Hi to you all some advice please

[Baloo]

Hi i have just got my first Range Rover 4.6 p38 1995 190000klm seems all good been looked after well. I can do all the normal staff to service it. But would anyone recommend doing anything else to keep her running good. Like adding different oil for older engines or adding additives to the oil to protect it better. Would you spray anything on the engine to protect the rubber hoses or the wiring. Anything you can think off that would help keep her running good. Should i spray anything on the the rubber suspension things lol.
Thanks
Shaun

[deano2469]

Hi Shaun, not sure you need to coat any rubber bits, best to try and separate any that are rubbing. Air bags I lift up and hose around to get sand out but that's about it. I change oil at 20,000 and plugs every 40,000 and mines done 354000 and still ok. Hope you enjoy the car, you will be amazed at what it will do...in style.

[TheTree]

G'day mate

Welcome to the madness :)

Get hold of a copy of the service schedule, there are a few things like Uni Joint and Tailshaft spline greasing which should not be neglected! Also there was a recent discussion about regular cleaning of the MAF

I use Penrite oil with the extra zinc which is apparently better for our cam followers, I also change it every 10,000 kms

For the door rubbers etc I use a rubber treatment and for all the plastic etc I use 303 aerospace protectant.

Regards
Steve

PS : I found the service schedules

128231128232

[daf11e]

Welcome aboard Shaun, I also have been using penrite oil for the last 10 years of ownership and had no problems, the only thing I'd add is to keep an eye on your temperature and if it starts to increase address the issue immediately. Good Luck Mate!

[Keithy P38]

G'day and welcome to P38 ownership mate!

As mentioned above, Penrite oil seems to be a good thing for these motors. I use Penrite HPR 5 in mine, and it usually only gets 3,500km between changes (every 6 months or so). It's at 240,000km.

Theres not a lot aside from the usual grease and oil stuff that needs to be done to these old girls. If you keep an eye on the suspension system you'll be a happy man. If you notice it starts to sag overnight, or is continuallt adjusting to stay level after about 10mins of driving, it might be time to check the compressor and bags over, and look around for leaks. If it's very slow to raise on a regular basis, usually it's the compressor, but keep in mind it takes a good volume of air to lift it up from access height in the morning, and that's assuming the tank is not empty to begin with.

Keep your shafts greased, change the diff/transfer oil every 40,000 and the transmission fluid every 10,000 and you should be on a good thing. I am making it a habit to clean the MAF every time I change the air filter.

Cheers
Keithy

[ozscott]

If you do city runs largely then every 5k will see a very long life motor assuming cooling system is good and runs cooler than stock. I am happy to pay for good quality oil every 5k. If largely highway then 10k is fine.

Cheers

[Keithy P38]

I forgot to mention earlier, Crankshaft Position Sensors (CKP) usually die around the 200,000km mark in our beloved P38's too!

[TheTree]

One more thing

Open up the under bonnet fuse box and have a look at the condition of RL6 and RL7, the two relays in the front right position

If they show any signs of heat stress, replace them ASAP

Steve

[DieselLSE]

All good advice, but I would add one more thing. Make sure the radiator is functioning correctly. And you can't just go by how it appears to flow. A restricted radiator is the most common cause of overheating the motor and destroying the heads in the P38. I would seriously consider overhauling the radiator on an annual basis as it is not uncommon to find it is significantly restricted after only a year after a flush. There may be good replacement radiators available now, others here will know.
When I purchased a 1999 P38 in NZ about 8 or so years ago (sight unseen, but I knew the owner and the company only wanted $1,500!) the mechanic who regularly serviced it (very well) said the radiator appeared fine and flowed well. But because I had seen many P38 radiator failures I insisted he get it flushed. He was completely surprised that it turned out to be 30% restricted.

[DoubleChevron]

How do you guys "flush" a radiator. I've never managed to flush anything from radiators. I've pulled the tanks off old downflow radiators, and not been able to pass even a hacksaw blade through the tubes (that were jamned solid). If it's a modern plastic tank radiator.... it's a throw away item.

Can you get a proper radiator made up for them rather than the aluminium/plastic tank junk ? That way it can be cleaned out in the future (though I must admit, it's amazing how cheap some of those new radiators are).

seeya,
Shane L.

[DieselLSE]

How do you guys "flush" a radiator.
No idea, Shane! Personally, I use Natrad in Moorabbin. Yes, the silly plastic headers can only be re-used once or twice. Also, I have no idea how they ascertain the percentage blockage, whether it's a guesstimate or they actually measure the flow.

[Grumbles]

At those kms I'd expect the water pump impeller to have mostly disintegrated if it is original. Don't trust the cooling fan viscous hub either. Replacing these two items along with the aforementioned good advice re the radiator rebuild/replacement should go some way to preserving that 4.6 engines' integrity for another couple of hundred thou or thereabouts.

[Baloo]

Hi guys i seem to have one problem if my car is standing still the heater blows cold as soon as its driving it heats up. Its got a New radiator and water pump and engine is not getting too hot. Thanks

[Keithy P38]

Must be just the lack of coolant circulation when idling that causes it to blow cold.

[RolloverDisco]

How do you guys "flush" a radiator. I've never managed to flush anything from radiators. I've pulled the tanks off old downflow radiators, and not been able to pass even a hacksaw blade through the tubes (that were jamned solid). If it's a modern plastic tank radiator.... it's a throw away item.

Can you get a proper radiator made up for them rather than the aluminium/plastic tank junk ? That way it can be cleaned out in the future (though I must admit, it's amazing how cheap some of those new radiators are).

seeya,
Shane L.

The only way to clean out any radiator is to disassemble it and rod the tubes. And as mentioned with tabbed header assemblies can only be done maybe once or twice. Otherwise a power flush using air pressure in the reverse direction of flow then alternating is your next best thing (preferably after a cleaning chemical has been run through it to help dislodge/soften and breakup any sludge) Using the old flow test method is guessing. Unless its really really blocked then it will be obviously blocked. Yes, a 'proper' radiator can be custom built (in cu/br or full alloy). I costed a heavy duty high efficiency one up in full copper/brass as a curiosity soon after I got my current P38 (from a fellow AULRO'ian, thanks I love it [biggrin]) and it's expensive and until the current stock system proves insufficient then wont be pursued. I don't like full alloy radiators as a general rule.

The lack of heat when idling only is curious. Possible flow issue as suggested or airlock. I'd pull the heater hoses off and "flow test) it ;) Verify that it is unrestricted, the garden hose should suffice for that. Flow it in both directions watching for colour/contamination.

[bee utey]

I've noticed when doing LPG conversions that the thermostat on a P38 shuts off flow to the heater circuit when fully open for radiator cooling flow. So if you're idling and the system is not up to scratch the heater will cease to provide heat. New radiator, thermostat and viscous fan clutch would be on my shopping list before the weather gets any warmer. See Mario & Heather at Roverlord Off Road Spares. [bigsmile1]

[TheTree]

I have an Aussie Desert Cooler radiator in mine :)

Home (http://www.aussiedesertcooler.com.au/)

Steve

[PeterH]

Welcome aboard, congrats on the new Rangie!
The best thing I can suggest is to keep on top of the maintenance, like any vehicle, do the regular things on time (oil & filter/air filter, etc).
I have found keeping on top of these things does keep it running well and less chance of breakdowns.
Also check your pollen filters, they are probably filthy if they haven't been changed for awhile Range Rover Pollen Filter Replacement (http://www.rangerovers.net/maintenance/pollenfilter.html)
The EAS will need attention at some stage, leaks can develop, or the valve block will need a new set of o rings to keep it going properly, but that can all be done yourself, with the help of this forum and you tube searches.
The HEVAC will also probably need some attention at some stage, usually blend motors can fail, leaving you with hot air blowing on one side and cold on the other, which gets annoying.
This can also be done yourself, (I just replaced one on mine yesterday!)
You will end up being a P38 expert after a while, it is pretty satisfying when you fix things yourself.
A copy of the rave manual is a must if you have not got one already, also a way of reading fault codes is a huge help. I have a faultmate extreme which has been excellent, there are also other units that will do the job. It's not something you use all the time, but when you do need it, you are very glad you have it!
The great thing about P38's is pretty much any problem you may come across has already been dealt with by someone else and you can find tons of great info to help you.
All the best!
Cheers, Pete.

[DiscoMick]

I haven't seen anyone mention rust - don't Rangies rust?
Maybe a clean and rust treatment?
Re. radiators you can drop the bottom hose to empty and then put a hose in the top and let the water bubble through. It's not as good as a proper flush, but it could help.
New radiators are not that dear.
I would pull up all the carpets and check for rust.

[Keithy P38]

P38's have held up extremely well over the years! I'm yet to see one with rust in nearly 10yrs of P38ing and AULROing.

Cheers
Keithy

[prelude]

unfortunatly, they definatly do rust (and/or corrode)

I have several panels where the aluminium has started to corrode and is breaking through the paint, also, the tailgate is made out of metal and it will start to rust there. Mine rusts just below the window seal/cover strip and along the bottom where the two pieces of sheet metal that make up the in- and out-side are pressed and folded together. I would certainly take care of protecting that to prevent it from rusting. Other than that, the chassis is remarkably well protected and seems to not be very prone to rusting, even in a wet and salty environment but again, eventually they do rust :)

Cheers,
-P

[PaulToll]

I forgot to mention earlier, Crankshaft Position Sensors (CKP) usually die around the 200,000km mark in our beloved P38's too!

....or sooner if your engine overheats. [biggrin]

[PaulToll]

unfortunatly, they definatly do rust (and/or corrode)

I have several panels where the aluminium has started to corrode and is breaking through the paint, also, the tailgate is made out of metal and it will start to rust there. Mine rusts just below the window seal/cover strip and along the bottom where the two pieces of sheet metal that make up the in- and out-side are pressed and folded together. I would certainly take care of protecting that to prevent it from rusting. Other than that, the chassis is remarkably well protected and seems to not be very prone to rusting, even in a wet and salty environment but again, eventually they do rust :)

Cheers,
-P

I bought my truck in Cairns so had the joy of replacing the rear tail struts and cables (cables were heavily rusted). Also, the plastic pipes in the engine bay were that brittle they snapped in your fingers, but I was told this was a problem with the plastic pipes in Oz weather. I've since changed them to rubber with no further problems.
I've had a few settling in issues with my unit and while I entertained upgrading it, I found I couldn't do it.
The mechanic has told me I have around $8k of work coming up in the front and rear tailshafts and visc coupling, but I'm thinking of fitting an e-locker and true trac, so any issues will be resolved at the same time.

[prelude]

8k worth of work on two drive shafts and a viscous coupling? Mate, I have no clue about prices and rates down under but that seems prohibitively expensive! The viscous couplings are expensive but no longer available new so you'd need a refurbished one from ashcroft. I reckon for that kind of money you can get a refurbished transfer case (which includes the viscous coupling), refurbished diffs incl. lockers and diff pinning from ashcroft, double cardan drive shafts and heavy duty half shafts from lucky8 and still have money to spare on shipping all that to .au

Cheers,
-P

[mtb_gary]

I bought my truck in Cairns so had the joy of replacing the rear tail struts and cables (cables were heavily rusted). Also, the plastic pipes in the engine bay were that brittle they snapped in your fingers, but I was told this was a problem with the plastic pipes in Oz weather. I've since changed them to rubber with no further problems.
I've had a few settling in issues with my unit and while I entertained upgrading it, I found I couldn't do it.
The mechanic has told me I have around $8k of work coming up in the front and rear tailshafts and visc coupling, but I'm thinking of fitting an e-locker and true trac, so any issues will be resolved at the same time.
$8k worth of work sounds like difinitely over the top!!!
With a hiost replacing the transfer case complete with VC should only take a couple of hours. Removing and refitting front and rer shafts an hour tops. Even to take 8 hours for the complete job and chage $1k for labour thats $7k for parts. Shop around for a realistic mechanic who knows Land Rovers or even better p38's.
If you've got the space you could buy your own hoist and tool kit for less than the estimate and do it yourself?

I'm not a mechanic but working on these cars is not too difficult. Just take your time and read through relevant section of RAVE before starting your project.

Just out of curiosity why does your mechanic think you need a new Viscous Coupling and prop shaafts?

[PaulToll]

I had asked him to check the condition of the under gear because at the time I was deliberating between keeping the RR or upgrading it to a 322/20 or higher.
I resolved to stick with the P38, old school, like to have more control of my truck when negotiating hills etc.

So, the mechanic just gave me an estimate only.
Obviously he would need to check the gear more thoroughly.

My thoughts were if I added dual lockers, as most of it would be down he could check the viscous at the same time.

I had the truck out on the weekend at an advanced driver training exercise, so she took a bit of hiding, but it held strong.
Standard road tyres as well and never got stuck.
Awesome vehicles.