300tdi heats up..

[sjd70]

When driving up long moderatly steep hills and the Glasshouse mountain ranges towing my 16 foot caravan, 30+ degree day and air con running the temp would gradually rise to the top of the "normal" part of the gauge.

I would then switch off the air con and the rise would slow. By the time I had got the top (luckily the hills were not too long) and the load was off the engine the temp would quickly drop back to normal.

This did not happen in the NSW ski fields during my recent winter trip nor when driving in soft sand (not towing of course). I have done 25K since picking up my Landie 12 months ago and she has never before shown any movement in the temp gauge.

Does my cooling system need a look at or is this completely normal and reasonable for my 300tdi auto disco?

[one_iota]

Hi Sid,

Manual or auto?

I had my radiator flushed at 120,000km this might help.

[sjd70]

Auto box.

Tended to start heating up at about 2800/ 3000 rpm in 2nd or 3rd. Especially when was under load. If you had some momentum/speed and the engine wasn't under heavy load the temp was fine.

Any ideas. Flush the radiator, new coolent, pressure test, check the water pump or am I expecting too much from the old girl given the above conditions?

[weeds]

although mine is a manual, the temp rises a few degrees when driving up long hills than goes back to normal on the other side of the hill

[Diff]

My TDI Auto only went into the red when climbing the range which we only do three time a year. Then the water pump bearing let go 4 hours from Brisbane 8O . While I had it apart I had the radiator dipped and put all new hose and of course water pump on. All up about $400 and the temp has never moved again https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ . The Disco at that stage had done about 145k.

Looking at it now the signs were there but I wasn't listening. Atleast now I have a complete set of hoses as spares and now alot more about the TDI.

You should also look for water leaking between the large plate that bolts the waterpump and alternator to the block as the gasket can weep and eventually cause more problems https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[sjd70]

Thanks for the feedback so far. I will have the mechanic have a close look at the cooling system next service.

I was just wondering if my symptoms were more normal or abnormal for a disco under these conditions?

Anyone else experienced a similiar situation?

Cheers

Sean

[PhilipA]

I suggest that you have the radiator dismantled and rodded. Rover radiators have very small tubes that get blocked easily by calcium deposits.

I do not think it is normal for any car to heat up climbing a mountain. It might be common to all the older discos , but its not right.
And make sure that they use demineralised water when they refill it.
Regards Philip A

[DEFENDERZOOK]

<span style="color:blue">what he said.....

the radiators on all cars need a service or replacement every so often....
they slowly clog up and restrict flow enough to raise the temperature under
heavy load.....such as long hills.....




you could try removing the radiator and filling it with coke......
let it sit overnight then rinse well with clean water.....
ive heard this works.....just like cleaning the old one and two cent pieces
in the good ol days.....

how many kms has that radiator done.......?</span>

[sjd70]

I am fairly sure that the radiator has never really been touched. It still has all sorts of original looking stickers all over it.
So that means that the radiator has done 250 000kms!!!

Is the consensus that the radiator simply needs a service?

Sounds like an easy place to start anyway.

Thanks all.

Cheers

Sean

[PhilipA]

Seeing the diesels have a small radiator, it needs more than a backflush. You need to be firm and insist on dismantle and rod. You may lose the core if the crap is all that holding it together But that is in the hands of the Gods.
Regard s Philip A

[sjd70]

Thanks PhillipA.

I think that's the best path. Especially since I live in the tropics, like my AC and tow a van!

What kind of dollars would I expect to pay for this job?

Thanks

Sean

[PhilipA]

$80-100 for rod and if core needs replacing about $400-500.

I haven't had it done for several years so you may have to add a percentage.
Regards Philip A

[YRVGreen]

has anyone fitted a bigger radiators?
I had a long tow from sydney in the heat yesturday, and noticed it got hot a few times on the steep hill climbs, so I did the poor mans cooler trick, turned the heater right up and opened the windows,..

But still she had me worried, since we have only had this defender tdi300 for a few days

[sjd70]

YRVGreen.. Good question.

Is there a larger or more efficient aftermarket radiator to suit disco and/or defender? If so where and how much?

I think it would have to be thicker as width ways the intercooler would be in the way??!!

Any thoughts?

Sean

[George130]

Originally posted by YRVGreen
has anyone fitted a bigger radiators?
I had a long tow from sydney in the heat yesturday, and noticed it got hot a few times on the steep hill climbs, so I did the poor mans cooler trick, turned the heater right up and opened the windows,..

But still she had me worried, since we have only had this defender tdi300 for a few days

I was just quoted $890 to build a bigger radiator for my TD5.

sjd70
Shows how stressed ive been with mine as I didn't notice your post. My overheating problem seems to have been the water pump. Never any visible leak exept from the expansion tank but the spindle had worn so it was sucking in air and jamming the thermostat causing it to over heat. Mine was only overheating under load at first but quickly deteriated especialy when my thermostat also failed while up at ace's.
The radiator sujestions are also a good point to start with. For your info mine passed pressure tests. I would accept some rise in temp but not up near the red!
Sujestions I got were:
Faulty cap
blocked radiator
Blown Head
Blocked water galeries in the engine
Bottom radiator hose collapsing under load

[one_iota]

I might add that water pumps for a Tdi are cheap and together with the gasket and also check the bolts. Replacement is recommended as routine procedure. It is easy to do. https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[CraigE]

For a biggeror better radiator try www.pwr.com.au (http://www.pwr.com.au) Paul wheel Racing, they may have something.

[sjd70]

Thanks for you ideas George130.

I think this problem needs an experience head to nut it out. The symptoms I have could be caused by all of the things mentioned. I think I will start with the easier ones and let the mechanic exclude the harder ones at service time.

Where did you get the radiator made?

Sean

[sjd70]

Thanks for the website CraigE.

I think I recall seeing those guys mentioned in a recent magazine article.

Sean

[George130]

Originally posted by sjd70
Thanks for you ideas George130.

I think this problem needs an experience head to nut it out. The symptoms I have could be caused by all of the things mentioned. I think I will start with the easier ones and let the mechanic exclude the harder ones at service time.

Where did you get the radiator made?

Sean

I didn't end up getting the radiator built as I was still fault finding but I talked to the guy about what it would cost and what options I had.
They are located in Canberra
Renner Radiator PTY LTD
Unit 2/34 Isa st Fyshwick ACT 2609
ph 02 6280 7505
fax 02 6280 5684

[rick130]

I've just found something that can have tragic consequences to your engines health.
In the Tridon ('03), Stant ('00) and Dayco ('04) catalogues,the wrong thermostat is listed for the 300Tdi !
They all list one that is 54mm OD (the correct one is 52mm), with a by-pass shut-off valve height of 35mm (OE= 40mm) and a valve diameter of 27.5mm (OE 33mm)
The consequences of this are that the by-pass valve probably won't close the by-pass off !

Interesting that Tridon make a small selection of high volume t/stats that use a 34mm valve vs most OE's of 29mm. Shame they don't make one to suit a 300Tdi or Td5.