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VladTepes
9th October 2017, 10:34 AM
I want to repaint the rear cross member on the 130 prior to fitting my spare wheel carrier.

I also have a Hayman Reece towbar.

I presume I'd just clean it up with a wire wheel, but what would I then paint it with?

Ideally some sort of rust inhibitor and satin black.

Product suggestions etc welcomed !



(I have read elsewhere that plasticote paints are a good option for the topcoats - anyone used these?)

Also I've heard 'Kurust' is good? Any experience and is it readily available here? Kurust rust paint– Protect your metal - Hammerite (http://www.hammerite.com.au/product/kurust/)

rar110
9th October 2017, 07:48 PM
I’d just go with cold gal and epoxy enamel semi gloss. Give it a wipe with a wet rag, a dry rag, and light coat of spray wax about every mth or so and will last for years. You could do the same to the roof and the bonnet if you got really keen about the paint staying intact.

I neglected the paintwork on my 110 and paid the price. Much easier doing a very little maintenance occasionally.

dazzler
9th October 2017, 07:55 PM
I want to repaint the rear cross member on the 130 prior to fitting my spare wheel carrier.I also have a Hayman Reece towbar.I presume I'd just clean it up with a wire wheel, but what would I then paint it with?Ideally some sort of rust inhibitor and satin black.Product suggestions etc welcomed !(I have read elsewhere that plasticote paints are a good option for the topcoats - anyone used these?) Also I've heard 'Kurust' is good? Any experience and is it readily available here? Kurust rust paint– Protect your metal - Hammerite (http://www.hammerite.com.au/product/kurust/)I have just done this and the results are pretty good.I used septone etch primer followed by septone satin black, i used calliper paint for the tow barpd

VladTepes
9th October 2017, 09:14 PM
Why etch primer? That's usually just for ally and is more expensive than conventional primer for steel.

dazzler
10th October 2017, 08:16 PM
not expensive in the scheme of things($17), I always have a can handy for any work I do on the my new landy ally or otherwise.

dazzler
11th October 2017, 06:48 PM
not expensive in the scheme of things($17), I always have a can handy for any work I do on the my new landy ally or otherwise.
130751

Dirty3
16th October 2017, 08:26 PM
Good result Dazzler. Mines got a see-through rust look to it too, so i'll have to takle this task also.
But...being totally ignorant here, is the crossmember removable to paint? Or did you just paint over it in place? If rust is on the outer surface then its going to be elsewhere right?

dazzler
17th October 2017, 02:30 AM
Good result Dazzler. Mines got a see-through rust look to it too, so i'll have to takle this task also.
But...being totally ignorant here, is the crossmember removable to paint? Or did you just paint over it in place? If rust is on the outer surface then its going to be elsewhere right?


Easy job, I masked the surround with 3m tape and painted the crossmember in place. Any surface not exposed would still have chassis paint intact to be honest so wont worry too much. Now I sanded the fading paint, cleaned with some grease/glue remover, primed and painted with satin black from a paint can. Trick is to build up the paint :) .. make the surface tacky with light coat and build it up(do not spray too far from surface or else you have graining). Good luck and share pictures when done.
pd

Baytown
21st November 2022, 07:35 AM
Yep, an inevitable task for long term owners.
I need to do this on my Defender sooner than later.
LR Owner International magazine did a great article on this topic a little while, here it is:

181979181980181981

Tombie
21st November 2022, 08:36 AM
When I had the Wheel flares colour coded to the roof (Santorini) I had the rear crossmember done.

Looks great and prevents the inevitable rust patina forming [emoji41]