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rhinosm
24th June 2017, 05:15 PM
I have a GME TX3300 in D4.
It's about 15 mths old.
I haven't used it for 12 mths, last big trip.
I unplugged handset and kept in centre console.
Preparing for trip next week and I can't get unit to work.
I have power to unit, tested cable and fuse.
The unit just won't turn on.
Any ideas?

rhinosm
24th June 2017, 05:49 PM
I seem to have 18 Volts at radio, seems high?

AK83
24th June 2017, 09:14 PM
I seem to have 18 Volts at radio, seems high?

Just had a quick look at their specs.
Operating voltage range is 10-15v
Nominal battery voltage is 13.8v

If you're getting 18v at it's power socket, it must be going into a shut down mode, so it doesn't explode or something.

Further down in the specs it says this:

Over Voltage Protection:
25 volts DC max. At 18 volts DC
the RF power is reduced, and the
words ‘Hi DC’ flash.

Other than that, can't really help.

rovers4
24th June 2017, 09:55 PM
That voltage is high.

So, where are you measuring it between?
Make sure you have a working negative at the radio. It could be that there is a high resistance joint a.k.a. a poor connection - in the negative line. Check it all the way back to the battery.

Also check the car system voltage. Is the alternator working properly. What is the battery terminal voltage both while charging and at rest?

What is the condition of the contacts on the radio base unit and the removable head? Anything looking tarnished, a bit green, or maybe a bit bent?

Clean up with some CRC 2.26 and an old toothbrush. Do not use 5.56, WD40 or RP7 - they all can be a bit oily.

Also, after such a long time, the actual power switch might be a bit iffy. You might have to cycle it fifty/100 times to get it clean, as getting into it will be impossible I think.

If accessible, you could try running something else instead of the radio off the same power and negative return feeds. Most important, DO NOT RELY ON THE ANTENNA EARTH to run the radio electrics. To test, try a light bulb 5 or 21watt, with a couple of wires soldered on and carefully hold them on the socket contacts. You only need a momentary contact on both terminals to get a light up in order to prove the circuit out.

Make sure that the speaker plug is clean and is plugged in, if you run an external. Sometimes after running an external for some time and then reverting to the internal the switching contacts don't make properly.

And the other thing is : In your set-up do you need to have either the accessories "on", or engine "on" to get the radio to work? Just asking.


Hope it all goes loud and clear,

rovers4

trout1105
25th June 2017, 03:38 AM
I would be trying to work out why I was getting 18v to the radio power supply and fixing that up before trying anything else before the 18v do any more damage[thumbsupbig]

rhinosm
25th June 2017, 08:34 AM
Yes, thats my line of enquiry today.
Its connected directly to battery.
I'll do more testing today in daylight.
Interesting the voltage meter on dash and in cig lighter were showing under 12V at the time.

I do believe the UHF is cooked and will need to replace today as I'm off this Friday but I will need to make sure it doesn't happen again.

Thanks

loanrangie
26th June 2017, 11:32 AM
Yes, thats my line of enquiry today.
Its connected directly to battery.
I'll do more testing today in daylight.
Interesting the voltage meter on dash and in cig lighter were showing under 12V at the time.

I do believe the UHF is cooked and will need to replace today as I'm off this Friday but I will need to make sure it doesn't happen again.

Thanks

Worth a call to GME to see what they say .