View Full Version : Bluey the Series 3 Ute
cookie monster
3rd August 2017, 02:15 PM
Hey guys, did my intro post in the S3 section but thought I'd best post up here with some pics of Bluey, my 1975 ute with Holden 202 motor.
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Had a good look over it on the weekend and the plan is to get it ready for registration.
Couple of items I'm not sure about though - anyone tell me what this is? I think it's something to do with the lights or could it be from the old gas system?
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Looks like this switch is for the high/low beam - is this type of switch normal?
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First jobs will be to tidy up a lot of loose wiring, remove air horns from roof and get hold of an original air cleaner assembly, so I can connect the PCV pipe work properly (any one got one in the shed?).
Will update as I go.
Cheers Cookie
Tins
3rd August 2017, 02:37 PM
Couple of items I'm not sure about though - anyone tell me what this is? I think it's something to do with the lights or could it be from the old gas system?
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Looks like a horn.
Looks like this switch is for the high/low beam - is this type of switch normal?
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It's a dip switch, but I didn't think S3s had one there. Yours is earlier than mine though. Mine has a column switch.
cookie monster
3rd August 2017, 03:55 PM
Thanks Johntins, never thought of the horn as I couldn't find the switch and pushing the end of the indicator stalk did nothing. Previous owner probably disconnected it, in favour of the twin airhorns.
I'm assuming that the end of the indicator stalk is the horn switch?
Previous owner must have also installed the foot switch for the high beam. Where is the factory high beam switch?
Cheers Cookie
Tins
3rd August 2017, 04:10 PM
Thanks Johntins, never thought of the horn as I couldn't find the switch and pushing the end of the indicator stalk did nothing. Previous owner probably disconnected it, in favour of the twin airhorns.
I'm assuming that the end of the indicator stalk is the horn switch?
Previous owner must have also installed the foot switch for the high beam. Where is the factory high beam switch?
Cheers Cookie
Same stalk as the horn button.
cookie monster
3rd August 2017, 05:18 PM
Thanks for the confirmation.
Cookie
67hardtop
3rd August 2017, 09:08 PM
The high beam part of the switch is prob no longer working so its been modified by putting a dip switch on the floor same as a s3 im stripping atm. The high beam "flash" dont work on my driver s3 but the dip still does. Needs relays to take the load of the switch same as all landys, even late defenders have problems which is fixed by fitting a "Traxide" kit so it has been said.
Cheers Rod
Tins
3rd August 2017, 09:10 PM
The high beam part of the switch is prob no longer working so its been modified by putting a dip switch on the floor same as a s3 im stripping atm. The high beam "flash" dont work on my driver s3 but the dip still does. Needs relays to take the load of the switch same as all landys, even late defenders have problems which is fixed by fitting a "Traxide" kit so it has been said.
Cheers Rod
I have fond memories of the foot operated dip switch, and I actually prefer them.
JDNSW
4th August 2017, 05:59 AM
Only problem with foot dip switches is that you can't tell you are on high beam when driving with the lights on in daylight and the sunlight shining on the instrument panel means you can't see the high beam light.
cookie monster
4th August 2017, 12:19 PM
Thanks for the confirmation guys. I plan to put a high beam light in, as the dashboard one doesn't work.
Hopefully get time this weekend to have a look.
cookie monster
10th August 2017, 12:42 PM
So was able to spend a couple of hours on Bluey over the weekend before a storm blew in and started looking at the mess of wiring in the engine bay and cab:
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Started tracing back the wiring into the cab and having to pull the dash apart to find the ends of the cables, so I know what not to disconnect. The wiring is a mass of short lengths of cable soldered together to make one longer length.
Another item I have been looking at and researching is the Positive Crankcase Ventilation or PVC for short. The previous long time owner had run the car on gas, so I'm not sure what he did with the PCV pipework, as the guy I bought it off had pulled the gas out of it and left it like this:
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I'm assuming that the hose that comes off the carbi and has the screwdriver in it, would have gone to a carbon canister originally, as there is no port in the inlet manifold for the PCV hose to return gasses to the inlet side of the engine ?
So with the weather raining and blowing a gail on Sunday morning, I happened to find a almost complete 202 for sale, complete with carby and manifold for $50. After collecting the engine, seams as though it was rebuilt a few years ago to run on gas, so has the hardened valve seats etc done to it - will make a great spare engine.
So I now have an inlet manifold that I can connect the PCV valve hose to and run the system as it should be. Whilst I still look to source an OE Holden air filter assembly to suit the engine (so I can connect the 'clean air in' hose from the port just next to the oil filler) ill block off the 'clean air in' port in the rocker cover (next to the oil filler) and continue with the vented filler cap. This should allow me to get through rego, as the vehicle is pre 1976.
New Inlet Manifold ready for cleaning and I will make a blanking plate up to block off were the EGR valve should sit, as this is not required on my engine:
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Carbi that came with the spare engine:
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Question for those in the know, is the 'new' carbi a better unit than the one that is currently fitted ? If so, I might look to fit it when the manifold goes on ?
Cheers Cookie
Lionelgee
10th August 2017, 06:05 PM
Hello Cookie,
Just going off the slanted float face on the new - spare carburettor it may be off a late HX or a HZ. They were not a very popular carburettor is providing a mild description of their reputation.
Let me know what numbers are on the front of both carburettors - the number should start with 23 and I can identify what engines they were made for. The yellow arrow is pointing to where the "23" number should start just below the lip of the top of the carburettor.
Kind Regards
Lionel
cookie monster
10th August 2017, 06:42 PM
Thanks Lionel, ill have a look tomorrow or over the weekend.
The engine number of the spare engine says it is about a 1978-1979 VB motor, but not sure if it is the original carbi.
Cheers Cookie
cookie monster
13th August 2017, 07:12 PM
Hi Lionel, didn't manage to get the number off the carbi in the car, but did have a look at the spare carbi.
The number is 23-3102.
Cheers Cookie
Lionelgee
13th August 2017, 08:07 PM
Hi Lionel, didn't manage to get the number off the carbi in the car, but did have a look at the spare carbi.
The number is 23-3102.
Cheers Cookie
Hello Cookie,
Your spare carburettor - 23-3102 is described by the Stromberg Carburettion Enthusiasts Guide Addendum as a Holden HX and LX Torana 202ci six cylinder engines with automatic transmissions (1976-1977).
Do you know what the engine number is? The engine number will be helpful in identifying what donor car the 186 cubic inch engine came out of. Also whether it is a low compression or high compression motor. A suitable carburettor can then be matched to the engine.
For my 202 cubic inch engine I fitted a re-manufactured carburettor 23-3091 BXUV-3 2375152 Holden HJ and LH and LX Torana 202ci six cylinder engines with manual transmissions (1975-1976).
Have fun with the blue beast Cookie. Let me know when you track down the number for the carburettor that is currently on your engine.
Kind Regards
Lionel
cookie monster
3rd October 2017, 01:02 PM
Thought it was about time I had a little update.
Been working through the tangled mess of wiring in behind the dash, tracing and removing wiring that is not required and ill also be looking to do a fair bit of rewiring of the original cables. They have been cut and hacked into that much, that most isn't worth saving.
There was also some very dodgy wiring practices going on in the engine bay, with gems like the open fuse block running wire as fuses and the massive blob of solder connecting a bunch of wires.
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I also replaced the main earth cable from the battery, as it didn't look in the best of health
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Other plans include:
Using an 8 way fuse block to run the various switches, as opposed to the OE fuse block under the steering column. The fuse block will be mounted in the middle of the dash behind the aux gauges and powered by an ignition triggered relay by the battery.
Fitment of a new indicator stalk and removal of the foot operated high beam switch
Replace the current alternator wire to the battery, as it is loosing 0.25v on its journey from the alternator to the battery
Get the OE horn working again from the new stalk switch
Fit gumtree sourced 50mm rev counter, so I can check the idle etc of the 202
Rewire headlights to use the OE wiring as a trigger for a relay activated heavier gauge system
Once I get back home from working away, ill be looking to get some progress made.
Cheers Cookie
cookie monster
3rd October 2017, 01:04 PM
Hello Cookie,
Your spare carburettor - 23-3102 is described by the Stromberg Carburettion Enthusiasts Guide Addendum as a Holden HX and LX Torana 202ci six cylinder engines with automatic transmissions (1976-1977).
Do you know what the engine number is? The engine number will be helpful in identifying what donor car the 186 cubic inch engine came out of. Also whether it is a low compression or high compression motor. A suitable carburettor can then be matched to the engine.
For my 202 cubic inch engine I fitted a re-manufactured carburettor 23-3091 BXUV-3 2375152 Holden HJ and LH and LX Torana 202ci six cylinder engines with manual transmissions (1975-1976).
Have fun with the blue beast Cookie. Let me know when you track down the number for the carburettor that is currently on your engine.
Kind Regards
Lionel
Lionel,
I still haven't forgotten this, just haven't had chance to check the carby out as yet.
Cheers Cookie
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