View Full Version : New tractor tyres or just the tubes?
Gullible
30th September 2017, 07:44 PM
So one of my really old very cracked but not very warn tractor tyres has a puncture. The wheel has a built in weight which will make it too heavy for me to remove on my own.
The questions I have are:
1. do cracked sidewalls in tractor tyres increase the risk of punchers. If so by how much?
2. can I change just 1 tyre. This will give me slightly different diameters across the axel. Is this a bad thing to do with a tractor?
I'm looking at $400 to replace the tube and $1,500 to fit a new tyre. [bigsad]
My previous tractor had old tyres that were cracked with chunks braking away. They lasted over 7 years like that without a puncture.
V8Ian
30th September 2017, 07:48 PM
Patch both tyre and tube then carry on driver.
Hogarthde
30th September 2017, 08:45 PM
It is not necessary to remove wheel from tractor. Jack up the tractor ,and chock with substantial blocks,and proceed to bash the bead with a 14lb sledge hammer, followed by a
strong pinch bar.
Only pull off one side of tyre,push the valve through and pull out tube ,if old it may be rusted to wheel so use some vigour.
As Ian said ,patch tube and tyre. Make your own tyre patch using rubber belt or mudflap and several little coach bolts on the inside with nut sticking out ,and Robert is your father's brother.
Pressure about 12PSI
dave
trout1105
30th September 2017, 08:48 PM
If it is only a small leak a couple of litres of that green slime puncture repair may be enough to keep you going for a while.
It will cost you about $20 to try it, WAY cheaper than a &400 tube and you don't have to do Battle with that thumping big tyre [thumbsupbig]
If it doesn't work you will have only blown $20 [bigsad], If it does do the job then [bigrolf][bigrolf][bigrolf]
V8Ian
30th September 2017, 08:57 PM
As Dave said, don't take the wheel off. I've found the easiest way to break the bead, is to use wooden wedges, about 4" long, 2" high and wide.
350RRC
30th September 2017, 09:13 PM
Are you sure it has a puncture?
I've got a MF 165 with original tyres, wheel weights and water in the tyres.
One of the rears had a leak and I found that it was just the valve leaking.
DL
mick88
1st October 2017, 10:24 AM
If it is filled with water you will need to drain it first, as they hold upwards of 150-200 litres depending on the size and they are very heavy handle.
Cheers, Mick.
pop058
1st October 2017, 10:46 AM
As Dave said, don't take the wheel off. I've found the easiest way to break the bead, is to use wooden wedges, about 4" long, 2" high and wide.
I have a few of these I use for spreading steel framework. Might do the job.
Plastic Wedges - (http://www.stihl.com.au/STIHL-Products/Hand-Tools/Forestry-Tools/273784-1665/Plastic-Wedges.aspx)
130281
Gullible
1st October 2017, 01:13 PM
Are you sure it has a puncture?
I've got a MF 165 with original tyres, wheel weights and water in the tyres.
One of the rears had a leak and I found that it was just the valve leaking.
DL
Good point. I'll check out the valve first. At least I know I can do that on by myself.
I'm a bit nervous about jacking the wheel up and then hitting it with a sledge hammer. I guess I'm use to dealing with cars and push bikes, not tractors. [bighmmm]
The tyre is also full of water. I'll make sure I empty the water out first before I do anything else.
If my wheel has built in wheel weights, is there any advantage to having the tube filled with water? I only use my tractor for mulching and rear forks, why do I need extra weight in the tyres?
V8Ian
1st October 2017, 01:54 PM
With the valve at the 12 o'clock position, look for a wet mark. The water is to improve traction and will also be a counterweight when using the rear lift. Are you sure there is a tube in the tyre? Don't remove the water unless you have to, it's a PIA to replace.
Hogarthde
1st October 2017, 02:28 PM
G'day again ,what make and model of tractor, and tyre size.?
Dave
bee utey
1st October 2017, 05:13 PM
How fast is the leak? If you can get a good day's work out of it without trouble, just park it with a block under the axle and have a decent compressor on hand.
ian4002000
1st October 2017, 06:35 PM
What size tyres do you have ?
How much do you use the tractor ?
How many punctures have you been getting ?
I recently replaced an 18.4 x 34 tyre and tube for around $900 fitted. The fist quote I got was over $3000 a pair from a truck/tractor tyre specialist and then I went to my local tyrepower and they came up with a great deal.
You can check Ebay but I wanted some one to fit it.
I had been getting one flat each year for the last few years and eventually the tyres had to many stake holes in them so I had to buy new ones which is a shame when I don't use the tractor much.
Ian
Bittern
Gullible
1st October 2017, 07:13 PM
The tractor is an old Deutz Fahr 75 hp.
We use it twice a year for 2-4 weeks each time. The tyre was flat when we arrived this time and goes down over 4-5 hrs.
It is always stored in a shed and the last tractor we had for 7 yrs was only driven 100m down the road to the front paddock once, so our tyre wear is minimal.
The main issue for us is time. If we have to fix/repair/pump back up, each time we visit we loose valuable hours. I'd happily get a second hand one if it was quick and easy. But if we do not find a solution this time we will have to resolve it next time.
The other consideration is remoteness, if the tyre gives out while at the back of our block it would be difficult to drive it back to the shed and I've no-one local that could help me out.
It looks like I'll be giving the local outlets a ring on Tuesday. [bigsad]
Hogarthde
1st October 2017, 07:51 PM
For the work you do , not heavy drawbar work, the tractor doesn't need water in tyres , so screw out the valve,and get rid of it. All tyres.
If you're not keen on the big hammer and wedge ,borrow a big slide hammer or get a tyre fitter to do it. Patch the tube ,sleeve the tyre ,no point in spending too much on a machine that is only used in moderation. I do appreciate the nuisance of being away from the shed and stuck in paddock, but give it a go
dave
350RRC
2nd October 2017, 08:10 PM
I've got a Deutz as well, but it's quite new. The 165 was going flat.
Assuming the valve is at fault............................
As someone previously posted, jack up the flat side (i used a 4 ton bottle jack) when you get the valve in the 12 noon posi.
Unscrew the valve internal thing, just like a normal tyre. Water should not come out, or if so only a little and it will stop.
Screw in a new stainless one and see how you go.
I bought the 'special' one for a water filled tyre, had to buy the whole valve which made my eyes water and it leaked too after a couple of weeks.
Maybe a bit of grit or something.
Then repeated the process with a stainless / brass one, has been fine for a year now. Just a standard tyre one, will post the brand tomorrow.
Don't let the water out of all your tyres............... there is no reason to do so and could cause unexpected grief.
The water in my 165's tyres has probably been there since the 1970's like the tyres.
cheers, DL
Gullible
3rd October 2017, 07:31 AM
OK, I'll try the valve first. Then move on to the tube and finally the tyre if all else fails.
Does anyone know if you can use the green slime with water filled tyres? or is that a really bad idea...
350RRC
3rd October 2017, 07:40 AM
Funny you should mention slime......
That's the brand of the valve core! Got a pack of them from Repco from memory.
DL
mick88
3rd October 2017, 07:57 AM
Whilst tractor tyres are filled with water for better traction, increased weight and reduced tyre wear, I tried one of our tractors without water in the rear tyres and found it seemed to be too bouncy and gave my back a lot of grief. However it is one without a suspension seat.
Cheers, Mick.
350RRC
3rd October 2017, 08:08 AM
Sometimes I take the Deutz 5k's into town for fuel. Has no water in the tyres, 4wd... no need.
It is waaaay bouncier than the 165, have to keep the loader right up to minimise hobby horsing.
DL
Tote
5th October 2017, 08:43 PM
OK, I'll try the valve first. Then move on to the tube and finally the tyre if all else fails.
Does anyone know if you can use the green slime with water filled tyres? or is that a really bad idea...
I reckon it would be too diluted to work effectively
Edit, here's a solution, not in oz though
Hydro-Seal Tyre Sealant - Air-Seal Products Ltd (http://www.air-sealproducts.com/products/502/hydro-seal)
Edit again, therein a dealer in OZ
Air Seal Products, Preventative maintenance (https://www.airsealproductsaustralia.com.au/air-seal-hydro-seal)
Regards,
Tote
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