Slotted Diff drain plugs

[bemm52]

How do I get them out?

126857

and is there a better replacement?

Cheers Paul

[rover-56]

I made this a few years ago. Works well.
Or just use a bit of flat bar and a shifter.
I like these plugs because they are protected from rocks.
Terry

[Tins]

How do I get them out?

126857

and is there a better replacement?

Cheers Paul

Old days, there was a tool. Just make something. In the past I have used two BIG screwdrivers coming from opposite directions, if that makes sense. I have used the jaws of an open ended spanner, one that fits tightly in the slot, with a shifter to turn it. You can even turn them using a parallel pin punch. Don't use a centre punch or cold chisel. The plug can expand and make it harder to undo, plus, it's brass, so you'll just cut it.

Agree with Terry. They are protected from rocks etc. Modern equivalent is a 1/2" square socket that you can put a standard breaker bar or ratchet into.

[incisor]

i use a cold chisel that drops into the slot and a shifting spanner :p

i have an one here with a hex head but i much prefer the slotted head units.

[Tins]

i use a cold chisel that drops into the slot and a shifting spanner :p

i have an one here with a hex head but i much prefer the slotted head units.

Me too. One reason, amongst others, is I can always find something to undo them with. The others, it only takes a knock or a bid burr to prevent the tool, that is, the only tool that will fit, from working. Another thing, it's hard to overtighten a slotted one.

[whitehillbilly64]

I made one like Rover 56, using a old long tyre lever.
One end had a bend, I built up with weld, then ground down, and rounded to a perfect fit. Light tap to put in.


whitehillbilly

[Tins]

Old days, there was a tool. Just make something. In the past I have used two BIG screwdrivers coming from opposite directions, if that makes sense. I have used the jaws of an open ended spanner, one that fits tightly in the slot, with a shifter to turn it. You can even turn them using a parallel pin punch. Don't use a centre punch or cold chisel. The plug can expand and make it harder to undo, plus, it's brass, so you'll just cut it.

Agree with Terry. They are protected from rocks etc. Modern equivalent is a 1/2" square socket that you can put a standard breaker bar or ratchet into.

Forgot. Sometimes one of those tools that undoes the disks on an angle grinder can work.

[bemm52]

Looks like I'll have to dig around my sheds for something that fits slot

Cheers Paul

[Tins]

Looks like I'll have to dig around my sheds for something that fits slot

Cheers Paul

Best plan, IMHO. Keep it, 'cos you'll need it.....

[grizzz]

But if I cant find at the time. I use a open ended spanner which is the right thickness to neatly fit in the slot. The plug on the bottom of the fuel tank has the same plug.

[whitehillbilly64]

Here is an idea.

DRAIN PLUG TOOL, RNT0003 - Rovers North - Classic Land Rover Parts (http://www.roversnorth.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=RNT0003)

whitehillbilly

[whitehillbilly64]

Better One.

drag link socket - Google Search (https://www.google.com.au/search?q=drag+link+socket&rlz=1T4ADFA_enAU452AU455&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiYytmPjKTVAhULXrwKHTsxB4oQsAQIMw&biw=1366&bih=566)

whitehillbilly

[Xtreme]

Or get hold of one of these - an original Series Diff drain plug spanner

126865

[bemm52]

Or get hold of one of these - an original Series Diff drain plug spanner

126865

Slotted?

Cheers Paul

[whitehillbilly64]

Mmmm.
Might have one like that somewhere !!!!!!!!

whitehillbilly

[mick88]

Just weld piece of flat onto the top of an old socket (or cheap), or grind a flat on an old extension bar.

Cheers, Mick.

[Tins]

Mmmm.
Might have one like that somewhere !!!!!!!!

whitehillbilly

Had one in my RAEME toolbox, but they wouldn't let me keep it:no2:

However, if they had, I would have lost it, so probably for the best.

[rangieman]

I have been known to use a open end spanner in the past[thumbsupbig]

[rangieman]

Here is an idea.

DRAIN PLUG TOOL, RNT0003 - Rovers North - Classic Land Rover Parts (http://www.roversnorth.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=RNT0003)

whitehillbilly
Im guessing that is going to be exy once landed here [bigrolf]

[B.S.F.]

Whatever you use, make sure you can remove the filler plug, before you undo the drain plug, otherwise you'll have to fill the diff through the hub. .W.

[inch]

Made a tool out of a bit of step rod and a bit of bar, only cos I was bored and the welder hadn't seem much exercise lately.... but the head of a 5/8 open spanner fits a dream

[trout1105]

I will be dumping the oil in both diffs before my next trip so I have ordered some new plugs to replace the crappy plastic ones that are in the diffs at the moment.
The filler plugs are slotted and the drain plugs have the 1/2 inch square in them, I should be able to knock something up from the junk in the shed to make a tool for the slotted plugs [thumbsupbig]

[gromit]

I have ordered some new plugs to replace the crappy plastic ones that are in the diffs at the moment.
The filler plugs are slotted and the drain plugs have the 1/2 inch square in them

Plastic !

Make sure the drain plugs do not hang below the lip around the drain hole. Someone fitted a cast iron plug with a raised square head in the Salisbury fitted to my Dormobile. They then dragged the axle over something and sheared the head off so now no way of gripping it to remove it ! Looks like drill, get covered in oil, then use an easyout.....whether it comes out easy I'll find out at the time.

I also have a couple of axles where the raised lip has been bent in making it difficult to remove the standard slotted brass plug.


Colin

[bemm52]

what a difference a little bit of knowledge makes

126884 126885 126886

Thanks for input, one more little question would annealing the copper washers make them re usable?

Cheers Paul

[Tins]

what a difference a little bit of knowledge makes

126884 126885 126886

Thanks for input, one more little question would annealing the copper washers make them re usable?

Cheers Paul

Funny, I always reused them. I know, I know, but never had one leak. So, I imagine annealing couldn't hurt. I always just made sure they were clean and undamaged. The Base workshops might have had 150 steering relays in stock, but coper washers were often rare.

[whitehillbilly64]

I would anneal the washer. Heat till cherry red, then drop in cold water.
Look what I found. Knew I had see one like Rogers before.

whitehillbilly

[gromit]

Funny, I always reused them. I know, I know, but never had one leak. So, I imagine annealing couldn't hurt. I always just made sure they were clean and undamaged. The Base workshops might have had 150 steering relays in stock, but coper washers were often rare.

The originals were/are thin copper folded/rolled over a few times and they seem to re-seal without annealing. If you do anneal them the oil trapped in the folds tends to smoke a bit....
Last ones I ordered from the UK were a fairly thick plain copper washer which would probably have to be annealed to re-seal.


Colin

[Gordie]

They say there is no such thing as a dumb question...so here goes...what is the process of annealing and why is it done?...put simply please.

[rick130]

They say there is no such thing as a dumb question...so here goes...what is the process of annealing and why is it done?...put simply please.
Certain metals like copper age harden (and work harden)

Annealing is a matter of heating the metal up to a dull cherry red and allowing to cool in air.
This makes the metal softer (or annealed)
This allows it to conform to the harder metal surface (in this case the steel housing) better when tightened so it seals.

[whitehillbilly64]

I stand corrected by rick130.
Cherry red then air cool.

whitehillbilly

[rick130]

I stand corrected by rick130.
Cherry red then air cool.

whitehillbilly
You can quench copper and it doesn't really matter in my experience, but ordinarily you allow it to air cool.

[gromit]

You can quench copper and it doesn't really matter in my experience, but ordinarily you allow it to air cool.

Quenching removes the scale that forms but isn't required as part of the annealing process.

Colin

[scarry]

Plastic !

Make sure the drain plugs do not hang below the lip around the drain hole. Someone fitted a cast iron plug with a raised square head in the Salisbury fitted to my Dormobile. They then dragged the axle over something and sheared the head off so now no way of gripping it to remove it ! Looks like drill, get covered in oil, then use an easyout.....whether it comes out easy I'll find out at the time.

I also have a couple of axles where the raised lip has been bent in making it difficult to remove the standard slotted brass plug.


Colin

I had a rounded off diff drain plug on a van once that i couldn't get out,i used to siphon the oil out overnight.

From memory i think i used to get a piece of 1/4" copper tube bent around so it got to the bottom of the diff,then push a piece of clear tube over the copper and suck on it to get it started,then leave overnight,as it was bloody slow.

[gromit]

I had a rounded off diff drain plug on a van once that i couldn't get out,i used to siphon the oil out overnight.

From memory i think i used to get a piece of 1/4" copper tube bent around so it got to the bottom of the diff,then push a piece of clear tube over the copper and suck on it to get it started,then leave overnight,as it was bloody slow.

Thanks,
I had thought of that or tipping it up & taking a stub axle off. I have a spare Salisbury axle that I might overhaul & fit instead.......


Colin

[ramblingboy42]

before you take them out, during which process they can be damaged, buy some serious duty brass plugs fully slotted from British Offroad.

They will post them to you straight away.

[gromit]

before you take them out, during which process they can be damaged, buy some serious duty brass plugs fully slotted from British Offroad.



The originals are brass, OD is restricted by the raised lip round the edge so I'm struggling to understand what a 'serious duty' plug looks like.


Colin