Electrical

[deansyorath]

Hi all,
Looking for some help with an electrical issue.
Whenever i get into the landie and put the headlights on the left hand one doesn't work, wiggling between main beam fixes the problem.Has anyone had a similar experience....seems to me like an earth problem, but i checked that with a multi meter and earth came up OK.
Many thanks
W

[Bearman]

Have you checked the fuses for bad contacts. The left and right have different fuses.

[rovers4]

Hello,
Sounds like you have same as I had.

The headlight/dip switch is made of a plastic that melts when it gets warm - which itself is due to the poor connections on the contacts generating heat.

Fix: costly - keep replacing the combination switch.
Workaround: a bit more labour intensive but cheaper.
_
If the RH component of the switch is ok then you can use it still, otherwise replace it.
Put in relays to drive both the high and low beams. Run them direct from the alt. Pick up the triggers from the old circuitry that fed the RH headlamps.
That way the current being handled by the dipper is down to almost nothing and the heat should be non-existent.

When testing, remember that the beams only come on when the engine is on. Been there, done that.

If you have driving lights, then wire them up the same way with a relay off the working high beam feed but with a switch in the line so that they can be isolated out. A LEGAL REQUIREMENT!


Happy looking.

[deansyorath]

OK
seems like the headlight on/off main beam column switch is failing....weird how it affects the left hand side....would a replacement switch be a good fix or could we polish connections as a short term work around.

Ta
W


Hello,
Sounds like you have same as I had.

The headlight/dip switch is made of a plastic that melts when it gets warm - which itself is due to the poor connections on the contacts generating heat.

Fix: costly - keep replacing the combination switch.
Workaround: a bit more labour intensive but cheaper.
_
If the RH component of the switch is ok then you can use it still, otherwise replace it.
Put in relays to drive both the high and low beams. Run them direct from the alt. Pick up the triggers from the old circuitry that fed the RH headlamps.
That way the current being handled by the dipper is down to almost nothing and the heat should be non-existent.

When testing, remember that the beams only come on when the engine is on. Been there, done that.

If you have driving lights, then wire them up the same way with a relay off the working high beam feed but with a switch in the line so that they can be isolated out. A LEGAL REQUIREMENT!


Happy looking.