Puma Ignition Barrel Problem

[D9Oh..]

Hey Forum, having a bit of fun with my 2012 2.2 Puma 90. Or not...

The ignition barrel is not rotating past the 1st mark, its almost getting to the second mark, where the dash warning lights fire up, etc, but not allowing the vehicle to go in to start, position 3, or firing the starter motor. The dash warning lights, coil lights etc, are not coming on.

Now the forum says that the brass pins and tumblers in the ignition barrel can stick, so I have removed the plastic shroud on the steering column, squirted a bunch of CRC into the barrel and wiggled the key, rotated the barrel, repeated, etc,etc. Some gunk came out but in general the barrel is free to rotate past the first mark and just not engaging the second.

I have looked at all power sources and fuses, all looks OK. Recently I have shifted the electrics and fuses from under the drivers seat into an ExBox, but since then I have driven the vehicle more than 2 dozen times and probably over 200km. I have also recently installed a new ECU and flashed the BAS 170 map, but again, I have driven the car since then a couple of times an it all started OK. In position 1 on the ignition I can turn on the ventilation fan, radio, running lights, etc and also the central locking is all working fine. So the system seems to be alive electrically.

I noticed the key and ignition was sticky for the last 6 months or so and therefore I am thinking its a mechanical problem with the barrel, the tumblers or the switch behind the barrel.

My question is, does anyone know of an electrical interlock between the ignition barrel that would prevent it rotating to the second mark, I wouldnt think so, but you never know.

Any guidance appreciated, thanks team

[skidrov]

I don't think there's an electrical interlock. BUT, the ignition switches at the end of the barrel assembly do $hit themselves. A guess based on no deep experience of exactly how they die: I s'pose it could be possible the internals of your ignition switch have had a melt-down and so won't rotate?

So, I would try removing the ignition switch (not too bad a job, I posted a sequence in Puma starting issues, couple of them? (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/249323-puma-starting-issues-couple-them-post2674211.html#post2674211) ) - and see if you can then turn the key with the switch out of the way.

If you can turn the key, you replace the switch - instructions in the above link.

If not, my best guess is that your key/barrel assembly have $hit themselves (this happens, I understand/as you've researched, I think), and you'll need to replace the key/barrel. If it's this one, I have no experience in doing this - sorry. Looks like a messy job, not clear how you get to the shear bolts in a Puma (looks to me like the shelf under the lock is in the way). Also, you'll need to involve a locksmith so you don't end up with an additional key, I think? Yep, I'm posting more problems than solutions, will need others to advise.

Best o' lock. Err luck.

[D9Oh..]

Thanks skidrov for the ideas I will try that in the morning. On the other end of the lock barrel is a circular plastic ring with 2 small wires. It goes around the barrel near the key entry and is hidden under the steering column shroud. Does any one have an idea of what this plastic collar is for?

[remer]

That ring is the coil, it detects the immobiliser chip in the head of your key.
Theres no interlock that will prevent the key turning.
You most likley have a broken wafer in the lock or a faulty switch on the rear of the ignition.
Id chat to your local locksmith . . .

Regards

Tristan the Locksmith

[D9Oh..]

Update on this one,

I checked to make sure I was getting 12v to the back of the ignition switch, yep, all OK

So dropped the switch off the back of the barrel and still couldn't rotate the key into the second position. But now with the use of a flat bladed screwdriver direct into the switch I can start and stop the car. Feel like a crim...

I took another look at those special anti-tamper bolts holding the lock barrel onto the steering column and decided that is a job for a real mechanic, I will try and get the barrel refurbished and re-coded to the existing keys so I don't have to change those. I might also change out the switch at the same time, even though it works, as many people on this forum have had trouble with the switch at some stage.

Defenders are just full of surprises.