Gearbox & transfer case removal/install - Puma

[Olsey]

Hi all,

This coming long weekend I'm planning to drop the gearbox and transfer case. The main reason is to install the new g/box breather fitting for Nugget's new 5-port breather. I also need to change oils in both g/box and t/case anyway, so it's an opportune time. I plan to remove the t/case to inspect the output shaft as well.

The question I have is are there any parts that would be good to renew while I have the opportunity, e.g. seals, bearings, washers etc...

I'll be using my old man's car 4-post car hoist that has a 2T-jack attached to it for lifting heavy components. This should make it a relatively straight forward job!

I will be following the workshop manual and new Haynes manual but if you have any additional tips/things to look out for would be great!

[MLD]

probably a bit late to source the parts. The Ashcroft MT82 spud shaft replacement is a worthwhile upgrade while you have it all apart.

[komaterpillar]

Thrust washers in the centre diff and intermediate shaft seal

[POD]

Pulling the gearbox is a huge job to undertake just for the sake of a breather- removing a floor panel would make much more sense. If you're dead set on pulling it out, I'd be replacing the adapter shaft set, original LR parts are fine as long as you grease the splines- a sachet of the correct grease has a LR part number and costs about $5. If you're going to the trouble of dropping the gearbox and transfer, might as well have the transfer case intermediate-shaft bore sleeved while you're at it.

[Olsey]

Thanks for the input guys!

I'll probably only drop it enough to be able to work on the breather port. Unfortunately I can't get to the port with it as it is, even accessing it via floor panel under cubby box. Though I haven't tried accessing it via the space where the gear/diff-lock sticks are. Might try that first.

I might leave inspecting the output shaft. I have a feeling the shaft has been greased, as there is blue/green grease near one of the holes at the t/case. Also, I'm not looking to do any remote travel for some months, just mainly around town, so if the shaft fails then it won't be too much of a drama. The Ashcroft Output Shaft kit is one thing I planned to get but will wait till March next year when out of warranty. Plus I have the funds to do it then. I'll also look to sleeve the t/case.

Or I might just wait till I need to drop the whole lot to do breather port. I definitely understand it's a big job.

[DiscoMick]

Will the exhaust be in the way if dropping it?

[justinc]

Will the exhaust be in the way if dropping it?

No. Undo it ar the joint at the start of the middle muffler it hangs down a fair bit. It follows the engine downward.i lesve the engine pipe and cat in place even when doing the clutch. I can do these in my sleep now..😣😣😣

[Olsey]

Just contacted Mario from Roverlord to order some parts that need to be renewed with reinstalling the g/box. The workshop manual states to not reuse the o-ring seal for the clutch slave cylinder fluid hose and refit with a new one.

Mario replied with Land Rover saying the o-ring is not available and only comes with clutch slave cylinder. Is the use of a new o-ring essential? Could it be a generic size and find similar sized one from an auto parts shop?

[justinc]

Never had one leak. Ever.

[justinc]

A word of advice i would replace the slave anyway as it incorporates the thrust bearing which will be pretty well worn after 100k or so

Jc

[Olsey]

Thanks justinc!

My D90 has 46k kms on the clock, so replaced for good measure?

Is it best to replace the whole slave cylinder or just a section of it?

130161

[justinc]

Thanks justinc!

My D90 has 46k kms on the clock, so replaced for good measure?

Is it best to replace the whole slave cylinder or just a section of it?

130161
Tim 46k should be fine unless lots and lots of city driving/ clutch use i always replace regardless when I'm doing a clutch as it is such a big job to replace it....