RRC 2.8L CRD Project

[Hendrik]

Hi All,

Thought I'd start a build thread for my new project, my RRC 2.8 CRD engine transplant from a 2016 Holden Colorado. I've always wanted a RRC, love the driving position, the look and how they perform on and off road. I spent 4 years restoring my Hillman Minx and completed a common rail diesel transplant on that vehicle, so after selling my tired D2 it was time for a new project to take up all my time on weekends.

I bought this 88 RRC from Melbourne in June this year. It has plenty of goodies on it already such as:
- 2in Terrafirma lift with cranked front and rear arms and front shock turrets
- Twin ARB Air Lockers converted to 24 spline
- Devon 4x4 front bar with high mount winch
- Arb rear bar
- Long Range Tank
- Fresh respray and black leather interior transplanted from a later RRC

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It also came with a 4.6L V8 running old school Motec, which was the first thing I stripped out and sold off. I do like the Rover V8's, but given their horrible fuel consumption for the power you get, on top of that the extortionate QLD rego for V8's, a diesel is a no brainer really. Question was which diesel, I drew up multiple spreadsheets to decide which one to go with: Basically I wanted 6 speed Auto, good power, torque and fuel economy.

4BD1 - Cheap and simple yes, and good torque, has been done on LR's before. But they are heavy and old...I will probably get smashed for saying this but, there.....I've said it [bigsmile1]

Ford P5AT 3.2L - Good power, torque and fuel economy. Expensive engine to buy.

VM Motori 2.8L (from Holden Colorado) - Same torque and power as 3.2L and 4 cyl so cheap QLD rego. This was the winning combination, so I was able to get a complete stat write off 6 speed auto Colorado RWD with 40k kms on the clock for $4.5K that has everything I need for the conversion. The RWD is suitable, as I can adapt the LT230 remotely.


First thing to do was to complete the strip of the RRC, including the dash as I intend to fit all the electrics from the Colorado including the heater box, controls and AV system. The plan would be to test fit everything, then remove it again and paint the chassis and under body.
I then stripped out the engine and gearbox combo out of the ute and lowered it in the RRC to do a test fit prior to adapting the LT230. The engine needs to sit more to the left hand side in the engine bay in order for the sump to clear the front diff and the massive LR steering box.

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First off the sump needed some changing. The sump is designed for an IFS vehicle and is quite wide, so a bit had to be trimmed off the side and new section welded in. Here's a pic of the leak testing with diesel and UV dye:

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Second task was to machine up a new input shaft. I decided to keep the output housing on the auto and make an adaptor shaft with a single universal with an adaptor frame to hold everything in line and also carry the auto. So I machined a taper into the transfer case input gear (fortunately it’s the old type without the spline lubrication holes). Here’s a photo of the new shaft and partly completed shaft in the lathe.

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A thread will be machined into the shaft and a nut will hold the shaft in the input gear with a key way.

Next will be to make up the adaptor frame, then lower the whole assembly into the car and make the engine mounts and transfer case mounts.

[loanrangie]

Sounds like a great combo, I am surprised that the Colorado has a VM motor. What happened to Isuzu ?

[bee utey]

Sadly Photobucket pictures don't work here any more. You'll have to find another way, e.g. use the forum uploader from your computer.

[Hendrik]

Fixed the photos :)

Yes they went to the 2.8L in 2014 after they dumped the 4JJ1.

[rar110]

Fantastic Hendrik. I look forward to reading updates.

[stirlsilver]

If I had my time again with doing my project, I would have gone the diesel route. The torque you can get along with fuel economy can't be beaten!

Looking forward to seeing your work! [bigsmile1]

[Hendrik]

Ok bit of an update.

Transfer case has been mated to the gearbox now and the engine and transmission including the LT230 are back in the car. I have used BA falcon hydraulic engine mounts and spaced the original transfer case mounts back from their original position. (will post up pics of the mounts tacked in place over the next few days.

Next was to position the radiator, intercooler, condensor and auto cooler. I went with 3 Row XD Falcon full alloy radiator and made some minor modifications in order to mount the unit to the chassis. Intercooler is a generic type with 3in in/outlets, while the condenser is out of the Colorado. I decided to go for the largest auto cooler that I could find, and managed to find one out of an RX7 that will fit up really well.
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131679


I have also fitted up the steering column to the rover steering box. The steering column and steering wheel is the Colorado one, as I'd like to retain the clock spring, ignition barrel and steering wheel feature buttons as these are a pain to convert to another steering wheel. Obviously this steering column is collapsible which is mandatory to get it through engineering.

I will also post up few more pics of the arrangement in the next few days after I've mounted the pedals.

[Hendrik]

Few more updates from recent work:

Radiator, Intercooler, condenser and auto cooler have now been fitted, including a 16in thermo fan.
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Next was to fit the steering column and the pedals, along with the brake booster from the Colorado.
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I plan on fitting the heater box next, then it will be onto all the fun stuff underneath the car such as the exhaust, fuel system and brake system.

[loanrangie]

Any updates on this ?

[Archangel007]

Big job mate, huge!!!

I like what you have done and the way you think.

And I wish you the very best of luck with it all.

Keep us updated.

Cheers,
Tricky

[Hendrik]

Thanks for the comments, yes it is a big job as when you modify one thing you find you have to modify three other things to still make things work. but it's all a good challenge.

I've recently seen a few photos of RRC rollovers and noticed that the junction point or node at the a-pillar and forward roof rail is particularly weak. I'm not fitting an internal cage as these are not easy to get through engineering so I'm planning to reinforce this area over the next few weeks by welding in reinforcing behind the a-pillar to connect into the b-pillar. Would love to hear some of your comments or recommendations on strengthening this area.
Will post up some progress pics on this.

Recent update:

I have started to build in the heater box, which will require the slight modification of the the dash. Also made a custom air filter box from aluminium to fit a Donaldson Powercore air filter, these are excellent in dusty conditions, while providing plenty of air flow as well. I will post up some more photos of the next few days.

[Archangel007]

Hendrik,

Can you post up some pics of the A-pillar junction so I know what I'm looking at??

Cheers,
Tricky

[Hendrik]

Ok here are some photos of the A-Pillar and front roof section that I will attempt to strengthen over the next few weeks:
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Also, here are some photos of my custom aluminium airbox that will house the Donaldson Powercore air filter. Plan is to run the aluminium intake pipe on along the RHS of the engine bay and run a RHS snorkel.
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Finally, I have also done a test fit of the colorado heater/air box to be fitted under the dash. The fan inside this thing is huge, so expecting much better heater and air con performance compared to the old RR system.
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So plenty to do over the Xmas break, I plan to finish the install of the heater/air box and also complete the A-pillar strengthening.

[Hendrik]

So it's been a while since my last post, I've had a number of other things on but still managed to get a bit done.

I've been focusing mainly on strengthening the a-pillars and roof frame, so off came the roof, which makes so much easier to work on. I then drilled out all the spot welds on the piece of sheet that closes the top hat section on the roof frame, so I can add some internal reinforcement. I drilled a rather large hole at the bottom of the A-pillar and then pushed a 20mm 4140 steel rod down the A-pillar, which I bent into shape to go all the way up to the b-pillar, while still allowing access for the roof screws.

Close up of the steel rod inside the A-pillar
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The steel rod transitions into a piece of angle which fits nicely inside the existing top hat section
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This was taken all the way to the D-pillar and a gusset formed to the back piece of the roof frame
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This was then painted and finished off with 1.2mm sheet spotwelded back into place
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Other side completed as well
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I have now removed the windscreen and the front upper section of the roof frame is also very weak. I intend to reinforce this with a piece of angle that will join back in with the A-pillars. I didn't really anticipate that I'd need to do this much to the body, but at least I get to use my new MIG welder!

[Hendrik]

Ok so been a while since I've posted up an update so here goes.

Finished off the roof frame strengthening by laminating the upper corner where the A-frame meets the roof frame. Also added a plate up top to close everything off nicely.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/947.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/25ji4px)[/url]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/948.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/25ji4px)


I noticed some cracking in the corners of the dash panel (the steel sheet that holds the whole dash together). So I decided to laminate this area to give it a bit more strength:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/949.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/H2ToUZ)

Following this work, I picked up the HVAC box work again by mounting it properly. I cut out the firewall section from the donour Colorado as the holes for the air con and coolant lines are all ready in the right place and suited to the box. I then cut out a section out of the RRC firewall to make it all fit. I also made up a new fresh air intake for the HVAC box, and relocated the blower fan so it sits up higher in the dash. This required a bit of poly welding using a heat gun.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/950.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/H2TvgX)

Now that the box was properly mounted, I could refit the factory RRC dash to make sure it all fits with the Colorado HVAC box. I still have to do a bit of stuffing around with the ducting to the demister and the vents, which is a super fiddly job.


Finally, I was also able to fit the Colorado auto gear selector. For this, I had to make a purpose built box, recessed into the tunnel as the Colorado selector would be way too high if just fitted to the top of the tunnel. I also had to make some minor modification to the auto selector cable bracket on the gearbox, to make sure that the cable angles are not too extreme. I made an inspection plate on the side of the tunnel to allow me to work on the auto cable more easily if required. The only problem now is, that due to the size of the auto shifter, there is no way I can fit a high/low/CDL shifter where it would normally go, so I'm considering using IP67 rated electric actuators bolted straight to the LT230, but I will do that when I have lifted the body off for easier access.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/951.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/26C4RmS)



With the auto shifter fitted, I now need to workout how to mount the Colorado HVAC controls without ruining the whole look of the dash so that will be this weekend's job. I also think it's time to clean up my work area a bit as well, as it's getting a bit hectic!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/952.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/26FJMq8)[url=https://flic.kr/p/25jiCjR]

[rangieman]

Loving this thread keep up the good work [thumbsupbig]

[Meccles]

Great work!

[trumpycam]

X3

[DoubleChevron]

I don't think your going to be able to use that dash switch panel. Those switches will all talk to the CAN bus ... you will need to install the body computer in order for the switches to work. I bet you can wire it as normal circuits that if you access the wiring directly to the fan motor.

seeya,
Shane L.

[Hendrik]

That won't be an issue at all. I have ripped out all the RRC wiring as I will be installing all the Colorado wiring, BCU etc so will just be plug and play. Sure will have to fit things like the Colorado window motors, wiper motor etc, but it's much easier to retro fit that instead of stuffing around with programming.

[Hendrik]

Right so I managed to get two weeks off work. I spent one week on a trip to Tokyo, Japan and even saw this mint RRC in the streets.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/280.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/27kEeVe)[/url]

The 2nd week I was able get some work done on the project. I started off by mounting the HVAC switches from the Colorado to work the HVAC box. Looks OK for now, there is plenty more leg room compared to the old RRC trim piece that held the switches. The ugly gap between the dash the switch panel will be filled and tidied with a strip that will hold various switches such as Hi-Lo, CDL, Lockers etc.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/281.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/27kEeVe)


I then moved onto the instrument cluster. I need to use the Colorado one for everything to work, but I wanted to keep the square look from the original RRC one. I was able to use the rectangular RRC binnacle that surrounds the original instrument cluster, and made up a backing plate (metal coloured with the blue protective tape in the photo below) in order to retrofit the Colorado one. Once the plate is cleaned up and painted black you will barely even know it is there. The original instrument cowl also fits the new set up, I just have to get a new one as mine has split open.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/282.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/26eSqob)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/283.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/HFxt9H)

Next job was retrofitting the Colorado wiper motor to the wiper system. This was pretty straight forward, as I was able to bolt on the new motor to the mounting plate, by drilling out the old mounting holes and making new ones. I made a protective disk which incorporates the lever arm to the wiper arms.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/284.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/HFxs3e)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/285.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/27kDG1T)

Most of the hard fiddly work has been completed around the dash area now, except for the ducting from the HVAC box to the vents which still needs to be finalised. I decided to move back to the engine back and tackle some relatively simple jobs. First was making a new battery tray for the main battery, now located near the firewall on the passenger side due to the layout of the engine loom. The second battery tray will be located on the front factory battery tray on the passenger side.

New Battery tray
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/286.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/24zVNzw)

Battery fitted, yes I did check that the bonnet clears the terminals. Only need to install a securing clamp to hold the battery in place.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/287.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/24zVS69)

I was also able to test fit the location of the fuse box and ECU, these will be fitted next weekend along with the coolant expansion tank, PAS tank and ABS modulator which will be located on the driver's side.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/288.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/24zVQtG)[url=https://flic.kr/p/25Y4qeD]

Can't wait to get back next weekend and continue on, things are really starting to come together now. Not long until I can pull the body off the chassis for painting of the chassis and underbody.

[SPROVER]

Great work. The classic look with a modern touch. [emoji106]

[Hendrik]

Didn't manage to get a whole lot done this weekend, was stuck fixing air con belt issues on my Minx, but still managed to get bit done on the Rangie regardless.

I made the fitting brackets for the fuse box and the ECU. Decided to go for a sturdy option for the ECU, as it is quite a delicate piece of equipment. Made it out of 1.6mm plate and rolled the edges over with the bead roller. Still needs a bit of panel beating but it holds the ECU quite nicely.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/405.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/24PufNm)[/url]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/406.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/24PufNm)

Next job is to mount the ABS modulator, which needs to sit close to the brake booster.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/407.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/26cuPiB)

I have also had a bit of rethink regarding the position of the 2nd battery. I was initially going to put it on the passenger side in the dedicated battery tray, but I think having two batteries (up to 60kg) on that side of the car might throw the weight distribution out a bit. So I have decided to move the airbox closer to the brake booster, and put the 2nd battery where the main battery used to be. This means I will have the other tray free for the windscreen washer reservoir and possibly an air compressor.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/408.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/26cuLkH)[url=https://flic.kr/p/Krjref]

Hope to post up some more updates next week.

[Meccles]

I’m jealous you just happen to have a bead roller sitting around[emoji106]

[Hendrik]

Got a little bit more done on the weekend, progress has been a little slow lately due to lack of time:

Fitted the ABS modulator and ran the brake line against the firewall for the LH front wheel.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/06/182.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/282GoX9)[/url]


Also made a bracket to hold the coolant and PAS reservoirs. I mounted these against the firewall to get it the coolant tank higher than the radiator.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/06/183.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/282GoX9)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/06/184.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Js8tqH)[url=https://flic.kr/p/Js8s8T]

Next job is to get the TIG welder out and weld up the aluminium piping for the turbo and intercooler.

[Hendrik]

So it has been a while since my last post, but I have actually achieved a lot on the project considering I have not had a lot of time off work in the last 3 months, so hear is the latest updates from the last 7 months:

I have made up the intake, turbo and intercooler piping using a generic kit from ebay. Had to make a few adjustments but it will work pretty well. Not sure about the red hoses yet, might replace them with black ones eventually:
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4869/46951357082_5326367fae_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2ewVYGA)

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4890/46089357725_2b205791c6_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2ddL1jH)

Next job was to make a custom fan cowling for the radiator from aluminium, including routing the coolant piping:
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4832/46089358085_d53e4fa8fe_c.jpg

Also bent the air con pipe from the evaporator back into the compressor. I used the colorado one in the photo below, but I will need to get one custom made to suit using the pad fitting for the evaporator.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2ewVYm5]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7848/46951355892_0d1dded293_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2ddL1qV)

Now that everything has been fitted to make the new drive train work, it is time for the most soul destroying part of the build: stripping everything for painting and to complete the chassis works.

[Hendrik]

Right so off came the body to reveal a dust covered chassis. As mentioned before, this is probably the worst part of the build as you are stripping more than building. Parts are laying around everywhere and it seems that you will spend an eternity finding all the parts again, cleaning them and working out where they all go.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7826/46089357485_dd48e3f081_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2ddL1fz)

So I started doing the exhaust using 3in stainless steel pipe, that will contain the cat converter and a hot dog type muffler.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4876/46089356915_16b5cc6103_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2ddL15K)

Next job was to install the Colorado in tank fuel pump into the LRA long range tank. I had to cut open a larger hole into the tank to make the pump fit and also had to lenghten the springs on the pump to allow for the pump to sit at the bottom of the tank. Finally a custom made retainer ring to hold the pump in place.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7800/46089356705_7a79a4220b_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2ddL128)

After fitting the fuel lines and fuel filter, the front and rear diffs were stripped out to reveal a bare chassis. I have since strengthened the chassis and it has been completely cleaned using a wire wheel.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4899/46089390675_0470a1e3e1_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2ddLb7P)

Next job is to paint the chassis, diffs, a-frame, trailing and radius arms. Then the reassembly can begin!

[Meccles]

Great work[emoji1303]

[86mud]

Awesome work Hendrik, keep up the good work.,...and the updates

[DoubleChevron]

This is amazing. I don't think I'd live long enough to ever finish such a big project!

[4runnernomore]

Hi Hendrik,

Any updates??

[Mercguy]

Hi Hendrik,

Any updates??


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OuP2dOxhELQ

[rar110]

I’ve just spent a couple of weeks driving a Holden Trailblazer. The VM diesel is a really nice torquey motor and matches well to the 6 speed GM auto. Also the motor looks simpler than expected without pipes going everywhere like you see on most modern motors.

This will be a very nice RRC when done.

[Hendrik]

I'm back and I've been busy!

I finished welding the chassis and then cleaned up the chassis surface in preparation for coating. I cleaned out about a million tonnes of dirt from the chassis, but after that, it cleaned up pretty well. I painted the chassis with two pack gloss black. The diffs and suspension components were also painted, and then I reassembled the chassis and diffs with new Superpro bushes.

https://live.staticflickr.com/7912/46089389915_10972f5233_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2ddLaTH)[/url]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48704559383_c1f7edc3a0_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2ddLaTH)


Now that the car's back on it's wheels (well, the chassis at least!) I proceeded with the Lt230 rebuild. The transfer case was stripped, cleaned, all bearings replaced and Ashcroft ATB center diff installed. With the transfer case still out, I retrofitted two electric actuators to actuate the CDL and Hi-low range. I decided to go down this route instead of the mechanical route as I have no room on my center console for a mechanical linkage. The actuators are IP65 rated and are mounted quite high, so hopefully they will work ok.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48704558548_afacd4e615_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hcRAEt)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48704889601_380f20d270_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hcRAq5)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48704554988_b1836f0b40_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hcThPT)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48704553728_900a079696_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hcRzmG)


I then installed the transfer case back onto the back of the auto. The engine could then go back in. After finishing the exhaust welding, I installed the exhaust, fuel tank, fuel lines and chassis wiring loom.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48705048282_cbb95350d1_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hcRyYY)


With the chassis finally ready for the body, I turned my attention to cleaning up the body. This was a terrible job, because you get covered in crap from head to toe! But I persisted and managed to clean up and paint the under body (shout out to my lovely girlfriend who got covered in crap and got soaking wet in the middle of winter whilst using the gurney on the underside of the body).
The forklift came in handy to reinstall the body, with new body rubbers and bolts.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48704900271_f3d67202d3_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hcU6ZL)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48704897491_03acc6159c_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hcTkZR)IMG_3991 (https://flic.kr/p/2hcTkaV)

Now the work continues, I have installed the body wiring loom from the Colorado. Next tasks will be to install sound deadner, connect the wiring loom, power up the electrical system and hopefully start it up!

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48704895301_5fc8997da4_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hcTjwa)[url=https://flic.kr/p/2hcTjwa]

[Meccles]

Awesome work well done! Love your workshop [emoji106]

[16PMark]

That's quite the exhaust!!!
Hope ya had the gloves on when you wrapped it. Been there done that, without gloves....[emoji45][emoji3064]
Awesome!
[emoji1783][emoji41]

[Mercguy]

How much easier is life when you have a hoist and a ton of room.[bigwhistle][bigrolf]

[rar110]

Great work!

[trumpycam]

Speech less!!!

[CU55TM Disco]

Just read this thread from start to finish, BIG project!

Going well tho by the looks, and keeping motivated which is good to see!!!

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

[86mud]

Great work Hendrik, great to see it coming together.

[workingonit]

Great thread Hendrik.

Interesting to see how you approached strengthening the roof frame. I'm guessing the 1.2mm cover plate replaced thinner original metal? The metal on my '84 RRC body all seems to be about 0.9mm or less (or totally absent[bigsad]).

Did you use a dedicated spot welder when installing the 1.2mm plate, or your MIG?

If with MIG I would be interested in your method, particularly out of position. In my rust removing efforts I would drill out the original spots in the top layer using a home ground point 4mm diameter, leaving the second layer underneath basically unscathed. Fabricate the new piece with 4mm holes.

I had trouble welding in new spots when I left the holes at 4mm. The MIG arc would short to the side of the hole instead of the centre of the second layer. This gave the weld a lopsided appearance as it burnt into the top layer, leaving a large part of the original hole still evident.

I ended up making holes 8mm diameter to better control arc direction.

I watched lots of youtube vids but none seemed to go into power settings.

After lots of frustration I thought stuff it and set my 22 year old MIG to full power (6th setting). Held the gas shield sheath right on the hole and let rip for about 2 seconds, expecting to burn a big hole. But no, the hole was fully filled with just the right penetration through the second layer. Destruction test of the practice piece had the first layer ripping around the weld. I thought you beaut, cracked the MIG spot weld secret. But out of position...good old gravity had other ideas.

Also liked you adaption of the transfercase to gearbox.

[Hendrik]

Good question. I did us a 1.2mm plate to replace the old thinner metal. I did use a spot welder which did make the job a bit easier but was a bit of a pain holding in in that position. I did also try to do the repair as you described and had some issues with burn through. My issue was drilling into the second layer, which made it even thinner as I didn't use a special bit normally used to drill out spot welds. But it came together in the end, and yeah out of position is a pain to get right.



Great thread Hendrik.

Interesting to see how you approached strengthening the roof frame. I'm guessing the 1.2mm cover plate replaced thinner original metal? The metal on my '84 RRC body all seems to be about 0.9mm or less (or totally absent[bigsad]).

Did you use a dedicated spot welder when installing the 1.2mm plate, or your MIG?

If with MIG I would be interested in your method, particularly out of position. In my rust removing efforts I would drill out the original spots in the top layer using a home ground point 4mm diameter, leaving the second layer underneath basically unscathed. Fabricate the new piece with 4mm holes.

I had trouble welding in new spots when I left the holes at 4mm. The MIG arc would short to the side of the hole instead of the centre of the second layer. This gave the weld a lopsided appearance as it burnt into the top layer, leaving a large part of the original hole still evident.

I ended up making holes 8mm diameter to better control arc direction.

I watched lots of youtube vids but none seemed to go into power settings.

After lots of frustration I thought stuff it and set my 22 year old MIG to full power (6th setting). Held the gas shield sheath right on the hole and let rip for about 2 seconds, expecting to burn a big hole. But no, the hole was fully filled with just the right penetration through the second layer. Destruction test of the practice piece had the first layer ripping around the weld. I thought you beaut, cracked the MIG spot weld secret. But out of position...good old gravity had other ideas.

Also liked you adaption of the transfercase to gearbox.

[workingonit]

... I didn't use a special bit normally used to drill out spot welds...

I bought a couple of spot drills of different designs. The best one consisted of a small centre point and two trepanning points at 180 degrees to each other on the perimeter. The webbing between the trepan points and centre point was shallow. In operation the trepanning points cut slightly ahead of the webbing. If successful the first layer is converted to shavings. The second layer has a mark from the centre point surrounded by a lightly scribed circle, but essentially intact. Sometimes the spot weld fails before the cutting is complete - you end up with a disk spinning under your drill tip and you wonder why you're making no drilling progress!

The store bought drill was cutting 6mm dia holes which I though was to big for the size of the spots (4mm) and would require more weld infill - in hind sight 6mm was probably too small. I decided to make my own spot weld drill out of an old 4mm twist drill.

Using a bench grinder flatten the drill tip, take it right off, flat. Your grinder needs to have good corners on the edge of the wheel for the next step. Gently push the grinding wheel corner off centre into the flat drill head, over one of the flutes, until you begin to develop a partial centre point and one trepang point. Change over to the other off centre side, over the other flute, to create the second trepang point and better define the centre point. Keep the webbing between points shallow and even as possible on both sides, in other words don't overdo the use of the grinding wheel corner by cutting too deeply.

[Hendrik]

Time for an update:

I have been spending most of my time focusing on the mechanicals to try to get the car to a point where it can be driven. Progress has slowed due to the COVID19 Pandemic restrictions as I haven't been able to get out to the farm to work on this, but here are a few photos of where I am currently up to.

Power steering hoses have been made and installed, this was relatively straight forward, as I cut the old rover pipes to the steering box and welded them to the Colorado stuff that connects to the pump and the reservoir. Also made up a cooling loop on the return line, which I ran on the inside of the front cross member.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49829016282_a541a5e77f_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iVdJwo)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49828701101_ff6d66b2c1_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iVc7Qe)

Next job was open and inspect the rear diff. I found that the copper airline on the ARB locker had been crushed and also found that the rear diff was infact a 4.11 ratio and not the 3.54 that I am going for. So I had to replace the crown wheel and pinion and buy a new seal and copper airline from ARB. I rerouted the airline to exit at the back of the housing to prevent it from being crushed between the housing and the crown wheel.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49828170243_f3d7152ce7_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iV9p2v)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49829015817_c57e71b718_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iVdJon)

Also replaced all the wheel bearings:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49828700571_bb109e1c32_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iVc7F6)

Connected up the modified propshafts:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49828700206_514cae192e_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iVc7yN)

Also had to modify my shiny exhaust as it was hitting the body, one of the issues with making the exhaust when the body is off the car!

Also ran the brake lines up to the Colorado booster and ABS module and started it up, put it in drive and was able to drive it around the shed. Makes a lot easier to get it on and off the hoist now.

I finished the AC lines between the evaporator, AC compressor and condensor, and also installed the wiper motor.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49828169413_4cc327773e_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iV9oMc)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49829015212_ef41a37a73_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iVdJcW)

Now to divert my attention back to the inside, there is a lot of custom ducting that needs to be made, including a new center console etc etc!

So stay tuned!

[86mud]

awesome to see! Are you using the colorado air con unit inside?

[Hendrik]

awesome to see! Are you using the colorado air con unit inside?

I am yes, including the switches etc. It works quite well, just have to make up some ducting under the dash as the air distribution is different to the RRC heater box.

[Loading...]

Awesome project mate, coming along really well!

[Mercguy]

That's a pretty decent amount of progress all things being considered.

Can't wait for the next instalment [biggrin][thumbsupbig]

[Hendrik]

Update time!

Finally got the shocks sorted, ended up going for Superior Engineering long travel shocks:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50627474261_2c434bea3a_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k8M3gg)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50627474191_09abc40757_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k8M3f4)

Spent weeks trying to get the center console sorted, as I struggled to find a good spot for the cup holders and still have enough legroom. Made a new one out of timber with the intent to cover it with vinyl or leather. The next step is to get some buttons for the range selection, CDL, lockers, winch etc which will be located in front of the auto selector.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50627570962_2a12f3b174_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k8Mx1w)

I then diverted my attention back to the bodywork. The bonnet had this terrible Nissan bonnet scoop which I was not a fan of at all, so it had to go and the hole was welded closed. I have so far applied some filler and high build paint, ready for topcoat.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50626723198_2dd4f021f9_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k8HbZU)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50627570792_119f26daf3_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k8MwXA)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50627570462_04ebbe23e0_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k8MwRU)


I also removed the rear 3/4 panels as one had a badly repaired dent and the other needed a hole welded closed for the old LPG filler which will no longer be required. While I was there, I rolled a bead where the panel had previously been cut to fit the flares. This is to strengthen the panel in this area, and the flare will then be refitted.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50627473446_32a1e27cef_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k8M32d)


I then tidied up and resprayed the roof frame, then test fitted the snorkel. The scuttle panel also had to have the LHS snorkel hole repaired as the snorkel will now be fitted to the RHS.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50627473606_2c23e0a90b_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k8M34Y)

That's it for now, over the coming weeks I hope to finish the bodywork by applying the topcoat to the bonnet, scuttle panel, and rear 3/4 panels. Lots of work to go, but making progress.

[86mud]

Great to see some progress. Awesome stuff!

[4runnernomore]

Thread dig,

updates https://www.aulro.com/afvb/blob:https://www.aulro.com/b2c56378-a43f-4fc3-ba04-abb5787f0e03https://www.aulro.com/afvb/blob:https://www.aulro.com/ad7c071a-fc78-4a6e-8e62-e2be6e4e745e

cheers

[rangieman]

Thread dig,

updates https://www.aulro.com/afvb/blob:https://www.aulro.com/b2c56378-a43f-4fc3-ba04-abb5787f0e03https://www.aulro.com/afvb/blob:https://www.aulro.com/ad7c071a-fc78-4a6e-8e62-e2be6e4e745e

cheers
2nd That[wink11]

[4runnernomore]

Annual bump https://www.aulro.com/afvb/blob:https://www.aulro.com/e2d8ad78-c5d6-4ad4-bb16-ff484173fdfb

[Hendrik]

Wow can't believe it has been over a year since my last update. There has been some progress, I will get my photos together and post an update soon.

[4runnernomore]

Does anyone know if Hendrik was able to finish this project?. Was really looking forward
to reading about the rest of the build and see the finished result. Cheers Chris

[Hendrik]

All,
I finally found some free time to do a long awaited update on the progress, so stand by for some long posts!

After repainting the roof and the front and rear quarter panels, it was time to install them. This was relatively straight forward.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52071958071_1883b80e64_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2nkqoYx)[/url]
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52071959286_71a5536609_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2nkqoYx)

It was then time to tackle the rusty tailgate. The bottom rail on these are notorious for corroding through, and I had to drill out the bolts to be able to disassemble the tailgate. Rather than spend the money on an aluminium one, I thought I'd save some money and had a go at salvaging my original tail gate by fabricating a new lower rail from mild steel.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52072181314_f196d42b63_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2nkqpku)

Checking the assembly before painting, fits quite well.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52071962426_4a03032285_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2nkrxky)

Final result came up pretty good. It is much heavier now which I am hoping will help keep it closed. Might need some heavier duty gas struts that I will flip to help keep the tail gate closed. Will see how it goes once I fit the tail gate.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52071963463_962e403fde_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2nkqqgC)[url=https://flic.kr/p/2nkqqzv]

[Hendrik]

I then moved onto the wiring. Given that I completely stripped the old wiring from the car, it was my intent to use the Colorado wiring harness and just do local terminations for the lights, power window motors, door lock actuators etc. This proved to be relatively straight forward, and I added some additional relays for the headlights and got them working, as well as the tail lights, relatively easily.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52070911282_d7b5c65c60_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2nkk2Ns)[/url]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52071962608_8160613130_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2nkk2Ns)

The next task was the most involved. Given that the Colorado donor was a 2wd vehicle, I kept the L230 transfer case, as per my previous posts. Given the size of the Colorado auto shifter, I had no room left on the center console for a hi-low-CDL lever, so I went down the path of using waterproof electric linear actuators. With the two actuators already installed on the transfer case, I now had to wire them up to switches on the dash through a series of relays. I ended up going with switches from Billet Automotive Switches which look great and I was able to get them custom etched to indicate their intended purpose.

The joys of wiring!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52071960543_229a41fa4a_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2nkqqjL)

Switches installed on the dash:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52070908427_45999a8995_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2nkqpHa)

Switch backlights connected to the headlight circuit
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52072185864_d9fa27b7f2_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2nkk1Xe)


New Junction box in the engine bay to power the actuators and other offroad equipment. This is separate from the Colorado loom so will have no influence on other functions.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52071958711_6bb48aed9d_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2nkryG1)

Managed to keep the wiring mostly neat, lots of work went into this and it took a long time. I ended up installing limit switches connected to LED lights to indicate when the actuators read their ends and when high, low or CDL are engaged.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52070911417_26f37ed93f_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2nkqpaz)

The next job was to get the electric seats to move. I ditched the old switches in favour of more heavy-duty switches that can be directly wired via an overload switch. The other job was to find a home for the electric window switches. Here I decided to stick with the Colorado switches as they are much better quality than the old Rover ones, and it means I could use the Colorado loom. The issue was the switch pack was too large to fit in the center console or the drivers doorcard, so I decided to mount the switch pack to the drivers seat, which meant that the loom had to be removed from the door and extended to reach under the seat, lucky I was getting good at joining wires by this stage!

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52072433655_15c1c73d3e_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2nkk2QM)

Passenger side seat switches, I still need to install the front passenger window switch. Also, these look quite ugly at the moment, but it is my intent to cover everything in vinyl that matches the new leather seats.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52070906897_246e85b6fd_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2nksQmg)[url=https://flic.kr/p/2nkk1uR]

[Hendrik]

Other jobs done:

New vinyl on the D-pillars
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52072434460_56088c0ffa_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2nksQA9)[/url]

Cleaning up the old hoodlining board, I managed to track one down in reasonable condition
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52071962993_8ef40d4002_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2nksQA9)

Then started covering the dash in vinyl. I am very fortunate that my partner is a gun at sewing! Here's the dash with foam applied:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52072183289_6523d83739_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2nkqqrp)

Cardboard template made:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52070907387_b1df864c8f_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2nkrxVB)

Sewing the vinyl cover together:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52071963481_e7bb119086_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2nkk1Di)

Vinyl cover glued:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52072182729_15276693b5_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2nkqqzP)[url=https://flic.kr/p/2nkrxKX]

[rar110]

Great update thanks.

[4runnernomore]

Great update thanks.


took me a while to dig this one up.

anyone know if Hendrik ended up finishing this project ?.

[Don 130]

Perhaps you could try to PM him?
Don.