Defender lights upgrade

[landoman]

I want to upgrade my defender headlights and have read many of the posts here and based on what I have found plus some other research it looks like I'm down to a choice of options

1) JW Speaker ....appears to be top of the line kit ....with good low beam and high beam performance
......but a tad hard on the wallet .....

2) A traxide light wiring loom upgrade ...plus better bulbs .( Phillips?? ).and a suitable reflector (ciebo )

3) crystal halogen headlight uograde ....from Rovercraft

4) xenon ultimate headlamp upgrade ......from Rovercraft

I can afford the J W Speaker .........but I have past experience and confidence in Traxide kits .....however I have no idea of how these different kits might deliver the best light ...........I am old with failing eyesight and need the best light I can get ........so not sure how I should choose ........comments ...experience .....suggestions welcome ..........

[Vern]

Well if you need good light that doesn't give you eye strain, stick with halogen! The traxide kit and good globes with some wipac lights works a treat.

[filcar]

Traxide kit .....

[JDNSW]

Traxide kit (or equivalent) for a start. This is by far the best light for the money, and needs to be done before any of the other changes are considered anyway. Do this and then consider further upgrades.

If your eyes are suffering from poor vision due to old age, speaking from my experience, consider a cataract operation. The improvement in my eyesight was staggering.

[Pickles2]

JDNSW is spot on, in that the first thing you need to do is fit the Traxide loom, which is said to improve your standard headlights to such a degree, that maybe you won't need to do anything else.
I think that, after that, there are several options, but that ya need to do the loom first, to support whatever it is that you decide to do.
Pickles.

[jbe]

I run the Trucklite LED headlights and I am quite happy with them.

[trout1105]

Maybe simply fitting an LED lightbar would be a far easier and cheaper option. [bigwhistle]

[Vern]

Maybe simply fitting an LED lightbar would be a far easier and cheaper option. [bigwhistle]
He wants to UPGRADE the lights, not make them worse! (Not a fan of led kelvin output sorry)
Think he just wants a headlight upgrade for normal driving duties

[trout1105]

He wants to UPGRADE the lights, not make them worse! (Not a fan of led kelvin output sorry)
Think he just wants a headlight upgrade for normal driving duties



How on earth can adding a lightbar make the lighting "Worse" I call BS on that statement.
If the lightbar is wired up correctly then it will turn off when the lights are dipped and it will the same effect as increasing the output of the headlights on high beam, Only better.

[DiscoMick]

I agree with those who say to upgrade the wiring loom and fit plus bulbs first, before deciding if other upgrades are necessary.
Fixing the wiring loom will improve everything.

[landoman]

I agree with those who say to upgrade the wiring loom and fit plus bulbs first, before deciding if other upgrades are necessary.
Fixing the wiring loom will improve everything.


Ok to all you guys who give feed back ....great ....thanks ...a few more questions

1) so so I guess what you are saying even if I went to the top priced JW speakers I would still have to upgrade the wiring loom with a Traxide kit anyway ?

2) also if I got the Traxide loom are they hard to wire up ......do you need to run the wire all the way to the battery or is there some where under the hood you can tap into a power source ...... the wire holes out of my battery box are pretty full up with leads for auxiliary power to the back and fridge etc .....I could drill another hole ....but like to keep holes to the battery box to a minimum

3) if I upgraded to the Traxide loom .......what bulbs would I fit ( halogen ? ) to the existing reflectors
....anyone have a part number

4) I assume these bulbs would be dipped and high beam all in one ?


I already have a pair of light force LED driving lights fitted for country driving and I find them to be great .........but when I dip them it's like driving into a black hole with the current OEM Defender lights
....also around town they are terrible

thanks again .....great advice

[Vern]

How on earth can adding a lightbar make the lighting "Worse" I call BS on that statement.
If the lightbar is wired up correctly then it will turn off when the lights are dipped and it will the same effect as increasing the output of the headlights on high beam, Only better.
It was in jest! (Except for the bit about the crap kelvin output)
Plus how does a light bar help him with his headlights?

[austastar]

Hi,
As you say you have driving lights, perhaps the Traxide dual kit would be worthwhile. Wire it up as per the diagrams and you will be assured of a substantial wiring (every thing you need is in the kit ) base to run all your lighting on.

I put in the dual kit and noticed an immediate improvement, then a year or so later put in the driving lights, and then upgraded to the Wipac lamp holders.
Now I'm happy driving at night.
Cheers

[landoman]

Hi,
As you say you have driving lights, perhaps the Traxide dual kit would be worthwhile. Wire it up as per the diagrams and you will be assured of a substantial wiring (every thing you need is in the kit ) base to run all your lighting on.

I put in the dual kit and noticed an immediate improvement, then a year or so later put in the driving lights, and then upgraded to the Wipac lamp holders.
Now I'm happy driving at night.
Cheers


Thanks........I took a look at the lights in my defender ...(2016 ) ......they say WIPAC QUADOPTIC on the glass .......and the bulbs are H4 60/55 watt .........are these the wipac ones you are referring to or an other type .....looks like I might have the ok lights ....and just need the Traxide kit ?

[austastar]

Thanks........I took a look at the lights in my defender ...(2016 ) ......they say WIPAC QUADOPTIC on the glass .......and the bulbs are H4 60/55 watt .........are these the wipac ones you are referring to or an other type .....looks like I might have the ok lights ....and just need the Traxide kit ?
Hi,
PM678 | Wipac Crystal Halogen Headlamp Conversion Kit (pair) - left hand dip (UK and Australia) - Paddock Spares (http://www.paddockspares.com/pm678-wipac-crystal-halogen-headlamp-conversion-kit-pair-left-hand-dip-uk-and-australia.html)

This is the link to the replacement lights I bought.

Cheers

[DiscoMick]

Ok to all you guys who give feed back ....great ....thanks ...a few more questions

1) so so I guess what you are saying even if I went to the top priced JW speakers I would still have to upgrade the wiring loom with a Traxide kit anyway ?

2) also if I got the Traxide loom are they hard to wire up ......do you need to run the wire all the way to the battery or is there some where under the hood you can tap into a power source ...... the wire holes out of my battery box are pretty full up with leads for auxiliary power to the back and fridge etc .....I could drill another hole ....but like to keep holes to the battery box to a minimum

3) if I upgraded to the Traxide loom .......what bulbs would I fit ( halogen ? ) to the existing reflectors
....anyone have a part number

4) I assume these bulbs would be dipped and high beam all in one ?


I already have a pair of light force LED driving lights fitted for country driving and I find them to be great .........but when I dip them it's like driving into a black hole with the current OEM Defender lights
....also around town they are terrible

thanks again .....great advice
Get the Traxide dual kit for both headlights and driving lights first. About $180 from memory.
I just fitted Phillips + 35 bulbs for about $80.
Whatever else you do will benefit from the upgraded wiring loom.

[Leyland1980]

Whatever you do get traxide before doing anything else

[landoman]

Get the Traxide dual kit for both headlights and driving lights first. About $180 from memory.
I just fitted Phillips + 35 bulbs for about $80.
Whatever else you do will benefit from the upgraded wiring loom.


Ok ....sounds good advice ,...get the Traxide dual kit ...( given I have the light force driving lights installed already ) ........then I'm set for other options

what are +35 bulbs ? ........are they enhanced halogen globes ......do you have a part number .....?

[DiscoMick]

Just go to Autobahn or similar and they will be on display.
Don't get seduced by the blue lights - normal gives the most light.
Plus 35 means they give out more light than normal.

[Mercguy]

Well I really hate to come late to this perpetual debate, but I will only chime in with actual experience.

Many years ago, when the HID thing was relatively uncommon (2007-ish) I had an offer from the innovision (philips) rep to test a set of H4 HID inserts in my SL.

The SL was ideal, because it complied with the ADR's for the lens washing and levelling.

I did a lengthy writeup on it at the time for the guys over on ozbenz.net I considered them at the time to be far superior to the halogen offerings - most of which I had already tried - plus 80's crystal vision, 110/130W, 160W.... yes Mercedes use ceramic connectors and glassfibre sheathed high temp heavy gauge wiring as standard - what a joy... Certainly no Landrover wiring in that car. [bigrolf]

Some context needs to be applied to the discussion however, before I proceed further:

1. globes in an R107 SL mercedes are right up there with being the singularly most stupid service item in the history of mankind.

Granted they were long-lived and well isolated from vibration, and were height adjustable from the cabin, but they are an absolute bugger to replace. Seriously, people complain about TD5 oil filters and stuff... try changing a 107 light bulb at the side of the road - in the daytime! forget it.

This - combined with the promise of far greater lumen output from HID, led me to try them.

Now, The truth is, they WERE better. and the Mercedes, unlike your average POS JDM buzzbox, does have excellent reflector and lens design, so the beam scatter was not disasterous, and throw was good, with clean cutoff lines. It ought to be - bosch made the lenses and reflectors. and they are hellishly expensive things to replace.

The disappointment was the effort required to install them properly, plus the infamous mercedes dash 'bulb warning light' which monitors all the illumination circuits ( park, indicator, low, high fog, stop and brake lamps) and triggers an orange idiot light in the dash when the current sensing goes half an ohm outside the freaking circuit rating.... ok slight exaggeration but not really - you know what ze chermanz are like. Precise!

Well about 5 years on, the ballast on one side decided enough was---- enough. while the bulbs were absolutely fine, the ballast type had discontinued. SO.... that led me to Theretrofitsource - who actually found me an OEM denso 55w ballast and made the appropriate adaptor harness. I was back in business after 2 weeks. No big deal - I don't drive the SL much. but what a cockup. I was not pleased with Philips.

But the disparity in colour temperature between the main beam and the fog lamps annoyed me. so I had a set of H3 HID globes and ballasts to match fabricated.

by now, the retrofit source guys are wanting to know how I'm doing all this stuff - because they want to make a retail kit.... when I told them, they said...uh no way dude. too much outlay. Pity, because they are actually good..... except for one situation.

raining wet roads after dusk. more importantly, poorly marked poorly illuminated raining wet roads after dark.

There is simply too much diffraction and not enough reflection in that higher temp area of the colour spectrum to be effective.

Now the first reason is the globes colour temperature was a little too high - 6000K.
The second is the HID is a reflector style, and that design simply does not work with a gas discharge arc lamp (under 500w) in wet conditions.

Heat was not an issue in the Mercedes. the housings are all metal. So... what did I do?

Yes I still run them, but I have since changed the globes for a special german Osram 4600K temp globe element in a custom ceramic housing. - not an off-the-shelf ebay cheap H4 kit.
125320

You get what you pay for is the answer to all those who believe that HID is junk. But oh boy - The outlay on this car, just to make it "right" was an exercise in futility. I didn't waste money - I wasted time and effort AND money in destructive testing. :D

The reason HID headlights ****es so many people off, is because people do not install them to comply with ADR's, they use junk plastic / polycarb relfectors with worse than poor beam scatter, and no cutoff, which blinds oncoming drivers.

When correctly installed, the HID headlights ARE effective, and they DO have excellent penetration - except when it is wet - which is the downside of all HID's - even the very expensive hella / denso projector designs.

So lets move forward, and slightly backwards at the same time.....

I happened to have another 107 - but it was an SLC.
when I bought it, it had the US style sealed beam (5.25") aka H1 separate low and separate high. Very uncommon.
125319

As you can see from the above picture, There is no doubt an opportunity exists to have an awesome incandescent setup... especially when you see 4 separate headlights...

which is why (if you look carefully) when this pic was taken after the setup was converted to H1 insert Hella reflectors, I am running a standard 'wide' high beam pattern on the "low" and a pin-beam (aka aircraft landing light) 100W insert on the "high" (the high beam is on the inside). Some fiddly stuff had to be done with mouting tabs on the reflectors to fit the high beam spread into the outer housings, but it wasn't major surgery, and could easily be swapped out.

These heavy parabolic hella reflector designs are incredibly powerful with long-throw, and when you use a proper 100W rally halogen globe in them, they are really somewhat ludicrous. We measured 2 lux @ 1.32km on a straight stretch of the old princes highway one night not long after installing them (2008). In fact, I have to say, they just about have to be the most pleasing setup I have ever used on a car, without having to bother resorting to driving lights..... on that car they were simply not needed - you could not 'outrun' or 'outdrive' that combination. and the fog lamps were plain 55W H3's fyi. Only ever used them for 'looks' [biggrin]

I specifically recall a late night trip home from canberra coming through the southern highlands with the worst winter pea-soup fog I have ever encountered. I couldnt see further than the middle of the broken centreline infront of the car. With the lights on the SLC, I was able to travel @ 40km/hr in relative safety, while most everyone else had parked up with flashing hazards, due to their inadequate lighting. The pin-beam landing lights are what made it possible, because they didn't have the broad scatter of the other beams.

Now, the interesting part for LR owners.

When I purchased the RRC in 2015, one of the first fixes was to replace the crappy 7" H4 inserts which were suffering from moisture damage on the internal reflector and bad haze on the other. Initially I swapped the standard 55/60 globes into some new Hella housings, and was happy - It was after all the very first 'personal touch' I did. It cleaned up the look of the car, and made it look 'new' - to me at least.

But then I discovered how pathetic the pommie wiring is. I expected a lot more from the lights, and knew they could be better - So I re-wired the car. Put in a second battery, isolator etc etc ad infinitum...

That also included some quite heavy gauge cable to the headlights with new ceramic H4 connectors, so all were now all high-current fused circuits on separate solid state relays for low and high beam on each side (4 relays) - because I was going to put in some massive wattage globes.

With that said, the lights were adjusted 'down a lot' to prevent oncoming dazzle - as I'm not the kind of bloke who likes to blind drivers - unless the idiots refuse to dip their beam... you know the kind of person I'm talking about, I am sure.

Again, Quite satisfied with the output - and I have covered it elsewhere on here. The globes were swapped a few times, until I found a set I was pleased with - ended up being 90/130W and then 110/160W when I was finally satisfied with the high beam dipping to low wasn't leaving me night-blind.
125325
But I was certainly not happy with the IPF driving lights.

So I replaced them with a pair of great whites LED's that I already had. I covered this elsewhere on here in another thread.
125324

The difference was immediately noticeable - the 160W H4's high beam was like a candle compared to these LED's but still obviously better than the standard. I was quite flabbergasted at the time, thinking how I believed that IPF made excellent offroad lighting products.... It was simply astounding the difference. and so was the cost!!!!
Which is why I will certainly caveat this monologue with the edict that at the time, I was prepared to spend the money on the highest quality I could afford - and even then I thought they were absurdly expensive...

Since then, I have had a lot of 'interesting' fun with the electricals - when the bridge rectifier avalanche diode pack somehow dead shorted across the windings and drained the battery almost overnight, and then 6 months later, the brand new replacement alternator internally dead-shorting the winding (heat from engine bay plus high current draw from lights + winching + fridge +trailer etc.) after driving through a puddle.... yes, a puddle on a sealed road - the kind that kids would stomp in to splash their friends.... [bigsad]

This has led in recent months to some changes in the electrical system as the replacement 120A lucas style alternator which failed- (piece of junk - made in australia too I might add.....) could not be rebuilt- (seriously wtf?) nonetheless, it presented an opportunity as no suitable replacement could be found, so I was credited with the funds - (a refund was offered) and I spent the money on a few "upgrades" (I still haven't found a suitably decent alternator - I'll probably modify a Mercedes one since I have a couple laying around)

The first was a set of Great whites LED 7" projector LED replacement headlamps, after testing them side by side on the car against the JW speaker evo 2's. The second was an LED light bar which I have not yet fitted.

I liked the JW speaker evo 2, but they simply could not match the beam accuracy of the great whites, had worse low beam scatter and weren't as bright (and they cost more at the time).

So, that's what sits on the front as of now - and the throw, the spread and the intensity is better than the 160w halogens.

125323

Now I'm a halogen fan. I like the natural tungsten filament glow.

BUT.

I also like to minimise my current draw, and like longevity that LED provides.

While I personally have had excellent results from Great Whites, I have other brand LED's on the vehicle and those are also high quality. The only incandescent globes that remain are the illumination for interior switches and cluster gauges - because I prefer it that way.

One day, I will probably revisit the love of incandescence. But not on the RRC. It is well equipped with more light than I need. In fact the second pair of driving lights are totally redundant since putting in the LED headlights - That is how seriously good the upgrade is. and You wouldn't just say that about a pair of 18LED driving lights unless you actually saw how good the headlamps are.

I'm always open to improving the lighting on my vehicles, and this is the best 4x4 setup I've installed to date. I know that I could have bought fyrlyts etc, but the current draw and voltage required to bump the lumen output up to the max was simply not worth it. With the LED's I have a warranty against failure, and a guarantee of tens of thousands of hours. They're probably going to outlast the vehicle - they have already outlasted one of them......

So as long as people understand that there are 'horses for courses' it is the same with HID, LED and Incandescent lighting. Each type of lighting has it's niche where it outshines the others. The problem is the differences are no longer 'massive' and the performance versus price versus quality argument is always going to be budget-oriented.

I would stick with incandescent globes if I was not running seriously evil gibber-laden tracks at night and my budget was limited.

I would install HID long-range pin beam driving lights, if I had a reasonable budget and wanted longevity and minimal maintenance (globe replacement).

I would install LED for spread-beam driving lights over incandescent or HID every single time.

I would install LED headlights, if I had a healthy budget - as the low-end ones simply do not cut the mustard with respect to performance, when you can get better output from a good standard hella h4 reflector and a pair of high quality halogen globes...

I don't feel that halogen driving lights represent value for money when you consider the electrical load for the equivalent light output these days. However, they DO have a more comfortable colour spectrum when compared to the poor balance of cheaper HID and LED products.

While my greatest bugbear is the intensity of LED reflective light from street / highway signs and other road furniture, the singular area which kept incandescent globes in my headlights, I have to say that the design, spread, light output and lack of dazzle in the 7" LED headlamps I have fitted a few months ago have far exceeded my requirements and I have to admit I am not looking back, and can see a lot further now.

I hardly have cause to engage the driving lights, and that is what surprises me the most.

But I am a sucker for a nice pair of driving lights, so don't be surprised if my roofrack ends up with some crazy setup in the future. Whatever it is, it will be totally unnecessary, except for the most remote area night work.

[DiscoMick]

Interesting experiences, thanks.

[numpty]

2) also if I got the Traxide loom are they hard to wire up ......do you need to run the wire all the way to the battery or is there some where under the hood you can tap into a power source ...... the wire holes out of my battery box are pretty full up with leads for auxiliary power to the back and fridge etc .....I could drill another hole ....but like to keep holes to the battery box to a minimum

I've wired two defenders with a Traxide kit and sourced the power from the starter motor (rather than the battery). Both relays are mounted on the drivers side inner guard under the removable plastic cover. All the wiring is then run according to instructions.

And it's quite a simple job

[jon3950]

I've done the Traxide loom upgrade, here:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/236135-alasdair-my16-keswick-110-a-9.html#post2634864
And added new bulbs, here:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/236135-alasdair-my16-keswick-110-a-15.html#post2670291

I too have eyes that are getting old and I find these better than the bi-xenons in the D4. They are a good colour temperature, a bit whiter than standard but not too blue. They are less harsh than the bi-xenons which were still a low colour temperature at only 4300k. They've been a huge improvement over standard.

The Cibie reflectors are good, but if you have a Puma and your reflectors are in good condition, they won't need replacing.

I'm not far from you in Wahroonga so you're welcome to have a look at mine if you want.

Cheers,
Jon

[landoman]

I've wired two defenders with a Traxide kit and sourced the power from the starter motor (rather than the battery). Both relays are mounted on the drivers side inner guard under the removable plastic cover. All the wiring is then run according to instructions.

And it's quite a simple job


Ok thanks for that ....I already have my driving lights wired up to come on with high beam and to go off when I dip the high beam . They also have a switch on the dash that allows me to switch them them off .....this was done by an auto electrician who installed the driving lights .
will this complicate the fitting of the traxide dual kit .......also my driving lights have Deutch plugs will the Traxide kit have these

[D90 orkney]

I've got the Jw speakers and have to say they are great. I take them for granted but when I jump into a halogen headlight car is when I truly appreciate my headlights. Go for JW speaker and you won't be disappointed

[landoman]

[QUOTE=Mercguy;2690600]Well I really hate to come late to this perpetual debate, but I will only chime in with actual experience.

Many years ago, when the HID thing was relatively uncommon (2007-ish) I had an offer from the innovision (philips) rep to test a set of H4 HID inserts in my SL.

The SL was ideal, because it complied with the ADR's for the lens washing and levelling.

I did a lengthy writeup on it at the time for the guys over on ozbenz.net I considered them at the time to be far superior to the halogen offerings - most of which I had already tried - plus 80's crystal vision, 110/130W, 160W.... yes Mercedes use ceramic connectors and glassfibre sheathed high temp heavy gauge wiring as standard - what a joy... Certainly no Landrover wiring in that car. [bigrolf]

Some context needs to be applied to the discussion however, before I proceed further:

1. globes in an R107 SL mercedes are right up there with being the singularly most stupid service item in the history of mankind.

Granted they were long-lived and well isolated from vibration, and were height adjustable from the cabin, but they are an absolute bugger to replace. Seriously, people complain about TD5 oil filters and stuff... try changing a 107 light bulb at the side of the road - in the daytime! forget it.

This - combined with the promise of far greater lumen output from HID, led me to try them.

Now, The truth is, they WERE better. and the Mercedes, unlike your average POS JDM buzzbox, does have excellent reflector and lens design, so the beam scatter was not disasterous, and throw was good, with clean cutoff lines. It ought to be - bosch made the lenses and reflectors. and they are hellishly expensive things to replace.

The disappointment was the effort required to install them properly, plus the infamous mercedes dash 'bulb warning light' which monitors all the illumination circuits ( park, indicator, low, high fog, stop and brake lamps) and triggers an orange idiot light in the dash when the current sensing goes half an ohm outside the freaking circuit rating.... ok slight exaggeration but not really - you know what ze chermanz are like. Precise!

Well about 5 years on, the ballast on one side decided enough was---- enough. while the bulbs were absolutely fine, the ballast type had discontinued. SO.... that led me to Theretrofitsource - who actually found me an OEM denso 55w ballast and made the appropriate adaptor harness. I was back in business after 2 weeks. No big deal - I don't drive the SL much. but what a cockup. I was not pleased with Philips.

But the disparity in colour temperature between the main beam and the fog lamps annoyed me. so I had a set of H3 HID globes and ballasts to match fabricated.

by now, the retrofit source guys are wanting to know how I'm doing all this stuff - because they want to make a retail kit.... when I told them, they said...uh no way dude. too much outlay. Pity, because they are actually good..... except for one situation.

raining wet roads after dusk. more importantly, poorly marked poorly illuminated raining wet roads after dark.

There is simply too much diffraction and not enough reflection in that higher temp area of the colour spectrum to be effective.

Now the first reason is the globes colour temperature was a little too high - 6000K.
The second is the HID is a reflector style, and that design simply does not work with a gas discharge arc lamp (under 500w) in wet conditions.

Heat was not an issue in the Mercedes. the housings are all metal. So... what did I do?

Yes I still run them, but I have since changed the globes for a special german Osram 4600K temp globe element in a custom ceramic housing. - not an off-the-shelf ebay cheap H4 kit.
125320

You get what you pay for is the answer to all those who believe that HID is junk. But oh boy - The outlay on this car, just to make it "right" was an exercise in futility. I didn't waste money - I wasted time and effort AND money in destructive testing. :D

The reason HID headlights ****es so many people off, is because people do not install them to comply with ADR's, they use junk plastic / polycarb relfectors with worse than poor beam scatter, and no cutoff, which blinds oncoming drivers.

When correctly installed, the HID headlights ARE effective, and they DO have excellent penetration - except when it is wet - which is the downside of all HID's - even the very expensive hella / denso projector designs.

So lets move forward, and slightly backwards at the same time.....

I happened to have another 107 - but it was an SLC.
when I bought it, it had the US style sealed beam (5.25") aka H1 separate low and separate high. Very uncommon.
125319

As you can see from the above picture, There is no doubt an opportunity exists to have an awesome incandescent setup... especially when you see 4 separate headlights...

which is why (if you look carefully) when this pic was taken after the setup was converted to H1 insert Hella reflectors, I am running a standard 'wide' high beam pattern on the "low" and a pin-beam (aka aircraft landing light) 100W insert on the "high" (the high beam is on the inside). Some fiddly stuff had to be done with mouting tabs on the reflectors to fit the high beam spread into the outer housings, but it wasn't major surgery, and could easily be swapped out.

These heavy parabolic hella reflector designs are incredibly powerful with long-throw, and when you use a proper 100W rally halogen globe in them, they are really somewhat ludicrous. We measured 2 lux @ 1.32km on a straight stretch of the old princes highway one night not long after installing them (2008). In fact, I have to say, they just about have to be the most pleasing setup I have ever used on a car, without having to bother resorting to driving lights..... on that car they were simply not needed - you could not 'outrun' or 'outdrive' that combination. and the fog lamps were plain 55W H3's fyi. Only ever used them for 'looks' [biggrin]

I specifically recall a late night trip home from canberra coming through the southern highlands with the worst winter pea-soup fog I have ever encountered. I couldnt see further than the middle of the broken centreline infront of the car. With the lights on the SLC, I was able to travel @ 40km/hr in relative safety, while most everyone else had parked up with flashing hazards, due to their inadequate lighting. The pin-beam landing lights are what made it possible, because they didn't have the broad scatter of the other beams.

Now, the interesting part for LR owners.

When I purchased the RRC in 2015, one of the first fixes was to replace the crappy 7" H4 inserts which were suffering from moisture damage on the internal reflector and bad haze on the other. Initially I swapped the standard 55/60 globes into some new Hella housings, and was happy - It was after all the very first 'personal touch' I did. It cleaned up the look of the car, and made it look 'new' - to me at least.

But then I discovered how pathetic the pommie wiring is. I expected a lot more from the lights, and knew they could be better - So I re-wired the car. Put in a second battery, isolator etc etc ad infinitum...

That also included some quite heavy gauge cable to the headlights with new ceramic H4 connectors, so all were now all high-current fused circuits on separate solid state relays for low and high beam on each side (4 relays) - because I was going to put in some massive wattage globes.

With that said, the lights were adjusted 'down a lot' to prevent oncoming dazzle - as I'm not the kind of bloke who likes to blind drivers - unless the idiots refuse to dip their beam... you know the kind of person I'm talking about, I am sure.

Again, Quite satisfied with the output - and I have covered it elsewhere on here. The globes were swapped a few times, until I found a set I was pleased with - ended up being 90/130W and then 110/160W when I was finally satisfied with the high beam dipping to low wasn't leaving me night-blind.
125325
But I was certainly not happy with the IPF driving lights.

So I replaced them with a pair of great whites LED's that I already had. I covered this elsewhere on here in another thread.
125324

The difference was immediately noticeable - the 160W H4's high beam was like a candle compared to these LED's but still obviously better than the standard. I was quite flabbergasted at the time, thinking how I believed that IPF made excellent offroad lighting products.... It was simply astounding the difference. and so was the cost!!!!
Which is why I will certainly caveat this monologue with the edict that at the time, I was prepared to spend the money on the highest quality I could afford - and even then I thought they were absurdly expensive...

Since then, I have had a lot of 'interesting' fun with the electricals - when the bridge rectifier avalanche diode pack somehow dead shorted across the windings and drained the battery almost overnight, and then 6 months later, the brand new replacement alternator internally dead-shorting the winding (heat from engine bay plus high current draw from lights + winching + fridge +trailer etc.) after driving through a puddle.... yes, a puddle on a sealed road - the kind that kids would stomp in to splash their friends.... [bigsad]

This has led in recent months to some changes in the electrical system as the replacement 120A lucas style alternator which failed- (piece of junk - made in australia too I might add.....) could not be rebuilt- (seriously wtf?) nonetheless, it presented an opportunity as no suitable replacement could be found, so I was credited with the funds - (a refund was offered) and I spent the money on a few "upgrades" (I still haven't found a suitably decent alternator - I'll probably modify a Mercedes one since I have a couple laying around)

The first was a set of Great whites LED 7" projector LED replacement headlamps, after testing them side by side on the car against the JW speaker evo 2's. The second was an LED light bar which I have not yet fitted.

I liked the JW speaker evo 2, but they simply could not match the beam accuracy of the great whites, had worse low beam scatter and weren't as bright (and they cost more at the time).

So, that's what sits on the front as of now - and the throw, the spread and the intensity is better than the 160w halogens.

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Now I'm a halogen fan. I like the natural tungsten filament glow.

BUT.

I also like to minimise my current draw, and like longevity that LED provides.

While I personally have had excellent results from Great Whites, I have other brand LED's on the vehicle and those are also high quality. The only incandescent globes that remain are the illumination for interior switches and cluster gauges - because I prefer it that way.

One day, I will probably revisit the love of incandescence. But not on the RRC. It is well equipped with more light than I need. In fact the second pair of driving lights are totally redundant since putting in the LED headlights - That is how seriously good the upgrade is. and You wouldn't just say that about a pair of 18LED driving lights unless you actually saw how good the headlamps are.

I'm always open to improving the lighting on my vehicles, and this is the best 4x4 setup I've installed to date. I know that I could have bought fyrlyts etc, but the current draw and voltage required to bump the lumen output up to the max was simply not worth it. With the LED's I have a warranty against failure, and a guarantee of tens of thousands of hours. They're probably going to outlast the vehicle - they have already outlasted one of them......

So as long as people understand that there are 'horses for courses' it is the same with HID, LED and Incandescent lighting. Each type of lighting has it's niche where it outshines the others. The problem is the differences are no longer 'massive' and the performance versus price versus quality argument is always going to be budget-oriented.

I would stick with incandescent globes if I was not running seriously evil gibber-laden tracks at night and my budget was limited.

I would install HID long-range pin beam driving lights, if I had a reasonable budget and wanted longevity and minimal maintenance (globe replacement).

I would install LED for spread-beam driving lights over incandescent or HID every single time.

I would install LED headlights, if I had a healthy budget - as the low-end ones simply do not cut the mustard with respect to performance, when you can get better output from a good standard hella h4 reflector and a pair of high quality halogen globes...

I don't feel that halogen driving lights represent value for money when you consider the electrical load for the equivalent light output these days. However, they DO have a more comfortable colour spectrum when compared to the poor balance of cheaper HID and LED products.

While my greatest bugbear is the intensity of LED reflective light from street / highway signs and other road furniture, the singular area which kept incandescent globes in my headlights, I have to say that the design, spread, light output and lack of dazzle in the 7" LED headlamps I haJe fitted a few months ago have far exceeded my requirements and I have to admit I am not looking back, and can see a lot further now

GOOD WRITEUP THANKS ......so which BRAND of LED HEADLIGHTS did you fit .....? Great white ?

[Mercguy]

Yes.

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[landoman]

I've got the Jw speakers and have to say they are great. I take them for granted but when I jump into a halogen headlight car is when I truly appreciate my headlights. Go for JW speaker and you won't be disappointed



Yes I still like the look of these ........is there a RHD and a LHD version as most US sites selling these don't mention it ....seems one size fits all ?

[austastar]

.....is there a RHD and a LHD version ......

Hi,
Yes, and only the RHD beam columnation matches the pattern prescribed for Australian Design Rules.
Non compliance is a serious traffic violation should you be caught.
Cheers

[numpty]

Ok thanks for that ....I already have my driving lights wired up to come on with high beam and to go off when I dip the high beam . They also have a switch on the dash that allows me to switch them them off .....this was done by an auto electrician who installed the driving lights .
will this complicate the fitting of the traxide dual kit .......also my driving lights have Deutch plugs will the Traxide kit have these

That's how your driving lights should be wired (by law) so no problems there.

It wont complicate the fitting of the Traxide kit as Tim supplies both a headlight upgrade or a headlight/driving light upgrade. So just get the headlight kit.

Tim uses spade connectors in his kits, but as said, that shouldn't be an issue.

[Pickles2]

Yes I still like the look of these ........is there a RHD and a LHD version as most US sites selling these don't mention it ....seems one size fits all ?
Check out the lights fitted in the Celebrity Edition Defenders,...I think they are "Nolden",....you could probably source them from JLR.
Pickles.

[landoman]

That's how your driving lights should be wired (by law) so no problems there.

It wont complicate the fitting of the Traxide kit as Tim supplies both a headlight upgrade or a headlight/driving light upgrade. So just get the headlight kit.

Tim uses spade connectors in his kits, but as said, that shouldn't be an issue.



So just be clear ......given my driving lights were well fitted and wired ....( with their own power wiring direct from the battery and I don't want to upset them as they work well .....can I fit the standard headlamp upgrade kit with out complicating my driving light set up
.....sent a few emails to Traxide but no response

[austastar]

Hi
I would imagine you could tap off from the main feed to your existing relay and take that through the Traxide relay, splitting off to 2 pairs of wires to the high and low beam of your existing lamps.
You would trigger this from the old light socket of the closest lamp which would now only supply current to the relay.

This is of course assumes the wire from your battery to your spot relay is capable of carrying the current.

The advantage of Tim's kit is that all the wires are coloured and shown in the circuit diagram where they go, so the wire rating is fit for purpose.
Cheers

[landoman]

Hi
I would imagine you could tap off from the main feed to your existing relay and take that through the Traxide relay, splitting off to 2 pairs of wires to the high and low beam of your existing lamps.
You would trigger this from the old light socket of the closest lamp which would now only supply current to the relay.

This is of course assumes the wire from your battery to your spot relay is capable of carrying the current.

The advantage of Tim's kit is that all the wires are coloured and shown in the circuit diagram where they go, so the wire rating is fit for purpose.
Cheers

Thanks for that ....

where does the power for the Traxide combined kit come from .......direct from the battery ? or does it tap into a source under the bonnet
Do you know if the Traxide kit comes with deutch plugs or would I need to wire these up to fit in the plugin deutch plugs on my driving lights

[DiscoMick]

You could just fit the Traxide headlight kit and leave your driving lights untouched.

[landoman]

You could just fit the Traxide headlight kit and leave your driving lights untouched.


Ok ta
thats what I want to do .......I'm assuming the Traxide headlights kit will integrate with my driving lights that are already wired up and work well so I don't want to mess with them unnecessarily

[drivesafe]

.I'm assuming the Traxide headlights kit will integrate with my driving lights that are already wired up
Hi Landoman,.if your driving light’s relay has been powered separately from your Headlight Switch, then there will be no problems fitting one of my Def-HWUK kits and your driving lights can easily be connected to operate via this kit.


One of the primary benefits of fitting one of my headlight kits to a Defender is to remove the high current load that is normally carried by the headlight switch.


With the load transferred to the relays, the current load on the Defender’s headlight switch goes from around 16 amps to less than 0.5 amps.


This not only dramatically improves the life span of the switch, but in many cases, even if the switch is no longer capable of directly powering the headlights, the switch can easily be repaired and will operate the headlights via the kits relays.


But as above, any existing driving lights, must already have a relay fitted and while it can be controlled via the existing Land Rover wiring, it MUST be powered by a separate power cable from the battery.


With one of my Def-COMBO kits, we now supply 2 x 8mm2 power cables to get the maximum gain in light output ( brightness ) from all lights fitted.


Also note, as has been pointed out earlier in this thread, once one of my kits are fitted, your existing lights will be so much brighter that you will probably not require to go the extra expense of fitting higher wattage globes.


But if you still want to fit higher wattage globes, my kits are designed to make this possible.


The headlight wiring in my kits are as thick as most wiring used in commercially sourced driving light kits and the driving light wiring in my kits is thicker than that found in commercially soured driving light kits.

[drivesafe]

Hi again Landoman and a suggestion for you.

If you get one of my kits, before fitting it, turn on your head lights and measure the voltage at your headlight globes.

Then once the kit is fitted, measure the voltage again.

This will show you how much of an improvement you will have gained.

[numpty]

So just be clear ......given my driving lights were well fitted and wired ....( with their own power wiring direct from the battery and I don't want to upset them as they work well .....can I fit the standard headlamp upgrade kit with out complicating my driving light set up
.....sent a few emails to Traxide but no response

I would say yes.

[landoman]

Had a good look under the bonnet today and pretty clear where I can mount the relay for the Traxide headlight upgrade kit ......also think I can source power from the battery rather than the starter or alternator as they seem difficult to access .... Hope the Traxide battery power wire is generous enough
to allow a bit of flexibility in routing

QUESTION .......Should lights be powered off the main battery ...or the auxiliary ( fridge ) battery ?
.......I'm assuming for safety reasons best to use the main battery given it's protected from complete rundown by the isolator on the auxiliary ?

Thanks again for all the great help ......this sort of stuff can be daunting when you look under the hood of a defender ...and not being all that technically minded .

[DiscoMick]

Starting battery definitely.
A cable route might be across the top of the firewall, down the passenger side to underneath, up through the round hole in the battery box. I have a UHF and a solar panel wire following that route.

[landoman]

Starting battery definitely.
A cable route might be across the top of the firewall, down the passenger side to underneath, up through the round hole in the battery box. I have a UHF and a solar panel wire following that route.


Thanks for that
still struggling where to fit the relay where it will be accessible ....the prime spot
is taken by my Winch isolation switch ..so looking for alternatives in limited space under defender bonnet .......

does anyone know the exact dimensions of the Traxide relay unit ...length from from screw mount to screw mount and breadth ..........?? .....I think I know a place it might fit

[austastar]

Hi,
Behind the LH headlamp is a horn for the alarm I think.
It has a built in mounting stud and nut going through a mounting point.
I mounted the two traxide relays on either side of a scrap of aluminium, wired them up, and put it back in the cavity, hanging of the horn stud and bolt mount.
I used the aluminium sheet as a mounting point for negative earth, with a wire going back to the engine block to eliminate voltage drop.
Cheers

[DiscoMick]

Thanks for that
still struggling where to fit the relay where it will be accessible ....the prime spot
is taken by my Winch isolation switch ..so looking for alternatives in limited space under defender bonnet .......

does anyone know the exact dimensions of the Traxide relay unit ...length from from screw mount to screw mount and breadth ..........?? .....I think I know a place it might fitBy prime spot do you mean under the inspection cover on the driver's side mudguard? That's my plan.

[landoman]

I now have my Traxide kit and sorted out where to fit it

before I fit I want to measure the voltage at the headlights and again after fitting the kit
to see what voltage delivery improvement is

what is the best way to measure the voltage ...Just put the two probes of the multimeter into the 3 pin light sockets ?

[jboot51]

with the lights turned on, see if you can measure at the back of the 3 pin socket, this will give a true reading.

[drivesafe]

Hi Landoman, as jboot51 posted, turn on your motor and have your headlights on high beam.

Having your headlights on high beam with draw the most current and give you an accurate idea of how much voltage drop you are experiencing.

Also, it is probably a lot easier to measure the voltage at one of your globe plugs because you will simply measure the voltage at the two side terminals of the three terminal headlight plug.

There are three terminals on the headlight plug, two side terinals and a top terminal.

One side terminal is the COMMON EARTH, the top terminal LOW BEAM POSITIVE and the other side terminal is HIGH BEAM POSITIVE.

NOTE, you do not need to know which side terminal is the COMMON EARTH and which is the HIGH BEAM terminal. Simply put either multi meter probe on either side terminal.

You will then get one of two readings on your multi meter, like " 12.05 " or " -12.05 ". Getting a MINUS " - " sign on a voltage reading simply means you probes are reversed but this is NOT a problem and the voltage NUMBERS will be exactly the same in either direction, just ignore the MINUS " - " sign.

Once you get the voltage reading at your headlight plug, leave the motor running and measure the voltage at the terminals of your cranking battery.

Then subtract the headlight value from the cranking battery, and there is your voltage drop.

EG. Say 12.05v at the headlight and 14.37v at the cranking battery, your voltage drop is 2.32v.

[Aldan]

I want to upgrade my defender headlights and have read many of the posts here and based on what I have found plus some other research it looks like I'm down to a choice of options

1) JW Speaker ....appears to be top of the line kit ....with good low beam and high beam performance
......but a tad hard on the wallet .....

2) A traxide light wiring loom upgrade ...plus better bulbs .( Phillips?? ).and a suitable reflector (ciebo )

3) crystal halogen headlight uograde ....from Rovercraft

4) xenon ultimate headlamp upgrade ......from Rovercraft

I can afford the J W Speaker .........but I have past experience and confidence in Traxide kits .....however I have no idea of how these different kits might deliver the best light ...........I am old with failing eyesight and need the best light I can get ........so not sure how I should choose ........comments ...experience .....suggestions welcome ..........


We have been very happy with Trucklights in our Puma MY14 110, We found them on eBay and ordered through a US supplier. I think they cost us around $650 for the pair.

[landoman]

Hi Landoman, as jboot51 posted, turn on your motor and have your headlights on high beam.

Having your headlights on high beam with draw the most current and give you an accurate idea of how much voltage drop you are experiencing.

Also, it is probably a lot easier to measure the voltage at one of your globe plugs because you will simply measure the voltage at the two side terminals of the three terminal headlight plug.

There are three terminals on the headlight plug, two side terinals and a top terminal.

One side terminal is the COMMON EARTH, the top terminal LOW BEAM POSITIVE and the other side terminal is HIGH BEAM POSITIVE.

NOTE, you do not need to know which side terminal is the COMMON EARTH and which is the HIGH BEAM terminal. Simply put either multi meter probe on either side terminal.

You will then get one of two readings on your multi meter, like " 12.05 " or " -12.05 ". Getting a MINUS " - " sign on a voltage reading simply means you probes are reversed but this is NOT a problem and the voltage NUMBERS will be exactly the same in either direction, just ignore the MINUS " - " sign.

Once you get the voltage reading at your headlight plug, leave the motor running and measure the voltage at the terminals of your cranking battery.

Then subtract the headlight value from the cranking battery, and there is your voltage drop.

EG. Say 12.05v at the headlight and 14.37v at the cranking battery, your voltage drop is 2.32v.


well measured the drop ....engine running ...headlights on beam .......
14.32 at both headlight plugs .......and 14.41 at the battery terminals ........not a big difference
.........have not fitted the new loom yet ......but with this result should it make much of a difference ?

I have ordered some Phillips H4 extreme 130 bulbs .....and hoping they will help too

[drivesafe]

Hi Lanoman, and I am not trying to be a smartA, but did you have the globes connected while you did the test, because those voltages are way above what would be expected.

[landoman]

Hi Lanoman, and I am not trying to be a smartA, but did you have the globes connected while you did the test, because those voltages are way above what would be expected.

Hi Tim ......you are being no more of a smart arse than I am an auto electrician ......
no I did not ....didn't know I was supposed to .......so do I take out the bulbs from the headlamp units and insert them in the 3 pin sockets ....so how do I then get the multimeter prope into the sockets ..or just take the reading off the pins where the come
out of the sockets ?

i checked those readings a number of times and without the bulbs that is what they are
........yes I was surprised ......but now you mention it do the globes cause the voltage to drop

appreciate your guidance as I'm a little stumbling through with out full understanding of what I'm doing

ps ...just read your instructions again and yes you mentioned the draw from the lights on high beam ........silly me measuring with out the draw from the bulbs .....ok to morrow I'll plug in the headlights and measure again .........

[drivesafe]

Hi Landoman and my apologies, I should have explained the testing procedure in more detail.

Let us know your findings tomorrow.

[landoman]

Hi Landoman and my apologies, I should have explained the testing procedure in more detail.

Let us know your findings tomorrow.

Ok remeasured with bulbs

battery = 14.2

passenger headlight = 12.87

Driver headlight = 12.93

will measure again when i fit the loom and new bulbs

[lebanon]

Starting battery definitely.
A cable route might be across the top of the firewall, down the passenger side to underneath, up through the round hole in the battery box. I have a UHF and a solar panel wire following that route.

A good source point is the feed cable of the starter motor, I installed a cable there with a 30 AMP fuse.

[landoman]

)Thinking of adding wipac crystal headlights to my traxide loom and brighter bulbs

what is the difference between these and the Land Rover OEMS ......are they clearer or a better quality reflector ?

don’t want to spend money on them if they no different to the OEMs

[jboot51]

Wipac crystal lights have the reflector at the rear with a clear lens. The give better a better spread and crisper lighting. Definite upgrade.
But they are all plastic so over time suffer the same problem as all new cars with yellowing/ hazing of the lens.

[landoman]

Wipac crystal lights have the reflector at the rear with a clear lens. The give better a better spread and crisper lighting. Definite upgrade.
But they are all plastic so over time suffer the same problem as all new cars with yellowing/ hazing of the lens.

Thanks a bunch
I’ll give them a go

[landoman]

Wipac crystal lights have the reflector at the rear with a clear lens. The give better a better spread and crisper lighting. Definite upgrade.
But they are all plastic so over time suffer the same problem as all new cars with yellowing/ hazing of the lens.

One other question ....the description of these wipac crystal lights says they are an upgrade to the SVX lights .........what does SVX mean.

[DieselDan]

Probably a reference to the 60th anniversary SVX Defender special edition which had a unique front grille and light arrangement.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210525/511840af545e1844a9c2ec97a84578dd.jpg

[landoman]

Probably a reference to the 60th anniversary SVX Defender special edition which had a unique front grille and light arrangement.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210525/511840af545e1844a9c2ec97a84578dd.jpg

I hope they fit standard 110 (2015) cos I’ve ordered them

[DieselDan]

Should be fine.
Headlights are the same (7"??) but the side lights and indicator were different.

[Baytown]

Great thread fellas!

I’m fitting the Traxide Headlight loom upgrade and am going to purchase a pair of JW Speaker J3 headlights with integrated DRL/indicators to freshen up/modernise my front end.

Im removing my Rhino Rack roof rack with my two full size ARB Intensity spot lights and will trial how the JWS head lights with the new loom upgrade and the ARB Intensity Pencil beam light bar suit my night driving needs.

Ive also purchased a Terrafirma Defender Spot light bar that mounts across the top of the windshield and weighs minimal that I can still mount my FM antenna to, Sand flag and my side illumination lights for camping so it cleans up the top of the vehicle, doesn’t carry dead weight around and negates the issues with insurance and roof rack off road weight carriage ratings which are a real thing now.

More to follow!
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[DDrew]

I just purchased and installed the Great Whites after reading Mercguy's informative post.

Excellent choice, couldn't be happier. Do it once and do it the right way! I already had the relays and upgraded wiring and can now see on low and high beam. Can't believe I survived this long on the original candles!