "variances" in the final welded bulkhead mount rather than the chassis itself.Likewise the bulkhead mount brackets.
The side/lower section and "b" pillar has no adjustment at the front bulkhead so trial fit or measure back from the position to confirm the rear bulkhead will locate ok once the front is fitted.
As I said before, there is a lot of "scope" for adjustment and its no wonder a lot of these leaked and had significant air gaps from new.
Toxic has it right leaving everything finger tight til its all aligned.

No comments on the tub as mine is trayback but would think the tub has as much scope as the rest of the body.

[Andy130]

Hi Andy,
Mine had 3 washers on the right hand side and 2 on the left.
You may find these washers to be necessary for final front door alignment as well as body alignment.
I found the chassis measurements on RAVE and recall them available on the net also.
I checked the chassis for straightness and the tolerance from factory is quite generous. (I recall 2mm)
In any case the mounting holes on chassis and panels have significant adjustment in them.

Back to the bulkhead- essentially take measurements from the mounts to the front x member diagonally and parallel, do the same from the the radius arm mounts to compare and from these you will get an idea of how true the bulkhead mount is vs the chassis.
The washers are used essentially to rectify "variances" in the final welded bulkhead mount rather than the chassis itself.Likewise the bulkhead mount brackets.
The side/lower section and "b" pillar has no adjustment at the front bulkhead so trial fit or measure back from the position to confirm the rear bulkhead will locate ok once the front is fitted.
As I said before, there is a lot of "scope" for adjustment and its no wonder a lot of these leaked and had significant air gaps from new.
Toxic has it right leaving everything finger tight til its all aligned.

No comments on the tub as mine is trayback but would think the tub has as much scope as the rest of the body.

Thanks Strangy,

The firewall to chassis bolts I pulled out of the ziplock bag I put them in had 2 washers on one and 3 on the other - it's been a while since I pulled it apart and of course cant remember which bolt goes on what side LOL.

I'm sure we'll work it out now, thats again for your help.

[67hardtop]

From what i can work out, and i'm not an engineer, just a mechanic, when i begin to put Betsy back together, i will be fitting the tub first, as its position, back to front, as far as i can work out, is fixed by the rear cross member. Then i'll be fitting the bulkhead loosly and the seat box, then i'll hang the doors and get the door gaps right, then i'll firmly mount the bulkhead. My old bulkhead had spacer washers fitted between it and the outriggers, as did the front tub mounts. BUT my drivers door was very difficult to close due to no gap left. I suspect now, after dissasembly, that the bulkhead needed more spacing to allow the drivers door opening to be wider. There is a lot of tollerance available on the bolts and the galv strips along the bottom of the seat box between the bulkhead and tub, to allow quite a bit of "adjustment". Thats how i'll be doing it anyway. It just makes sense to me that it should be done that way.

Have fun.

Cheers Rod