View Full Version : 4.6 head gaskets and cam / lifters
mpwdhc
20th June 2017, 08:54 AM
So I pulled the left head off Rupie to find a chunk of gasket missing between a cylinder and valley. Liners seems to be sitting where they should.
Pulled off the other head and inspected the cam, which has a few slightly worn lobes.
I have asked around a bit and the unanimous verdict is to assemble with studs, but the jury is out on type of head gasket or cam.
There seems to be plenty of reasonably priced Elring gaskets around, which I've used in many European cars without issue, making them seem a natural choice. A specialist say they are too hard and the torque required to get a seal contributes to the cracked block problem. I can certainly see this being the case with bolts. What have people here had good luck with? I don't want to spend several hundred dollars on MLS gaskets.
As for the cam - there seems to be much less choice than in the 3.5 days. Power was adequate as it was (but it had become very thirsty by the end), and I'm sure with fresh gaskets (it had been blowing a long time, as it turns out) and cam it'll be much better than before. Longevity is more of an issue - I see many cams being sold under the correct part number for prices which seem to be too good to be true - 50 quid or so. They are described as being OEM but no manufacturer is listed. Does anyone here have any feedback about them? Delphi lifters?
Thanks!
Davide
GMichaelHall
20th June 2017, 10:50 AM
So I pulled the left head off Rupie to find a chunk of gasket missing between a cylinder and valley. Liners seems to be sitting where they should.
Pulled off the other head and inspected the cam, which has a few slightly worn lobes.
I have asked around a bit and the unanimous verdict is to assemble with studs, but the jury is out on type of head gasket or cam.
There seems to be plenty of reasonably priced Elring gaskets around, which I've used in many European cars without issue, making them seem a natural choice. A specialist say they are too hard and the torque required to get a seal contributes to the cracked block problem. I can certainly see this being the case with bolts. What have people here had good luck with? I don't want to spend several hundred dollars on MLS gaskets.
As for the cam - there seems to be much less choice than in the 3.5 days. Power was adequate as it was (but it had become very thirsty by the end), and I'm sure with fresh gaskets (it had been blowing a long time, as it turns out) and cam it'll be much better than before. Longevity is more of an issue - I see many cams being sold under the correct part number for prices which seem to be too good to be true - 50 quid or so. They are described as being OEM but no manufacturer is listed. Does anyone here have any feedback about them? Delphi lifters?
Thanks!
Davide
Hi Davide
I recently went through the head gasket search and found overwhelming appreciation for the DuraPro brand gaskets ($400) and ARP head bolts. They compress better and are well suited to the [P38 4.6l] engine design according to P38 mechanics I trust and respect for their appreciation and respect for the truck itself. Not all RR mechanics are created equally and to me, a mechanic's opinion that is passionate about the particular model goes a very long way in helping to make decisions. The Dura Pro cost is close to double that of the Erling gaskets , which also do not seem like a particularly bad choice, but I went with the Dura Pro and made the quality and design of the gaskets my priority over cost efficiency. If cost is the centre most concern, than I suppose the Erling are the best choice for you. Whatever you decide, enjoy your rebuild project, kind regards
TheTree
20th June 2017, 12:44 PM
Hi
ARP stud kit and Cometic MLS gasket all the way ;)
More reading here
Head gaskets (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/221996-head-gaskets.html)
As for the Cam I seem to remember Crow made some or if you want to go OS UK has lots of choice
Products - Piper Cams - Europe’s leading manufacturer of performance camshafts (http://www.pipercams.co.uk/pipercams/www/product_browse.php'type=&manufacturer=20)
ERR 3720 Camshaft (https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/err-3720-camshaft-c2x20634329)
Steve
p38arover
20th June 2017, 02:07 PM
I fitted ARP studs and Cometic MLS gaskets. The cam was a modified RRC cam from Davis Performance Landys.
i don't know how it's going as I sold the car 18 months ago.
Pedro_The_Swift
20th June 2017, 06:12 PM
studs and mls,, and 90lb,,
glue the **** out of the valley gasket,,
Kent H180 cam,, oh wait,, thats a thor number--
TheTree
21st June 2017, 08:41 AM
studs and mls,, and 90lb,,
glue the **** out of the valley gasket,,
Kent H180 cam,, oh wait,, thats a thor number--
Cams are the same it seems that one fits everything from a 3.5 to a 5.0 L [bigsmile]
Kent Cams - Product - Camshaft / Camshaft / H180 (http://www.kentcams.com/product-details/206/Camshaft/Camshaft/H180-Sports-Torque/)
Steve
mpwdhc
21st June 2017, 10:07 AM
Hi and thanks to everyone. I'm surprised by the mention of DuraPro actually... I presumed it was just a cheap Aussie aftermarket thing.
I'm a mechanic, and this is my own car. I bought it on a whim and am surprised how much I've been taken by it - seems a common theme with these! I've had a long line of Rovers, but never a LR/RR and never a V8 beyond a 3.5 - the 4.6 seems a little more delicate. Cost wise, its likely the engine will be apart again, so I don't want to spend huge money on gaskets. The symptom was compression leakage on the left bank. Sadly removing the right head revealed a small crack in a liner. As there were no related symptoms, I'm going to put it together and hope it lasts another year (10,000km) while I source and rebuild another block. My workshop was destroyed in a fire some months back so for the moment I have quite limited tools and equipment, but need the car back on the road.
Steve, do you have any experience with the ERRxxxx cams? A number of suppliers sell them for a price which seems too good to be true. Just worried they might be made of butter.
Hi Davide
I recently went through the head gasket search and found overwhelming appreciation for the DuraPro brand gaskets ($400) and ARP head bolts. They compress better and are well suited to the [P38 4.6l] engine design according to P38 mechanics I trust and respect for their appreciation and respect for the truck itself. Not all RR mechanics are created equally and to me, a mechanic's opinion that is passionate about the particular model goes a very long way in helping to make decisions. The Dura Pro cost is close to double that of the Erling gaskets , which also do not seem like a particularly bad choice, but I went with the Dura Pro and made the quality and design of the gaskets my priority over cost efficiency. If cost is the centre most concern, than I suppose the Erling are the best choice for you. Whatever you decide, enjoy your rebuild project, kind regards
TheTree
21st June 2017, 11:07 AM
Hi and thanks to everyone. I'm surprised by the mention of DuraPro actually... I presumed it was just a cheap Aussie aftermarket thing.
I'm a mechanic, and this is my own car. I bought it on a whim and am surprised how much I've been taken by it - seems a common theme with these! I've had a long line of Rovers, but never a LR/RR and never a V8 beyond a 3.5 - the 4.6 seems a little more delicate. Cost wise, its likely the engine will be apart again, so I don't want to spend huge money on gaskets. The symptom was compression leakage on the left bank. Sadly removing the right head revealed a small crack in a liner. As there were no related symptoms, I'm going to put it together and hope it lasts another year (10,000km) while I source and rebuild another block. My workshop was destroyed in a fire some months back so for the moment I have quite limited tools and equipment, but need the car back on the road.
Steve, do you have any experience with the ERRxxxx cams? A number of suppliers sell them for a price which seems too good to be true. Just worried they might be made of butter.
Mate
I had a quick look and the only ERRxxxx ones I could see were britpart .. otherwise known as ****part !
If you need to get the car back on the road then one of those should last at least 10,000 KM [biggrin]
I would not put a britpart one in my rebuilt engine however
Good luck
Steve
Pedro_The_Swift
21st June 2017, 12:06 PM
I wouldnt spend more than a set of gaskets on a 4.6 rebuild unless you top hat it,,
it will just end in tears otherwise,,
TheTree
21st June 2017, 02:50 PM
If the existing cam is usable, maybe just stick with that until the full rebuild?
Steve
mpwdhc
21st June 2017, 05:10 PM
As I feared!
Yep, will definitely go the top hat liner route, but its for this reason I have to get it on the road now - can't do the liners at this point in time.
I'd planned to measure lift at all the lifters to ascertain cam wear - I did about two and stopped when I noticed one lobe on the blown gasket cylinder had lost about 2mm. I have seen much worse but upon purchase I was convinced the noise was a lifter (though it turns out it was likely the compression leakage). It'd suck to put the heads on and find the lifter was actually noisy.
Mate
I had a quick look and the only ERRxxxx ones I could see were britpart .. otherwise known as ****part !
If you need to get the car back on the road then one of those should last at least 10,000 KM [biggrin]
I would not put a britpart one in my rebuilt engine however
Good luck
Steve
TheTree
21st June 2017, 06:43 PM
As I feared!
Yep, will definitely go the top hat liner route, but its for this reason I have to get it on the road now - can't do the liners at this point in time.
I'd planned to measure lift at all the lifters to ascertain cam wear - I did about two and stopped when I noticed one lobe on the blown gasket cylinder had lost about 2mm. I have seen much worse but upon purchase I was convinced the noise was a lifter (though it turns out it was likely the compression leakage). It'd suck to put the heads on and find the lifter was actually noisy.
Mate
The hydraulic lifters in these beasts have pretty wide tolerances and usually rattle a little until they get their act together. Once you get the heads back on there is a procedure for checking the lifter preload. You can put shims in the rocker train if it needs adjusting
Steve
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