Defender Extrem Main Headlight Switch Block

[CraigE]

Has any one else had problems with the main headlight switch block failing?
I pulled mine out the other day after lights failed, after checking fuses relays etc. The main power feed into the block had obviously gotten hot and the pins had recessed into the white poly block, thus not allowing the switch contact to make contact, no lights. Anyone got an alternative switch block or modification? Speaking to the original owner he had it happen to him twice. Third time and the Fender is not even 6 years old is pretty poor and it had a different switch for the last 2 years the previous owner had it (did not look right so the LR dealer replaced it prior to sale). So 3 in 4 years!!
It appears that the whole unit must be replaced not just the poly block. Will have a look tonight and see if I can modify it. Any difference between early Defenders and TD5 Defenders. I can not see any difference but the pricing is about $140 dearer.
Craig
:cry: :cry:

[tombraider]

Quick question....

What globes u running in the headlights?

Cheers
Mike

[hiline]

mines a 2000 TD5 130 never had a problem with my lights

[Fendi]

Here in Germany this problem happens often.

The best you can do, is changing to the switch of the TDI...
These have been stronger.

[CraigE]

Tombraider : just standard 55/60 s at the momment in the headlights with 100w Narva spotties. Nothing over the top.
Fendi - thanks for that comment, I am looking at the four wheel drives catalogue at the moment and the Defender all model replacement is $88AUD and the TD5 is $220 go figure. They look the same. May just order the $88 and get what would be the tdi unit. Have never seen anything like this in any other vehicle before.
Not a huge issue just damn annoying as auto sparkies have nothing similar in a switch block and can only replace the whole thing with a generic item.
It is only the plastic block mount for the pins. Now if they could just supply this the rest would last a lifetime. Have just got the little pins out and will solder them in and see if it will last until I get another. Might just get a generic push/pull unit.
Cheers
Craig

[Utemad]

Sounds like the switch is switching the main power for the headlights and not just switching relays.

Pirahna sell a loom that has its own relays so it only uses the original wiring to switch the new loom. Installing this loom should make your lights brighter too due to less voltage drop.

You could make your switch work again and buy this loom. I think the loom is around the $120 mark ???. We have them in our work utes.
Alternatively you could just make the loom yourself. The switch wouldn't have to be perfect as it wouldn't be switching 10 amps or more anymore.

This should prevent the problem from ever recurring again plus giving brighter lights as well

[sclarke]

make your own loom or get a Piranha one... not cheap, but what is a switch worth??

dont run the Driving lights thru the switch. make sure its run thru a relay.

[one_iota]

I followed Projects 2 and 3 here:

http://www.aulro.com/modules.php?name=Foru...=viewforum&f=24 (http://www.aulro.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewforum&f=24)

It uses the existing low current draw wiring to activate higher capacity wiring loom via relays

The results were most satisfactory and I can say that my ADR compliant headlights are now illuminating.

[George130]

The problem will be the outer most blue wire Furthest to the left. If you twist it slightly clockwise it will tighten up and everything will work again. I did mine 4 months ago and it hasn't played up since. At the time I was trying all sorts of things to solve the problem and discovered this just before building my own switch.

[Frenchie]

I replaced my switch recently (same problem) and it cost me $78 from Britparts (for a Td5 one).

[CraigE]

The spotties are on a relay.
It was where the main power wire (brown) feed comes in and caused the two copper pins to recess into the poly block so they were not making contact. Have resined and soldered so it works for now. Just amazes me that the fuse, fusable link or wiring did not go first. i would have thought that the headlight power out (red wire) would have been the one to fail if anything being much lighter gauge.
Wiil use the wiring harness diagram and make a harness up thanks to Traxide.

[tombraider]

From ARB direct to my email box I received this Memo a few weeks ago.

Cheers Mike


TO: All ARB Distributors DATE: 02/12/2005

FROM: xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

SUBJECT: Landrover Head Lamp Upgrades


Hello everyone,



It has come to our attention that the head lamp switch assemblies in Land Rover vehicles may not be able to handle any increase in the circuit loading. Upgrading from the standard 60/55 watt globes, without installing an ARB Modular Headlight Wiring Loom (M002) may cause the contacts in the switch to fail.



This does not only apply to our 110/80 globes which normally require a loom on any vehicle, but in this case it also applies to the X51 Fatboys as they run the Super Low Beam 80 watt filaments with a 60 watt high beam.



It does not apply to the M13 and M17 globes as they only consume the standard 60/55 watts, even though, like the fatboys, their lighting performance is much more than those power consumption figures would indicate.



Please also be aware that the genuine Land Rover switch assemblies are a very costly item to replace, and that ARB will not accept any non statutory liabilities for such switch failures where the loom has not been fitted.



Please make sure that all your sales staff are fully aware of this issue, and advise your customers accordingly when selling head lamp upgrades.



Our next price list will be updated with appropriate warnings for Land Rover owners.





Thanks and Kind Regards







xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

National Customer Service Coordinator

[YRVGreen]

nice to see they added the kisses at the bottom
xxxxxx
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

What I dont get, is that since this is a LR prob why hasnt HLR sent warning out to us? It isnt like we are talking about RR or discos, These are Defenders, it is allmost implyed by the style of 4wd that we would be putting more lights on at some point,.. I am allmost suprised they dont come with flood light switches ready to plug your own lights into from the factory

[CraigE]

I can feel a generic Hella/Narva push pull unit rated a little better coming on with a Traxide plan harness coming on.
Has Traxide started making the kits yet?

[Michael2]

I was helping fit an aux. lighting switch (the one with the little orange light) to a TD5 wagon recently. The switch actually switches an earth relay and then has a feed coming in from the lights end of the relay with power to illuminate the little light. (5pin switch).

We couldn't figure it out for ages, then we googled the part no. and found someone elses dilemma on a German Land Rover chat room. We hit the translate button on the google search engine, and were then able to make out the meaning of the discussion. - Problem solved.

However since the switch was fitted by the LR Dealer, one must assume it was fitted correctly, or the wiring has been modified further down the loom.

-Michael2