ENV axle - shaft - driving flange/member how to ?

[Aagsja]

Dearest, sorry to bother you with problems. Any help is really appreciated.

I was out driving my One ton series 2A. First trip in years, so very exiting.

Suddenly the left rear wheel locked up. After a short stop I was able to drive on, without having done anything.

Into the garage, starting to dismantle the rear left axle. After some (a lot!) of back and forth I was able to get the whole thing of, including stub axle, hub and everything in between.

My plan was to get the driving member (driving flange) of, and then thread the hub out that way, but the driving member will not come of !
I have taken the circlip of.

The goal is new bearings, cleaning and inspection and see if that could be the reason for the wheel lock.

How do I get the driving member/flange of the axle ?

Any help, suggestion or advice is appreciated

130144

[JDNSW]

May be a problem getting advice here - the One Ton was never sold in Australia. But there are a few Series 2B with ENV axles I believe, so hopefully someone with knowledge on these will come along - "Lotz-a-landys" perhaps.

John

[123rover50]

The drive flange is basically the same as a Rover one. It just slips on to the splines.
You should be able to find a way to hold the flange either vertically in a press or horizontally using a 3 legged puller and apply pressure to the axle.
It should come off.
I dont have ENV,s on mine any more. Swapped them out for Salisbury. The weak point is the inner pinion bearing housing in the diff. I broke mine. Its very thin.

Keith

[justinc]

Did you say the wheel bearings were ok? Possibly the wheel bearing momentarily failed? Or a differential side gear? That could cause the axle to twist in the flange due to the sudden load while the vehicle was moving at speed.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

One way to remove the driving flange when it's tight is to get a length of pipe with the internal diameter close to but larger than the ENV spline, the pipe should be at longer than the total overall length of the axle and flange plus a little extra for packing.

Stuff one end of the pipe with a rag or something like bubble wrap (this is to protect the spline).

Hold the pipe with the stuffing end down, slip the axle halfshaft into the pipe so the flange rests on the end. Holding the pipe and axle vertically a few inches above a hard surface on the ground, hardwood is good, then drop the pipe to the ground making sure you catch it as it hits and repeat until the flange comes off.

You can also use the same pipe assembly, hold the pipe with the stuffed end on your hardwood block but drop the axle halfshaft into the pipe. In both methods it is the momentum and mass of the halfshaft assembly that are doing the work.

Remember High Tough axles in Qld can manufacture replacement ENV axles.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Did you say the wheel bearings were ok? Possibly the wheel bearing momentarily failed? Or a differential side gear? That could cause the axle to twist in the flange due to the sudden load while the vehicle was moving at speed.

ENV axles have splines at the diff end that have a larger diameter than the hole in the stub axle. The result is that you have to remove the stub axle from the diff/axle housing and pull out the halfshaft from the back of the stub axle. This requires the flange to be removed first.

[Aagsja]

Thank you, really appreciated.

Then I know it is supposed to come off, it is just a matter of violence and raw power.

[Aagsja]

Hi again,

Finally the parts came apart, but look at this hole in the hub. I suppose it is not supposed to be there.
What do you think, could this cause the lockup of the wheel ?

Everything else seems to be ok...

130337

130338

[JDNSW]

It seems one of the drive flange stud holes is a bit deep - or the inner bearing has spun in the hub and worn through to it. Either way, it cannot have caused the lockup, although if the bearing has spun in the hub, it will be because the bearing has locked, and this will have caused the lockup, either directly or because the wobble on the bearing applied the brake. I would carefully check that the hub bearing seat is not worn before reusing it - make sure that the bearing cup seats firmly and straight in the hub, or replace the hub.

[harry]

the hole is in all of them, it lets you drain the oil out of the hub, knowing which bolt to remove is the trick?
but there is a clue.

[Aagsja]

I got a car mechanic to look at the different parts i.e the hub, the bearings, the thing the bearings are running in (which I can not remember the English word for), and his opinion was that everything looked ok. He meant that the reason for the wheel locking up most likely was a brake problem. Anyone experienced it ?

[1950landy]

What are the brake linings like , do they have diff oil in them & are sticky , that could cause a brake to lock.

[Aagsja]

Break linings cleaned, and now I am trying to fit the new bearings.

Can anyone tell me the correct way around for the oil seal at the inner bearing. Is it the flat side outwards, as shown on the picture, and the side with the spring towards the bearing, or the other way ?

Thanks again

[Lotz-A-Landies]

The seal should be fitted the same way as your image. The spring on the bearing side of the seal.

N.B. : First you should check the ring that the seal runs on, if there are grooves, scratches or breakdowns in the outer surface these could cause the seal to leak. On an SIIa the ring is removable. It can be repaired with a "Speedy Sleeve" or replaced. You can also replace it with a Series III stub axle which are stronger but don't have the removable ring.

If you are using leather seals, you should soak the seal overnight in a container of oil before fitting. Leather seals are not recommended if the vehicle is not driven regularly as they dry out and leak from the top.

[Aagsja]

Seal mounted with help from a friend that has the correct tools for doing things like this. Not pretty but hopefully it is proper enough.

Another question, is this the only seal along the half shaft, or is it some O-ring in addition (at the back or inside the stub axle for instance) that prevents oil from the diff coming in to the hub/brakes ?

That is, is there a O-ring I am missing, before mounting? I am aware of the O-ring under the hub cap.

Thanks again. Appreciated.