EAS question.

[deano2469]

Hi all, I know this is a sticky subject, but I have questions that I've not had to ask before. I have unlock and have cleared faults . It will depressurise the tank, which is getting air, pump ran 20 mins without switching off. I used shop air to put as much as I dared , reconnected and still nothing. I try to make it go to a height setting, nothing. No clicks or anything. My question is. If the computer card attached to valve block was no good ( swapped, dodgily prior to purchase) would I get faults on unlock. I've got no fault on dash, but four lights on dash. When I bought the car , we raised it up with pump. Only a few inches and that was it using unlock. I've done my other car too many times to count so I am familiar with it. I have just rebuilt the valve block and reassembled pump ( pit brass bush back in its holder) and reassembled it all. Fuses and relays are all good. Again no faults at all on unlock . Dean

[DieselLSE]

Hi Deano,

If the EAS dash lights are still all on it indicates that you have not succeeded in clearing the error codes. Is this what you mean by "four lights on dash"?
It's hard to diagnose from this distance(!) but I suspect you may be right in suspecting either the valve block controller or perhaps the EAS computer. I'd also be suspicious of the thermal cutout. Has the compressor been overhauled?

[deano2469]

Hi Deano,

If the EAS dash lights are still all on it indicates that you have not succeeded in clearing the error codes. Is this what you mean by "four lights on dash"?
It's hard to diagnose from this distance(!) but I suspect you may be right in suspecting either the valve block controller or perhaps the EAS computer. I'd also be suspicious of the thermal cutout. Has the compressor been overhauled?
hi mate, yeah pump has been butchered in the past too. i just swapped a good piston from an old spare i had that was near new. two of the four threads to bolt the valves on top were stripped so i had to tap and find two new bolts to reassemble it. it pumps much harder now. i did notice a burn mark on on of the pins in the pump plug but it runs on eas and crossing pins in the fuse box. the tank gets pressure but doesn't seem to want to raise any springs with ignition on or off. there is no engine in car yet, but don't think that should matter.thermal cut out might be a drama too i guess but no way to test it. once engine is built and goes in i can swap everything from my other p38 into this one , so not tragic would just like to get it going again...cheers.

[DieselLSE]

The EAS ecu in the Body Control Module will be expecting an input from the engine, handbrake and door switches. Probably other inputs I've forgotten about, too. This will almost certainly be causing your problems. Frankly, I'd go ahead and fit the motor and get everything plugged in correctly before worrying about the EAS.

[finallyrangie]

I am pretty sure the eas will only move the vehicle with the engine running, I think it needs a reading from the crank angle sensor before it will activate, I know because when my flex plate shattered the after market diesel engine kept going but the computer shut down the eas because it wasn't getting a crank angle signal so assumed the engine was off.

I would go ahead and fit the engine, it may well cure the problem

[deano2469]

I am pretty sure the eas will only move the vehicle with the engine running, I think it needs a reading from the crank angle sensor before it will activate, I know because when my flex plate shattered the after market diesel engine kept going but the computer shut down the eas because it wasn't getting a crank angle signal so assumed the engine was off.

I would go ahead and fit the engine, it may well cure the problem
hi again guys, DieselLSE and finallyrangie thanks for the info. I suspected there must be another reason. i will put the motor back in and see what happens. I will keep you posted on progress.

Deano

[Keithy P38]

Finallyrangie is correct - the motor needs to be running for the EAS to operate as usual. It will only lower to the bump stops on command if the motor is off.

As always, doors need to be closed and feet off the brakes to allow suspension movement as well.

Cheers
Keithy

[deano2469]

Finallyrangie is correct - the motor needs to be running for the EAS to operate as usual. It will only lower to the bump stops on command if the motor is off.

As always, doors need to be closed and feet off the brakes to allow suspension movement as well.

Cheers
KeithyJust FYI, I being interest in this case....I'm not young...this is a shot of the fuse box I just replaced...better starting point now me thinks.https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/85.jpg

[Keithy P38]

Standard issue RL7 burn marks ;-)

[Chivalry]

You could also buy (or make) one of the emergency kits for the EAS as well if you don't already have one.

EAS Emergency Inflation Device - Air Suspension - Range Rover P38 1994 to 2002 (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/EAS-Emergency-Inflation-Device-Air-Suspension-Range-Rover-P38-1994-to-2002-/162659730940?)

[deano2469]

You could also buy (or make) one of the emergency kits for the EAS as well if you don't already have one.

EAS Emergency Inflation Device - Air Suspension - Range Rover P38 1994 to 2002 (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/EAS-Emergency-Inflation-Device-Air-Suspension-Range-Rover-P38-1994-to-2002-/162659730940?)Hello gents, well...new fuse box, pulled pump apart and refixed brass bush in housing, changed out piston to one with a better seal , found a dozen air leaks and charged battery...found to be biggest issue next to front left sensor reading way out. Heat shield missing so made a new one and swapped out level sensor. Now, EAS on , pump on...push standard height and off she goes. Having to pump up manually, but will go up and down to heights I set....still no engine. Pistons should arrive this week at rimmers then post to hear. Rebuilt valve block as well. I have a rescue kit on my old rangie that I will swap, will do whole EAS if have drama once engine is in and running. Thanks to all for advice. I will put pic of sensor readings and settings for heights I put in..it's about 10-15mm above where it should be I think. Let me know if I'm too far away.https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/384.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/385.jpg

[deano2469]

Swapped sensor at front drivers side. It had a heat shield missing so made a new one...another problem solved. New engine being built as I write so hopefully all together in next month or so.[emoji16]