Rebus is ALIVE!!!

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

Over 12 months ago Rebus' distributor hold down bolt worked itself loose; the old mechanical fuel pump was well and truly on its way out too. Then the starter motor died. Then my work contract ran out in October 2015. So for the rest of 2015 and all of 2016 found all work stopped on Rebus.

In April this year I started working again! I replaced the mechanical fuel pump with a Facet Electronic Fuel pump and I installed a set of new fuel lines. Over a period of time I eventually tracked down the correct Stromberg carburettor for the Holden 202 red motor that was manufactured in 1977. When I bought Rebus off the previous owner it arrived with a carburettor off a Holden 161 cubic inch motor instead of a 202 cubic inch motor. The previous owner described how during highway drives the engine seemed like it was sometimes starved of fuel.

Today I set about finding Top Dead Centre. The turning the fan by hand technique so the motor turns over without the spark plugs installed did not work. So with the aid of three bolts threaded into the harmonic balancer I used a steel bar between the bolts so I could turn the engine over. TDC found I lifted and lowered the new electronic distributor - a Bosch clone using Bosch parts - until the rotor button was located at 5:00 o'clock mark. The Old Holden website mentioned that electronic distributors have Piston 1 at 5:00 o'clock and the old points distributor has Piston 1 at 3:00 o'clock. This was damned handy information to have! The information was sourced from the GMH Torana forum - turns out it is highly likely that with the engine number being XQL the donor car was a Torana. Accessed July 23, 2017 from Holden Rotor Button Position - Engine - GMH-Torana (http://www.gmh-torana.com.au/forums/topic/59918-holden-rotor-button-position/#entry669124).

So following the advice from the GMH Torana post and the nice close up photograph supplied ....Holden Rotor Button Position - Engine - GMH-Torana (http://www.gmh-torana.com.au/forums/topic/59918-holden-rotor-button-position/#entry669053).

I turned the key and waited to the change of pitch in the electronic fuel pump and then turned the key.

This is what happened next ... Rebus Lives - YouTube (https://youtu.be/uFb8iba-TYs)

While the engine was ticking away I noticed that fuel was dripping down from the main float section of the carburettor. I will take the top off and see if I can adjust the float to reduce the amount of fuel. I will have to sort because fuel dripping down over the hot exhaust manifold is something that takes precedence over fine tuning the motor with the timing light.

If adjusting the float in the carburettor does not fix the leak I willl have to research what the flow rate out of the original A/C Delco glass bowl mechanical fuel pump is. I may have to install a flow rate device and the check to see if the Holley fuel pressure regulator needs to be re-adjusted to keep it set at a steady 4.5 psi that the Holden Stromberg carburettor prefers.

Anyway, it is great to have Rebus back into the world of the living again.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

I opened up my copy of the FB/EK Holden Stromberg Carburettor Enthusiasts Guide (p. 53) and also found the specifications for my Facet Cube fuel pump. The fuel pump is rated at flow of 32 US Gallons per Hour. Then after a quick conversion from US Gallons to Imperial I found this little bit of information






Fuel Pump





Maximum Pressure (psi)




Free Flow (GPH)




Early Holden (grey/red glass bowl)


4½





9 (Imperial)





Facet FAC-40106


Set to 4½





27 Gallons per Hour (Imperial)






Stromberg Carburettor details Carburettor Guide | Throttle | Carburetor (http://www.scribd.com/doc/68315221/Carburettor-Guide)

Facet Fuel pump specifications Accessed July 23, 2017 from, FACET Solid State Fuel Pump 40106 4.0-7.0psi (http://www.fuelpumpsonline.co.uk/facet-solid-state-fuel-pump-40106-40-70psi-7-p.asp)

Just going off the comparison the Stromberg Carburettor is getting three times the prescribed amount of fuel per hour than what the FB/EK Holden Stromberg Carburettor Enthusiasts Guide recommends.

I found plenty of fuel pressure regulators online. However, I have not come across any component that offers an adjustable flow rate.

Has anyone come across one somewhere?



Kind Regards
Lionel

[bee utey]

Free Flow (GPH)

Rated free flow rate is of course a maximum, a pump with a closed off outlet could still generate 4.5psi with zero flow rate. These things are not constant displacement like a vane pump. A pressure regulator is all you need, or a return line to the tank to bleed off excess pressure. I used to fit 3/16" metal return lines to certain vehicles to reduce the chance of vapour lock and flooding. Dead easy to do with a suitable tee piece or two.

[Lionelgee]

Hello BeeUtey and All,

Thank you for the information about the fuel supply.

When the Holden motor was put into the Series III the conversion place fitted a Dellorto Throttle wheel onto the carburettor. The throttle cable is fixed by a hex head bolt that initially goes through the throttle wheel. The cable itself threads through a hole in the threaded part of the bolt. The cable is then mounted to a hole drilled through a piece of angle iron via another hex bolt with a brazed fitting. The cable slides through the brazed fitting.

A similar brazed bolt connects the cable to the original Land Rover rod linkages which lead back to accelerator pedal. The rod to cable conversion is held in place by another length of angle iron.

The car will need a full inspection and road worthy because it has been unregistered for a number of years. Should I replace the bodgey hex bolt adaptation with something like a factory manufactured throttle adjustment like the one in the second photograph - that were made for a motorcycle hand lever?

The first two photographs are examples of the Delltoro throttle wheel

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

After some tinkering and numerous attempts to get the one adjustment on the accelerator cable I can now turn on the key and get the engine running. I can step down on the accelerator pedal and then have it return to idle all by itself. So for the first time in what must be close to two years I took Rebus for three drives in the paddock. One of these rounds of the paddock was done under lights.

I will be installing the motor bike brake/clutch cable adjusters so that it is going to be easier to fine tune things. At the moment the only adjustment is pulling the end of the cable with a pair of pliers and then tightening the single cable pinch bolt. It is a very hit an miss affair at the moment. The motor bike cable adjusters are going to be more user friendly.

Next task after that is to bolt some metal plate cross pieces on to the angle iron with two holes drilled into the steel. These holes will allow me to hook two new throttle return springs near the swivel point of the original Land Rover accelerator mechanical linkages.

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

I used Rebus to shift two loads of pruned branches from near the house to where I formed a new pile in the paddock. During the process I noticed that there was a distinct Eau De Parfum of burning clutch. Also, the feeling of trying to overcome a very well bedded-in hand brake before any initial forward or reverse movement occurred. Trouble is the hand brake was not on at all.

Looks like - from the smoke; and smells like a new clutch, including the hydraulics for the system is on the cards. Plus a dressing of the flywheel while I am it. The again - who knows how long ago the system was last overhauled?

Yesterday I found some rust in the firewall driver's and passenger's side down low on the floor and side where it connects to the pillar that the door hinges fix to.

Gee you just have to love these old cars!!! Get one thing sorted out and then something else calls for attention. [bigwhistle]

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

G'day Dennis,

Thanks for the insight into the linkages over on Garry Treen's thread. My 202 cubic inch motor was made in late 1977. When I bought the vehicle off the previous owner it had a carburettor fitted off a HR with a carburettor. that was originally fitted to a 161 cubic inch engine.

The cable arrangement it came with is pretty dodgy. I will have a go at improving the cable system first. If it does not work out for the best I will investigate the mechanical linkage system.

It will be after my getting a new clutch. Well once I remove the current one and work out which parts of the clutch for the engine conversion are Holden parts and Land Rover clutch and flywheel parts??? The fun of engine conversion vehicles.

The research I have done in other threads leans heavily towards all Holden parts. However, some people do mention possible mixes between Holden and Land Rover or other English manufacturer's parts. If the parts do not have the nice words like "Holden" or "Land Rover" stamped on them I will be taking the old clutch parts down to the local Clutch and Brake place. There are some older gents there who should be able to accurately identify which parts I should be ordering.

Taking the clutch out is the project for tomorrow. With the parts identified I hope to have the clutch and brakes sorted out in a couple of weeks. After that a new exhaust system .... then some rust in the body cut out and welded... then Do the leaf shackles .... then sew up some new upholstery for the seats .... then...

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Pedro_The_Swift]

and you knew this was coming Lionelgee---- [biggrin]
:ttiwwp:

[Lionelgee]

and you knew this was coming Lionelgee---- [biggrin]
:ttiwwp:

Hello Pedro,

Perhaps you could scroll down a wee bit and have a look at my entry for 24th July 2017, 08:22 PM ....

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Garry Treen]

Hi Lionel

Hope these photos are what you were looking for. If not let me know and I can take some others.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/324.jpg
looks like they only put one bolt into bulkhead.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/325.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/326.jpg

[Lionelgee]

Hello Gary,

Thank you very much for the photographs. It sure looks more complex then the cable system I inherited from Rebus' previous owner.

Correct me if I am wrong...
1) the linkage from the horizontal rod that runs parallel to the fire wall rotates up and down as the accelerator pedal is moved forward and back.

The second mechanical linkage rod that runs parallel to the passenger side mudguard is rotated via a clamp that comes off the horizontal rod (1). The clamp is located before the end of the inlet manifold.

The 90 degree bend closest to the carburettor moves the bracket that is position on the accelerator shaft of the carburettor causing it to move in an arc.

Is this correct or am I making things up?

Thanks again for the photographs [bigsmile1]

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

After I identified a list of things that needs to be done on Rebus in an earlier post I finished with the series of three dots ... meaning more things to come; or a continuation. Well I will not be doing that again! They attracted something else. When I went under the car to remove the bolts off the conversion adaptor I took the opportunity to check the universal joints in the front and rear drive shafts. Very Icky.

No photographs to show because I did not get as far advanced as I thought I would. I had figured that there may be sufficient space between the unfastened gearbox and the conversion adaptor to get access to the clutch - without taking out the seat box. The "Green Bible" - Land Rover Series III Repair Operation Manual say that you can access the clutch - without needing to remove the seat-box (p. 33 - 1). However, they do not add the width of the Holden engine to Land Rover gearbox in their instructions.

Gee aren't the four bolts at the back of the ute body user friendly to access so they can be undone! NOT!!!

I do know where four captive nuts would have been damn handy though. Seat box is now off and out of the Rebus.

The previous owner mentioned that the gear stick would jump out of gear when decelerating when cruising on a flat or going down a slope. Since the seat box is out and all the connections off the gearbox I may take the opportunity to lift the gearbox out. Whilst out I may either swap it for another box or I could become familiar with the bowels of the Series III gearbox.

With the gearbox totally out of the way I will have lots more access to the clutch and flywheel. I will then be able to set up a measuring gauge and check the alignment as per the suggestion of the sticky about alignment and Holden engines. One of my spares vehicles has a complete gearbox and some funny looking appendage - a Fairey overdrive. However, this vehicle had a Holden engine conversion that I have never driven - so it is an unknown quality.

Dark arrived before I could start removing the clutch. Its removal and photographs will have to wait until next weekend.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All, Especially Pedro the Swift,

Here are three photographs of the accelerator cable arrangement. The first photograph shows the transition from Land Rover mechanical linkage rods to the cable via a brazed nut and a length of angle iron.

The second photograph shows the arc the accelerator cable travels through towards the radiator before bending back under the air cleaner to another piece of angle iron fixed by an manifold bolt. The outer sheath is held between two brazed nuts. The cable itself then extends to the Dellorto accelerator wheel.

The third photograph shows the pin on the end of the cable that is held by a bolt with a hole drilled through it. The bolt itself is fixed to the Dellorto accelerator wheel.

See Pedro - some photographs [bigwhistle]

I have to make a couple of more brackets in the area shown in the first photograph that I can use to fix two throttle return springs to. At the moment the only return spring is on the carburettor. The single spring is not enough because I have to flick the accelerator pedal back up with the toe of my boot once I take my foot off the pedal. The previous owner had a spring tie wired to the Land Rover mechanical linkage on one end of the spring. The other end of the spring was secured by a cable tie. Not sure if the vehicle inspector will be happy about that arrangement!

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Garry Treen]

Hello Gary,

Thank you very much for the photographs. It sure looks more complex then the cable system I inherited from Rebus' previous owner.

Had another look at it today. When I first picked "Forrest" up from his previous owner, some of these bits were hanging loose and I didn't notice till I got it home and had another look in better light.

Correct me if I am wrong...
1) the linkage from the horizontal rod that runs parallel to the fire wall rotates up and down as the accelerator pedal is moved forward and back. - Yes, that is correct.

The second mechanical linkage rod that runs parallel to the passenger side mudguard is rotated via a clamp that comes off the horizontal rod (1). The clamp is located before the end of the inlet manifold. - Yes, that's correct.

The 90 degree bend closest to the carburettor moves the bracket that is position on the accelerator shaft of the carburettor causing it to move in an arc. - Yes, and the rod has been welded to the bracket on the carbi. I feel it's a bit agricultural and needs a bit of work to make it function better. It doesn't help that the bracket on the bulkhead is missing a bolt. The intentions were good but it's just not working.

Is this correct or am I making things up?

Thanks again for the photographs [bigsmile1] You're welcome.

Kind Regards
Lionel

o

[Lionelgee]

Hello Gary,

Thank you for the confirmation of what rod linkage goes where and does what - it is much appreciated.

I will document my attempts at improving Rebus' accelerator cable system and I will post up some photographs in the future. The Dellorto accelerator wheel is readily available from performance vehicle parts suppliers - even on eBay. The other main parts are two pieces of angle iron. A couple of bolts with holes drilled in them. A length of motor cycle clutch/brake cable and some hand grip based cable adjusters.

I am going to try and track down what cable system the HJ Holdens had to see if it can produce a slightly more professional appearance.

All this accelerator stuff will have to wait though, until after I sort out the clutch system and brakes. Oh and yes the universal joints in the drive shafts too.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

I picked up Rebus' freshly machined flywheel on Monday. The only trouble is that I have Rebus on ramps outside in the yard. Because the past fortnight has had lots of rainy days - particularly on Saturdays, I now have a swimming pool under the vehicle.

The gear box that Rebus had in it had some issues with jumping out of gear so there could be some Holden engine to Land Rover converter plate alignment issues. I have some spare gearboxes. I will check the alignment using the recommended engineering gauge to and the put in another gearbox of unknown quality and having to cross my fingers that it was okay.

I was reversing my daily driver into the shed today and saw in my rear-view mirrors the 2.6 litre six cylinder engine that I have mounted in a hardwood engine frame. The engine lives at the back of the shed just behind my car. I put swivel wheels on the engine frame so it can be moved around easily.

I will have a go at making an extra frame to support a gearbox to prevent the whole lot tipping over on me. The rig will allow me to warm up and test each gearbox while the engine is running. I can then sort the good gearboxes from the not so good ones. All done without my having to manoeuvre each box inside the cabin and my fitting them to Rebus.

Once I have found a good gearbox and replaced the gaskets and the oil; what other maintenance tasks should be done before fitting the gearbox permanently to Rebus?

Kind Regards
Lionel

[gromit]

I will have a go at making an extra frame to support a gearbox to prevent the whole lot tipping over on me. The rig will allow me to warm up and test each gearbox while the engine is running. I can then sort the good gearboxes from the not so good ones.

Lionel,
Unless you can put some 'load' on the gearbox I'm not sure your testing will confirm that the box is OK.
It may help you detect a major problem or gear selection issue (how will you operate the clutch ?) but jumping out of gear might not be replicated without load being applied. Operating the handbrake (if you can rig something up) may help.


Colin

[Lionelgee]

Lionel,
Unless you can put some 'load' on the gearbox I'm not sure your testing will confirm that the box is OK.
It may help you detect a major problem or gear selection issue (how will you operate the clutch ?) but jumping out of gear might not be replicated without load being applied. Operating the handbrake (if you can rig something up) may help.


Colin

Hello Colin,

Thanks for your contribution about adding load. I was going to add a bracket on the frame to fit the clutch pedal box and master cylinder too. Another option I have is to fit the engine and gearboxes to a spare rolling chassis. It would still be easier than manoeuvring a gearbox inside a cabin; only to then find out that it needs work too. Who knows I could go all safety minded and get the brakes working on the chassis too! Clip on a seat and off into the paddock I go!

Kind Regards
Lionel

[gromit]

Hello Colin,

Thanks for your contribution about adding load. I was going to add a bracket on the frame to fit the clutch pedal box and master cylinder too. Another option I have is to fit the engine and gearboxes to a spare rolling chassis. It would still be easier than manoeuvring a gearbox inside a cabin; only to then find out that it needs work too. Who knows I could go all safety minded and get the brakes working on the chassis too! Clip on a seat and off into the paddock I go!

Kind Regards
Lionel

Lionel,

Fitting to a rolling chassis sounds like a better idea. Slightly more work but a chance to give a real test of the box.


Colin

[Lionelgee]

Lionel,

Fitting to a rolling chassis sounds like a better idea. Slightly more work but a chance to give a real test of the box.


Colin

Hello Colin,

It would have been good have done an apprenticeship in mechanics. It would have involved the study what makes a good gearbox and what indicates a gearbox is shagged. I turn 55 years of age next week - so I figure I have missed the opportunity of an apprenticeship!

The only hints I can think of is when the oil is drained out of a gearbox and it has lots of little bits of metal come out with the oil - that this event it is not a good thing. Similarly, if you take the inspection covers off and bits are sitting in the bottom of the box it - this too is not a good sign either.

Nor, do I have the knowledge to be able to pick out a worn gear unless bits of teeth are missing off it; or the metal has turned a shade of blue - indicating severe overheating. I would need to see a brand new gear sprocket and compare it with the one fitted to one of my gearboxes to tell if there has been too much wear.

Did all the photographs of your disassembling and rebuilding a gearbox get reloaded? At the moment I will just remove covers; check inside and hook them up to be tested - who knows a really good gearbox might show itself to me.

Once Rebus is under its own locomotion again I will see if I can overhaul the gearbox that I took out because it had issues.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[gromit]

Did all the photographs of your disassembling and rebuilding a gearbox get reloaded? At the moment I will just remove covers; check inside and hook them up to be tested - who knows a really good gearbox might show itself to me.



Lionel,

I must get back to re-loading the photographs.
I didn't do an apprenticeship but did work in engineering after going to Polytechnic in the UK. Mostly self taught from books, magazines and speaking to more experienced people (didn't have the internet way back then). Also learnt a lot by making mistakes.......

Wallit's gearbox was the first car one I've stripped & re-built, done lots of motorcycle gearboxes over the years though. Only did Wallit's gearbox because broken synchro springs were found in the bottom.

Lots of things other than the obvious to check for like wear on the synchro's, endfloat etc. etc. You need access to shims which sometimes come in a comprehensive overhaul kit then there's setting the pre-load on the bearings in the transfer box which requires more shims.

You can see why including labour it can quickly cost $2.5K and upwards for someone to rebuild the box for you.

The other option is fit it into your rolling chassis, test run it under load, listed for odd noises and if it seems OK fit it and move on to the next project.


Colin


Colin

[chazza]

Lionel, the good news is that the Rover gearbox is very easy to disassemble and only requires one extra-deep-spanner to tighten the nut on the end of the main-shaft which you may not have.

Chipped or corroded teeth are easy to spot; corroded or rough bearings need replacing; the bronze bush on the main-shaft is often broken – apparently the shaft flexes too much in 2nd and 3rd under high revs – synchro rings and dog-clutch teeth wear but if you post photos someone can help you identify wear.

When I did my S1 box I noticed that most of the joints that leak oil, were never sealed by the factory, such as; the steel shims on the transfer box need a thin smear of Loctite 515.

Have a go on the bench, it is quite a fun job,

Cheers Charlie

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

This weekend I returned to work on my Series 3 Long Wheel Base tray back ute that goes by the name of "Rebus". Yesterday I swapped the bell housing off a replacement gearbox that was sourced from a four cylinder motor. Rebus was originally fitted with a 2.6 litre six cylinder petrol Land Rover motor. So I reinstalled the 2.6 litre bell housing.

After a bit of a check of the shed and the spare parts situation I realised something. The mental note I had months ago to order a new seal and gasket kit had not made it into an action. This meant it was the end of play for a while.

Seeking something further to do, I went over to where Rebus has been sitting with the front wheels on ramps. I armed myself with copious amounts of degreaser, a number of different sized and shaped scrappers and a brass brush. Before I bought Rebus it was a farm vehicle and I reckon it has not had the chassis degreased or cleaned for years and years. Now after devoting most of today on the degreasing task everything is nice and clean - including one degreased gearbox.

I also removed all the old by-passed fuel lines. The original six cylinder had the black nylon fuel lines and an electric fuel pump. When the 202 Holden motor went in the electric fuel pump and its lines were cut off. Part of the fuel line was fed into the Holden mechanical fuel pump. While the electric "Bendix" fuel pump was left with open ports and started to collect dust, mud and corrosion. I have replaced the electric pump and put in new fuel lines. I removed the old-knackered Holden mechanical fuel pump and blanked it off.

Prior to it going up on ramps I had Rebus' engine running sweetly; then the starter motor went. Not long after the starter motor was replaced - the clutch went. Since the clutch went I took the job one step further and removed the gearbox as well. There must have been some alignment issues with the old gearbox because the previous owner said that it jumped out of top gear.

Then a couple of months ago along came the Shortie and Rebus was left sitting on the ramps.

Next weekend I will fit the new gaskets to Rebus's gearbox and then I will fit the gearbox and clutch. After that will be the brakes.

Well that is it for me for the weekend and for the day. Tomorrow it is off to work so I can pay for my old Land Rover habit.

Kind regards
Lionel