GBE
25th May 2017, 08:44 AM
My otherwise smooth running (well for the last 6 months anyway) 2004 Disco II Classic's battery gave up the ghost when the cool change came through about a month ago.
A couple of phonecalls to RACQ had me jump started and back in my own driveway, and then waiting for them to show up again the next morning with the appropriate replacement - of course they couldn't find the correct one at 9.15 on a Saturday night, hence the jump start.
Fast forward a few weeks and on a cold Monday morning I turn the key all the way and get ...... Nothing!?!
No clicking, no dimming of lights, just nothing.
I turn it off, scratch my head, try again and it starts first go, get to work no problem.
Enter vehicle with trepidation that afternoon but have no problem starting and getting home.
In one of my searches I found a plausible explanation that the immobiliser computer and engine control computer - ECU & BCU(?) can get out of sorts and forget to recognise each others existence and subsequently the power might go to the starter relay but the immobiliser circuit wont let it earth ad hence "the nothing".
The alleged solution is to turn the key to on and then walk away for 5 minutes and let the computers sort themselves out.
For the last two weeks I've not had the problem until lastnight. Instead of waiting the 5 minutes I got out of the car, armed it with the button on the key until the red dot on the dash slowed to usual pace, then unlocked and started easily as soon as the glow plug light went off.
So the questions for those who've made it through all the above;
Is this fault normal? And as my old mechanic suggests D2 immobilisers are a work of satan and just like everyone else he knows who owned a D2 I'm doomed to have the alarm go off of its own accord and fail to respond to the button on the key, or the security code painstakingly entered via the correct number of turns of the lock?
Is it worth even bothering to check relays and fuses or is the above diagnosis of miscommunication of the two computers on the money?
Is this something I should be handing over wads of cash to a LR specialist such as KHOR to fix or is a reliable auto electrician a better bet?
And is this likely to have been brought on by careless use of jumper leads?
A couple of phonecalls to RACQ had me jump started and back in my own driveway, and then waiting for them to show up again the next morning with the appropriate replacement - of course they couldn't find the correct one at 9.15 on a Saturday night, hence the jump start.
Fast forward a few weeks and on a cold Monday morning I turn the key all the way and get ...... Nothing!?!
No clicking, no dimming of lights, just nothing.
I turn it off, scratch my head, try again and it starts first go, get to work no problem.
Enter vehicle with trepidation that afternoon but have no problem starting and getting home.
In one of my searches I found a plausible explanation that the immobiliser computer and engine control computer - ECU & BCU(?) can get out of sorts and forget to recognise each others existence and subsequently the power might go to the starter relay but the immobiliser circuit wont let it earth ad hence "the nothing".
The alleged solution is to turn the key to on and then walk away for 5 minutes and let the computers sort themselves out.
For the last two weeks I've not had the problem until lastnight. Instead of waiting the 5 minutes I got out of the car, armed it with the button on the key until the red dot on the dash slowed to usual pace, then unlocked and started easily as soon as the glow plug light went off.
So the questions for those who've made it through all the above;
Is this fault normal? And as my old mechanic suggests D2 immobilisers are a work of satan and just like everyone else he knows who owned a D2 I'm doomed to have the alarm go off of its own accord and fail to respond to the button on the key, or the security code painstakingly entered via the correct number of turns of the lock?
Is it worth even bothering to check relays and fuses or is the above diagnosis of miscommunication of the two computers on the money?
Is this something I should be handing over wads of cash to a LR specialist such as KHOR to fix or is a reliable auto electrician a better bet?
And is this likely to have been brought on by careless use of jumper leads?