Attaching chequer plate

[dages]

When I brought my 02 defender the bloke had cut 4mm chequer strips for the sills and a sheet for the inside of the back door.

I don't dare yet add weight to the back door until I get a wheel carrier on it, but can anyone suggest a way to attach strips to the sill? Any advie would be appreciated.

I have a step and kick the heck out the sill each time getting in.

Brett.

[one_iota]

Defender = Rivets

[dages]

Enough said - Cheers.

[loanrangie]

If you dont want to drill any holes then silicone will do.

[agrojnr]

Don't use silicone as it eats at ali you the stuff they use on windscreens or use rivets

Adam :wink:

[LandyAndy]

Hi Brett
The stuff you need is Sikaflex acrylic adheseive.Its a marine product,very strong.They actually glue cars together with the stuff,its the mastic looking stuff on the joints.Costs around $20to$25 a tube.
Andrew

[dages]

Thanks guy's. Yeah was hoping that an adhesive could do the trick, allowing me to remove plate if I wish and also to make sure no rattles with the sill.

I have actually used that acrylic adheseive on a bondwood boat once, it would more than do the trick. Don't think I would ever get it off the paintwork though if I really wanted to emove chequer plate.

[CraigE]

Be warned with Sikaflex - only apply it if you do not wnat to get it back off - ever. Great stuff and I use it heaps. Rivets are better on a Fender.

[Grizzly_Adams]

G'day CraigE. Why do you say to use Rivets on a 'Fender instead of Sikaflex :?: Surely Sikaflex would be better at sealing the checkerplate so that you don't end up with water sitting underneath it :?:

[tombraider]

Lara's ( 8) ) Check plate was part of the Tombraider package.

The bonnet plate is rivetted on, the rest held by stainless countersunk bolts with nylocs behind.

This includes sills, Guards, Rear Quarters.

Cheers
Mike

[CraigE]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>G'day CraigE. Why do you say to use Rivets on a 'Fender instead of Sikaflex Surely Sikaflex would be better at sealing the checkerplate so that you don't end up with water sitting underneath it
[/b][/quote]
Grizzly, yep you would be right if all you did was rivet them on. Sikaflex is great and will not allow water in. My point is that it is very hard to get off once set. You would basically take most of the paint off if you ever wanted to remove the sill covers. Riveting them on is only part of the answer. I am not sure what was put in behind mine, but there is some sort of coating (not silastic). Another good alternative would be to caot the surfaces with lanolin grease or something similar.You could also use a rubber lip similar to the trim used behind flares to stop water ingress.

[dages]

Thanks evertyone, thought this may not be as simple as it seems.

So Tomb Raider, do they just have straight stainless bolts, or is it in some way sealed?

Also for those with chequer plate on the sills is it of value? As I said with steps I kick my sills at the moment so it's really for aesthetics.

Appreciate all your help. I will be putting a plate on the inside back door an will post photo's on the site.

Brett.

[tombraider]

Originally posted by dages
So Tomb Raider, do they just have straight stainless bolts, or is it in some way sealed?

Also for those with chequer plate on the sills is it of value? As I said with steps I kick my sills at the moment so it's really for aesthetics.

Brett.

The Guard top plates have expanded neoprene (wetsuit) material underneath (cut to size/shape) and then the plate is just bolted over that.

The Bonnet plate is rivetted straight to the bonnet (additional bracing is rivetted between lower section of bonnet and plate.

Sill plates are just bolted up straight to the panel, no spacer/seal is fitted. The sill is just a single thickness of plate anyhow, so the check plate just protects and stiffens the fragile panel. It is curved however to wrap over the top of the panel under the door.

Cheers
Mike

[DEFENDERZOOK]

<span style="color:blue">why not use a product called Dripcheck.....?
it is a non hardening sealant used mainly for sealing windscreens.....
and is probably also used in the roof joint on the fenders where the front
and the rear panel join to stop the leaks.......


use this on the back of the panels before you rivet/bolt them in place.....

if you need to remove them this will clean off a lot easier than any of the glues.....</span>

[Jimmy]

I've got a better idea Dages. Why don't you package all that checker plate up and send it to me in Queensland and I can put it on my truck, then I can send you pics of how it looks??? ha ha ha ....

If the rivets or gel stuff don't work I always find Tie-wire handy.

Later
Jimmy

[abaddonxi]

Well, if we're going that way, I always find Gaffer tape works, and it will cut out that whistling noise you get from the wind blowing in under that sadly rivetted chequerplate.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Cheers
Simon

[Disco300Tdi]

Originally posted by agrojnr
Don't use silicone as it eats at ali you the stuff they use on windscreens or use rivets

Adam :wink:

Silicone is available in a neutral or acidic cure
Use the neutral cure and seal the edges.

[cewilson]

Personally - I just rivited mine on. Didn't even consider the thought that water will get trapped underneath it - but not too concerned either really.

As for practicality of it - hell I reckon it's one of the best ideas. I did my front guards, as I kept bending them every time I climbed up onto the front of my roof-rack.

The rear guards where done because I bent the crap out of them in the Watagans one Sunday arvo - and on top of hiding the damage it has really strengthened that part of the Defender up a lot.

I've seen people do the sill bit above my side steps - but it's something I personally haven't done or seen a need for. I figure if my side-steps don't protect it, then I'm in trouble even if I had the checker-plate there.

So for me, the checker-plate is there to strengthen areas that needed it - not for looks!