Repairing Missing Wheel Stud on IIA

[rexhunt]

Hi, I was hoping for some confirmation on a fix for a missing wheel stud.

I have what seems to be an early IIA that was a shooting ute for a while before I got it. So I've been finding a few things that have been mostly caused by a lack of maintenance that need to be fixed before rego.

One of the first things I did was take the wheels off. This was quite hard and needed a fair going with the rattle gun and penetrating oil to get the wheel nuts off. Unfortunately one of them didn't actually come loose from the nut. The stud unthreaded from the hub. I figured that wouldn't be too much of a problem because I can order new studs. When I got the new one I discovered that because the studs get peened out on the backside it seems to have stripped most of the thread from the hole in the hub.

What I'm thinking is if I use one of the newer studs that are a splined press fit into the hub, smear a dab of grease into the splines, put the wheel on, put some grease on the nut and run it down with the rattle gun until the stud has been pulled into place.

Does this sound like a reasonable way to go about this? I don't have a press and I'd like to avoid having to pull the hub off. Although I could do it after having stripped the front axle to the diff while I was replacing the swivel ball seals.

Thanks,
Rex

[gromit]

What I'm thinking is if I use one of the newer studs that are a splined press fit into the hub, smear a dab of grease into the splines, put the wheel on, put some grease on the nut and run it down with the rattle gun until the stud has been pulled into place.



You'd have to drill out to match the size used for the splined section to pull into but there are other issues.
The stud length varies depending on whether the nuts are double sided (chamfer both sides) or not so you might find the thread exposed ends up too short depending on what wheelnuts are fitted.
There is also a recess that the splined type fit into, without this the stud exposed will be shorter still.....

Just recently found a 9/16" BSF tap to clean out nuts and the hub. As you've found though, it just depends how much damage is done as the stud unthreads.


Colin

[rexhunt]

Unfortunately the old threads got torn out. The replacement stud can be pushed through the hole without actually turning so there's nothing left for a tap to work with.

I'll have to have a look at the lengths. I don't remember noticing a significant length difference, but I haven't put the splined stud against anything.

How big would the hole be around the splined section? I wouldn't have thought that it would be much more than the body of the stud. There needs to be some interference between the hub and the splines for these to hold doesn't there?

Cheers,
Rex

[cjc_td5]

They have been fixed with a dob of weld on the inside many a time..... 🤔

[gromit]

How big would the hole be around the splined section? I wouldn't have thought that it would be much more than the body of the stud. There needs to be some interference between the hub and the splines for these to hold doesn't there?


A bit more than the measurement at the base of the splines. I had a hub with the press in studs removed but only a few weeks ago pressed in new studs so I don't have anything to measure unfortunately.

As cjc_td5 mentioned welding is a possibility if you remove the hub. The only issue is that you are joining steel & cast iron.


Colin

[JDNSW]

The other possibility would be to ream or drill the hole to take a wheel nut turned down and with a flange left for the inside and with a slot to spread the standard stud. The hole and the diameter of the turned down nut should be an interference fit, and the nut pressed in, or it could be pulled in by the stud and nut. Easier if left in the freezer for a couple of hours.

[67hardtop]

Ive got four spare s2a hubs here three of which have good studs and one that has been repaired sometime in the past but is still good. All 4 hubs have near new surplus ex military bearings fitted as well. Pm if u need any.

Cheers Rod

[Unleashed V12s]

Didn't read half of what was said, but my series 2A had a missing / broken stud and a loose one so I just welded the loose one on and glues a nut with some masking tape packed inside of it with some body tar orotund the outside to get it past rego :'D

[Blknight.aus]

Find out the Root Diameter of a replacement stud.
drill to that size.
insert the stud
place a suitable washer over the stud
put a flat nut on
wind it in with that, dont use a wheel nut. use a wheel nut on backwards if you have to..

Dont pull it in with the taper side. (dont ask) (ok bad things busted nut and cracked a hub)

[rexhunt]

Finally got a chance to finish this off. One of the wheel nuts on another wheel was flat on one side so I used that to draw the new stud in. Taking the old stud out had reamed most of the hole to the point where I just gave it a hit with a round file to have a nice fit up to the splines.

The new stud fitted in from the back without having to remove anything too dramatic, only the brake drum. Add some grease to the splines put 2 greased washers on the outside and snug it up with the rattle gun. Pulled the stud in nicely. Wheel is back on and the car is now out on the farm so after a few laps it hasn't fallen off so I'll call it a good job.

I grabbed a pic or 2. Will get them out of my phone and post here if anyone is interested.

Cheers,
Rex

[Chops]

Pics are always good Rex,, I currently have a "bolt" for one of mine, nuts rusted on very very well. It holds well, so we'll see if I need to fix it later.

[Cap]

Must be the time of year with this! Doing my axles at the moment, so had to take wheels off... as a result most studs came off the hub (I think I only had 1 hub with no studs removed). Anyway will be doing same, putting in the newer spline type (p/n 561886)

Pics would be great too :)

[rexhunt]

Here are the pics. This first one is the fit before pulling the stud in. A few minutes with the file and it fitted like this without catching.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/71.jpg

After pulling in, 2 washers with grease between them. I'd have preferred them to be a little smaller but these worked. These are to reduce friction against the nut. Also grease on the thread to reduce friction there also.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/72.jpg

And a gratuitous photo of the whole shebang. I've taken it out to my parent's farm rather than having it in my yard in town. Still a few things that need to be sorted. Brakes, tune, etc. But now that I've driven it around it feels like there's something wrong with the clutch so I'll have to look into that at some point.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/73.jpg

Cheers,
Rex

[Laandy]

G'day Rex,

I've got the same problem on my '63 IIa, one of the wheel studs has stripped the thread in the hub. I think I'll follow your repair solution.

I've a little confused with your first image, it looks like the stud is going in the wrong way or am I just looking at it wrong? Haha

Also, did you drill out a relief at the back of the hub for the stud flange?

Thanks mate!

Aaron




Here are the pics. This first one is the fit before pulling the stud in. A few minutes with the file and it fitted like this without catching.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/71.jpg

After pulling in, 2 washers with grease between them. I'd have preferred them to be a little smaller but these worked. These are to reduce friction against the nut. Also grease on the thread to reduce friction there also.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/72.jpg

And a gratuitous photo of the whole shebang. I've taken it out to my parent's farm rather than having it in my yard in town. Still a few things that need to be sorted. Brakes, tune, etc. But now that I've driven it around it feels like there's something wrong with the clutch so I'll have to look into that at some point.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/73.jpg

Cheers,
Rex

[p38arover]

Just saw this on YT.


www.youtube.com/shorts/WS4uuuI2NFY

[JDNSW]

G'day Rex,

I've got the same problem on my '63 IIa, one of the wheel studs has stripped the thread in the hub. I think I'll follow your repair solution.

I've a little confused with your first image, it looks like the stud is going in the wrong way or am I just looking at it wrong? Haha

Also, did you drill out a relief at the back of the hub for the stud flange?

Thanks mate!

Aaron

I think the first post is just demonstrating the fit of the splines into the hole. That is definitely the wrong way.