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wozzlegummich
18th January 2006, 08:17 AM
Hi All,

This is my first post so please be gentle.

I am considering upgrading my turbo with a Mitsubishi unit from Dynamic Turbochargers. They are quoting up to 50% more grunt.

My main issue is the off boost performance (Dynamic say that it will boost a lot lower in the rev range) Being an auto I cant get up my steep driveway from a standing start - the auto just goes to stall point and the turbo isnt making any boost at that point.

I am just wondering if anyone has done this upgrade and what was the result.

weeds
18th January 2006, 08:38 AM
i don't know anything about turbo upgrades however the first questions the lads will ask is which landrover you have and which moter is fitted

i'm sure you will get some advice

wozzlegummich
18th January 2006, 11:36 AM
Yeah - didnt realise I had to add my signature manually - DOH!

101RRS
18th January 2006, 12:56 PM
If the engine is currently able to drive the auto to stall point then increasing engine power is simply going to get there more quickly.

Maybe you need to have the torque converter looked at. Maybe a higher stall converter is needed.

My thoughts anyway - or am I missing the point.

Gazzz

PhilipA
18th January 2006, 03:15 PM
I think he is saying that the 300Tdi does not have enough torque at 1600 rpm or whatever to pull the skin off a rice pudding. Ie its sits there grumbling to itself but the engine will not rev and actually drive the car forward. The 300tdi is a high torque rise engine with it all between about 1800 and 2600 rpm. I LOOVE to follow one up a really steep hill in my 3.9 V8 and when they fall off the torque curve , go up behind and say Hurry up, aren't you supposed to have more torque than a V8???

Wouldn't it be cheaper to try low range?

I would want a demo before I believed that a bigger turbo could fix it. Gas injection maybe.
regards Philip A

landrovermick
18th January 2006, 03:35 PM
Mate Low range is the go - the iup side of this is that its good to engage and use low range regularly - what better than every day up and down the driveway- i used to live in a place with a shocker dirveway - low range was a breeze - and it got me used to changing from low to high etc in a hurry.

Mick

one_iota
18th January 2006, 03:38 PM
Seems a bit odd to me.

One of the supposed benefits of an auto box over the manual in the diesel is that the torque converter allows the engine to get into the sweet zone starting at 1800 rpm as opposed to the manual that requires the driver to slip the clutch.

As for Tdi's slowing up on hills that depends on the drivers selection of ratios to keep the donk spinning in the sweet zone.

disconut
18th January 2006, 05:03 PM
Been there, done that.
Go for it. My TDi used to do the same and needed low range to get up my cousins drive. Had the DTS turbo job done and it had no more issues.
Mine was an auto also. Its probably the equivalent of chipping a TD5.

Trev.

abaddonxi
18th January 2006, 06:18 PM
Hi Worzel,

Welcome to the forum.

http://www.aulro.com/modules.php?name=Foru...ight=leo#103563 (http://www.aulro.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&p=103563&highlight=leo#103563)

Check out the above thread for some info that covers the same territory.

Leo109 is the member who knows most about this stuff.


Cheers
Simon.

fridge1
18th January 2006, 08:01 PM
I have heard that this turbo upgrade is a water cooled turbo and that it puts more pressure on the cooling system and costs a **** load of money l have put a 3" exhaust system a k+n air filter and the pipe leading from the filter to the turbo replaced it with 3" pipe ( the old plastic pipe closes up under throttle ) also pull the engine breather hose off cut it shorter ( just before the turbo ) and refit into the turbo pipe . Yeah l know what the hell is he on about but lift the bonnet and take a look around.

rick130
19th January 2006, 06:39 AM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>I have heard that this turbo upgrade is a water cooled turbo and that it puts more pressure on the cooling system[/b][/quote]

not really, as the stock Garrett turbo is technically oil cooled, and that heat ends up in the cooling system via the oil cooler in the right hand coolant tank of the radiator......

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>also pull the engine breather hose off cut it shorter ( just before the turbo ) and refit into the turbo pipe[/b][/quote]

what are you calling the turbo pipe ? I'm curious where you've gone with the breather.
Race engines often used to feed the engine breather into the exhaust system, usually at or near the collector, utilising a venturi effect to evacuate the crankcase. These days multiple scavenge stages are used on the dry sump sytem for a far more effective result.

I've replaced the tube from the wing to the air cleaner on my Defender with 3" hose, and hacked the restrictive 2.125" ID spigott off the snorkel air box for the slightly better 3" OD section 1.5" further back, and noticed not a scrap of difference over my secret test track. I also went back to a paper air cleaner from a K&N after 20,000km a few years ago, after being very suss of the K&N's ultimate filtering abilities, since borne out in an independent test overseas. I didn't notice any drop in performance going back to a paper element.

jase
20th January 2006, 03:29 PM
Another kit option is I sell a kit with the 2.8 TGC turbo
(well it's not really a kit just a list of spare parts I bring in with the engines & put togther in a box, so you can order whole kit or some parts) includes
the TGV turbo (obviously)
exhaust manifold
exhaust manifold gasket
turbo gaskets
set of exhasut manifold nuts & studs (old ones are often siezed & break on removal)

yes oil lines are suposed to interchange (I have never fitted one myself but asked I guy who did) he said was as simple half day job

Exhaust off the turbo is differant (new turbo is on differant angle) so you need a local exhasut shop to make up a new "dump pipe" off turbo (will cost appox $100 fitted) some people have run std disco exhausts (even with 2.8 engine) others get full 3" free flowing system, std is fine but bigger is better (note 3" with free flow muffler is not load on this engine)
for same reason (turbo angle) you will need to rework air inlet & outlet plumbing (cut & shut)

$ total for "kit" $2300 inc GST (I'll inc the freight) yes can do something for cash sale

this should give you lots of extra power esp low down in the RPMs
the TGV turbo is variable nozzle and gives full boost from approx 1400RPM

you don't have to re-adjust pump again but it will increase performance more if you do (I take it you know this is fairly straight fwd job and anyone can adjust pump)

Jase