Seeking repair advice

[Simon]

I put a bit of a dent in my 2013 110 last weekend. Just wondering what work might be involved in replacing the panel / vertical capping so I can have a sensible conversation getting quotes from the panel shop.

Any recommendactions for a shop in / near the Eastern Suburbs of Sydney that knows Land Rivers gratefully appreciated.

Corner bumpers will be fitted as soon as the repair is completed!!

Cheers

Simon

[Robmacca]

Keenly watching this as the corner of mine also needs some TLC as well.... I'm planning of sheeting it in some Checker plate but the ally panel seems that it will might need some shrinking 1st....

[Dervish]

Forget about replacing the panel; much easier to replace the tub, and you don't want to hear a quote for that. The dents will have to be straightened as best they can and then filled. Replacing the capping is simple though - it's a matter of removing the lights then drilling out the rivets, then the reverse process with the new one. About 30mins work.

Personally I would straighten out the panel as best I could, have it painted (without bog) and replace the capping.

[Gordie]

I did that to a 2a many years ago. Had it beaten and bogged up and it looked fine. Depends how much of a purist you are I suppose.

[Simon]

Thanks for the replies.

Hadnt thought about some checker plate.

I'm not that much of a purist, there is a small ding in the bonnet that I have kept as it is a memory of a good trip and not that noticeable. This one however is a memory I would rather forget, had already done the hard stuff (Monkey Gum for those familiar in NSW) and just dropped into a hole on the easy section out.

My insurance co has confirmed I am covered so if I go full fix my personal cost is the excess (and then whatever extra premium they bleed me for in the future)

Dervish, forgive my ignorance, what do you mean by replace the tub?

[Gordie]

Thanks for the replies.

Hadnt thought about some checker plate.

I'm not that much of a purist, there is a small ding in the bonnet that I have kept as it is a memory of a good trip and not that noticeable. This one however is a memory I would rather forget, had already done the hard stuff (Monkey Gum for those familiar in NSW) and just dropped into a hole on the easy section out.

My insurance co has confirmed I am covered so if I go full fix my personal cost is the excess (and then whatever extra premium they bleed me for in the future)

Dervish, forgive my ignorance, what do you mean by replace the tub?Insurance paying...put it right at all costs then!! Dervish means whole rear end by 'tub'. (from rear of cab back).

[Dervish]

Dervish, forgive my ignorance, what do you mean by replace the tub?

The tub is the whole of the rear of the bodywork under the sliding window panels. It is all spot welded together such that no panel beater would attempt to separate parts of it to replace. Given that is the case, your options are to replace the whole tub - which requires mass disassembly of your Defer - or repair in situ.

[Simon]

Ah, I understand now, sounds rather extreme, even for an insurance claim

Must admit I'm now seriously thinking whether pulling it as flat as possible and then putting checkerplate on it would be the best option, perhaps cheaper than my excess too.

The vertical capping goes up under the top capping, is it welded / riveted under there or should it just slide down and out once all the visible rivets are drilled out?

[Dervish]

The vertical capping goes up under the top capping, is it welded / riveted under there or should it just slide down and out once all the visible rivets are drilled out?

It slides down and out.

[Simon]

Thanks Dervish.

If I go the checkerplate route I will try to post up some pics as we go.

Any other tips would be gratefully welcomed, I thought I would be working on my 110 from time to time, but didn't expect it to be panel beating......

[JDNSW]

Watch out if you go the full insurance repair route - it would be quite possible for them to write off the vehicle for that sort of a repair, especially if there is difficulty finding a repairer they like that is prepared to look at it!

[Simon]

That's a bit scary, to risk a write off of a 3yr old vehicle for a dent! It's making the checkerplate option sound ever more tempting.

[Simon]

Sorry, 4yr old, cant count this morning

[jon3950]

This is the mob JLR use:
Prestige Auto (http://www.prestigeautosalon.com.au)

Haven't used them myself, but have had them recommended for Defender work.

Cheers,
Jon

[Xtreme]

I recently had two doors, a sill panel and the rear quarter panel on a 13 year old Defender replaced due to a 'not at fault' hit by a runaway driverless Subaru. The rear quarter panel is supplied complete with the wheel arch/internal side seat box. Not an easy job according to the repairer, Nathans Smash Repairs at Mulgrave who did an excellent job and kept me informed of progress all along the way - highly recommended. They are also used by JLR and a number of LR Dealers.
Cost of repair was in excess of $14K but fortunately cost me zilch, even with a prestige loan car while repairs were being done.

Here's a pic of the (slight) damage ...... 126072

[Simon]

Thanks for all the advice and recommendations, really appreciate the help.

I've decided to go checkerplate, had a look at some today and it will mask the bent panel section completely.

After that it's getting some bumperettes from Expedition Centre (Daniel / Mulgo).

No doubt I will then never hit the corners again, but find somewhere else to leave a mark.......

[Simon]

Another quick question, as a couple of rivets will need to be drilled out and replaced

Are they any special type of rivet?

(No prizes for guessing I am in the early steps of learning repair work.....)

Cheers

Simon

[Dervish]

Another quick question, as a couple of rivets will need to be drilled out and replaced

Are they any special type of rivet?

(No prizes for guessing I am in the early steps of learning repair work.....)

Cheers

Simon

I use these: Zenith 6.4 Sealed Aluminium Blind Rivets | Bunnings Warehouse (https://www.bunnings.com.au/zenith-6-4-sealed-aluminium-blind-rivets_p2463030)

They are 4.8mm diameter, aluminium and sealed. There are longer ones available (i.e. these (https://www.bunnings.com.au/zenith-6-6-sealed-aluminium-blind-rivets_p2463048)), but I haven't found a need for the extra length yet.

[Simon]

Cheers, couldn't get the sealed ones at my local Bunning so went the unsealed version.

Drilled out the rivet where the capping had split and realised the capping is cactus, stretched and deformed so won't just push back into place.

Looks like I'll need to replace the capping. Might be for the best as the paint on it has cracked and chipped anyway.

What do you reckon is best, get the capping painted before installing, or install first (I'm not too fussed at having the silver rivet heads exposed)

[jimr1]

If I can make another surgestion , try a sheet metal workshop , prefrably one that make ducting. There alwas repairing ducting that drops , I'v seen ducting that you wouldn't believe has been repaired . I know the panels are Alluminion and streches , but so does sheet steel. Good luck Jim .