2007+ Immobiliser strikes yet again.

[Rick Fischer]

Hiyas.

Went to shop, SVX not locked, 5mins, return, start...........nup! All the lights are on, but nobody's home. Wouldn't crank! second time in less than 12 months. Changed fob battery , still not go. RACQ truck and SVX paraded through the streets :0(

SVX currently sitting in street with Module disconnected and powerless, hoping it will drain out overnight and lose any recollections. Will reconnct in morning and see what happens.


I don't know how many others out there have been whacked by the immobiliser module, but is not good. The "what ifs" go on and on; up in the Cape, middle of Great Victoria .......... , stuck on Anne Bedell..........$3000+ pick up from Simpson.

Did write to JLRA after last failure. Not a whimper!

We need a bypass for Deffie's immobiliser system!

Has someone developed/found one?

Otherwise, how do we get JLRA to give us one??? Completely bypass the immobiliser module permanently!

Cheers all

RF

[tact]

Hiyas.

Went to shop, SVX not locked, 5mins, return, start...........nup! All the lights are on, but nobody's home. Wouldn't crank! second time in less than 12 months. Changed fob battery , still not go. RACQ truck and SVX paraded through the streets :0(

SVX currently sitting in street with Module disconnected and powerless, hoping it will drain out overnight and lose any recollections. Will reconnct in morning and see what happens.


I don't know how many others out there have been whacked by the immobiliser module, but is not good. The "what ifs" go on and on; up in the Cape, middle of Great Victoria .......... , stuck on Anne Bedell..........$3000+ pick up from Simpson.

Did write to JLRA after last failure. Not a whimper!

We need a bypass for Deffie's immobiliser system!

Has someone developed/found one?

Otherwise, how do we get JLRA to give us one??? Completely bypass the immobiliser module permanently!

Cheers all

RF

Does the EKA process work in this situation? I had a very long struggle with LR to get the EKA for my vehicle. My fear like yours - dont want to be stuck immobilised deep in the Malaysian jungles.

[dazzler]

Hiyas.

Went to shop, SVX not locked, 5mins, return, start...........nup! All the lights are on, but nobody's home. Wouldn't crank! second time in less than 12 months. Changed fob battery , still not go. RACQ truck and SVX paraded through the streets :0(

SVX currently sitting in street with Module disconnected and powerless, hoping it will drain out overnight and lose any recollections. Will reconnct in morning and see what happens.


I don't know how many others out there have been whacked by the immobiliser module, but is not good. The "what ifs" go on and on; up in the Cape, middle of Great Victoria .......... , stuck on Anne Bedell..........$3000+ pick up from Simpson.

Did write to JLRA after last failure. Not a whimper!

We need a bypass for Deffie's immobiliser system!

Has someone developed/found one?

Otherwise, how do we get JLRA to give us one??? Completely bypass the immobiliser module permanently!

Cheers all

RF

Have you tried this?

Immobiliser Removal TD4 Puma 2.4 – BAS Remaps, Powering the Landrover tuning world! (https://secure.bellautoservices.co.uk/store/immobiliser-removal-td4-puma-2-4/)

[tact]

We need a bypass for Deffie's immobiliser system!

Has someone developed/found one?



As a followup to my EKA suggestion/question, if I am not mistaken one of the featured of the Nanocom Evo is ability to selectively turn off immobiliser. I bought one (Nanocom Evo) for this purpose since LR were taking so long to get me my EKA code....

Unfortunately the Nanocom Evo never worked on my vehicle, not even once. There is apparently some assembly plants outside of the UK don't program the vehicle VIN properly into the ECUs and this causes the Nanocom to fail to connect. (So I have one Nanocom Evo - surplus to requirements)

[Rick Fischer]

Does the EKA process work in this situation? I had a very long struggle with LR to get the EKA for my vehicle. My fear like yours - dont want to be stuck immobilised deep in the Malaysian jungles.


Nope! Immobiliser doesn't even recognise that there is a key fob. :0( JLRA don't want to know. Only thing that will change their mind is ACCC, a Tort and Judge, or a Coroner, I'd reckon!

So, if someone from JLRA monitors these pages - watch out!

Cheers

RF

[Rick Fischer]

Have you tried this?

Immobiliser Removal TD4 Puma 2.4 – BAS Remaps, Powering the Landrover tuning world! (https://secure.bellautoservices.co.uk/store/immobiliser-removal-td4-puma-2-4/)

Would like to, but UKP400 plus probably UKP100 freight each way runs out to around Aus$ 1200+, and no vehicle for weeks. Am getting module changed out.

I'll add more later next week. :0)

Cheers

RF

[Rick Fischer]

did forget to add.

Disconnected Immobiliser left overnight. Reconnected next morning. Fired up straight away! Took it a while to recognise second key fob and lock unlock with it.

Will also add, unless you are in the habit of carrying the appropriate 6 point screwdriver, I would recommend removing those screws from the RH speaker and replacing them with Philips, for Leatherman or similar or just a Philips Screwdriver.

Cheers

RF

[4wheeler]

Rick,
I have had instances of both my previous 2007 Defender and my 2013 Defender which would not start. A number of times it has been in service stations and once in a country town. It was actually the country town incident which made me feel that in my case the failure to start is relater to RF (radio frequency) interference. I will explain why.

One instance with my 2013 Defender purchased with 8000km on it was at a service station when I went to fill it the first time driving back from Sydney to Melbourne. Stopped, filled up, turned the key and the Defender tried to start but didn't. Turned the key again and even less action from the starter. Third time nothing at all. I fiddled around for about 5 minutes looking for problems, found nothing then tried again and it started reluctantly enough to move it from the bowser. Switched it off again and it would not restart again. A few attempts and it started. Moved it further away and started again and did not have any further problems for 10,000km.

At a country town at night I stopped the vehicle, and then tried to lock it and couldn't. Fiddled around and it eventually locked. Then I tried opening it and it would not unlock. I was not impressed at this stage. At this point I noticed a great big communications tower just out of site hidden by trees but close by. At this point I thought that maybe interference is the problem. I then held the key fob right next to the A pillar near the immobiliser aerial and hey presto, everything worked again. If I moved the fob away from the pillar, I could not open or close the vehicle. So I concluded interference was the problem. After opening the vehicle again, I started the vehicle, moved it away from the tower and had no further problems.

I was up in Cairns just recently and noticed the immobiliser light blink once just as I drove into another fuel station. I immediately thought that It might not start once stopped. I filled up, tried to restart and the Defender would not start - nothing. It tried it again and it did start. I went back to the service station a few times and it started each time. So around 3timesin 40,000km the vehicle has not started first turn.

I have noticed that occasionally when driving, the immobiliser light blinks. Often it is in the same area of a particular road and only ever seems to happen in the city/built up areas and not on the open road. So in my case, I feel there is something actually interfering with the signal to/from the immobiliser. The fact that others have experienced problems in service stations tends to indicate an interference issue although it could be just a random event when stopping.

If it does it again I will place the key fob next to the immobiliser module and see it starts. Like you, I don't want to be stuck in the middle of nowhere.

It would be interesting to see if moving your vehicle away from an area where it failed to start would get it going or by holding the key fob next to the immobiliser module aerial would get it started although maybe you have already tried this.

I have emergency key access code which I requested from Land Rover just in case and had no problem getting it. I'll have to try it one day to see if it works!

Good luck with it.

Regards,
4wheeler

[Rick Fischer]

Thanks for that info. My D2 used to do exactly as you describe. Culprit is/was RF, mainly from Chemists back to base alarms even when disarmed. got to the point at my local shopping centre where as soon as I stopped I would lock the car. If the lock failed I would still have time to restart and move before the D2's immobiliser armed. So, I've had lots of experience with the sort of problem you have described. Unfortunately not that easy.

With my SVX, it wouldn't start, period. Even after returning home on the back of a truck. (I tell everyone it was the black JEEP around the corner[wink11]) First event took me 4 days of on and off trouble shooting with and without Bearmach to work out what was going on. Even then it was by accident. I'd left the module unplugged from previous day and was getting him ready to go on back of truck to Dealer, and was putting everything back the way it was. Soon as I plugged the the module back in security LED came back on, and everything worked!

The indicator that the module has "gone away" is the security LED in the bottom of the tacho is dead. Interestingly this event is just over 12 months from last event.

Cheers

Rick F

[knares]

hi guys
frightening stuff this, for me it would be nice to have a photo of the module so i know what it is and where it is
thanks

[4wheeler]

Thanks for that info. My D2 used to do exactly as you describe. Culprit is/was RF, mainly from Chemists back to base alarms even when disarmed. got to the point at my local shopping centre where as soon as I stopped I would lock the car. If the lock failed I would still have time to restart and move before the D2's immobiliser armed. So, I've had lots of experience with the sort of problem you have described. Unfortunately not that easy.

With my SVX, it wouldn't start, period. Even after returning home on the back of a truck. (I tell everyone it was the black JEEP around the corner[wink11]) First event took me 4 days of on and off trouble shooting with and without Bearmach to work out what was going on. Even then it was by accident. I'd left the module unplugged from previous day and was getting him ready to go on back of truck to Dealer, and was putting everything back the way it was. Soon as I plugged the the module back in security LED came back on, and everything worked!

The indicator that the module has "gone away" is the security LED in the bottom of the tacho is dead. Interestingly this event is just over 12 months from last event.

Cheers

Rick F

Thanks for the further information. That is the trouble when the electronics on these and any other modern vehicle decide to go AWOL.

Regards,
4wheeler

[Rick Fischer]

hi guys
frightening stuff this, for me it would be nice to have a photo of the module so i know what it is and where it is
thanks

Immobiliser module is in the RH dash. Drop the RH speaker unit out and shine a torch onto the firewall. There it be, with two plugs with lotsa wires coming from the bottom. Can't miss it. Mine is green and only couple of inches square. Suppose there is a chip inside and it is as big as it is to accept the plugs. :0)

Remember to change out the six point screws for philips head

Cheers

RF

[Rick Fischer]

Thanks for the further information. That is the trouble when the electronics on these and any other modern vehicle decide to go AWOL.

Regards,
4wheeler

Yep, only needs a wee voltage spike from somewhere, or an eddy current and away they go. :thumbsdown:

[Rick Fischer]

So ... Back again, took me a while to get here, too much other stuff plus Solihull, JLRA problem.

Anyway, day before I was due to get the immobiliser control box swapped out the dealer called to advise me that the YWC500640 10AS -433Mhz green box was no longer available. However, I could have a whole new security system for around $2500, and it came with new harnesses and a few control boxes. Of course I would have to pay labour on top. I demurred!

Now there is a thing, do the "runouts" have a fob or a D2 or D3 sort of key system with remote in the key?

Getting back to subject. Managed to find a used green box manufactured 12 weeks before mine. Thought was to have a spare "keyed" to my spare fob. [smilebigeye] Then able to do a plug and play, drive away.

Mmmmm. Using trusty Bearmach did get spare fob to operate door locks etc, engine to crank and fire, (but only fuel in lines) It would appear the ECU would not allow the engine to run . [bawl]

So now there is a question - Does the ECU need to be told that it has a new "immobilizer/de-immobiliser" A la D2s and later which need to be told serial/PN codes for new bits.?? If so, how does one advise the TD4/Fomoco ECU??

Cheers

Rick F

[Rick Fischer]

Question:

Where does the Deffie store it's version of the the EKA. Is it in the security system or is it in the fomoco ECU? As I recall the D2s was deeply buried in the engine computer. Deffie?

Cheers

Rick F

[tact]

[...]
Anyway, day before I was due to get the immobiliser control box swapped out the dealer called to advise me that the YWC500640 10AS -433Mhz green box was no longer available. However, I could have a whole new security system for around $2500, and it came with new harnesses and a few control boxes. Of course I would have to pay labour on top. I demurred!

Now there is a thing, do the "runouts" have a fob or a D2 or D3 sort of key system with remote in the key?
[...]
So now there is a question - Does the ECU need to be told that it has a new "immobilizer/de-immobiliser" A la D2s and later which need to be told serial/PN codes for new bits.?? If so, how does one advise the TD4/Fomoco ECU??

Cheers

Rick F

My journey to get an EKA code out of Land Rover Malaysia ended with them saying similar to above about the green box being now unavailable, and need a whole new security system. (New security module, harnesses, and 2 new key fobs that look nothing like the originals and quite nicely can lock/unlock from a much greater distance.)

Fortunately my service manager must have had a fighting heart and the security system transplant was all FOC, done under warranty, and came with a known EKA which was communicated nicely to me!

Regards telling the ECU that there is a new security module.... I think its actually the other way round. The various control units, like engine ECU and instrument controller, etc, need to announce themselves and be recognised by the Security module. (This comment coming from experience/observation during the installation of a new ECU as part of installing BAS tune - there is a process to get the security module to accept the new engine ECU - if I remember correctly).

As it took about a year to get an EKA code for my vehicle from Land Rover (eventually delivered via the complete security system replacement), and was thinking that I'd never get said EKA code.... I purchased a Nanocom EVO because the sales pitch indicates one can interrogate the security ECU to extract the EKA code, and more - can turn off the immobiliser.
(I figured that if I remembered to turn off the immobiliser before going into deep jungles - I'd be safe).

Sadly the Nanocom EVO I bought has never managed to connect to my car at all and so (to date) a waste of my time and money. Blackbox are still (more than a year later) working on a solution to that. Maybe someday I will have a working Nanocom EVO, or will sell it!

[DazzaTD5]

I havent read through all the posts, I stopped at seeing a 400 pound stirling to disable immobiliser....

On a Defender/Discovery 2 TD5 and Defender 2.4lt TDCi (puma) the imobiliser can be simply disabled using the ye ol T4 diagnostic tool.
I do this for regular customers for nix.

The 2.2lt has a different imobiliser software and the T4 wont work, and as yet I havent looked to see if the ford tool will do it.

Regards
Daz

[DazzaTD5]

message to a few (saves me repeating it)

No I didnt say "td4"..... The Land Rover T4 was the official diagnostic tool back in the day, the Defender TD5 model and Defender 2.4lt TDCi (puma) model use the same imobiliser software and can be accessed using the Land Rover T4, apart from the ford tool I dont use any of the others so I dont know what they can and cant do. Once configured, the "OK" signal goes straight to the engine ecu and there is no handshake with the transponder, the doors lock/unlock as per normal using the Plip.

Regards
Daz

[ezyrama]

Never had this problem rear its ugly head on my 2.2ltr , but it would be a bit comforting to know if and when we are in the middle of BF nowhere it wouldn't be a problem.
One thing that does seem to happen with mine, is once or twice a month, the doors lock when I remove the key from he ignition and pull on the door handle.
Happened again 2 days ago.
Regards Ian

[Maxximus]

The battery went flat after two weeks in my garage and the plip remote did not work. I got into the car by turning the key 4 times in the driver's door and then put the battery on charge. Had the car locksmith over with all his electronic readers including nancom to no avail. Got the EKA from the local dealer and the car would not accept it.

Did some research online found lots of interesting info, esp here Land Rover 10AS Repair and Programming (https://www.technozen-electronics.co.uk/land-rover-10as-alarm-ecu-services/) (whom I emailed and they gave me the answer below). Mine has the blackbox 10as as opposed to the green box (pre 2012) therefore off to the local stealer in Port Macquarie.

Apart from the answer below, I have had similar answers from a mob in Auckland NZ and a few businesses here in Australia.

email from Technozen Electrics.

Hi Michael,
Thanks for your email.


Unfortunately nothing has changed regarding the later black module, it still isn't something I repair purely because there is no
affordable diagnostic tool for it.


Land Rover have issued a retro-fit kit to replace this module but it costs about £600 here in the UK and requires replacement of
wiring looms etc.
The only other viable option would be to source one of the earlier modules fitted to the TDCi engined vehicles from 2007-2012.
This would be a version of the original 10AS module and is plug compatible with the later black module, you would need to
source one with the part number YWC106280 or YWC500640.

Would appreciate any input from those with the same problem and if they had a workable solution

[Maxximus]

My journey to get an EKA code out of Land Rover Malaysia ended with them saying similar to above about the green box being now unavailable, and need a whole new security system. (New security module, harnesses, and 2 new key fobs that look nothing like the originals and quite nicely can lock/unlock from a much greater distance.)

Fortunately my service manager must have had a fighting heart and the security system transplant was all FOC, done under warranty, and came with a known EKA which was communicated nicely to me!

Regards telling the ECU that there is a new security module.... I think its actually the other way round. The various control units, like engine ECU and instrument controller, etc, need to announce themselves and be recognised by the Security module. (This comment coming from experience/observation during the installation of a new ECU as part of installing BAS tune - there is a process to get the security module to accept the new engine ECU - if I remember correctly).

As it took about a year to get an EKA code for my vehicle from Land Rover (eventually delivered via the complete security system replacement), and was thinking that I'd never get said EKA code.... I purchased a Nanocom EVO because the sales pitch indicates one can interrogate the security ECU to extract the EKA code, and more - can turn off the immobiliser.
(I figured that if I remembered to turn off the immobiliser before going into deep jungles - I'd be safe).

Sadly the Nanocom EVO I bought has never managed to connect to my car at all and so (to date) a waste of my time and money. Blackbox are still (more than a year later) working on a solution to that. Maybe someday I will have a working Nanocom EVO, or will sell it!

do you have the part numbers for the whole new security system? If mine does not start I want to claim through JLRA

[tact]

do you have the part numbers for the whole new security system? If mine does not start I want to claim through JLRA

Sorry, no... I don't have the part numbers. It was all supplied and fitted by LR Malaysia so I paid no attention to that detail. If I remember correctly there is a sticker on the new10AS - I could try get a picture of that if it helps? Might have a part number on it...

[Maxximus]

Told by the LR dealer that there is a new immobiliser and wiring system - $1500 fitted. Have them now chasing up with JLRA to get this done under warranty - my thoughts are they should because this problem fits very neatly into the Australian consumer guarantee. Will let you all know what happens

[Maxximus]

Told by the LR dealer that there is a new immobiliser and wiring system - $1500 fitted. Have them now chasing up with JLRA to get this done under warranty - my thoughts are they should because this problem fits very neatly into the Australian consumer guarantee. Will let you all know what happens

Quick update - dealer called and said LRA would go halves in the replacement. I asked them to go back to LR and say no and that under Australia's consumer law they should change the whole lot under warranty as it is only just 2 years old and it is reasonably expected that an immobiliser should last longer than two years. Let's see what happens

[Rick Fischer]

Latest:

Did write on paper - Formal Letter to Oz JLRA CEO. Has been delivered by registered post a little while ago. Will wait the "statutory" admin law time for some reply and then do some more if not satisfactory or no reply. Is really a pita!

As a by the by, ACCC is not at all happy with car manufacturers and their cavalier attitude to Trade Practices Act and statutory warranty provisions therein.

Cheers

RF

[D90 orkney]

Latest:

Did write on paper - Formal Letter to Oz JLRA CEO. Has been delivered by registered post a little while ago. Will wait the "statutory" admin law time for some reply and then do some more if not satisfactory or no reply. Is really a pita!

As a by the by, ACCC is not at all happy with car manufacturers and their cavalier attitude to Trade Practices Act and statutory warranty provisions therein.

Cheers

RF

Hi Rick,

did anything come of this?

what did LR do with your immobiliser problem when it went there and how much did it cost? I’ve got mine with the same problem. Going Thursday. I spoke to them on the phone and they said they will not switch th immobiliser off. This is the second time it’s happened. And now it’s out of warranty. Not happy in the slightest especially if they fit the same rubbish for it to happen again.

When it happened ned the first time I somehow figured out by taking out an engine fuse, trying to start it, it not starting, put engine fuse back in it will start after trying to start it again.

Absolutly pathetic problem to have.

[D90 orkney]

What is the go with if I wanted to fit my own immobiliser and central locking? What happens there

[Maxximus]

Hi Rick,

did anything come of this?

what did LR do with your immobiliser problem when it went there and how much did it cost? I’ve got mine with the same problem. Going Thursday. I spoke to them on the phone and they said they will not switch th immobiliser off. This is the second time it’s happened. And now it’s out of warranty. Not happy in the slightest especially if they fit the same rubbish for it to happen again.

When it happened ned the first time I somehow figured out by taking out an engine fuse, trying to start it, it not starting, put engine fuse back in it will start after trying to start it again.

Absolutly pathetic problem to have.

jla ended up agreeing to pay for the whole lot after I explained that lr South Africa, Malaysia and a few other countries did the replacement under warranty. Land Rover knew about the problem with the immobiliser in the 2013 models onwards but neglected to do a recall or tell their agents around the globe

[D90 orkney]

jla ended up agreeing to pay for the whole lot after I explained that lr South Africa, Malaysia and a few other countries did the replacement under warranty. Land Rover knew about the problem with the immobiliser in the 2013 models onwards but neglected to do a recall or tell their agents around the globe

I never got a replacement. They had to reprogram it. It’s the same thing. They said they won’t do it. It’s there now. I’ll be taking it to vcat if they don’t first of all take away all cost. $236 per hour Hahahaha that in itself is a joke. Also will be arguing yet again that they switch it off as I won’t be coming in to get it fixed everytime this happens. What if I was stuck in remote bush with this problem? Absolutely disgusting

[tact]

[...] What if I was stuck in remote bush with this problem? Absolutely disgusting

This was exactly my point to LR Malaysia when I was driving hard to be told what is my EKA. I used to do long trips into remote areas of the Malaysian rainforest/jungle. To have to leave the vehicle behind simply because I couldn't un-immobilise the vehicle (either a system fault or just a damaged remote fob) - just unthinkable!

No one could find my EKA code for the factory installed security system - So LR Malaysia finally agreed with LR international to replace my entire security system and keyfobs to the latest model - to get a known EKA to supply to me with it.

[D90 orkney]

This was exactly my point to LR Malaysia when I was driving hard to be told what is my EKA. I used to do long trips into remote areas of the Malaysian rainforest/jungle. To have to leave the vehicle behind simply because I couldn't un-immobilise the vehicle (either a system fault or just a damaged remote fob) - just unthinkable!

No one could find my EKA code for the factory installed security system - So LR Malaysia finally agreed with LR international to replace my entire security system and keyfobs to the latest model - to get a known EKA to supply to me with it.


So just got off off the phone to ULR. It took 4 hours to diagnose at $236 an hour. Then was informed that my module has an internal problem. I need a completely new and different system to the one I have. This will only cost $3000. I asked why is the system completely different to the one I have. He said that he doesn’t have that information. I asked if he could get it. He said they will not give out that information. I’m pretty sure I think I know why it’s a completely different system. Perhaps because they know it’s a dud system. This should be a recall. It’s a criminal act that it isn’t. I told them to shove the 4 hours where the sun don’t shine and that I won’t be paying $3000 for a new system. They are going to put it through head office to see if it will be done under warranty. If they don’t I shall take them to vcat

[tact]

So just got off off the phone to ULR. It took 4 hours to diagnose at $236 an hour. Then was informed that my module has an internal problem. I need a completely new and different system to the one I have. This will only cost $3000. I asked why is the system completely different to the one I have. He said that he doesn’t have that information. I asked if he could get it. He said they will not give out that information. I’m pretty sure I think I know why it’s a completely different system. Perhaps because they know it’s a dud system. This should be a recall. It’s a criminal act that it isn’t. I told them to shove the 4 hours where the sun don’t shine and that I won’t be paying $3000 for a new system. They are going to put it through head office to see if it will be done under warranty. If they don’t I shall take them to vcat

What model year is your defender? What do your remote control fobs look like?

Mine is a MY2013 Defender. LR Malaysia told me that, rather than just replace my security unit (10AS) with one the same, they have to install a completely security system from the then current 2015 model year. (IIFR that incl. instrument control unit and engine ECU as they are matched etc)

Even my remote control fob had to be changed to match the newer security system.

The original remote fob looked like this.137337
The new remote fob I have now looks like this.137338

Fortunately LR agreed to all this under warranty! It wasn't broken, worked fine, they just couldn't tell me the EKA for the original system.

I could understand why the security unit (10AS) would need to be replaced for one with a known EKA. I asked why they were replacing the entire systems and the answer: We cannot source the older (10AS) units for my model year any more.

So be alert friends if ever your (older) security system dies....you might have to replace more than you think.

[D90 orkney]

What model year is your defender? What do your remote control fobs look like?

Mine is a MY2013 Defender. LR Malaysia told me that, rather than just replace my security unit (10AS) with one the same, they have to install a completely security system from the then current 2015 model year. (IIFR that incl. instrument control unit and engine ECU as they are matched etc)

Even my remote control fob had to be changed to match the newer security system.

The original remote fob looked like this.137337
The new remote fob I have now looks like this.137338

Fortunately LR agreed to all this under warranty! It wasn't broken, worked fine, they just couldn't tell me the EKA for the original system.

I could understand why the security unit (10AS) would need to be replaced for one with a known EKA. I asked why they were replacing the entire systems and the answer: We cannot source the older (10AS) units for my model year any more.

So be alert friends if ever your (older) security system dies....you might have to replace more than you think.


So I have the BAS tune on my ecu. It will replace that? I can’t do that

yes I have the first fob. And mine is 2013

[tact]

So I have the BAS tune on my ecu. It will replace that? I can’t do that

yes I have the first fob. And mine is 2013

Better double check with them what they are doing. In my case it involved the ECU. Might be different for you.
(In my case - replacing the ECU may have more to do with issues around not having the vehicle VIN encoded properly. e.g. I bought a nanocom evo hoping to use it to turn off the immobiliser whenever I go bush. The nanocom never worked as it could never see the vehicle VIN)

When I bought into the BAS tune it was back when BAS shipped an unlocked ECU free of charge with the tune tool etc, so I had the original ECU as a spare. I put the original back in before returning the vehicle to LR. After I got it back, just put the tuned ECU back in, and repeated the linking process to link up to the new security module - using the BAS tool.

[D90 orkney]

Better double check with them what they are doing. In my case it involved the ECU. Might be different for you.
(In my case - replacing the ECU may have more to do with issues around not having the vehicle VIN encoded properly. e.g. I bought a nanocom evo hoping to use it to turn off the immobiliser whenever I go bush. The nanocom never worked as it could never see the vehicle VIN)

When I bought into the BAS tune it was back when BAS shipped an unlocked ECU free of charge with the tune tool etc, so I had the original ECU as a spare. I put the original back in before returning the vehicle to LR. After I got it back, just put the tuned ECU back in, and repeated the linking process to link up to the new security module - using the BAS tool.


Yeah cool. I the same unlocked ecu. So I can put the old one in

[tact]

Yeah cool. I the same unlocked ecu. So I can put the old one in

I tended to do that whenever I left my Defender with LR in any case.... it only takes 10min to swap in/out once you have done it a couple of times.

If they do change your 10AS you just have to repeat one portion of the BAS installation process to get BAS ECU talking to the new 10AS:
- refit and connect up the tuned ECU
- enter the service/test menu
- press "renew 10AS"

BTW - I just checked the email exchanges at the time (Sept 2016) and confirm that LR Malaysia changed:
- ECU (maybe not needed for your vehicle?)
- 10AS
- Instrument computer
- (not mentioned previously, forgot it).... a new cable loom.

Would have been expensive if I had to pay for it.

[D90 orkney]

I tended to do that whenever I left my Defender with LR in any case.... it only takes 10min to swap in/out once you have done it a couple of times.

If they do change your 10AS you just have to repeat one portion of the BAS installation process to get BAS ECU talking to the new 10AS:
- refit and connect up the tuned ECU
- enter the service/test menu
- press "renew 10AS"

BTW - I just checked the email exchanges at the time (Sept 2016) and confirm that LR Malaysia changed:
- ECU (maybe not needed for your vehicle?)
- 10AS
- Instrument computer
- (not mentioned previously, forgot it).... a new cable loom.

Would have been expensive if I had to pay for it.


After chatting with Pete Bell last night he thinks my immobiliser may be ok. He thinks it could be something shorting out seeing as I was working on my headunit while this was happening. My interior light has gone funny and stays on. As the control for that and the immobiliser is in the one place he is saying if I get the light right the immobilser should follow

[tact]

After chatting with Pete Bell last night he thinks my immobiliser may be ok. He thinks it could be something shorting out seeing as I was working on my headunit while this was happening. My interior light has gone funny and stays on. As the control for that and the immobiliser is in the one place he is saying if I get the light right the immobilser should follow

Sounds reasonable. Any fault codes when you connect the BAS tool and go to the appropriate menu?

[maxberry]

So just got off off the phone to ULR. It took 4 hours to diagnose at $236 an hour. Then was informed that my module has an internal problem. I need a completely new and different system to the one I have. This will only cost $3000. I asked why is the system completely different to the one I have. He said that he doesn’t have that information. I asked if he could get it. He said they will not give out that information. I’m pretty sure I think I know why it’s a completely different system. Perhaps because they know it’s a dud system. This should be a recall. It’s a criminal act that it isn’t. I told them to shove the 4 hours where the sun don’t shine and that I won’t be paying $3000 for a new system. They are going to put it through head office to see if it will be done under warranty. If they don’t I shall take them to vcat


Defender 90 2013 2.2l. Immobilizer appears to have a fault cannot start, lock or unlock. The EKA code did not disarm the immobilizer. Engine will crank briefly sometimes but mostly will not crank at all. Has just been sent on a float to Melb City Land Rover Port Melbourne. They claim to never have heard of the fault.
I changed the fob batteries. Disconnected the car battery to reset the electronics still no joy. Immobilizer light on tacho is flashing and will flash corresponding to a fob button push. interior light will turn off with a fob button push. A fob button push will sometimes make the immobilizer light go out then nothing happens at all. interior lights will not work with the door the door. The central locking will not operate off the driver door sill button. I think the instrument cluster did not light up as well. This issue could be expensive

any guidance would be deeply appreciated

Max

[maxberry]

I have the same alarm immobiliser fault in my Defender 90 2.2l MY2013.
MLR have quoted $3150 to fix the fault. I have already paid the diagnostics fee of $480 to MLR.
How did you get on with the repairs to your Land Rover?
I have approached JLR Aust trying to have it repaired under Aust Consumer Law Consumer Guarantees.
so far they have only agreed to cover 50% of the repair cost.
Did you have to go to VCAT? That is the position I am now faced with.
My situation is a little difficult as I bought the vehicle in a private sale from fella in Sydney.
The vehicle had two years warranty and MLR did quite a few warranty repairs. I reported the alarm system twice during the warranty period for some faulty behavior but MLR never fixed it. Now the 5 year old vehicle is dead and will not move due to the alarm immobiliser. The warranty expired 4/2016 but the vehicle has only 108,619km on the odometer.
Would like to hear how your repairs went and if Land Rover agreed to cover the costs. or how your VCAT experience went.
Any guidance would be greatly appreciated

regards

Max

[Rick Fischer]

Following a total lack of interest from JLRA and ther previous unhelpful responses, over a year since recurrence I think I have the solution - is fingers crossed. Easy and obvious once aware of what has probably happened, just a matter of eventually joining the dots.

Pennies dropping required a few things to not happen.

Go look at your rear door locking mechanism wiring. There is not a lot of copper, what there is is fairly large dia strands. What happens is that due to the change of angles at the hinge line the wire fractures inside the insulation inside the rubber hinge boot.

In my case following a faiure of one of the door lock mechs, I installed a bypass to obviate removing the whole harness; worked fine for a while but failed again later because I had used similar cable in the bypass. I replaced that whole harness from between the plugs with large dia multi strand speaker cable plug to plug as close up as I could solder.

Somewhere in there with the "genuine" failed/failing door latch wiring and spurious locked/unlocked signals I had my first total faiure of the 10AS system. I still hadn't connected the two events.

Long story short, twelve months later happened again as top of this thread, (a no go) and that describes what sort of happened. A while later I had total failure of the other rear door latch mech. Same problem, work hardened copper wire in the door hinge bend. Again replaced that with heavy multi strand speaker wire. No more rear door latch problems!

Now over twelve monhs since last 10AS isolator/alarm problem - touch wood!....................and no door latch problems...............................and all the other bits working as advertised.

Conclusion: (tentative)

Broken strands inside the rear doors harnesses inside the insulation, giving an intermittent open circuit, and sending incorrect/confusing signals to the 10AS Isolater which in turn causes/caused the ECU to not recognise any Fob signals.

Somethng for the Good Oil??

Cheers

Rick F