My first Series 2a x3 (NZ)

[NOMIS1234]

Hey guys,
My first post and first Land Rover project.
I first saw this Land Rover listed on a Facebook marketplace post. They were in martinborough nz, close ish to me (1hr drive each way). I convinced the mrs to let me park them in the driveway and went over to have a look. At first the listing was for a running 1967 2a and a parts rolling body. (The blue hard top and The green safari roof) once I got there the guy showed me a third 2a which was running the original 2.25 petrol engine and a ute cab top. I couldn't just leave it there, rotting under a tree so I made and offer on all three. Ended up picking them up for $1600, which I thought was a bargain.

I have a friend with a car trailer he uses for his rally car so we made three trips to get them home. I paid him in beer and bacon for each trip. He was stoked, and I saved several hundred dollars. Happy days

This one is running a LD28 Nissan diesel and runs well. The grille has been moved forward to accomodate a large electric fan using a hideous piece of checker plate. Yuck. I plan to put his back to original spot and sacrifice the checker plate to the wheelie bin gods.

The green 2a with the safari roof has no engine and is only good for parts. It is a military model, but the chassis is completely nackered.

The black 2a has the 2.25 petrol engine which doesn't run at the moment but does turn over. Hopefully get it going and sell it off to fund my project.

My first port of call is to source some good workshop manuals and parts catalogues. Can anyone make any recommendations on what to buy??

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/501.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/502.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/503.jpg

More pics to come

Cheers
Simon

[grey_ghost]

Hi Simon,

Welcome aboard! You've certainly got the bug - went to buy one, and ended up with 3!!! Lol

For the workshop manuals - click on "Shop" in the top of this web-page. On there you will find the "Rave" manuals on CD - you want the "Series" CD, which are the workshop & parts manuals for Series Land Rovers (I, II, III).

That's certainly a good place to start..

You can find printed manuals, although most of them are either worn & dog eared, or cherished and expensive!

Good luck with your project(s)!

Cheers,
GG.

[NOMIS1234]

Hi Simon,

Welcome aboard! You've certainly got the bug - went to buy one, and ended up with 3!!! Lol

For the workshop manuals - click on "Shop" in the top of this web-page. On there you will find the "Rave" manuals on CD - you want the "Series" CD, which are the workshop & parts manuals for Series Land Rovers (I, II, III).

That's certainly a good place to start..

You can find printed manuals, although most of them are either worn & dog eared, or cherished and expensive!

Good luck with your project(s)!

Cheers,
GG.

Great thanks for your quick response!

[Chops]

Welcome,,
And welcome to the series world too [biggrin]
The little blue looks good, not that I'm biased or anything [bigwhistle]

[ezyrama]

Welcome Simon
3 series??, That's it, the bug has bitten, your an instant Land Rover tragic. Interesting but ugly conversion on the blue one.
Keep the safari roof for the blue one. It must have a name though and pictures of the rebuild are compulsory. [smilebigeye]
Look forward to watching the rebuild/s.
Cheers Ian

[NOMIS1234]

Welcome,,
And welcome to the series world too [biggrin]
The little blue looks good, not that I'm biased or anything [bigwhistle]

Thanks! Should be a goodie. I'll post more pics in due course

[NOMIS1234]

Welcome Simon
3 series??, That's it, the bug has bitten, your an instant Land Rover tragic. Interesting but ugly conversion on the blue one.
Keep the safari roof for the blue one. It must have a name though and pictures of the rebuild are compulsory. [smilebigeye]
Look forward to watching the rebuild/s.
Cheers Ian

Yep... I know! The man who dies with the most toys wins, right?? The electric fan conversion is doing my head in. Very ugly. They also ran a 3" intake through the firewall - eg makeshift snorkel. Horrible. That's also gone now.

I was thinking about he safari roof but not sure, as it is in quite bad nick (large dent in the rear and it never gets hot here in wellington! Lol I am however keeping the ute top as an optional configuration once it's back in the road
Cheers for the comment

[JohnboyLandy]

The little ute is cool, if they were mine, I would get that one going first :-)

Cheer,
John

[ezyrama]

Always wanted a 2a trayback myself. Not allowed anymore toys till I sell the kids for scientific experiments

[travelrover]

Welcome Simon

Looking forward to regular updates and photos of your projects :-)

[NOMIS1234]

The little ute is cool, if they were mine, I would get that one going first :-)

Cheer,
John

The blue one is probably going to be the main project, because it currently runs, but yes I will hopefully get the ute going. I am keeping the ute top for the blue one as an option. Cheers

[NOMIS1234]

Always wanted a 2a trayback myself. Not allowed anymore toys till I sell the kids for scientific experiments

You can never have too many toys! (See my driveway!)

[ezyrama]

Got 5 cars, 4 motorbikes and camper trailer myself. It's like a car yard

[Gordie]

Hope you loaded them up with Martinborough wine! I wonder if that number plate is still live...that's an oldie and a goodie...

[NOMIS1234]

Hope you loaded them up with Martinborough wine! I wonder if that number plate is still live...that's an oldie and a goodie...

I did bring a couple of bottles back but not loaded up!! The black plates are dead, but I have been in touch with nzta and they said I can re use them when the times comes to re register. Good news :)

[Cap]

Excellent, great to see another nutter with many toys. My wife is already :bangin: on me about having two! Looking forward to more pics and progress.

[Gordie]

Good news re the plates...didn't know they would do that...nice to know. Cheers.

[NOMIS1234]

First update -

Cons- have pulled the front wheel off the blue s2a and the wheel bearing is absolutely nackered! About 200mm of movement from top to bottom of the wheel. Avm hubs are stuffed, although there are some on the military one that I may be able to save.

Pros - there are 11" brake drums on the front and Salisbury diff in the rear.

Thanks work ring binder!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/667.jpg

[NOMIS1234]

Gathering bits for the restoration - upgrading from arc to mig! Now all I need is an agroshield bottle (argon c02 mix) and I will be away.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/776.jpg

Had a bit of look a at what needs doing on the blue landy's chassis In terms of rust. Looks like the rear cross member is rusty, so I'll be replacing that. The rest of the chassis looks fairly sound. The gearbox crossmember has taken a bit of a beating, but I might be able to get away with replacing the bottom skin rather than the whole unit. Thoughts?

Also I have been researching assisted brake setups. The ld28 comes with vacuum pump integrated into the alternator so I am all good there. That said, what is the easiest/most cost affective solution ?

Thanks in advance
Simon

P.s the "blue one" is now named "Joe" after my grandfather who recently passed. I think we'll keep the female names for the boat! [emoji23]

[NOMIS1234]

Also gave the old girl an oil and filter change and discovered a leaking oil pump. Out comes the trusty gasket paper again!

[Cap]

I got same issue with dinged cross member bottoms. One base is tack welded to the sides so can easily be replaced... i remember seen threads on uk forums of these being changed, The other one (gearbox) not so sure.

[JDNSW]

.....

Also I have been researching assisted brake setups. The ld28 comes with vacuum pump integrated into the alternator so I am all good there. That said, what is the easiest/most cost affective solution ?

Thanks in advance
Simon
.......

The simplest is to fit a remote booster such as a VH44. The alternative is to fit a Series 3 boosted master cylinder and pedal tower and pedal. This allows conversion to dual braking, with plumbing complication, and the need to modify the splash panel under the RH mudguard (or use a S3 one) and its attachment at the top.

If I remember rightly, this one is a swb, which means that it is easy to make substantial braking improvements even without vacuum assist simply by fitting lwb brakes - drums, backing plates, shoes etc plus master cylinder. You could do just the front, or front and rear, but if only doing front you need to seek expert advice on what master cylinder to use. With the front brakes you also have the option of going to the wider drums fitted to the six and the V8 (and all late lwb). This is probably a bit of overkill unless the power is increased markedly, and does increase the unsprung weight unnecessarily.

[NOMIS1234]

Update

Joe has had a good water blast and has come up quite well.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/1067.jpg

Disassembled the windscreen wiper mechanism and bagged it ready for when I can get at it. Does anyone have any info on the trim that covers the drive worm and wiper gears from the inside above the dash? Mine doesn't seem to have one. Also the trim that covers the wiper motor in the dash on the left hand side.

I have also started dismantling the parts Landy, which I think was military, judging by the rear crossmember. It really is in rough condition. I touched one of the outriggers and it completely fell apart onto the driveway. The body, drivetrain and steering assembly will be handy to practice taking apart and to have spare bits ready to go.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/1068.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/1069.jpg

Wanting some info on the Salisbury diff also. Is this a factory option? Or is it more likely to be an upgrade?

Cheers in advance

Simon

[JDNSW]

The Salisbury diff was an option on late production S2a 109, and standard on Series 3 109. Note that it has a longer nose, so the prop shaft is shorter. It was never an option on the 88, and while it is said to be possible to fit, it requires a very short prop shaft and is likely to involve using special U-joints to avoid binding at large angles on full rebound.

[NOMIS1234]

The Salisbury diff was an option on late production S2a 109, and standard on Series 3 109. Note that it has a longer nose, so the prop shaft is shorter. It was never an option on the 88, and while it is said to be possible to fit, it requires a very short prop shaft and is likely to involve using special U-joints to avoid binding at large angles on full rebound.

Thanks for the info, Joe the blue landy has one in the rear, which has been there a while and looks to have had no issues. Do they normally have a different drive ratio to standard 2a rear? Cheers, Simon

[JDNSW]

No. All Series Landrovers except a few very early 80" and Series 3 Stage 1 were 4.7:1. While the Rover diffs came in a variety of ratios and these are a bolt in swap for Landrover axles with Rover diffs, Landrovers with Salisbury diffs only came as 4.7 or 3.54:1 (Stage 1), so there are only two likely ratios. Stage 1s are far less common, but it is still possible that one of these is fitted.

[NOMIS1234]

So while I pull apart the parts truck, I decided to remedy the 300mm of top to bottom play in the drivers side wheel bearing. Turns out the drivers side outer bearing was absolutely flogged to the point where the bearings were unrecognisable. Looked like little stones.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/1051.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/1052.jpg
The bearing race was also mangled. The main thread for the bearing nuts was flogged. I had to cut the nuts off with the dremel.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/1053.jpg
When I got it, the guy said that the 4x4 "didn't work" this may be why..... also the drive shaft spline was stuffed. Are these available for sale anywhere?
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/1054.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/1055.jpg

So the donor parts from the parts Landy worked well. No bearing slop now, although I didn't swap the brakes over because the old hub was stuffed and the drum screws were ceased. I have a manual impact driver on the way which should get them out hopefully and I can swap them over.

Now, at least I can safely move Joe in and out of the driveway while I disassemble the parts truck. This is where I left it this afternoon. Progress is slow but not stagnant.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/1056.jpg

Cheers
Simon

[NOMIS1234]

Update

The parts Landy has been stripped and the chassis and firewall have been sent to the fiery pits of Land Rover hell... (scrap yard)


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/164.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/165.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/166.jpg

Chassis converted to a two piece thanks to the trusty angle grinder and everything fit on the trailer nicely.

Cheers,
Simon

[JDNSW]

I note you seem to have consigned to scrap what looks like a serviceable metal brake fluid reservoir - these are sought after and expensive ($100+) to buy.

John

[Chops]

I note you seem to have consigned to scrap what looks like a serviceable metal brake fluid reservoir - these are sought after and expensive ($100+) to buy.

John

Back to the tip Simon,,,, you'll learn to be a hoarder of serviceable parts like the rest of us [bigwhistle]

Hence why I'm not allowed to clearing sales etc :glare:

[NOMIS1234]

Back to the tip Simon,,,, you'll learn to be a hoarder of serviceable parts like the rest of us [bigwhistle]

Hence why I'm not allowed to clearing sales etc :glare:

Yes, I was wondering about keeping it.. hind sight is a wonderful thing lol. I am planning on moving to a boosted brake system and isolated clutch master, so these will both be plastic reservoir. The metal one that I have now in Joe, I can keep/sell now I know how sought after they are...

Thanks guys, always amazes me how much info comes out of the wood work with a update or two.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/213.jpg

Cheers,
Simon

[NOMIS1234]

Hey guys,

Does anyone know if Joe is an original colour? If so what colour is it?

I have had a google, but nothing is obvious.

Marine blue looks a bit too blue
Maybe ice blue, or Dominican blue?

Cheers
Simon

[NOMIS1234]

Quick update -

I have been busy renovating my house and haven’t done anything on Joe other than start him up once a week. He starts and runs well with a nice oil leek from the oil cooler on the ld28 dripping onto a towel saving my driveway.

Anyway, today I couldn’t stand the checker plate so I dove in to getting rid of it. The previous owner had gone to quite the effort to mount the grill about 5 inches forward to accomodate an electric fan. He’s welded in a piece of angle iron on each side of the radiator as it normally mounts to the grill so I’ll have to get the angle grinder out and whip them off to return it back to original.

I’ll add a slim electric fan later once everything is back in place.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/480.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/481.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/482.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/483.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/484.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/485.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/486.jpg

The grill Lower is not in too bad condition but I’ll end up replacing the lower section as most people do.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/487.jpg

Cheers, Simon

[NOMIS1234]

Update -

I have cut off the “aftermarket” radiator supports and roughly cleaned up the welds. Quick degrease and a coat of temporary zinc until I start the proper tear down.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/498.jpg
Got the grill back in place temporarily and she’s looking much better. Yay no checker plate!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/499.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/500.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/501.jpg
While I’m at it I’m going to take the radiator to the re-conditioners to get a quote for a rebuild. Also going to replace the thermostat and radiator hoses while I’m at it. I’m thinking I may not need an electric fan once the radiator is flowing properly. It wasn’t, judging from the gunk that came out.

Cheers, Simon

[Gordie]

Looking much better!

[NOMIS1234]

Question -

I have a Salisbury rear diff which has been running in the current set up for what looks like a while. I have been reading up about these conversions which mostly say you can either move the engine and gearbox forward, or shorten the prop shaft. Can anyone tell by the pictures what has been done?
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/502.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/503.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/504.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/505.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/506.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/507.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/508.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/509.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/510.jpg
Second question is should I keep it or return to standard series rear? I have a spare lying around.

Any advice appreciated.

Cheers,
Simon

[grey_ghost]

That rear prop shaft looks shorter than me - BUT let’s see what everyone else says. Also - I would consider keeping the Sals because I think that it is meant to be stronger?

[NOMIS1234]

That rear prop shaft looks shorter than me - BUT let’s see what everyone else says. Also - I would consider keeping the Sals because I think that it is meant to be stronger?

Yeah that is what I was thinking. They seem to have done a pretty good job of the drive shaft in that case.

Cheers for the reply,
Simon

[JDNSW]

The salisbury is significantly stronger, but unless really heavily abused, the standard one is usually free of issues in the swb. On the other hand, you already have the salisbury in there, and unless you have prop shaft issues (common with the salisbury in the swb) the only thing wrong with it is the higher unsprung weight, giving a slightly worse ride, and the lower ground clearance. But for most use, you will not be able to tell the difference unless you have a look!

[NOMIS1234]

The salisbury is significantly stronger, but unless really heavily abused, the standard one is usually free of issues in the swb. On the other hand, you already have the salisbury in there, and unless you have prop shaft issues (common with the salisbury in the swb) the only thing wrong with it is the higher unsprung weight, giving a slightly worse ride, and the lower ground clearance. But for most use, you will not be able to tell the difference unless you have a look!

Thanks John. I’ll stick with the sals!

[Gordie]

Did you sell the other ones....seem to recall seeing them on trademe??

[NOMIS1234]

Did you sell the other ones....seem to recall seeing them on trademe??

I sold one! Kept the other one for parts and scrapped the chassis. Might make a trailer with the other tub.

Cheers,
Simon

[NOMIS1234]

Hey guys and gals, quick up date with Joe.

I placed the my first of what will be many orders from paddocks. I ordered a new clutch master, braided line and slave cylinder. I chose to go for a stand alone reservoir master.

I unbolted the clutch pedal box, removed the old master cylinder and gave the box a good degrease and water blast. Then, in went the cylinder. I must admit it was hard to install such a shiny, new part to a part in need of a good tidy up and paint but at least it was clean.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/02/356.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/02/357.jpg
I was alone, so I rigged up a “1 man” bleeding system from a large syringe and a length of tubing. I attached the tubing to the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder and secured it with a cable tie. Then I filled the syringe with fresh fluid and flicked the tube until all the air came to the top. Then I inserted the plunger, cracked the bleed nipple and applied pressure until I saw fluid rise into the master cylinder reservoir. Once I saw fluid, I topped it up and away I went. A good, hard pedal.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/02/358.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/02/359.jpg
I also cleaned up the thermostat housing and installed a new gasket and thermostat.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/02/360.jpg
Now I can move him around the section in the mean time without having to bleed the reservoir each time.
I am off to Africa in May for 7 weeks hence the delay in starting the restoration.

Thanks for reading,

Simon

[NOMIS1234]

Long time, no update!

So I am back from Africa and back into the Landy. This weekend I started dismantling.

I took all exterior lighting out, removed the dash, labelling as I went. Then the grill and radiator, seat box and floor panels. The chassis is looking good so far...

https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/d07f2d24f479f8e343e7bf6bdb26025f.jpg

I also took the main gauges apart and have ordered new chrome bezels, glass and seals. I also orders new warning lights and new, matching oil pressure and water temp gauges (2”)

https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/002db332d8bbb0d70a26c351cc243f7f.jpg

I am having trouble finding good 16x5.5” standard wheels with the 33mm offset. I have 3 that are in ok condition, but can’t for the life of me find 2 more. I am thinking of going to an aftermarket wheel? Seems the slimmest I can find is a 16x7” 0p like the Roh trak? Can anyone shed any light on aftermarket options that are under 8” wide? So far I have been collecting what I can find which I can sell on later - 6x 16x5”, 3x of each type of 16x5.5” (can’t remember the codes off hand)

Cheers for reading,

Simon

[NOMIS1234]

Hey guys,

On the weekend I disassembled Joe to a state where I can see what’s what.
https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/cf5122fcd75cea8b718813063aad6257.jpg
The chassis is looking fairly sound other than the known rotten rear cross member. Everything came out without one snapped bolt or rounded nut.
https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/edc9992c7b4962401bd9cd4dbe5a4f77.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/2b8213d7542b312115b442d08a1b78e0.jpg
The firewall has a bit of rust. Mainly in the top corners around the vents and a wee bit in the bottom of the pillars and foot wells. I have ordered replacement foot wells and full vent replacement panels from paddocks to repair the bulkhead before I pull it off the chassis.
https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/e05647c90739aec62772a703f8ce0e26.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/30a52751c90f0f016e2401cb3b3e2d63.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/815b5a0b0f911e728f4290ecf2e013cb.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/5361e3145576eeb9c35ac1e7b2f44bfc.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/e22b02aa01f5aafa23d4e5ca33e57aa5.jpg

So that was my Saturday.. good fun! Starting to feel motivated!

Cheers,
Simon

[NOMIS1234]

Hey guys,

Yesterday the new chrome bezels and glass arrived from eBay for the gauges, so I wasted no time getting them fitted. Man, they look good! I also ordered a new electric temp and oil pressure gauge which match as closely as I could to the dash gauges.. Only with orange needles...
https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/48f73d7d2ab5b9c68ade7f3d577140cb.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/db6c5d57ac9c2659eaefbbd5fb593f93.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/18417678dfa075d603a0e2cc4a48625b.jpg
I also have started to prep the dash panel. It has now been primed and has 3 coats of black on it. I’m going to add a couple coats of clear too, so that will be the next post.

https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/6ccbf98842ef9ca18e5d9dbdf95b6a70.jpg

Cheers,
Simon

[NOMIS1234]

Hey guys,

I have been researching the best treatment for the chassis. I have come to the conclusion that the best value for money and longevity, coating it in a hot dip galv is the way to go. What are people’s thoughts on this? What has worked for you?

Cheers
Simon

[LRJim]

Hey guys,

I have been researching the best treatment for the chassis. I have come to the conclusion that the best value for money and longevity, coating it in a hot dip galv is the way to go. What are people’s thoughts on this? What has worked for you?

Cheers
SimonHot dip gal is most definitely the best way as the inside gets coated. I don't know what prep is involed I thinks it's an acid dip 1st. A lot of places that build or restore series chassis will have them hot dipped.
I used KBS chassis kit and I'm very happy with it but it fades in UV light only problem. You can get a "blacktop" coat If you want it used in the light. Both are self leveling so it's smooth like glass from the brush.
I'm going to spray the inside with high pressure on the paint gun to hopfully get a good coat on the inside.
If I go down a full resto route I'd defiantly go hot dipped then black chassis paint over the top.

Cheers Jim

Edit this is after 1 coat and no prep I wanted to leave all the weld spit. Rear cross needs repairs.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180809/96d8fcb3477c89f06fcfcca936387dea.jpg

[NOMIS1234]

Hot dip gal is most definitely the best way as the inside gets coated. I don't know what prep is involed I thinks it's an acid dip 1st. A lot of places that build or restore series chassis will have them hot dipped.
I used KBS chassis kit and I'm very happy with it but it fades in UV light only problem. You can get a "blacktop" coat If you want it used in the light. Both are self leveling so it's smooth like glass from the brush.
I'm going to spray the inside with high pressure on the paint gun to hopfully get a good coat on the inside.
If I go down a full resto route I'd defiantly go hot dipped then black chassis paint over the top.

Cheers Jim

Edit this is after 1 coat and no prep I wanted to leave all the weld spit. Rear cross needs repairs.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180809/96d8fcb3477c89f06fcfcca936387dea.jpg

Hey Jim, thanks for the reply

Yeah I think I will go with hot dip as I can get it dipped for $2.25+gst per kg. Not sure what the chassis weighs but guessing around 100-150kg.... the galv guy just said to get it sand blasted to prep it so the whole process will be relatively cheap too!

I’m not too bothered about painting it afterwards though, the galv guy said in order to paint over the galv, they would have to skip the quenching process and use an etching acid to provide a surface for the paint to stick to. He said it is possible, but the galv coating won’t be as affective.

Cheers,
Simon

P.s your Landy looks awesome!

[NOMIS1234]

Hey guys,

Today I ordered some more parts! Including a steering relay oil seal, steering box overhaul kit, upper steering column bearing, replacement gearbox crossmember and left and right bulkhead replacement pieces. I thought I may as well replace as much as I can!

Cheers,
Simon

[LRJim]

Hey Jim, thanks for the reply

Yeah I think I will go with hot dip as I can get it dipped for $2.25+gst per kg. Not sure what the chassis weighs but guessing around 100-150kg.... the galv guy just said to get it sand blasted to prep it so the whole process will be relatively cheap too!

I’m not too bothered about painting it afterwards though, the galv guy said in order to paint over the galv, they would have to skip the quenching process and use an etching acid to provide a surface for the paint to stick to. He said it is possible, but the galv coating won’t be as affective.

Cheers,
Simon

P.s your Landy looks awesome!Yeah at that sort of price don't even bother with anything else especially if it's all stripped back. Just make sure all the rust repairs and chassis mods are finished 100% so it's all coated properly.
As long as they can fit the chassis in the tank or whatever they use you will be laughing!
Thanks for that, it was ment to be a quick tart up but it's just been dragging on I've been a bit lazy with it. Had too many other priorities....

Cheers Jim

[NOMIS1234]

Yeah at that sort of price don't even bother with anything else especially if it's all stripped back. Just make sure all the rust repairs and chassis mods are finished 100% so it's all coated properly.
As long as they can fit the chassis in the tank or whatever they use you will be laughing!
Thanks for that, it was ment to be a quick tart up but it's just been dragging on I've been a bit lazy with it. Had too many other priorities....

Cheers Jim

Hey Jim,

Yeah, I have heard from a few people that land rovers are never “finished” and once you start you’ll never stop.... and I’m quite happy about that!

Cheers
Simon

[NOMIS1234]

Hey guys,

This was nice to come home to! Ordered from paddock spares on Sunday and they arrived Friday 3.45pm! The bags have the gear lever, low range lever and handbrake gators. https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/4e46916de7d605a1c35be5468ebc48f1.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/99348185a40535284ad33f97d722988b.jpg

Here’s the finished dash panel too! I’m liking the finish.

https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/151eca2e8294bccd25949e3fa3ea29fb.jpg

Tomorrow I’ll work on taking a few more bits off. I have the steering box recon kit and steering relay seal coming, so I think I’ll get those off and prepped

Cheers
Simon

[NOMIS1234]

Hey guys, quick update on what I have been up to.

Gauges installed in the dash panel and looking great! https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/db010c4189bc3152eb7e8e4ee3d3ee96.jpg
Last weekend I rented a engine crane and pulled the engine and gearbox out around the bulkhead so i have a bit more room to repair the bulkhead. The whole process was smooth and only took me two hours!
https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/cd3044b47971df956cf28dfa380663b5.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/93e4e51f9d4b3be786df8e9840a7fbc1.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/ed6848f41fe330b23e78873139df0e04.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/ae7de8bc785e9f567ab72e7e59b5bb20.jpg
I started to pull the engine down too for a lick of paint and tidy up. I ordered gaskets and o rings to rebuild the Nissan’s oil cooler which is leaking oil badly.

I still haven’t gotten into rebuilding the steering box, but that will be my next job.

Cheers
Simon

[NOMIS1234]

Hey guys,

On Saturday I cleaned up the gearbox with degreaser, water blaster and some elbow grease. https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/8d1b51c70f101b17df230a93be0da903.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/8cb8875111f9982e6ef2d09c582d2d2d.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/c05426b304a4e6a71fa9ea996cbb6d04.jpg
I was looking at the Ashcroft transfer gear set to increase the final drive. Has anyone had any experience with the unit?

Cheers,
Simon

[travelrover]

Hey guys,

On Saturday I cleaned up the gearbox with degreaser, water blaster and some elbow grease. https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/8d1b51c70f101b17df230a93be0da903.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/8cb8875111f9982e6ef2d09c582d2d2d.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/c05426b304a4e6a71fa9ea996cbb6d04.jpg
I was looking at the Ashcroft transfer gear set to increase the final drive. Has anyone had any experience with the unit?

Cheers,
Simon

Looks very smart. Also like your timber trolley, good idea [emoji362]

[1950landy]

Looks very smart. Also like your timber trolley, good idea [emoji362]

Could eat your dinner off that[biggrin]

[NOMIS1234]

Looks very smart. Also like your timber trolley, good idea [emoji362]

Cheers, yeah it makes it a wee bit easier!

[gromit]

I was looking at the Ashcroft transfer gear set to increase the final drive. Has anyone had any experience with the unit?


My Series III had high ratio transfer gears when I got it, there are some mods to be made to the transfer box before you can fit the gears. You'll need someone who is a good machinist to make the modifications.

If you have a look at post #45 below you'll see that there is a round plug of aluminium made for the centre shaft to re-locate it.
Isuzu C240 powered Series 3 (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/other-powered-series-land-rovers/151959-isuzu-c240-powered-series-3-a-post1720389.html#post1720389)
Another good picture in post #67

I think Ashcroft can supply a modified transfer box along with the gears

Mine has a 2.4 Isuzu n/a diesel and it flys with the high ratio transfer mod. Doesn't like much below 60Kph in top gear but does just over 100Kph on the freeway.
Low range isn't altered much.


Colin

[NOMIS1234]

My Series III had high ratio transfer gears when I got it, there are some mods to be made to the transfer box before you can fit the gears. You'll need someone who is a good machinist to make the modifications.

If you have a look at post #45 below you'll see that there is a round plug of aluminium made for the centre shaft to re-locate it.
Isuzu C240 powered Series 3 (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/other-powered-series-land-rovers/151959-isuzu-c240-powered-series-3-a-post1720389.html#post1720389)
Another good picture in post #67

I think Ashcroft can supply a modified transfer box along with the gears

Mine has a 2.4 Isuzu n/a diesel and it flys with the high ratio transfer mod. Doesn't like much below 60Kph in top gear but does just over 100Kph on the freeway.
Low range isn't altered much.


Colin

Hey Colin,

Cheers for that. I think it is something I’ll need to do to make it usable in modern traffic. There is a guy down in the South Island that is looking at doing a shared order from Ashcroft. Believe it or not, there are 5 people in nz that are keen!

Cheers,
Simon

[NOMIS1234]

Hey guys, I am currently rebuilding my steering box. Do I need a paper gasket between each shim on the end cover? The kit only came with 2 end cover gaskets?
Cheers
Simon

[JDNSW]

No

[NOMIS1234]

No

Hey John,

So as I understand from the workshop manual, one gasket goes between the steering shaft casing and box. Does the other one go between the shims and box or the shims and cover?

Cheers
Simon

[JDNSW]

Actually, looking it up (rather than relying on memory), the manual and parts books are inconsistent. I would prefer to have three paper gaskets, one between the outer shaft and the box, and one each side of the stack of shims on the bottom. The shims should seal between each other as long as they are not rusty or damaged. Any leak from these joints should be pretty minimal - there is no pressure.

Hope this helps

[67hardtop]

Actually, looking it up (rather than relying on memory), the manual and parts books are inconsistent. I would prefer to have three paper gaskets, one between the outer shaft and the box, and one each side of the stack of shims on the bottom. The shims should seal between each other as long as they are not rusty or damaged. Any leak from these joints should be pretty minimal - there is no pressure.

Hope this helpsI gave my shims a very light application of silastic just in case.

[NOMIS1234]

Thanks for the reply’s. I have looked around online and looks like some rebuild kits come with 3 and some with two.... I have found gaskets separately so I’ll grab some with my next order. Another question - I replaced the upper bearing in the steering shaft and it went in, but really tight.. i test fit the steering shaft and there is no way it is going in there. Does anyone know where to get a replacement non Britpart? I bought a “quality aftermarket “ part from paddocks and it is far from it...

Cheers
Simon

[russellrovers]

Thanks for the reply’s. I have looked around online and looks like some rebuild kits come with 3 and some with two.... I have found gaskets separately so I’ll grab some with my next order. Another question - I replaced the upper bearing in the steering shaft and it went in, but really tight.. i test fit the steering shaft and there is no way it is going in there. Does anyone know where to get a replacement non Britpart? I bought a “quality aftermarket “ part from paddocks and it is far from it...

Cheers
Simonh simon i have very good s3 steering boxs here will go straight in jim

[gromit]

I have looked around online and looks like some rebuild kits come with 3 and some with two.... I have found gaskets separately so I’ll grab some with my next order.

I spoke with a local Land Rover 'expert' and he doesn't use the gaskets. I used Permatex No1 sealant, which is hard setting, and no gaskets.

The bigger issue you will find is getting hold of a selection of shims so you can set the steering box up to have a slight pre-load on the bearings but not too much which will damage them. I managed to strip another box & gain some shims.
Check the bearing surfaces on the shaft, on the one I've just overhauled there was pitting which meant the shaft was scrap, luckily another was salvaged from a wreck.

2a GS Refurb ARN 178-334 (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/leaf-sprung-military-land-rovers/125841-2a-gs-refurb-arn-178-334-a-post2845082.html#post2845082)


Colin

[NOMIS1234]

I spoke with a local Land Rover 'expert' and he doesn't use the gaskets. I used Permatex No1 sealant, which is hard setting, and no gaskets.

The bigger issue you will find is getting hold of a selection of shims so you can set the steering box up to have a slight pre-load on the bearings but not too much which will damage them. I managed to strip another box & gain some shims.
Check the bearing surfaces on the shaft, on the one I've just overhauled there was pitting which meant the shaft was scrap, luckily another was salvaged from a wreck.

2a GS Refurb ARN 178-334 (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/leaf-sprung-military-land-rovers/125841-2a-gs-refurb-arn-178-334-a-post2845082.html#post2845082)


Colin

Thanks Colin, yes the bearing surfaces seem to be in good nick. I have a spare box too. The current box had 5 shims so I’ll see how I go when I put it all back together.

Thanks again for the info,
Simon

[NOMIS1234]

Hey guys,

After a long while of busyness mixed with contemplation, I finally took to the landy with an angle grinder to start repairing the rear crossmember.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181129/bf51ddca4c50dfdb8b6a984de2a43318.jpg
Everything came off without an issue.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181129/b657756f1f5bc843fcdd8e75941750d6.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181129/abbc6a5467465a513e3131c50b7eee3e.jpg
I have a replacement crossmember with extensions which is bripart... Here lies the issue. The chassis extensions are welded square to the crossmember, meaning that the crossmember is tilted under the back of the chassis and the factory spec can never be achieved...
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181129/360f161e84e6d39e13a548039f0499e1.jpg
My mate and I have a plan to make up some jigs to hole the crossmember in place while we “modify” the extensions. It will be simple, but annoying considering britpart are selling an item that doesn’t fit..

More info to come. :)

Cheers,
Simon

[Chops]

Have you got the extensions with the hangers on, or off?

I'm guessing here, but I think they probably expect you to make the cuts allowing for rust or damage, which means you won't make "square" cuts necessarily.
According to which datum points you will use, as in possibly both top, sides, bottom, or all of chassis rail, you should be able to align the cuts at any angle/s needed on either or any surface to help get the end plate section square.

Hope you understand what I'm saying here Simon, and it helps.

[sm3rt]

Hi
Just spotted your project, looks great. We are in Porirua are you near by? My son is rejuvenating a IIa SWB military rover (FFR).

I have a few PDF manuals if that's of help, mainly military however.

What have you done with the military one? Does it have any good bits on it? We may need some so could maybe come to an arrangement if you don't need to keep them.

Cheers Quentin



Hey guys,
My first post and first Land Rover project.
I first saw this Land Rover listed on a Facebook marketplace post. They were in martinborough nz, close ish to me (1hr drive each way). I convinced the mrs to let me park them in the driveway and went over to have a look. At first the listing was for a running 1967 2a and a parts rolling body. (The blue hard top and The green safari roof) once I got there the guy showed me a third 2a which was running the original 2.25 petrol engine and a ute cab top. I couldn't just leave it there, rotting under a tree so I made and offer on all three. Ended up picking them up for $1600, which I thought was a bargain.

I have a friend with a car trailer he uses for his rally car so we made three trips to get them home. I paid him in beer and bacon for each trip. He was stoked, and I saved several hundred dollars. Happy days

This one is running a LD28 Nissan diesel and runs well. The grille has been moved forward to accomodate a large electric fan using a hideous piece of checker plate. Yuck. I plan to put his back to original spot and sacrifice the checker plate to the wheelie bin gods.

The green 2a with the safari roof has no engine and is only good for parts. It is a military model, but the chassis is completely nackered.

The black 2a has the 2.25 petrol engine which doesn't run at the moment but does turn over. Hopefully get it going and sell it off to fund my project.

My first port of call is to source some good workshop manuals and parts catalogues. Can anyone make any recommendations on what to buy??

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/501.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/502.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/503.jpg

More pics to come

Cheers
Simon

[NOMIS1234]

Have you got the extensions with the hangers on, or off?

I'm guessing here, but I think they probably expect you to make the cuts allowing for rust or damage, which means you won't make "square" cuts necessarily.
According to which datum points you will use, as in possibly both top, sides, bottom, or all of chassis rail, you should be able to align the cuts at any angle/s needed on either or any surface to help get the end plate section square.

Hope you understand what I'm saying here Simon, and it helps.

Hey chops,

No they don’t have hangers. What I mean is, the chassis rails are supposed to meet the rear cross member on a slight angle. The britpart part has the extensions welded on straight. I’ll show more pics once I get the jigs home.

Cheers
Simon

[NOMIS1234]

Hi
Just spotted your project, looks great. We are in Porirua are you near by? My son is rejuvenating a IIa SWB military rover (FFR).

I have a few PDF manuals if that's of help, mainly military however.

What have you done with the military one? Does it have any good bits on it? We may need some so could maybe come to an arrangement if you don't need to keep them.

Cheers Quentin

Hey Quentin,

Cheers no I only have the one now. Im saving he parts just in case I need them during the rebuild then once I’m done I’ll put them up for sale. I’m in Lower Hutt. Feel free to private message me your number if you wanna come and have a look and a chat.

Cheers
Simon

[NOMIS1234]

Hey guys, while I’m waiting on the jigs I thought I’d get stuck in to the bulkhead.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181207/e2ad047e088afd9534c25f5d96921a3e.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181207/71d496b9c8930d98397d557b436113ab.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181207/a200c822708629993fa98196b1c6483f.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181207/bfd533de65675a2fcb9e54db86870067.jpg
There is a fair bit of rust around, but I think a good rust kill treatment and paint should sort the inside out. I ordered Eastwood internal frame coating which has a special nozzle to get into hard to reach places. Not cheap, but it’s supposed to work well.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181207/c4ca225eb243e8d8a349b17bffb7c978.jpg
Nearly time to migrate Joe into the garage!

Cheers,
Simon

[67hardtop]

Simon, if u turn the bulkhead upside down u can get into most of the "nooks and crannies" of it with a spray nozzle. I used the spray gun that is used to apply fisholene. It got into everything. But be aware that u need to paint the main coat of paint on first as the paint may NOT stick to the stuff u spray inside all the channels and seams. I didnt need to drill any holes or anything when i did my s2a bulkhead. Leave it upside down for a few days to dry and seep into the seams then turn it upright and spray in every crevice u find. I found with fisholene that it was seeping out of seams for days after application. It even travelled upwards into areas that i wouldnt have thought possible. Its good stuff.

Good luck with ur resto.

Cheers Rod

[NOMIS1234]

Simon, if u turn the bulkhead upside down u can get into most of the "nooks and crannies" of it with a spray nozzle. I used the spray gun that is used to apply fisholene. It got into everything. But be aware that u need to paint the main coat of paint on first as the paint may NOT stick to the stuff u spray inside all the channels and seams. I didnt need to drill any holes or anything when i did my s2a bulkhead. Leave it upside down for a few days to dry and seep into the seams then turn it upright and spray in every crevice u find. I found with fisholene that it was seeping out of seams for days after application. It even travelled upwards into areas that i wouldnt have thought possible. Its good stuff.

Good luck with ur resto.

Cheers Rod

Thanks Rod. Thanks for the tip! I’ll weld it all up on the chassis one side at a time, then I’ll whip it off and turn upside down like you suggest. Good idea, cheers.

I was thinking of fisholene, but I ended up going with this stuff. These are the key features.

Tough phenolic resin penetrates, converts and encapsulates the rust on the internal surface
Zinc phosphate seals it to prevent future corrosion
Fully cures in 24hours

Again thanks for the reply

Cheers,
Simon

[NOMIS1234]

Hey guys,

I have coated the inside of the rear section of the chassis and the coverage looks good. I used two cans, and will need to use two more to complete the job. It has a green finish to it, so nice and easy to see the coverage while the crossmember isn’t attached.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181209/7e5c701c5aac134c607c33c53a6c5a90.jpg

All going well weather wise, the crossmember should be reunited to the chassis tomorrow.

Cheers,
Simon

[NOMIS1234]

Hey guys,

Weather was good tonight, so the new crossmember was mated with the chassis. The extensions on the britpart crossmember were welded on straight with no angle to them at all, so we had to seperate the three sides and make a jig to hold the crossmember in square and to measurement.
Jigs
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181211/1cd9cbcfb89275eba19fac321d4600c0.jpg
Jigs installed and all lined up
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181211/8afaf9cda482ffbd63644d69e0959df0.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181211/8bacedc346be6ac47b701d230a70aacf.jpg
Ready to weld on
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181211/8ed8e5c3dc3cb09c372429a3c32eaa29.jpg
Test fit
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181211/13e774bb48ba3239c77f75830021bac6.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181211/2ed36d0bb4a830443c38b5eda5cba211.jpg
Here you can see how we have had to modify the extensions as they were welded straight on with no angle. Note the angle of the side pieces which were trimmed off on the bottom edge to suit.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181211/40c1c2a446f99508d2bcbf3a1956069f.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181211/339b5f19154e85fb4d5a49e4a41f62f7.jpg
All welded up and temporarily painted to resist the weather.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181211/2a55e613ca5f14ee5adf10a31cccb831.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181211/010cf861809c94f9cccc3ae07b02553c.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181211/760a2d8d8879c4294c44b7d3890a34f9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181211/6aabf43e73f82a9f4bd77e182b9faf87.jpg

Next job is the bulkhead !!

Cheers,
Simon

[67hardtop]

No spring hangers yet??

[rangieman]

No spring hangers yet??
Coil spring [bigwhistle]

[NOMIS1234]

No spring hangers yet??

No, not yet. I have the britpart ones, but they need to be modified to fit with the bottom crossmember extension caps that are welded on. They are designed to fit directly over the original chassis frame profile.

Anyone had the same issue?

Cheers,
Simon

[NOMIS1234]

Coil spring [bigwhistle]

I wish!

[NOMIS1234]

Hey guys,

Just a quick update on Joe the 2a. I have cleaned up the engine and painted it with POR 15 engine enamel. It came out nice and it hard as a rock. I have all new gaskets other than the head gasket to fit next. I have rebuilt the ld28 oil cooler also with new seals etc so hopefully it won’t leak any more.
Before
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190219/fcb3a7e0b8699e67c9ad3f170698b161.jpg
After
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190219/0e832ca33fb7d46defefaf822fb99fcf.jpg

I will also be cleaning up the rocker cover and replacing the water pump too.

Cheers
Simon

[NOMIS1234]

Hey guys,

Update on joe the series 2a.

I have been cleaning up and refurbishing more engine parts recently including new water pump, new heater and oil hoses, new glow plugs, new diesel pump timing belt, new gaskets all round (other than head gasket) and painted all parts and mounts. Here are some progress shots.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190605/ecd6c3480d06e04f0717d267f8182534.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190605/2731c5e4d3062629d294eb54639a0708.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190605/62250838218d7f689286abf92e4ced8b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190605/b77a972539cf2aef6dee34f495f8a640.jpg
I am also in the process of rebuilding the injectors. They are in terrible shape. I will be replacing the jet housing and needle because they are well gone.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190605/29a7bce24a3cf0715d5bd01efb616942.jpg
Also joe is now out of the weather and in the garage! Plus test fitting the bulkhead repair pieces...
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190605/244dac9c9a13cb64d11c6c8da2f55d4d.jpg
More updates to come!

Cheers,
Simon

[NOMIS1234]

Hey guys,

Look what I found! Trademe score! Does anyone have any tips or tricks on how to make or find new flaps for the heater? The fan motor runs but the core isn’t leak tested.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190611/6e3c38825080b36115127a88689d3766.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190611/7f6e9323292f9fb027fb4b2e1817627c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190611/d9c571cd3cd8c7c1df8df456b086cd99.jpg
Cheers,
Simon

[Chops]

Mines a little different to yours, but wouldn’t be hard to do anyway.

[NOMIS1234]

Mines a little different to yours, but wouldn’t be hard to do anyway.

Awesome cheers for that. I’ll have a go and see what I can come up with

[NOMIS1234]

Hey guys,

I have been working on the injectors and have tried my hand at zinc electroplating. I only did the adaption nipples from the pump outlets to the injector and painted the injector bodies. New vs old. Turned out all good. I used a zinc anode for marine use.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190614/67f33396c6334de81c2adeb5fa41f04e.jpg
Below is my setup. I used a phone charger cable which I adapted with alligator clips. I cleaned the parts with hydrochloric acid to remove any grease etc, then into water to rinse before going into the zinc bath. The parts need to be clean of rust before plating.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190614/c273d08bdda83a7bd5c4e49924774fb7.jpg
Ended up turning out really nice after a light wire brush to remove the grainy deposit left on the exterior.

Cheers,
Simon

[NOMIS1234]

Hi guys,

It’s been a while between posts! I haven’t got much done on the Land Rover over the past year... will be getting back into it over the winter.

I have seen for sale in nz 2x Toro overdrives. The guys is asking $500 for both. My question is, can anyone tell by looking at these photos the condition of the drive shaft? For reference, the drives out of the boxes are the ones for sale. From the research I have done, parts are unavailable other than bearings and seals etc, so having a clean - ish input shaft is important.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200520/c3cfd78fff33d2250ce5e8e0b0577e55.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200520/0beab6200c20c89b1e900cf933e5229c.jpg

Any help much appreciated!

Cheers, Simon

[NOMIS1234]

Hi guys,

Long time no post/progress… I have recently had a burst of enthusiasm for the Landy project. I have now removed the bulkhead and sold it. It wasn’t the original bulkhead so I’m not upset about that.. To replace it I have ordered a new one from Robert Owen which was a small fortune but I think I will get a good product in the end. Should have it in my hands around Jan 2022. In the mean time my goal is to get the chassis, leaf packs and axles reconditioned.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210904/b0c246810924cdacafdf8295f9000fb3.jpg
I have started refinishing the leaf packs. I have followed a fellow kiwi’s method. (Geoffrey Crocker) I have separated the leaves and run over them with a cup wheel to remove rust and scale, degreased and then treated with phosphoric acid and finally coated them in black zinc. When I put them back together I spread copper grease on one side of each leaf and bolted back up. Then run over it with wax and grease remover and gave the entire pack another coat once together. I believe I have series 3 springs as they have the bolted leaf keepers rather than the ones that are beaten over.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210904/3d0668b48ed2f7934627632dec602671.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210904/ce18819e74c2ec986f63e1f46a9f220e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210904/45712ba1a80acecd4ae756bfb50d44ef.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210904/8cdb321e85a50cd45fcf127e7e2ddc03.jpg
I will be replacing the keeper bolts with 10mm stainless bolts with nyloc nuts. I am waiting on some sleeves to be machined to replace the originals.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210904/8b28281b1f1f050ce9dfaa43b63cdff3.jpg

I have completed one front pack so far and am hoping to complete the other 3 over the next week.

Chassis will be next.

Cheers,
Simon

[NOMIS1234]

Also forgot to post the nice pile of the dreaded bushes. I have now removed all of the old bushes in the springs and chassis. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210904/179f8fb5d3d2bc309c7e41211d5122a9.jpg

[whitehillbilly64]

I added a little chanfer to the springs on the touching edge.
Also took off any wear ridges with a 'flapper disk'

whitehillbilly

[NOMIS1234]

I added a little chanfer to the springs on the touching edge.
Also took off any wear ridges with a 'flapper disk'

whitehillbilly

Thanks, yes mine don’t seem to be too bad so I didn’t bother.

Interested to see how the copper eze grease goes in between.

[NOMIS1234]

Getting there https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210907/4a6d5b2bba79b0e9a18e69281fbb7b27.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210907/90d4d38dcc1de0b37228b55e14c843bd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210907/7927b9a412150d0bf63f8ac6b92b4da2.jpg
Have all leaves brushed, degreased, rust killed and painted. Copper grease and reassembly next.

Feels good to get something done on it.

I have ordered a poly bush kit and parts including seals, bearings etc to rebuild front and rear axles. That will be the next job. Then I will start work on the chassis.

Cheers
Simon

[NOMIS1234]

Springs are almost complete. My mate is turning some spacers down for me to go in between the shackles to suit the new m10 stainless bolts.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210907/a6707502cd442e92dff73b57c0ff3142.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210907/5c1d711a17907f356b01713f82b99e79.jpg

Cheers,
Simon

[crawal]

Also forgot to post the nice pile of the dreaded bushes. I have now removed all of the old bushes in the springs and chassis. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210904/179f8fb5d3d2bc309c7e41211d5122a9.jpg
Simon I would ditch the stainless bolts as they work harden with use , s/s are not highly rated use imp grade 8 bolts instead or grade 10.9 craig ps great build

[NOMIS1234]

Simon I would ditch the stainless bolts as they work harden with use , s/s are not highly rated use imp grade 8 bolts instead or grade 10.9 craig ps great build

Hey Craig, thanks for that mate. The stainless bolts are only for the spring keepers, I have new steel bolts from paddocks for the moving parts.

Cheers
Simon

[NOMIS1234]

Quick update. I have ditched the LD28 and have purchased a 200TDI out of a disco.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220215/9e811539c5e921dd7e44382ffd798791.jpg

I plan on rebuilding the head before installation. I have converted the gearbox adapter housing to suit my series gearbox by tapping an additional four m10 studs shown with red arrows. I will also countersink the lower four holes and insert m10x80mm cap screws. This method followed instruction from Glen Anderson on expedition landrover.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220215/27ab61e3b386c9ceb0003c0b0c74e3d7.jpg

Exciting times - Robert Owen engineering will be dispatching my replacement bulkhead very soon. I am also ordering a new galvanised Richards chassis. My old chassis may not meet the rules for re registration in New Zealand as they are very strict on chassis repairs and I don’t want to get to the end to be told I have to strip it all down again…

I have axle rebuild parts ready to go, so I will be on to that next.

Cheers
Simon

[NOMIS1234]

Exciting times!!!!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220527/d94207be1cef00769896576f4d087f3f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220527/2b633cb896fc45ecda248eb110734edd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220527/9634054b2b127e6581e454eed30c1bce.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220527/2fed92b3ab4176abe57fc3d6f209d886.jpg

[drfish]

Do you mind telling us how many GBP for the bulkhead, and more importantly for the shipping?

[NOMIS1234]

Do you mind telling us how many GBP for the bulkhead, and more importantly for the shipping?

Approx $6400 into wellington nz

[Johnno1969]

Approx $6400 into wellington nz



Corblimey.

[NOMIS1234]

Hi guys, long time no post…. I have updated though!

Shielder chassis had arrived
184329184330https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230311/43bcbf9b1cdd9c38f0beca261475453d.jpg
Acid washed, epoxy etch primer and epoxy top coat
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230311/2947e67103d3cf0be85ff6aba26e2f5a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230311/60c1b57107fb01aae810e3f039066824.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230311/b1417eef7c9923b2bca469b6e27de8dd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230311/5ff3398ef165bae3c8a043f2cb2364ba.jpg

Axles painted (have ordered brakes, swivels, bearing etc) outer parts will be cleaned up next
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230311/d635e4cde2156ce6a0a17b3ef42383b1.jpg

Looking forward to a rolling chassis!!!!

[NOMIS1234]

Axle parts all painted, some new parts added. Assembly of nice shiny clean parts next [emoji4]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230401/de8e7d9ab29e30af6fdce1861c336950.jpg

[NOMIS1234]

Hey guys,

Rear axle has been completed and has been installed! Joe is now officially on two wheels!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230410/594c2a1e1055e5830dcd6e802ba125c4.jpg

[NOMIS1234]

Joe update

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230629/186781a2731a72849eefd085434ece18.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230629/561dd4b78a53526b36382e4d12be371b.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230629/4ef91f0639d0b280a5a065113fca7b2a.jpg
Chassis is rolling!! New swivels, bearings, new 11” brakes all round. Tie rod ends and new steering relay as well.

Cheers
Simon

[NOMIS1234]

Hi guys,

I am coming to the point where I am looking to get the engine and gearbox mated back up and back into the chassis. Before this happens I want to run the brake lines.

I have 11” drums all round with dual cylinder front and single cylinder rear. I would like to run a dual circuit master cylinder servo assisted just like the series 3 LWB. I plan to trim my guard to make it happen. Can someone please shed some light on the master cylinder that would most suit my needs? Suppliers haven’t been much help in finding a solution. I understand I need to get the bore size correct for the system to operate correctly.

Any pointers will be much appreciated [emoji106]

Cheers,
Simon

[NOMIS1234]

MAP hubs rebuilt https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240717/77f7e55b75d07a372d2d0a662f202113.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240717/ec55f29eceda610c8daa88f86d63ba69.jpg