Goingbush's Electric Vehicle project

[goingbush]

I'd have thought that putting 3-phase power to a residence just to charge a car suddenly makes that a very expensive uneconomic proposition.

Are you able to point me to more info on please?


I've an urge (but not currently the money) to make an electric road car of an Aussie 70's Ford LTD.

missed that, Plenty of room for batteries in an LTD :)

Did you see the Kiwi '57 Fairlane , NZ Govt is a lot more progressive than Australia, they already have a road tax system inlace for EV's using the same setup as Diesel which there is no excise on.

A classic 1957 Ford Fairlane goes all-electric with a 50 kWh battery pack - Electrek (https://electrek.co/2018/03/14/classic-1957-ford-fairlane-all-electric-conversion/)

[goingbush]

Woo Hoo , my new rego plates arrived !!

Also got some Evergreen ES85, 215/85R16 LT's from Tyroola , $70 Each plus $85 shipping for 5 , Nice & skinny Perfect for 5.5" Series rims . fitted them tubeless , no weights , rides very smooth and quiet , very impressed at this early stage.

http://goingbush.com/AULRO/252-2.jpg

http://goingbush.com/AULRO/252-1.jpg

[VladTepes]

Is it just the firewall here, or have you not posted pics of the plates yet? What are they?

No I hadn't seen that, thanks. Adding 400kg to car like that certainly makes for no lightweight ! :D

That's the big problem eh. More batteries = more range but also = more weight = more power required = less range.
The trick is to figure out at what point the law of diminishing returns kicks in.


This is also interesting, as another off-roader conversion
Off-roading and EV enthusiast converts 1984 Toyota pickup into an all-electric truck using Nissan Leaf batteries - Electrek (https://electrek.co/2016/09/03/off-roading-all-electric-1984-toyota-extra-cab-pickup-into-an-all-electric-truck-using-nissan-leaf-batteries/)

[goingbush]

Is it just the firewall here, or have you not posted pics of the plates yet? What are they?

No I hadn't seen that, thanks. Adding 400kg to car like that certainly makes for no lightweight ! :D

<snip>





do you not see two photos in the above post (#252) ?

they are referenced from facebook so not sure if non FB users can see them .

[austastar]

do you not see two photos in the above post (#252) ?
.
Hi,
I can see the placeholders, but no images.
Android tablet, non FB user.
Cheers
Edit, the 2nd one has now loaded

[goingbush]

Hi,
I can see the placeholders, but no images.
Android tablet, non FB user.
Cheers
Edit, the 2nd one has now loaded

OK thanks I had no idea, I see this on other posts in the forum & its annoying, I'll have to go back through images & re-reference from a secure server.

cheers Don

[austastar]

Hi,
The first one is now trying to load i.e. the circle count down is at 30 percent.
How big are the images? I have less problems if I resize them to 600x800px
Cheers

Edit, this is a link to a screen shot of what I see. Link (https://photos.app.goo.gl/UAKT8RDQhtfVkWtV7)

[goingbush]

Hi,
The first one is now trying to load i.e. the circle count down is at 30 percent.
How big are the images? I have less problems if I resize them to 600x800px
Cheers
They are 1200 x 800 ,

The edit function for older posts is gone I'll have to get onto the admin to see how to go about it.

edit, should be fixed now.

[goingbush]

OK , hopefully image issues resolved.

Since I have a GPS speedo my speedo output on the gearbox is unused. So I adapted a Toyota Hall sensor to provide speed data to PowerWatcher computer rather than via a reed switch I previously mounted in front hub . ( The reed switch worked Ok but the magnet will attract iron dust from the drum over time. )

I considered using a Td5 hall sender but the Toyota units are way cheaper & easier to adapt.
Alternatively you could get a short cable made to adapt the original LR speedo cable to the Landcruiser Hall sensor.


Toyota sensor & its gear drive with LandRover Series speedo cable gear drive
http://goingbush.com/AULRO/259-1.jpg

Toyota sensor w drive shaft into LR gear
http://goingbush.com/AULRO/259-2.jpg

Toyota drive adaptor grafted onto DIY LR adaptor
http://goingbush.com/AULRO/259-3.jpg


http://goingbush.com/AULRO/259-4.jpg

[workingonit]

Toyota sensor & its gear drive with LandRover Series speedo cable gear drive

Nice speedo adaptation.

Could've been '88 Re-Volt' in keeping with your move from hydrocarbons and ethos of 'power' to the people?[smilebigeye]

[goingbush]

Todays playtime.


https://youtu.be/gRN1QlwFIXc

[stevo]

Well Done, I am thinking of building a hot rod project and going down the EV route, been researching different motors etc even been looking at wheel motors for the AWD aspect, want it fast/Quick, have not told guys at work what I am going with for drive options as they are the V8 crowd and saying fit a blower on top.


Years ago I had a series 2 soft top and ended up running synthetic oil in gearbox and diffs (was free from work) this made a huge difference in the noise from gears.

[goingbush]

Well thanks Stevo, I'm running synthetic 70w75 GL4 in the Gearbox , TC and both diffs . Gearbox sure leaks a lot more out the selector seals (if you can call them seals) . The diffs are practically silent but the gearbox is still noisy. Im thinking of putting some dynamat under the floor.

If your building a Hotrod I think wheel motors are a long way off , for pure kick ass torque DC Motors are to biggest bang for the buck,

I guess you've seen Zombie 222

https://youtu.be/ZAwIsKC7ROQ


And Chev e-copo

https://youtu.be/9WsqSoKYAF0

As with anything EV the batteries are still the most expensive part . But if need be you can justify the expense by setting up the battery pack in such a way that you could use the car as a power wall for your house.

[VladTepes]

Electric Land Rover Parking Only

(and SWB only too ! )

[stevo]

Well thanks Stevo, I'm running synthetic 70w75 GL4 in the Gearbox , TC and both diffs . Gearbox sure leaks a lot more out the selector seals (if you can call them seals) . The diffs are practically silent but the gearbox is still noisy. Im thinking of putting some dynamat under the floor.

If your building a Hotrod I think wheel motors are a long way off , for pure kick ass torque DC Motors are to biggest bang for the buck,

I guess you've seen Zombie 222

https://youtu.be/ZAwIsKC7ROQ


And Chev e-copo

https://youtu.be/9WsqSoKYAF0

As with anything EV the batteries are still the most expensive part . But if need be you can justify the expense by setting up the battery pack in such a way that you could use the car as a power wall for your house.

That is a good idea because once I move back to brissy was looking into mounting more panels to power a battery and if labour gets in will take on any rebates they might put up

[goingbush]

Todays video


https://youtu.be/L0c6I5r4gEY

[goingbush]

https://youtu.be/CP9jmx_2IJk

[DazzaTD5]

Todays video


https://youtu.be/L0c6I5r4gEY

Just watched the video, was going to post the link!

Doesnt sound much quieter does it? [bigrolf]
Besides who can not love the sound of the ol 2 1/4 petrol engine!

I actually am a fan of your project and do ponder if I had the skill to convert my ol 63 2a.

[goingbush]

Yes indeed there is not much to dislike about the old 2-1/4 by far the most dependable LandRover engine ever.

And yep, at road speed theres hardly any auditory difference ,.... if you mistook the Electric motor whine as diff noise . slow speed is another matter entirely.

If you can manage to keep ye olde Series alive I don't think doing a DIY EV Conversion is too far outside your skill set.

[JDNSW]

My problem is more money - and age!

[goingbush]

As mentioned in an earlier post I deleted my Vacuum booster a few months ago due to the chatter of the 12v vacuum pump. I changed the 1" Master cylinder for a 7/8" and I could still do with a bit more pedal travel so decided I need a 3/4" MC ( same diameter as used on the single circuit non boosted Series .)

Mine being a Dual Circuit I don't want to revert to single circuit brakes as its Engineered with dual. There is no 3/4 Dual Circuit LandRover MC , I had a quote from Power Brakes in Adelaide , $850 , to sleeve down to 3/4" & manufacture new internals. They advised look for a 3/4" from another brand.

After looking at hundreds of Master Cylinders I found the Datsun 120Y , of all things . Same era , same brake technology . Still have clearance under bonnet for reservoir , Only problem is the flange mount is vertical instead of horizontal so made up new adaptor plate from 20mm plate.

Bonus is they have bleed nipples on the MC , so it will be a single person brake bleed.

Just need to make new bundy pipes with 10mm nuts .

Not a bad solution for $95.00 (if it works)


The existing 7/8" MC on the 'Booster delete plate'
Note master cylinder is mounted 'above centre' as the revised pedal pushrod pivot is closer to the top
http://goingbush.com/AULRO/mc1.jpg


3/4" 120Y MC compared to the old LandRover 1" MC
http://goingbush.com/AULRO/mc2.jpg

http://goingbush.com/AULRO/mc3.jpg


New adaptor plate under construction
http://goingbush.com/AULRO/mc4.jpg

http://goingbush.com/AULRO/mc5.jpg

Obviously my measuring skills are below average, never mind , it fits.
http://goingbush.com/AULRO/mc6.jpg

http://goingbush.com/AULRO/mc7.jpg

stay tuned for next episode.

[dickyjoe]

You're a clever fella! I would have thought a late sixties falcon master cylinder XT-XW would have been suitable...

[goingbush]

You're a clever fella! I would have thought a late sixties falcon master cylinder XT-XW would have been suitable...

Cheers, I did look last those , but they are 1" diameter , as were the Holden ones . 7/8" are pretty common too. 3/4" Dual circuit are few & far between , Mazda had one with horizontal flange but the reservoir was too tall , I only have 20mm clearance to under bonnet lid.

[dickyjoe]

Could you also push the reading into the speedo?

I gather powerwatcher is some electric gizmo


OK , hopefully image issues resolved.

Since I have a GPS speedo my speedo output on the gearbox is unused. So I adapted a Toyota Hall sensor to provide speed data to PowerWatcher computer rather than via a reed switch I previously mounted in front hub . ( The reed switch worked Ok but the magnet will attract iron dust from the drum over time. )

I considered using a Td5 hall sender but the Toyota units are way cheaper & easier to adapt.
Alternatively you could get a short cable made to adapt the original LR speedo cable to the Landcruiser Hall sensor.


Toyota sensor & its gear drive with LandRover Series speedo cable gear drive
http://goingbush.com/AULRO/259-1.jpg

Toyota sensor w drive shaft into LR gear
http://goingbush.com/AULRO/259-2.jpg

Toyota drive adaptor grafted onto DIY LR adaptor
http://goingbush.com/AULRO/259-3.jpg


http://goingbush.com/AULRO/259-4.jpg

[goingbush]

Could you also push the reading into the speedo?

I gather powerwatcher is some electric gizmo

Yes you could use that as a speedo driver, esp since that is its intended purpose.

The powerwatcher is my android trip computer, tells me how much 'juice left in the tank' & gives stats on energy consumption and amount regenerated etc.

the video shows a screen recording from my phone with power watcher ap running, overlaid on dash cam video,


https://youtu.be/Xv0pa3uMPN0

[goingbush]

re-edit , Video compilation.


https://youtu.be/BGuOV-uh0JY