Tie rod ends - how to undo?

[JohnboyLandy]

Hi All, the post title says it all, what's the best way to undo these. I'm try with rod in the vice and applying rotational pressure to the tie dod end, after undoing the clamp and application of crc.

Any suggestions appreciated.

Cheers
John

[cjc_td5]

If the tie rod end is stuck in the tube it might need to soak in a bucket of kero for a week or 2...

Otherwise try the old tricks of applying heat etc?

[JDNSW]

Heat and application of penetrating oil, repeat. Oxy can be used, but don't get it hot enough to affect the heat treatment - not hot enough to burn pain. A heat gun will probably get it hot enough. To go a step further, you could pack the tie rod end in ices (or better, dry ice) and heat only the tube.

The other treatment that may help by breaking the rust is to lay the threaded part of the tube on a flat anvil and belt it with a hammer, preferably brass or lead faced, while rotating it.

[weeds]

Although not much help at the moment but.........lots of Anti-sieze on re-assembly

[whitehillbilly64]

Just has this problem with works, dare I say, LandCruiser.
Had to apply lot of heat to get them to let go.
Guess you know, one end is LH thread, the other end RH.

whitehillbilly

[donh54]

The three big "H"'s -Heat, Hammer, and Heave!
WRT anti sieze, watch out for some of the copper based ones. They can become a very effective glue if exposed to salt water and/or dust.

[JohnboyLandy]

Thanks boys, I got them off !! CRC and big spanner did the trick, no heat required !!

Cheers,
John

[JohnboyLandy]

So, finally a question on anti-seize, if copper based ones are not the go here, what's the best type to use ?

Thanks
John

[Homestar]

I've never had any issues with Never Seize which is copper based - been using if for decades, but by the same token I've never dunked any of my vehicles into any salt water so I can't comment on that, but it survives dust no problems - I've encountered plenty of that. There are Nickel based anti seize compounds - I think Loctite do one.

[JDNSW]

I managed to pick up a big pot of a nickel based one (can't remember the brand) at a clearing sale years ago - and its still going. No issues with it.

[JohnboyLandy]

Thanks guys for the feedback on copper and nickel based anti-seize compounds. I only have a small amount of copper anti-seize I use for stainless bolts on my bike, so I need to buy some more for the Landie.

I noticed there is also metal free ones, say from Dynagrip, I might grab a can of that.

Cheers,
John

[inch]

Probably a bit late to join in on this one, but.... Did the tie ends on the young blokes S3 couple of weeks ago. Lots of heat and a long section of steel tube over the link thread.

Another trick; if the old ones are tight to get out its usually down to corrosion, which leaves a mess in the threads, this can make sliding the new ones in a bit of a heave, almost as tough as getting the old ones out.

If you take the old tie end, cut straight down the thread on opposing sides with a 3mm (or thereabouts) angle grinder, you create a very handy tap to chase the thread (The cost of a proper tap that size is eye watering). This chases out all the old crud making replacement a flip site easier. Sorry no photos, old ones now in the bin!