300Tdi front crankcase seal replacement - can it be done with radiator in?

[86mud]

Hi all

Argh...another oil leak. I just redid the sump gasket...but now I have noticed that I am getting a weep of oil out of the drain oil below the timing cover. I am assuming that the front crankcase seal and o'ring have failed.

Just planning ahead for the replacement of the seal - do I need to remove the radiator to replace this seal? Ie will there be enough room to remove the crank shaft gear?

A lot of work for a $10 seal!

Thanks

[Tins]

Hi all

Argh...another oil leak. I just redid the sump gasket...but now I have noticed that I am getting a weep of oil out of the drain oil below the timing cover. I am assuming that the front crankcase seal and o'ring have failed.

Just planning ahead for the replacement of the seal - do I need to remove the radiator to replace this seal? Ie will there be enough room to remove the crank shaft gear?

A lot of work for a $10 seal!

Thanks

There's a bit more work than just taking the rad out. The seal behind the pulley is only a dust seal. The actual oil seal is behind the cam belt drive gear. To get at that you have to take off the cam belt cover. So, you may as well do the belt while you're at it. Bit more than $10, I'm afraid. And yes, taking the rad out is ideal, as it is very hard to get at everything, and also to see anything doing this job.

[Andy130]

What John said.

Also - there are actually 2 seals - one for the cam shaft and one for the crank. There is also the o-ring on the crank.

So, plan to replace both seals, plus the o-ring.

Definitely a radiator out operation and certainly worth doing the belt at the same time.

Whilst you are at it, it's well worth doing the P gasket and replacing the waterpump bolts if they weren't done at the last belt change.

[Tins]

What John said.

Also - there are actually 2 seals - one for the cam shaft and one for the crank. There is also the o-ring on the crank.

So, plan to replace both seals, plus the o-ring.

Definitely a radiator out operation and certainly worth doing the belt at the same time.

Whilst you are at it, it's well worth doing the P gasket and replacing the waterpump bolts if they weren't done at the last belt change.

Yep. There's a bit you can knock over while you do this, as it beats the heck out of taking it all apart again. You also get to enjoy getting the 27 mm bolt undone. I look back on it now....

[DeanoH]

Andy130 has nailed it. This isn't a $10 'she'll be right mate' exercise. Do it once, do it right. :)

Spend what's needed and do the job properly, it'll be a lot cheaper in the long run.

Drop Roverlord a PM, he can provide quality components at a good price. Be wary of the cheap crap out there, it's just not worth it.

Deano :)

[bee utey]

Don't forget the auxiliary shaft seal either, I did and it cost me another belt as well as the seals and time.

[86mud]

Sorry, I should have been more descriptive in my first post.

Everything was replaced when I did the timing belt about 6 months ago. Just annoying that the seal has failed only after
a short time, and the amount of work required to replace this seal.

Thanks