Series 1 Wheel Dilemma

[Mules]

Hi Folks,

I'm diving into a few jobs on my 54' Series 1 (86 inch), and one of the first jobs I need to do is to give a new lease of life to the wheels (sandblast + powder-coat) and fit new tyres so it can at least be driven safely.

As a farm vehicle in it's previous life, somewhere along the line the original wheels have been replaced by the Series II '272309' wheels, shod with 7.5x16 tyres. Funnily enough the spare wheel appears to be the original, which again presents me with a dilemma if I wish to keep everything matching.

Two questions - Does anybody in Perth have a spare 272309 wheel that they might be willing to part with? (or alternatively 4 original Series 1 wheels? - don't like my chances :).

Secondly - Although the 272309 wheel was designed with the 7.50's in mind, i was hoping on fitting 7.00 x 16's (if I could source them) to give the old girl slightly longer legs, as well as to reduce any chance of rubbing. Is this safe/advisable?



272309--Road wheel well type 5.50 x 16 (1&13/16 offset from rim centre) FITTED ALL AUST MILITARY VEHICLES 2/2a & Trailers.]


Apologies for raising up another thread on wheels / tyres, but I've gone through them all and I'm not satisfied that the answer is clear.

Despite an intrinsic distrust of Forums, I recognize that there are a lot of good Land Rover people out there with far more mechanical experience than myself, so I'll probably be asking many more questions.

Cheers

[JDNSW]

What you want are 231601, which remained standard on short wheelbase Series Landrovers right up to the end of Series production, although the wider ones which you have were optional on swb from Series 2 onward. Most Series 2, 2a and early 3 came with these , so there should be quite a few about.

[incisor]

Powder coating these old rims isn't as good as getting them done in 2pac or galvanised and painted

Not a mistake I'll make twice..

[cjc_td5]

Hi Folks,

I'm diving into a few jobs on my 54' Series 1 (86 inch), and one of the first jobs I need to do is to give a new lease of life to the wheels (sandblast + powder-coat) and fit new tyres so it can at least be driven safely.

As a farm vehicle in it's previous life, somewhere along the line the original wheels have been replaced by the Series II '272309' wheels, shod with 7.5x16 tyres. Funnily enough the spare wheel appears to be the original, which again presents me with a dilemma if I wish to keep everything matching.

Two questions - Does anybody in Perth have a spare 272309 wheel that they might be willing to part with? (or alternatively 4 original Series 1 wheels? - don't like my chances :).

Secondly - Although the 272309 wheel was designed with the 7.50's in mind, i was hoping on fitting 7.00 x 16's (if I could source them) to give the old girl slightly longer legs, as well as to reduce any chance of rubbing. Is this safe/advisable?



272309--Road wheel well type 5.50 x 16 (1&13/16 offset from rim centre) FITTED ALL AUST MILITARY VEHICLES 2/2a & Trailers.]


Apologies for raising up another thread on wheels / tyres, but I've gone through them all and I'm not satisfied that the answer is clear.

Despite an intrinsic distrust of Forums, I recognize that there are a lot of good Land Rover people out there with far more mechanical experience than myself, so I'll probably be asking many more questions.

Cheers

Hi mate.
There should be a few 272309 wheels floating about in Perth. Are you on Facebook and the West Oz Series group? A request there should turn up a wheel or two. If not, I can give you a couple of likely contacts.
I have run 205R16 tyres (equivalent to 6.5R16) on my 1954 86" previously but am just in the process of going to 7.00R16 tyres. I have a set of the 5.5" rims for them to go on. By all accounts the 86" will move the 7.00r16 tyres fine.

Re cleaning them up, I just hit them hard with a wire wheel on the grinder, then a couple of coats of rattle can hammertone silver. They come up great.

Cheers,
Chris

[Mules]

Hi Folks - Thanks for the input.

Incisor - good point. Powder coating is the lazy option. Thanks for the tip!

Chris - Hi mate no I'm not on Facebook or West Oz Series group I'm afraid. Perhaps I can look into the latter. Great to see you also have a 54' 86 inch! Are you able to PM regarding the contacts?

Ok so I take it fine to run 7.00's on the 5.5's then? I've got a 2 1/4 Series II engine so there's a bit more oomph than the original 2 litre.

Good point reference the grinder.... it would do wonders on mine, but I fear that they really do need a sandblast (water has pooled in those wheels for far too long).

Cheers

RDM

[cjc_td5]

No worries RDM. I'll dig out a couple of contacts for you.
Chris.

[numpty]

Hi Folks - Thanks for the input.

Incisor - good point. Powder coating is the lazy option. Thanks for the tip!

Chris - Hi mate no I'm not on Facebook or West Oz Series group I'm afraid. Perhaps I can look into the latter. Great to see you also have a 54' 86 inch! Are you able to PM regarding the contacts?

Ok so I take it fine to run 7.00's on the 5.5's then? I've got a 2 1/4 Series II engine so there's a bit more oomph than the original 2 litre.

Good point reference the grinder.... it would do wonders on mine, but I fear that they really do need a sandblast (water has pooled in those wheels for far too long).

Cheers

RDM

Have them sandblasted and primed and then just paint them. I've done a couple of sets like this and they come up a treat and last very well. After all, they were painted from the factory.

[Mules]

Have them sandblasted and primed and then just paint them. I've done a couple of sets like this and they come up a treat and last very well. After all, they were painted from the factory.
Thanks Numpty,

Will take your advice. I'll try and get my hands on a 5th wheel before they go off for sandblasting/prime/paint.

Now i need to find a new main gear lever!

[1950landy]

If you decide to go down the Galvanize then powder-coat way , you need to tell the galvanizer's you are powder coating them & not to quench them . When they get quenched the chemical they use in the quench will cause blisters that burst when they go into the oven during the powder coating process so you end up with craters in the paint surface. [bighmmm]

[pzs]

Thanks Numpty,

Will take your advice. I'll try and get my hands on a 5th wheel before they go off for sandblasting/prime/paint.

Now i need to find a new main gear lever!
Had mine powercoated, 5 rusty rims with at lest 5 coats of paint over the years, sand blasted and powered coated for around $300 or $60 each, they came up brilliant, cheap I think, your time it would take to grind sand wash undercoat, and 2 top coats then with a protective clear coat(optional), for the saving of maybe $150,

[Mules]

Cheers pzs and 1950landy,

Thanks for the pointers - well I know they need sandblasting at least! As for treatment afterwards, I guess I have time to decide until I get my hands on another 272309 wheel.

Then I'll start the hunt for tyres!

[1950landy]

The problem with Powder Coating is that it is porous so unless the correct primer coat is used they will rust under the Powder Coating & you won't know until it is too late . :(

[slug_burner]

You can get decorative and functional powders. Decorative are porous, functional finishes are used in marine industries and are not porous. If you go down the powder coat path speak to your painter and ensure he gives you the finish you require. Biggest issue I have experienced with powder coat is that like all hard finishes it chips with impact, as per stone chips. The metal surface is then open to the elements and a creeping rust that results in the coating flaking of.

Gal would work, I suspect the cost would be up with the powder coating costs or more.

I powdercoated a rim for a second spare for an outback trip, it looked good and it was done at a time when I did not have much time so just accepted the short comings. My bullbar is looking a bit taffy now that the powercoating is lifting due to the creeping rust.

[Mules]

Thanks Slug_burner, some sound advice.

Sorry for the late reply. Well, ended up having them sandblasted, 2 Pac epoxy primed and then painted black.

They look bloody superb, and should last for a long while. Will post photos when I get the chance... Mind you don't ask what it cost.

Now, just to find some damn 7.00 x 16 tyres.....

Cheers

RDM

[QRS40]

How did you go with tyres?
I have a similar circumstance- have 272309s (and a 2.25 motor) on my 80". And funnily enough also have an original 231601 as the spare!!??
I currently have a variety of 7.5s on it but they are all pretty knackered. I will probably end up just getting 7.5 Dunlop Road Grippers or similar, but tyre choice has been doing my head in, so really interested in how you have got on, and how it looks.

[cjc_td5]

I have a set of these on my 86".

Gt Radial X Grip - Tyrepower Manjimup (https://www.tyrepowermanjimup.com.au/tyres-manjimup/details/gt-radial/1583/x-grip)

Haven't been on-road yet but they work well off-road and certainly look the part.

[russellrovers]

Thanks Numpty,

Will take your advice. I'll try and get my hands on a 5th wheel before they go off for sandblasting/prime/paint.

Now i need to find a new main gear lever!hi i have a good used gear lever regards jim

[B.S.F.]

I have a set of these on my 86".

Gt Radial X Grip - Tyrepower Manjimup (https://www.tyrepowermanjimup.com.au/tyres-manjimup/details/gt-radial/1583/x-grip)

Haven't been on-road yet but they work well off-road and certainly look the part.

As you say, they work well off road. The compound is really too soft for road use and wears too quickly. After a 5000 km trip my new tyres were noticeably worn and I only got about 20000 km out of them. When new they pick up quite big stones that put dents in the mudguard. They are tough 8 PR tyres and in about 15 years I've only had one flat that was caused by outside elements, the rest was caused by incompetent tyre fitters and cheap quality tubes. (I now fit the tyres myself.) I still us a worn set for outback trips. They work well on bitumen, wet and dry, on dirt and sand. In mud would be a different story. But the roads usually get closed before it gets to that. For everyday use I use some cheap road tyres, I don't care about looks.
.W.

[Mules]

Hey folks,

Sorry for the late reply! I'm away with work atm, and poor on time.

QRS40 - funny you have the same wheel/tyre problem! Those GT Radial X Grips look pretty good, had I seen them before I probably would have gone that option. How did you go?

In any case, I got desperate and jumped on E-Bay, picking up 5 Drive Light Truck Tyres (approx $140 per tyre). They are 7.00R16 LT, 118/114 Load Index. I haven't installed them yet, so no idea how they will fair. But, they are better than my old tyres, and certainly look the part. Tread pattern seems to strike a good balance between on/off road. Let me know if you want a link. They only took a week or so to get trucked over from Sydney.

Hopefully the photos of the wheels and tyres come through....

Russelrovers- I have PM'd you regarding the lever, thanks.

Still need to find some quality tubes...

131409131410

[B.S.F.]

What's the ply rating (PR) of those tyres?
.W.

[Mules]

Hi B.S.F, sorry away with work atm.

Will check for you in a couple of weeks.

Cheers

[5380]

I have been chasing some tyres for my '55 107 that I can throw onto some 231601 SWB rims. I am currently using 700 x 16 tyres on my 80" fitted to 5.5" Defender rims. The 700x16s were an option on 80s and standard size on 107s. The 700s make the 80" a little bit more relaxed on the highway and give about 15mm more ground clearance over 600 x 16s. You may have to adjust the steering lock stops to avoid "polishing" the front leaf springs on full lock turns.
After much research, I have found that modern LT 215/85R16 tyres are very similar to 700 x 16 s and offer a wide range of HT, AT and MT tread pattterns. I will probably have to fit the 215/85s to the 5.5" rims as the 5.0" 231601 rims may no be in the reccomended rim width range for the 215/85s. I will post results when I get it done.

Cheers,

5380

[Mules]

Sorry B.S.F. - no excuse!

Probably didn't want to reply because turns out the ply rating is rather average! (4 in the tread, 1 in the sidewall!!). But, good enough for some occasional road driving in my case.

5380 - Thanks for the info - look forward to the results

Cheers

[B.S.F.]

Actual plys and ply rating (PR) are not the same . With a load index of 118/114 I would have expected quite a high PR.. I've got tyres that have got a load index of 117/116 and a PR of 12.
.W.

[LR1953]

My '53 with standard rims 231601 is fitted with 205/80 R16's. They happen to be Michelin 4x4 Synchrons. I put them on to replace 600 16 bar treads. Much better on the road, particularly wet sealed roads where bar treads are treacherous, and pretty good around the paddocks.
Cheers, Rob S

[Mules]

Actual plys and ply rating (PR) are not the same . With a load index of 118/114 I would have expected quite a high PR.. I've got tyres that have got a load index of 117/116 and a PR of 12.
.W.
Ahh wasn't aware, thanks - i will have to double check