View Full Version : D3/D4/RRS Replacing Shocks and Airbags
101RRS
3rd August 2017, 11:08 AM
I am following a discussion on another forum on an other continent. There they advocate changing out the complete airbag/shock unit when shocks fail - so basically change the airbags as a precaution with each change of shocks.
Now I understand the OEM airbags on the old P38 did not have a long life but I thought the airbags on the D3/4/L320 were pretty good and I dont recall too many failures.
Back in 2012 TerryO (hi Terry) put up two threads about his experiences replacing just his shocks with Konis but he did not do the airbags.
So what is the consensus here - should we replace the airbag/shock unit as a complete unit when the shocks need doing or is this unnecessary? Likewise who has had issue with the airbags - wear and tear - or consistent failures - or have they held up really well.
At 140,000km with a bit of offroad use I have not had any issues at all.
Thanks
Garry
Graeme
3rd August 2017, 11:22 AM
The front air-springs on my D4 had worryingly deep inside cracks at 90K.
When I compared prices, the cost of a genuine air-spring without the shock was far too close to the cost of a genuine complete assembly to run the risk of having to replace the air-spring if it failed prior to requiring new shocks.
shanegtr
3rd August 2017, 11:49 AM
I had a leak from the front airbag about 2yrs ago. Ive just ordered some new rear strut/airbag assemblies - its just far easier to swap the whole lot out rather than having to strip the bag off the strut and replace it onto the new shock - theres no risk of finding something thats not 100% or damaging something during removal/replacement of the bag.
101RRS
4th August 2017, 12:18 PM
So no one is just replacing shocks when they wear out?
Ean Austral
4th August 2017, 12:28 PM
So no one is just replacing shocks when they wear out?
Gday Garry ,
a while back i think Redback posted a link to what is involved in changing the shocks , looks quite involved but not to difficult. I think it's more a case of finding a set of shocks to do the job . I think Terry O tried a few but was only getting minimal kms out of them . I guess the OE shocks should be available.
its certainly something that I would be interested in trying .
cheers Ean
Graeme
4th August 2017, 05:29 PM
I replaced just the D4 shocks when the after-market assemblies became useless after only 40K kms, whereby genuine later version D4 shocks were fitted to the non-genuine air-springs.
101RRS
4th August 2017, 07:47 PM
I guess it comes down to the cost of shocks and labour to fit vs the cost of the combined unit and cost to fit. I guess the labour cost of just fitting the shocks is higher because the old shock has to be removed from the bag and the new installed - given the cost of the combined unit is not a lot more than quality shocks I guess it is cost effective to just replace the lot.
Now I dont know - hence the original question to those in the know.
Cheers
Garry
rar110
5th August 2017, 10:12 AM
I proactively replaced my front strut assembly on my 11/2007 RRV L322 last year. On the L322 they seem to mostly fail sometime after about 10 years. As a casual observation the D3/4 seems to more frequently fail earlier. One of my shocks had failed and the other wasn't too far behind probably. The air spring on one was more cracked than the other. Labour to replace was $250 for both.
I would replace the whole assembly, no question.
I paid $600 each incl postage for OEM Britpart, which is supposed to be Delphi, from Duckworths. I would price local suppliers like Mario.
Chilly
5th August 2017, 08:50 PM
I have replaced the front air struts on my TDV8 2008. Both were changed due to an 'air' squeak. I purchased complete units, shock and air bag, due to not knowing the cars history. Fitting them myself. A pretty easy job. Providing you have an gap iid or similar.
Graeme
5th August 2017, 09:24 PM
A diagnostic tool isn't required as the air fitting at the top can be loosened enough to allow the air out, but first remove the 20A engine bay suspension fuse.
PerthDisco
5th August 2017, 09:46 PM
A diagnostic tool isn't required as the air fitting at the top can be loosened enough to allow the air out, but first remove the 20A engine bay suspension fuse.
Was wondering this same exact question. Is this guaranteed safe or will a quarter of a turn extra and you're in trouble? Also, by starting the procedure in access height are you 90% the way there? Need a long reach ring spanner for the back but also I've read.
Chilly
5th August 2017, 10:04 PM
Was wondering this same exact question. Is this guaranteed safe or will a quarter of a turn extra and you're in trouble? Also, by starting the procedure in access height are you 90% the way there? Need a long reach ring spanner for the back but also I've read.
I cannot remember doing the drivers side on my TDV8 RRS but on the Passengers side I could get a 3/8 extension flexibar with socket down to the nut on the Strut inside the engine compartment. Made it so much easier to do.
Graeme
6th August 2017, 05:46 AM
Air starts to escape soon after starting to loosen the collar but go a little further to increase the flow then wait until it stops, which is only a couple of minutes. Still a fair way to go on the thread. However if you're into working on these vehicles then you probably have or should have a diagnostic tool.
Access height is too low to work under the guards.
winaje
16th August 2017, 08:15 AM
Has anyone looked at these:
LAND ROVER - Discovery 3 / LR3 2005-2009 (https://www.arnottindustries.com/part_LAND_ROVER_yid4_pid175.html)
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