Series 2a LWB dead, ideas please

[landychris]

Bloody land rovers. [bigsad]
I have a Series 2a LWB wagon with an original landy six engine and it was running when I parked it four weeks ago. Went to start it yesterday and nothing.
SO, Battery? …..Charged it up and ok. Put it on a multimeter the next day and still holding 12.9 volts. BATTERY PACK to assist? ....nothing. Replaced the negative lead with a new one and cleaned up contacts…..nothing.
No sign of life not even in the lights or parkers, everything totally dead.
Can anyone give me some help and tell me where to from here?
landychris

[V8Ian]

Fusable link?

[JDNSW]

Get a voltmeter or test light, and find out where the open circuit is.

You replaced the negative lead, but does it go to the engine or the chassis? If it goes to the chassis, it needs a good connection between the engine and chassis to carry starter current. If it goes to the engine (or gearbox) it needs a good connection between the chassis and engine to enable anything going via the instrument panel to work.

Another possible issue could be the stack of connections on the starter solenoid positive connection.


(All descroiptions above assume a negative earth system - I am not certain all sixes were.)

[landychris]

Get a voltmeter or test light, and find out where the open circuit is.

You replaced the negative lead, but does it go to the engine or the chassis? If it goes to the chassis, it needs a good connection between the engine and chassis to carry starter current. If it goes to the engine (or gearbox) it needs a good connection between the chassis and engine to enable anything going via the instrument panel to work.

Another possible issue could be the stack of connections on the starter solenoid positive connection.


(All descroiptions above assume a negative earth system - I am not certain all sixes were.)

The negative lead was connected to its original position in the wagon, ie bottom of the seat box on one of the battery clamp bolt points. It has always been at this position and I have had the landy for over 30 years. Battery is neg to earth and the battery is in its original position under the passenger seat. If it was a starter only issue I would still have power to the lights, but I have nothing.
landychris

[landychris]

Fusable link?

Do they have one?:huh:
landychris

[Tins]

The negative lead was connected to its original position in the wagon, ie bottom of the seat box on one of the battery clamp bolt points. It has always been at this position and I have had the landy for over 30 years. Battery is neg to earth and the battery is in its original position under the passenger seat. If it was a starter only issue I would still have power to the lights, but I have nothing.
landychris

Dunno much about your car, but bear in mind that many cars take the feed for pretty much everything from the +ve terminal in the starter, so check that. Can you get a test light or voltmeter reading from that post on the starter and earth? To eliminate the earth, can you run a jumper between the -ve post on the battery to a god solid point on the engine and see what happens? The earth connection at the bottom of the seat box won't be the only one, there will be a cable or strap between the chassis and the engine or gearbox. Often it's connected to a bellhousing bolt, or a starter mounting bolt. If a bolt has dropped out then that could be the issue.

[trout1105]

It sounds like you have a problem with your ignition leads.
Check out the small wire that goes to your starter motor or it may simply be a fuse blown.
If you have No power going to the ignition the solenoid on the starter motor wont engage.

[V8Ian]

Do they have one?:huh:
landychris
:spudnikwhat: Just a suggestion, it's got to be something close to the battery, to take everything out.

[landychris]

:spudnikwhat: Just a suggestion, it's got to be something close to the battery, to take everything out.

The starter solenoid switch is in the battery box under the seat and that is ok. Will check the other earth straps tomorrow. (Fuel tank gauge, wiper motor, and starter motor).
Thanks
landychris

[landychris]

It sounds like you have a problem with your ignition leads.
Check out the small wire that goes to your starter motor or it may simply be a fuse blown.
If you have No power going to the ignition the solenoid on the starter motor wont engage.

I only have two fuses both are ok. With no power going to the ignition I still should have power to the lights.
landychris

[trout1105]

Check the wires on the back of your ignition switch .

[Tins]

I only have two fuses both are ok. With no power going to the ignition I still should have power to the lights.
landychris

Not if the main feed is open. This can be either the +ve cable, or the -ve earth. Both cause open circuit. Now, this may sound strange, but if the earth, for example, had dropped off, the car would likely still run until you turned it off, but not respond when you come back.

[Homestar]

IIRC the main power feed for the entire vehicle is attached to the starter where the main +Ve connects to it - the wire could have come out of the lug there, or more likely there is corrosion between the terminals there. Disconnect the battery and pull the lugs off the starter and clean them with some sandpaper and reassemble.

It will be something like a dry - high resistance - joint somewhere causing this.

Where are you located?

[V8Ian]

Remove one (either) fuse and place between the two proper positions, see if you have power then.

[landychris]

:BigThumb:Thanks all, will go through your ideas tomorrow.
landychris

[landychris]

I found another earth lead (braded) which went from a starter bolt to the chassis and cleaned it up, all ok there. I then connected a jumper lead from the battery to the chassis and checked lights etc.…nothing.
Have checked a few more things again, but as have broken a bone in my ankle and did some tendon damage a few weeks back, I am a bit restricted climbing in and under.
Any more ideas would be appreciated, I can’t drive for a few more weeks so I am restricted to sitting in the landy and going brumm, brumm, :lol2::burnrubber:only I wish it was the 2a making the sounds and not me.:(
landychris

[bblaze]

Beans might help
Put a positive jumper cable to the starter, positive wire to your positive of the coil, negative to the shiny bit on your block, now put power to the solenoid (they have a solinoind on the starter?), That should give you a better noise than beans. Could be a failed ign switch
cheers
blaze

[V8Ian]

Remove one (either) fuse and place between the two proper positions, see if you have power then.


Beans might help
Put a positive jumper cable to the starter, positive wire to your positive of the coil, negative to the shiny bit on your block, now put power to the solenoid (they have a solinoind on the starter?), That should give you a better noise than beans. Could be a failed ign switch
cheers
blaze
The ignition would have no effect on the lights would it?
My test will eliminate or confirm switch failure.

[landychris]

Remove one (either) fuse and place between the two proper positions, see if you have power then.

I put a test probe in a number of positions around the fuse box but no power.
No, the lights come on without the ignition, two position toggle switch. Instrument switch is the same. Remember the good old days when you had to have your parkers on at night if parked in the street. Pre Landies I had Morris Oxfords MO and MCV's. These had a pull switch on the rear that required the driver to step out, move to the back of the car, turn on the rear lights and jump back in. Front lights and parkers had their own internal switch, again not connected to ignition. Many was the time that I turned off the lights and forgot the rear.:bangin: Only to remember later in the evening.
landychris

[landychris]

The Landy has not been touched for 6 days. Turned the key today and it started :wallbash: Must be Landy Gremlins.

Might be a intermittent fault with the solenoid or ignition.

Thanks to all for your ideas.:TakeABow::BigThumb:
landychris