Intermittent Clutch Issue

[mark2]

I have an intermittent clutch issue where sometimes it becomes impossible to select gears without crunching - at these times it feels like the clutch is not disengaging properly or barely at all, although the pedal feel doesnt seem to change.
It last happened while doing some medium off-roading in low range and then came good. I also have what seems to be the fairly common issue of trouble engaging first when the traffic lights turn green, but not sure if this is related.

Fluid levels are ok and I've adjusted free play at the push rod.

Could it be a slave or m/c issue?

[Tins]

I have an intermittent clutch issue where sometimes it becomes impossible to select gears without crunching - at these times it feels like the clutch is not disengaging properly or barely at all, although the pedal feel doesnt seem to change.
It last happened while doing some medium off-roading in low range and then came good. I also have what seems to be the fairly common issue of trouble engaging first when the traffic lights turn green, but not sure if this is related.

Fluid levels are ok and I've adjusted free play at the push rod.

Could it be a slave or m/c issue?

Could be the driven plate sticking on the spline. Could be the yoke is breaking, but that would probably not "come good". Or, it could be what you said.

Not sure what vehicle this is. Can you pop the slave cyl rubber cup off to see if there's any fluid leaking behind it? If it has a flex hose, try crimping it closed ( gently! ) and see if the pedal goes hard. If it does it ain't the M/C.

I use something like this:

125225

But vice grips work in a pinch. I repeat, gently. They are easily damaged with too much force.

[Bearman]

Could it be a slave or m/c issue?

Most likely one of the 2 or both. Unlikely to be the slave pushrod, fork (they are massive) or thrust bearing. I would be replacing them both and have a good look at the short rubber hose near the slave for deterioration. Get someone to push the pedal down while you are looking at the hose. It may be bulging under pressure.

[mark2]

Could be the driven plate sticking on the spline. Could be the yoke is breaking, but that would probably not "come good". Or, it could be what you said.

Not sure what vehicle this is. Can you pop the slave cyl rubber cup off to see if there's any fluid leaking behind it? If it has a flex hose, try crimping it closed ( gently! ) and see if the pedal goes hard. If it does it ain't the M/C.

I use something like this:

125225

But vice grips work in a pinch. I repeat, gently. They are easily damaged with too much force.

Thanks John. I should have mentioned it's a 110 GS with Isuzu/LT95. Will give your suggestions a try. When releasing the clutch ie taking off from a standstill I often get a reasonably high pitched whirring noise as the clutch takes up. Maybe something is sticky in there.

[mark2]

Most likely one of the 2 or both. Unlikely to be the slave pushrod, fork (they are massive) or thrust bearing. I would be replacing them both and have a good look at the short rubber hose near the slave for deterioration. Get someone to push the pedal down while you are looking at the hose. It may be bulging under pressure.

Thanks Brian. Where would you suggest is the best source for a Perentie specific slave cyl?

[mark2]

Clamped off the flex line and the pedal wasnt hard - it went to the floor and stayed there. After removing the clamp it was still dodgy, so I've ordered a new m/c.

[Bearman]

Clamped off the flex line and the pedal wasnt hard - it went to the floor and stayed there. After removing the clamp it was still dodgy, so I've ordered a new m/c.

Sounds like you have narrowed it down, but I would still replace the slave as well. Easy to pick up at dealers like British Offroad, MR automotive , roverlord, bcc or BMI. Just make sure you get the proper one for the Isuzu models.

[mark2]

This is driving me crazy. I've replaced both master and slave but am having a lot of trouble getting a proper adjustment. To get the required pedal free play, I needed to wind out the adjustment nuts on the pushrod almost to the end (pushrod at max length). But now, with a few km on it, the freeplay is gone and the clutch slips excessively under the slightest load. I had to readjust it at the bottom of the Toowoomba Range, just so I could get up the range. But backing off the adjustment to put some freeplay on the pedal as specified gives me gear clash into reverse... It almost seems as if the free play changes with operating temperature.
And now to cap it all off, the new master cyl is leaking...

Since fitting the turbo the clutch has always slipped a bit under heavy load, maybe this is a good excuse to replace it.

Where's a good source for a HD clutch kit at the right price?

[Bearman]

This is driving me crazy. I've replaced both master and slave but am having a lot of trouble getting a proper adjustment. To get the required pedal free play, I needed to wind out the adjustment nuts on the pushrod almost to the end (pushrod at max length). But now, with a few km on it, the freeplay is gone and the clutch slips excessively under the slightest load. I had to readjust it at the bottom of the Toowoomba Range, just so I could get up the range. But backing off the adjustment to put some freeplay on the pedal as specified gives me gear clash into reverse... It almost seems as if the free play changes with operating temperature.
And now to cap it all off, the new master cyl is leaking...

Since fitting the turbo the clutch has always slipped a bit under heavy load, maybe this is a good excuse to replace it.

Where's a good source for a HD clutch kit at the right price?

Something not right there Mark. Did you get the correct slave cylinder for the perentie.
KLR do a good clutch kit (Exedy)

[mark2]

Something not right there Mark. Did you get the correct slave cylinder for the perentie.
KLR do a good clutch kit (Exedy)

Can only assume it was the right one - it was listed as suitable for Perentie.. I bought the slave from an ebay seller who is also an Aulro member and owns a Perentie...paid the extra for the OEM Lockheed version rather than a cheapie.

Pretty peeved about the master leaking after less than 100 km, paid extra for a brand name on that one also. Not sure whether to bring it up with the seller or if its something I've caused with adjustment issues.

I'm considering the the KLR clutch kit. Even though my 110 only had about 7,000 km since the Tenix rebuild, there are some signs of abuse ie the broken x/fer intermediate shaft (which you helped me sort out) and a front axle which snapped without much provocation. Hard to see how a clutch could be damaged in such a short distance, but I've never been really happy with the gearchange since I bought it - trouble getting into first at traffic lights, reverse clash and intermittent clutch drag. Am now at point of spending the $800 with KLR in the hope of getting it right.

[Bearman]

Does sound like there is something wrong with the m/cylinder.