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Bobc163
16th June 2017, 12:54 PM
Anyone know if Tim from traxide is around? Have been trying to contact him
Need help in regards to system in a D4
Thanks Bob
Tins
16th June 2017, 12:56 PM
Anyone know if Tim from traxide is around? Have been trying to contact him
Need help in regards to system in a D4
Thanks Bob
He sure is. DriveSafe on this forum. Saw him post very recently.
07 55692557
Home Page | TRAXIDE - RV | Traxide - RV (http://www.traxide.com.au)
Pickles2
16th June 2017, 01:38 PM
I tried to contact him last week, no answer on phone,....left message, but no call back?
Pickles.
incisor
16th June 2017, 02:25 PM
He is unwell at the moment and is responding to emails only at present, so i am informed...
Hopefully he will be back on his feet sooner rather than later....
drivesafe
17th June 2017, 08:32 AM
Hi Dave ( incisor ) and thank you.
Hi folks and sorry for any inconvenience, I’m back on line, phones included.
I can be hard to contact lately as I have been flat-out and as I can be on the phone with customers for anything up to an hour at a time, it can be difficult to reach me.
Please note, I am here up till 8PM most days, weekends included, so if it’s more convenient to phone me in the evenings, please feel free to do so.
Also note, while June is traditionally our quietest month of the year, it has not slowed down this year and ending up crook as a mongrel dog ( self-inflected ) and having to close up for a few days, it has just made delivery times blow out further.
To this end, please allow 2 weeks from placing an order to shipping and most orders are now being shipped via Express Post ( at my expense ) to reduce delivery times.
Again, my apologies for any inconvenience caused.
Pickles2
17th June 2017, 10:41 AM
Spoke to Tim this morning,.....and what an unbelieveably nice person he is.
He gave me an explanation of the Def-Combo upgrade loom.
Pickles.
gavinwibrow
17th June 2017, 04:01 PM
Spoke to Tim this morning,.....and what an unbelieveably nice person he is.
He gave me an explanation of the Def-Combo upgrade loom.
Pickles.
Yep, he's a real gem/gentleman. Nothing is too much trouble for him to explain/comment upon. A real treasure for this site.
Bobc163
17th June 2017, 04:28 PM
Received an email this morning and all good now
Great service and thought there had to be a problem, great to hear he is back on deck
d2dave
18th June 2017, 07:20 PM
If you want Tim in a hurry just post in the "Trains" forum[smilebigeye]
drivesafe
18th June 2017, 08:48 PM
If you want Tim in a hurry just post in the "Trains" forum[smilebigeye]
Oh so true[wink11]
Bobc163
19th June 2017, 08:02 AM
Just spent day/ night at Peterborough :-D
VladTepes
19th June 2017, 10:39 AM
Spoke to Tim this morning,.....and what an unbelieveably nice person he is.
Pickles.
Are you sure it was Tim you spoke to?
The guy is a complete tosser ! [bigwhistle]
Seriously, what sort of person would let me drive their brand new TD6 Range Rover just to experience it?
Oh yeah, wait, Tim did.
Yeah he's OK ! [biggrin]
Glad to hear you are back on deck health wise Tim.
setmefree
4th December 2020, 11:20 AM
Hi all,
I'm considering investing in the basic D4-1S kit hoping that it serves my situation but wanted to check with those who know.
I drive my D4 maybe once a week, and would only be for like 30 minutes. Majority of the time it sits on my driveway and I tinker with it here and there.
To keep my battery topped up, I have it plugged to a basic $30 solar panel connected directly to the battery and chassis earth.
I'm planning to take the family to a drive-in movie over the next couple of weeks or so, knowing that I will need to be using the radio for a good couple of hours with engine not running (turning radio back on every 10-min) I'm worried I'll be asking people for a jump start at the end of the movie.
If I did have a D4-1S kit installed with a yellow top AUX, will the radio be taking power from the AUX or the main? I'm thinking if they batteries are both connected together, then I might survive the whole movie and can crank easily and drive off at the end.
Any thoughts?
Thanks in advance guys.
drivesafe
4th December 2020, 11:45 AM
Hi setmefree and first off, make sure you only turn the radio on with the ignition OFF. While you will still be using power, far less of the vehicle’s computers are on, thus reducing the amount being discharged from the battery or batteries.
Next, the biggest power draw you are likely to cause is when you open any of the doors. This activates quite a bit of hardware in your vehicle.
If you fit one of my D4-1S kits, you will have more power available, but you will also have a backup source to jump start from if you need to jump start.
With the kit fitted and if you use so much power from your batteries that you flatten your cranking battery, the isolator, in this type of situation, will work in reverse, by protecting your auxiliary battery, leaving it with 50% of it’s capacity unused.
If you did discharge your cranking battery that low that you needed a jump start, you would then only need a single jumper lead, connected from the auxiliary battery POSITIVE ( + ) Terminal to the cranking battery POSITIVE ( + ) Terminal.
Job done.
setmefree
4th December 2020, 07:50 PM
If you fit one of my D4-1S kits, you will have more power available, but you will also have a backup source to jump start from if you need to jump start.
.
Thank you DriveSafe for the tip on IGN OFF and Doors Closed. I'm also going to contact you to order a D4-1S and ask a couple of questions regarding battery selection. Thank you.
Craig M
8th April 2021, 11:23 AM
Hi all.
Just seeking some advise or info on the USI-160 & thought this might be a good thread to jump on.
I've had a Traxside system in my D4 working fine for the last year or so that I've had it, and from what I know, the previous owner had no issues since install, just not sure exactly when that was done.
Last Monday, I noticed the in-cab controller LED didn't light up at all, and I noticed that my fridge had stopped running.
Checked a couple of things out and found the isolator wasn't operating. Battery tested fine, and cables to and from the isolator all checked out fine too.
Any ideas of what to look for next, or time for a new isolator?
Thanks in advance!
Craig.
drivesafe
8th April 2021, 12:22 PM
Hi Craig, give me a call as your isolator, regardless of age, is still under warranty, but if you have a multi meter handy, we can do some on the spot testing, and see what might be wrong.
Homestar
8th April 2021, 12:25 PM
Try calling Tim from Traxide on 07 5569 2557 or an email to him - his phone line isn’t great at times since the NBN.
He’s a busy man but checks in here often so you might get a reply directly from him but he’s also great to talk to for this sort of thing and prides himself on customer service so he’ll do what he can to fix it.
If it’s beyond repair and an older unit worst case mention you’re on AULRO and you should get a discount on a new one.
Craig M
10th April 2021, 12:18 PM
Thanks guys.
Tim, I actually had another look when I had a bit more time and found that one of the nuts was a but loose. We disconnected both terminals, tightened and checked again and the controller lit up like normal.
Did a short drive again today and it seems to be all ok, battery charging and relays switching like before, so hopefully that's all it was!
Great to know about the warranty, that's awesome, but hopefully its all back to normal.
Great product mate!
drivesafe
10th April 2021, 02:28 PM
Hi again Craig and thanks for the followup. I like easy fixes like yours.
Loose connections are actually the most common cause of problems with DBS setups.
BTW, if you ( or anyone else ) decides you want to upgrade, a new version of the SC80 is now available, and repeat customers can get a 25% discount if they want to upgrade to the latest version of the SC80.
As of the 01/04/21, the SC80 is now supplied with a short white lead attached.
You can ignore this white lead and the SC80 will operate as usual, in SHARED mode.
As a result of many vehicles going unused for long periods, because of Covid lock-downs, I have upgraded the SC80 software and if a switch is connected to the white lead, and the other side of the switch is connected to earth, when the switch is off, the SC80 operates in the normal Shared mode, but if the switch is turned on, the new SC80 will operate in STORAGE mode.
This switch function is only available on the latest version of the SC80 and replaces the use of a switch being installed in the earth wire on the older versions of the SC80.
With the older versions, if you did not turn the switch on, the SC80 just did not work at all.
With the new version, if a switch is fitted to the white wire and you forget and leave the switch left on ( the SC80 is in STORAGE MODE ), the SC80 will shut down shortly after you turn your motor off, but will now turn back on shortly after you start your motor again.
Also, if the switch is left on ( the SC80 is in STORAGE MODE ), and you connect a solar panel to either battery ( or a battery charger ) the SC80 will automatically turn on and charge both batteries.
This again was something that could not be done where a switch was put in the older SC80s earth wire.
NOTE the additional switch is not supplied because you may decide to buy one that suits your dash and run a wire from the dash mounted switch to the SC80s white wire.
sigul
16th April 2021, 09:09 PM
Hi,
I've got a 2008 D3 Petrol V6 which is pretty much stock but we still find it very capable :) When we go camping we have a battery box with a 140Ah AGM battery that runs the fridge and lights fro 3-4 days and we can top it up with a solar panel. The battery box is charged at home before we leave.
I'm now planning and preparing for a trip to Cape York in September and I am looking for the best way to charge my battery box in the rear while driving and also be able to connect the solar panel when we have the chance.
What Traxide setup would be best for something like this where I don't have an auxiliary battery in the front? Can I run a positive to the rear and mount a standard SC-80 or DT90 in the rear with an Anderson plug to connect the battery box? If so, what cable thickness should I go for?
Alternatively should it be mounted in the engine bay with cables run from the isolator to the rear for charging?
Or would a regular DC charger be the best option as I don't have an extra battery mounted in the car permanently?
Thank you for any recommendations and insight.
Regards
Sindre
drivesafe
17th April 2021, 12:19 AM
Hi Sindre, I now have an SC80 with 50 amp Anderson plugs fitted.
This new uint is specifically designed to be fitted between the power supply cable coming from the cranking battery and the battery box.
This setup allows you to have all the benefit of the SC80 while driving, but you can remove the SC80 when you remove the battery box.
This also makes it much easier to move the battery box from one vehicle to another.
You will still need to run 6B&S ( 13.5mm2 ) cable from the cranking battery and mount a fuse or circuit breaker in the positive cable, close to the cranking battery.
sigul
17th April 2021, 09:36 PM
Hi Sindre, I now have an SC80 with 50 amp Anderson plugs fitted.
This new uint is specifically designed to be fitted between the power supply cable coming from the cranking battery and the battery box.
This setup allows you to have all the benefit of the SC80 while driving, but you can remove the SC80 when you remove the battery box.
This also makes it much easier to move the battery box from one vehicle to another.
You will still need to run 6B&S ( 13.5mm2 ) cable from the cranking battery and mount a fuse or circuit breaker in the positive cable, close to the cranking battery.
Thank you, that sounds like a good option. Are they available on the website yet?
As I understand, I would also be able to mount it as a regular SC80 in the future if I want to have a permanently installed aux battery in the front?
Compared to USI-160, would that isolator give any real benefits when not using winch or needing the jump starting function?
Regards
Sindre
drivesafe
18th April 2021, 08:40 AM
Hi again Sindre, I am in the process of upgrading my website and once that is done, the new SC80, the SC80-AP, plus a couple of other new products, including a new 24v SC80, will be on my site.
You can easily set the SC80-AP up in the engine bay if you change your system around.
PLEASE NOTE, most of my products will be increasing in price when I finish upgrading my website but for now, I can supply the SC80-AP for $175, including postage, for AULRO members.
As for comparing the SC80 with a USI-160. unless you are fitting an electric winch, there is no advantage to installing the USI-160, and you will need to fit an auxiliary battery under the bonnet, and not use your battery box, as the cable distance to the rear defeats the ability for linking batteries for winching.
rick130
18th April 2021, 08:50 AM
[FONT=&]As for comparing the SC80 with a USI-160. unless you are fitting an electric winch, there is no advantage to installing the USI-160, and you will need to fit an auxiliary battery under the bonnet, and not use your battery box, as the cable distance to the rear defeats the ability for linking batteries for winching.
Just butting in here Tim, I really liked the ability to jump the starter from the second battery in the Defender with the USI160.
I need to get a new isolator for the Disco and was leaning that way again, even though I don't have a winch on the Disco.
Thoughts?
drivesafe
18th April 2021, 09:05 AM
Hi Rick, I like making money and I am quite happy to sell you a USI-160, but I also like to supply customers with the system that best meets their specific needs.
In most cases, the SC80 or DT90 usually does a better job, if there is no winch involved.
I find most people, without winches, want to buy the USI-160, incase they need to jump start at some time.
When both batteries are under the bonnet, the USI-160 will do the job MOST OF THE TIME.
But so will a single jumper lead, connected positive ( + ) battery terminal to positive ( + ) battery terminal. The negative ( - ) terminals are already connected.
Be aware, if the cranking battery is flat, you should be able to jump start off the other battery.
BUT, if the cranking battery has dropped a cell, you will need to jump start from another vehicle, with its motor running.
So the ability to jump start may not be that advantageous when compared with the advantages the SC80 and DT90 offer over the USI-160.
sigul
18th April 2021, 03:50 PM
Hi again Sindre, I am in the process of upgrading my website and once that is done, the new SC80, the SC80-AP, plus a couple of other new products, including a new 24v SC80, will be on my site.
You can easily set the SC80-AP up in the engine bay if you change your system around.
PLEASE NOTE, most of my products will be increasing in price when I finish upgrading my website but for now, I can supply the SC80-AP for $175, including postage, for AULRO members.
As for comparing the SC80 with a USI-160. unless you are fitting an electric winch, there is no advantage to installing the USI-160, and you will need to fit an auxiliary battery under the bonnet, and not use your battery box, as the cable distance to the rear defeats the ability for linking batteries for winching.
Great, I'll send you an email for the order.
I always carry a lithium starter just in case so I'm covered for starting problems :)
Sindre
drivesafe
18th April 2021, 05:10 PM
Hi Sigul, my website is not an E-commerce site so just phone me when you are ready to place your order and I'll have it in the mail to you.
theh33d
4th October 2021, 10:14 PM
Hi again Sindre, I am in the process of upgrading my website and once that is done, the new SC80, the SC80-AP, plus a couple of other new products, including a new 24v SC80, will be on my site.
You can easily set the SC80-AP up in the engine bay if you change your system around.
PLEASE NOTE, most of my products will be increasing in price when I finish upgrading my website but for now, I can supply the SC80-AP for $175, including postage, for AULRO members.
As for comparing the SC80 with a USI-160. unless you are fitting an electric winch, there is no advantage to installing the USI-160, and you will need to fit an auxiliary battery under the bonnet, and not use your battery box, as the cable distance to the rear defeats the ability for linking batteries for winching.
Hello Drivesafe
Sorry for jumping in here....
Is the SC80-AP still available at $175 as I believe this is the system I require for my current fit out. I have the Baintech battery box (100ah) and would require a Blue Anderson plug fitted as the is the power input (car) would it be possible to have this made up to suit my requirements?
drivesafe
5th October 2021, 05:02 AM
Is the SC80-AP still available at $175 as I believe this is the system I require for my current fit out. I have the Baintech battery box (100ah) and would require a Blue Anderson plug fitted as the is the power input (car) would it be possible to have this made up to suit my requirements?
HI and unless there have been some changes, you use the Grey Anderson plug on that battery box, and as such, the standard SC80-AP is all you need.
The SC80-AP is now an off-the-shelf product, I just have not had time to upgrade my web site and until I upgrade my website, the price is still $175, plus postage.
theh33d
5th October 2021, 11:32 PM
HI and unless there have been some changes, you use the Grey Anderson plug on that battery box, and as such, the standard SC80-AP is all you need.
The SC80-AP is now an off-the-shelf product, I just have not had time to upgrade my web site and until I upgrade my website, the price is still $175, plus postage.
Hello
Thanks for getting in touch.
The Baintech Powertop Box utilises a Blue Anderson plug as the power supply from a vehicle.
If you could change the Grey Anderson plug on the SC80 - AP to suit my requirements this would be most appreciated.
Can you advise what comes with the SC80-AP kit, is there cable lengths to suit a Discovery 3 from engine bay to boot area?
If you can please advise how I can place an order for this item, plus shipping costs to Western Australia.
Baintech Box Info:
https://baintech.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/Baintech-110Ah-PowerTop-2020-user-manual.pdf
RHS58
6th October 2021, 06:54 AM
Not too hard to swap one colour Anderson plug for another.
Alternatively make up an adaptor, or get one off EBay for $15.
drivesafe
6th October 2021, 01:01 PM
Hi again theh33d, the Grey plug is the correct one you connect the SC80 to.
As RHS58 posted, if you want to use the BLUE Anderson plug, you can buy one off fleybay ( I do not carry the Blue plugs ) but you can save you money as the Grey Anderson plug is the plug other customers have use.
If you decide you want to place an order, just phone me.
theh33d
6th October 2021, 08:00 PM
Thanks Drivesafe
I'll give you a call tomorrow to place an order and I'll grab the Anderson plug needed and place it on.
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