The dirtiest TD5 engine you ever saw, but I still need your precious advice.

[Robthebob]

This is a 2005 TD5 EGR bought as a mistake under advice of a friend who considers himself an expert in 2012 from Sisters of Mercy in Haiti where I live (sorry, not an Ozzy guy). End of june the engine stopped as the engine had oil in the water system. Thick black oil coming out of the water tank. A mechanic tried a quick fix which didn't work, then took off the radiator to get it cleaned (which was done) but then never showed up again to put the radiator back and finish the job. After some research I found out that a fault in the cylinder head gasket could be a probable cause of the symptom. I then documented myself as much as possible and took the head down. Some bolts made me sweat but worst of all was to discover the dirt underneath the visible parts. I will not be able to do a clean job in this moment. No new engine but just a good clean and replacement of all gaskets.

One more question: how do I rotate the engine to clean the cylinders and get it back where it is to mount back the head?
Thank you all very very much.

http://robertostephenson.com/TD5_problems

[justinc]

This is a 2005 TD5 EGR bought as a mistake under advice of a friend who considers himself an expert in 2012 from Sisters of Mercy in Haiti where I live (sorry, not an Ozzy guy). End of june the engine stopped as the engine had oil in the water system. Thick black oil coming out of the water tank. A mechanic tried a quick fix which didn't work, then took off the radiator to get it cleaned (which was done) but then never showed up again to put the radiator back and finish the job. After some research I found out that a fault in the cylinder head gasket could be a probable cause of the symptom. I then documented myself as much as possible and took the head down. Some bolts made me sweat but worst of all was to discover the dirt underneath the visible parts. I will not be able to do a clean job in this moment. No new engine but just a good clean and replacement of all gaskets.

One more question: how do I rotate the engine to clean the cylinders and get it back where it is to mount back the head?
Thank you all very very much.

http://robertostephenson.com/TD5_problems

Hi and welcome!☺

The only way to rotate the engine safely is a 2 person job. Somebody needs to lifr rhe camshaft sprocket up to maintain tension on the chain while rotating the engine. Clockwise direction when viewed from the front.
Aaand i hate to break it to you but i would say that the oil cooler is actually at fault here.. not the cylinder head 😢.

Jc

[Robthebob]

Hi and welcome!☺

The only way to rotate the engine safely is a 2 person job. Somebody needs to lifr rhe camshaft sprocket up to maintain tension on the chain while rotating the engine. Clockwise direction when viewed from the front.
Aaand i hate to break it to you but i would say that the oil cooler is actually at fault here.. not the cylinder head 😢.

Jc

Hi Jc, thanks for the answer. How do I return to the exact actual point when rotating the engine? and what makes you think that this is more of a oil cooler fault? Anyway I can confirm this? And if, is this the part to buy? TD5 Oil Cooler Repair Kit - Paddock Spares (http://www.paddockspares.com/td5-oil-cooler-repair-kit.html)

[djam1]

Hi Jc, thanks for the answer. How do I return to the exact actual point when rotating the engine? and what makes you think that this is more of a oil cooler fault? Anyway I can confirm this? And if, is this the part to buy? TD5 Oil Cooler Repair Kit - Paddock Spares (http://www.paddockspares.com/td5-oil-cooler-repair-kit.html)

Cant help with the answer to the engine rotating but it will definitely be the oil cooler, you can see from your photos that the wrong coolant has been used
The other thing I would be looking at is the coolant galleries in the head where they pass near the fire ring my head was toast when the wrong coolant was used.
The Cooler repair kit you mention is on the right path I personally prefer to buy quality parts though.

[Robthebob]

Thank you Djam1, would a Britparts replacement be a better choice?

[Robthebob]

I also need your answers, if you have any, about:
When taking EGR off, what to do of the blue pipe lines? see photo http://robertostephenson.com/TD5_problems/content/20170825_154617_large.html

And the EGR cooler water hoses, can they be connect together once the cooler off?

Is it ok for the breaks fluid reservoir to be mounted with an angle? as you see in the photos: http://robertostephenson.com/TD5_problems/content/20170906_154043_large.html and next photo ?

The exhaust manifold had 2 gaskets fitted. Should I just put one new one? Check photo at link and following. There is much corrosion on the manifold wall, would this be ok anyway? http://robertostephenson.com/TD5_problems/content/20170825_165154_large.html

One of the manifold studs unscrewed from the block. How do I fix it back in? http://robertostephenson.com/TD5_problems/content/20170906_154121_large.html

Any advice on how to clean cylinders and head from rust and deposits? check photo at link and following: http://robertostephenson.com/TD5_problems/content/20170909_114828_large.html

Thank you all!

[nismine01]

If you turn the engine over twice, piston #1 up twice the timing marks on the cam gear and the chain will line up again.

Just check their position before you start for a reference when done.

Cheers

Mike

[JR1]

I'll second the oil cooler. Had a small hole in mine recently. One week of flushing the engine, professional clean of the (recently replaced) radiator, new hoses and $3500 later, we were running again.
The hole was tiny -only seen after cleaning the cooler and was originally not noticed. Good luck.

[PhilipA]

When taking EGR off, what to do of the blue pipe lines?
If you are taking off the EGR , then you may as well remove the solonoids and block off the vacuum line from the brake line to the solonoids. If you remove the electrical plugs from teh solonoids then yhe ECU does not fault.


The exhaust manifold had 2 gaskets fitted.
The exhaust manifold is probably warped. check the face of it with a straight edge and machine it flat. At the same time either slot or open the end and next stud holes in the manifold to 10MM.
You can just screw the stud back in, BUT it is always best to replace the studs or they can break without warning. Mercedes studs also fit and are stronger.
I don't know if it is 2 gaskets as I think there are two halves to the stock gasket and they come apart when old.
The waterways certainly look really bad. You should clean up the head and block with scotchbrite and maybe clean the pistons with a blunt scraper. I have never seen such crappy waterways but maybe soak them in degreaser for a couple of days?weeks?
It looks like the LR has not done any hard work for a long time , thus all the carbon in the head and combustion chambers. Is there a mechanic anywhere with a hot cleaning bath?
I managed to clean out my inlet manifold with a high pressure cleaner so maybe that is a start.
Regards Philip A
I suggest that you get the sisters of Mercy to pray a bit also.LOL

[djam1]

Wow that is expensive!


I'll second the oil cooler. Had a small hole in mine recently. One week of flushing the engine, professional clean of the (recently replaced) radiator, new hoses and $3500 later, we were running again.
The hole was tiny -only seen after cleaning the cooler and was originally not noticed. Good luck.

[REDTD5110]

The reservoir that is on an angle is for your power steering fluid, not your brake fluid. Don't worry about the angle.

I also agree that the culprit will actually be your oil cooler.

While the head is off you should get it machined, maybe even clean up the valves and lap them if you want.

Also get the exhaust manifold machined, it will most likely be warped

[djam1]

Not sure the rules of the forum will allow me to respond to this in the way I desire
I think there are better quality parts out there



Thank you Djam1, would a Britparts replacement be a better choice?

[Robthebob]

Not sure the rules of the forum will allow me to respond to this in the way I desire
I think there are better quality parts out there

you make me laugh! But I am still locked by what I find online and this option is one of the best I found listed. The others look cheaper (and are cheaper).

[Dihusky]

Looking through all the photos and the extent of the damage to the head, valve seat that can be seen, tops of pistons and bores I really don't see any other option than to strip the engine and check everything. You have no idea what condition the crank and mains are in so I don't see much point in discussing EGRs etc until you have the basics of the engine sorted. You could have rust pitting in the bores so your compression will be cactus, turning over could score the pistons, if you have rust in the bores, what's the crank, mains and big ends look like?

There is no point throwing good money at this donk unless you know everything from the sump plug up is in good order. From all the images you have presented, this engine is stuffed.

There is a multitude of items that have to be checked in a planned and methodical manner.

It may be cheaper to try and find a running motor from a wreckers in the US and ship it over than try and rebuild this mess.

I am sorry but that's my '2 bobs worth', from someone who started their working life on AEC Diesels 45 yrs ago

[justinc]

That engine is not going to be running anytime soon. A used complete tlrunning one is your cheapest option right now. A full rebuild of the one in those pics (which i didn't see until now) is the only other solution.
Jc

[DeanoH]

Looking through your photos is like watching a horror show :vampire:.

A picture that struck me as significant in this sad slide show is this one


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/90-110-130-defender-county/129550d1505601866-dirtiest-td5-engine-you-ever-saw-but-i-still-need-your-precious-advice-bore.jpg


From an Australian engine rebuild perspective it looks to me like a hopeless case. The time and effort required to rebuild along with parts costs would make it more expensive than buying a used replacement engine though the cost and availability dynamics may be different in Haiti.
No amount of honing is going to make these bores any good :no2:, so new liners would be required along with all the other bits needed to restore this engine to any semblance of good order. It may be a better solution to replace the engine with whatever diesel engine is available, similar to the re powered American autos on Cuba.

Sorry to 'rain on your parade' and I hope others here can disagree with me and offer a better solution.

Deano :)

[slug_burner]

Cummins Crate Engines - Get Ready to Repower - Cummins Engines (https://cumminsengines.com/repower.aspx)

It all comes down to budget and how long you want to keep the car for.

Having taken the head off it is not going to be a cheap solution to get it all back together again.

A Cummins crate engine might be worth considering, it comes dressed so it would address a few potential problems you will have with ancillaries on your existing engine.

Good luck with it.

[djam1]

Sorry if I misled you Rob I never saw this picture as I was only using my phone but as others say its stuffed


Looking through your photos is like watching a horror show :vampire:.

A picture that struck me as significant in this sad slide show is this one


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/90-110-130-defender-county/129550d1505601866-dirtiest-td5-engine-you-ever-saw-but-i-still-need-your-precious-advice-bore.jpg


From an Australian engine rebuild perspective it looks to me like a hopeless case. The time and effort required to rebuild along with parts costs would make it more expensive than buying a used replacement engine though the cost and availability dynamics may be different in Haiti.
No amount of honing is going to make these bores any good :no2:, so new liners would be required along with all the other bits needed to restore this engine to any semblance of good order. It may be a better solution to replace the engine with whatever diesel engine is available, similar to the re powered American autos on Cuba.

Sorry to 'rain on your parade' and I hope others here can disagree with me and offer a better solution.

Deano :)

[rangieman]

Cummins Crate Engines - Get Ready to Repower - Cummins Engines (https://cumminsengines.com/repower.aspx)

It all comes down to budget and how long you want to keep the car for.

Having taken the head off it is not going to be a cheap solution to get it all back together again.

A Cummins crate engine might be worth considering, it comes dressed so it would address a few potential problems you will have with ancillaries on your existing engine.

Good luck with it.
Mmmmm here ya go [thumbsupbig]
Access Denied (https://www.trucksales.com.au/buy/private/SSE-AD-2669128/Cummins-ISF-28/)

[Bearman]

Mmmmm here ya go [thumbsupbig]
Access Denied (https://www.trucksales.com.au/buy/private/SSE-AD-2669128/Cummins-ISF-28/)

Is nothing sacred anymore!!!!!!!!. I see Chinese writing on the ID plate of that Cummins engine.