Which Warren & Brown deflecting Torque Wrench

[Cannon]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/354.jpg (http://wbtools.com.au/app/uploads/Precision-TOOLS-Catalogue_p50.png)

I have a birthday coming up, a Discovery2a V8 & a 2.25 Petrol Series 2a.

The Series needs at least the head off & probably the piston rings changed.

I'm not ruling out pulling the heads off the Disco yet either.

Which of the above TW will be the best allrounder?

Thank you for your advice

[Bearman]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/354.jpg (http://wbtools.com.au/app/uploads/Precision-TOOLS-Catalogue_p50.png)

I have a birthday coming up, a Discovery2a V8 & a 2.25 Petrol Series 2a.

The Series needs at least the head off & probably the piston rings changed.

I'm not ruling out pulling the heads off the Disco yet either.

Which of the above TW will be the best allrounder?

Thank you for your advice

I'd go the 323500.

[Toxic_Avenger]

The 322500 (185nM) will do most of what you need IIRC. On the latest defender at least, the highest torque setting bolt I could see was the panhard bar nut at 230nM.
Most fasteners you touch will be much, much lower.

I have snavelled a few used cheapies off ebay, scoring a 322000 (165nM, 1/2") and a 321100 (110nM 3/8"). Deflecting beam with a ratchet head would be bloody amazing. Especially with the 6 point sockets, some things are difficult to get to with the vanilla deflecting beam wrench. .

[steveG]

The 322500 (185nM) will do most of what you need IIRC. On the latest defender at least, the highest torque setting bolt I could see was the panhard bar nut at 230nM.
Most fasteners you touch will be much, much lower.

I have snavelled a few used cheapies off ebay, scoring a 322000 (165nM, 1/2") and a 321100 (110nM 3/8"). Deflecting beam with a ratchet head would be bloody amazing. Especially with the 6 point sockets, some things are difficult to get to with the vanilla deflecting beam wrench. .

If its the angle issue you're meaning do you know you can get ratcheting adapters - ie 3/8-3/8 but have a ratchet mechanism between??

Like this http://toolguyd.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/Proto-Ratchet-Adapter.jpg

Steve

[Toxic_Avenger]

I've seen them, but haven't got one!

Which goes back to the point that most torque wrenches are the ratcheting type these days. The micrometer style is ubiquitous, and way more suitable for access to fasteners, but not as accurtate- especially if put away with the micrometer wound up.
On the other hand, the 'near as damnit' rule applies for most situations. Heck, LR supplies torque settings for some fasteners down to 6nm. Most people with a spanner or socket in their hands would be tightening much higher than this.
TL;DR choose your battles, and know the limitations of each style of torque wrench.

If money was no object, there are some very nice ratcheting flex head electronic (and vibrating/ haptic feedback) snap-on wrenches, but even used they are still upwards of $500 clams.

[Pateyw]

I would go the 378300 does angel as well as toque.
good for the head bolts.

[whitey56]

Have a look at the Kincrome range i bought one [$180 i think] to do my truck heads not as finished as the WB but couldn't justify a extra cost for a tool that would get little use.

[DazzaTD5]

IMHO...

I'd tend to say the 10 - 185nm one is likely to be the most useful (322500)

*Are you stuck on a brand? if not search the Britool range of torque wrenches, nicely made and good on price.
*Picking a torque wrench that works in its middle range for most of what you do is a general rule of thumb,
*Digital ones (from a known brand) are by far more accurate than older style, this is in part to the user rather than anything else.
*Digital will also do degrees and other torque measurements besides NM.
*Having two doing different ranges is in the end more useful, a 3/8 drive and a 1/2 drive.

*Quality tools will last you a lifetime.
*A cheap nasty torque wrench can give a different torque each time it gets used.
*The pic is my somewhat obsessive nature with regards to torque wrenches

The pic....
1 & 2 - Digital Snap-on, 3/8, 1/2 drive and the most used. has ratchet, does left or right, does degrees, has LED graph, vibrates, n beeps, I'd never consider not having both of these, round that $700 (which i actually think is brilliant value for money)
3 - Britool, nice quality and value for money, no ratchet (buy a separate head, although i think you can buy them with an integrated ratchet head), will torque left or right, perfect for both trade and vehicle owners a like. I think round that $200
4 & 5 - Were used a lot when I worked on EWPs, Cranes, specialised use with the large 3/4 drive doing round 460NM, cost is over $2000 you would only buy one if you had the use. (but funny enough is good for front crank bolt on a TD5)
The little one on the far left is older than me and is used for doing 300tdi timing belt tensions.
123566
Regards
Daz

[rick130]

Just an observation and old fart talking here.

Once upon a time we called them Tension Wrenches and our US cousins called them torque wrenches.

Looks like another Aussie idiom has bitten the dust. [bigsad]

As Daz said buy the best you can.
There are companies that offer calibration services too, there used to be a bloke that travelled Sydney years ago calibrating tension wrenches.
Old ones that have been well looked after, ie, molly coddled are well worth grabbing if you can get them for a good price. We threw my old Ritch deflecting beam that dates from well before I was born on his machine one day and it was spot on.

[Cannon]

Thanks everyone for your input.[biggrin]

I'm leaning towards the 323500 with maybe a ratchet adaptor in the future if reqd.

[Cannon]

Changed my mind & going the 322500[biggrin]

[Don 130]

If the moment hasn't passed, and you think kinchrome is ok, their deflecting beam TW's are on special till the end of June. Same spec as 323500 is $245.00
Don.

[VladTepes]

speaking of torque wrenches I have a large one (I think 1/2") but want to get a smaller one for the majority of fasteners on my motorbike.

I assume the smaller ones would be 3/8 drive?

I wonder why 1/2" and 3/8" seem to be the standard drive sizes when in reality they aren't that much different... why not 1/4" ?

[Cannon]

If the moment hasn't passed, and you think kinchrome is ok, their deflecting beam TW's are on special till the end of June. Same spec as 323500 is $245.00
Don.

Thanks Don, but I've just ordered a W&B 322500 for $257 delivered.[biggrin]

[incisor]

speaking of torque wrenches I have a large one (I think 1/2") but want to get a smaller one for the majority of fasteners on my motorbike.

I assume the smaller ones would be 3/8 drive?

I wonder why 1/2" and 3/8" seem to be the standard drive sizes when in reality they aren't that much different... why not 1/4" ?
The are 1/4"Warren & browns.. I have one but it is no longer useable sadly

[incisor]

If the moment hasn't passed, and you think kinchrome is ok, their deflecting beam TW's are on special till the end of June. Same spec as 323500 is $245.00
Don.
Kinchrome have a 4% tolerance and Warren and Brown have a 2% tolerance...

[rick130]

The are 1/4"Warren & browns.. I have one but it is no longer useable sadly
Ditto, although mine's still very much in use !

Bought originally for kart engine use back in the eighties, it's been used for auto band adjustments, (What most mechanics used to use them for) bikes, chainsaws, etc
Basically anywhere that needed lb/in bolt/screw tensions.

[scarry]

Just an observation and old fart talking here.

Once upon a time we called them Tension Wrenches and our US cousins called them torque wrenches.

Looks like another Aussie idiom has bitten the dust. [bigsad]

As Daz said buy the best you can.
There are companies that offer calibration services too, there used to be a bloke that travelled Sydney years ago calibrating tension wrenches.
Old ones that have been well looked after, ie, molly coddled are well worth grabbing if you can get them for a good price. We threw my old Ritch deflecting beam that dates from well before I was born on his machine one day and it was spot on.

One of these?
Got this one from the local Sunday markets,still in box with instructions,about 20yrs ago.

Nice and simple,not much to go wrong.

Down low settings not real good,but for the higher settings,such as wheel nuts, flywheel settings,great.

I actually need one that does the lower settings,so have been watching this thread with interest.

As for the cheapees,guys, don't even bother.I have seen machinery badly damaged by them.



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/350.jpg (https://picturepush.com/public/15805972)

[BathurstTom]

Just an observation and old fart talking here.

Once upon a time we called them Tension Wrenches and our US cousins called them torque wrenches.

Looks like another Aussie idiom has bitten the dust. [bigsad]

As Daz said buy the best you can.
There are companies that offer calibration services too, there used to be a bloke that travelled Sydney years ago calibrating tension wrenches.
Old ones that have been well looked after, ie, molly coddled are well worth grabbing if you can get them for a good price. We threw my old Ritch deflecting beam that dates from well before I was born on his machine one day and it was spot on.


I still have two Ritch tension wrenches. One is a little worse for wear - a LOT of use. The other is pristine :)

Tom.

[Cannon]

It's a thing of beauty[biggrin]

Happy birthday to ME[thumbsupbig]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/354.jpg

[rick130]

One of these?
Got this one from the local Sunday markets,still in box with instructions,about 20yrs ago.

Nice and simple,not much to go wrong.

Down low settings not real good,but for the higher settings,such as wheel nuts, flywheel settings,great.

I actually need one that does the lower settings,so have been watching this thread with interest.

As for the cheapees,guys, don't even bother.I have seen machinery badly damaged by them.



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/350.jpg (https://picturepush.com/public/15805972)


I still have two Ritch tension wrenches. One is a little worse for wear - a LOT of use. The other is pristine :)

Tom.


This is my old one Paul and Tom.
It was dear old Dad's, I'm guessing he would've bought it in the late fifties/early sixties.


124457

[Mercguy]

It's a thing of beauty[biggrin]

Happy birthday to ME[thumbsupbig]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/354.jpg

Congrats on your fine Birthday present!
It should last you a lifetime, and your children/heirs for generations to come.

Interesting to note they have hardly changed in 50+ years.
127504
Around xmas 2 yrs ago my father passed his 322000 on to me - claiming he no longer had a use for it. [wink11]
I was elated. I had put up with several really 'average' tension wrenches over the last 20 years, always too tight to lash out on an expensive one, because mine were always going out of cal. (=toss out)
127503
So I get the big W&B tested and bloody hell -It's still in callibration.[biggrin] I now get it regularly callibrated and an adjustment if req'd (done on the sliding foot) along with my others since it's been added to my workshop.
What's interesting to note is on mine, the sliding scale is accurate dead in the middle and not on either side of the stamped callibration. I note your new style one has a nice riveted in printed scale.
127502

It's also amazing that after the years of use in my less-than-careful adolescence that it was still within spec when I first had it tested...
Now, I've dropped this thing more than a few times, and even used it as a bit of a breaker bar in years gone by, I am now ashamed to say.
I wasn't as 'understanding' back then, like most kids - we just used whatever was close. But it rebuilt my kart engines, my bikes, my 308, 355, 383's, 12A & 13B's many times, along with countless geabox rebuilds, flywheels and clutches....

Nowadays I have a Snap-Off Techangle digital thingy which does the final tq figure plus the angle measurement. It's been absolutely hands-down the best time saving tool I've bought in the last 20 years. ( it's used every other day) It gets tested every month, and it's never been out by more than 0.1% which is way more accurate than your hands can feel @250ftlb. Insofar as specs go, the callibration sheets are pretty telling if you want to pay extra for the printout, but it's not necessary.
127501

I still use the W&B for the "less accurate" stuff - i.e. things that just need "doing up in ftlbs". It's usually set to 75, because that's what I do the Mercedes wheel bolts up to. It's always at hand in the "go-to drawer".
But that Warren & Brown unit is a sentimental favourite. It's just been so reliable, and so comfortable and easy to use - and considering my father never had it callibrated other than when it was done at the time of purchase (it used to be a free service!!! ha!) and all these years, with me hanging off the end of it like a monkey, it's never budged out of cal- I'm really surprised.

With regards to looking after it, just keep the beam well blued or spray it with lanotec / wipe it over with woolgrease. It will never rust then, unlike mine, which has a small amount of surface rust (after 50 years you would too) and you will learn to appreciate the odour, as I have. clean with kero, wipe with an old linen teatowel (yes, that special oily rag you nicked from the missus linen-press which you still keep hidden from her, lest you feel her wrath if she finds out) and reapply the woolgrease / lanotec.

All the abuse you can see on mine is from my early teens to early 20's. I wish I was a little more careful with tools back then, and also bought 'better quality' ones right off the bat, as it has probably cost me 3-4x over what it would have originally.

I notice they now come in a fancy blow-moulded case....
good idea actually, keeps it protected well from shock damage while in transit.

Pity about the sticker instead of the riveted plate. Signs of modern times..... Still, theyre a great tool, accurate and repeatable and best of all really robust, like all good australian made tools.

[AK83]

That image of the WB wrench brings back memories.
Back in the mid 80's when I was doing Engineering at RMIT, one of the classes was practical, and we had to make our own torque wrenches.
Calibrated and working perfectly too .. although I lost many marks for rushing my job and not doing it by their book.
But idiot me!! I had a mate that was working as an electroplater, and he convinced me to 'chrome it' to stop it rusting.

[bigsad]

Of course it lost it's calibration and the chromed spring steel stem was not longer deflecting!

He was right tho .. it never rusted [biggrin] ... useless as a torque wrench tho.

[p38arover]

I have two W&B tension wrenches.

I'll have to have a look at which ones I have for the sizes. I know that the first one I bought (1/2" drive) back in the Sixties is a little too big for most jobs. The 3/8" drive one I have is more useful.