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Finnius
15th October 2017, 10:30 PM
Hey folks,
I am hoping someone can advise if my viscous fan pulley bearing that is in the front case of the 300tdi is too worn or not.
Here is a video of it:


https://youtu.be/ycVJ0blmR20

It has an ever so small amount of play in it. This was tested when the engine was cold – perhaps it would be different when hot?
I understand that the bearing is pain/expensive to replace and just need to know if this one is too worn and do they often fail and the pulley just drops off?! [bighmmm]

Thanks

incisor
15th October 2017, 10:42 PM
is it at all noisy or harsh when you spin it by hand?

Finnius
15th October 2017, 11:01 PM
It spins quite freely by itself when i spin it.
I honestly don't know if the noise is normalish or not. If someone who has heard the bearing on another 300Tdi bearing could listen to the noise in the video perhaps they could tell if it is normal or not...

bee utey
15th October 2017, 11:09 PM
The bearing is pretty stuffed, a good bearing makes almost no noise at all. Changing a bearing is neither terribly expensive nor terribly hard but you will need a press and some tool skills. Here is how I did it a little while ago:

I changed a 300 TDi fan bearing (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/209572-i-changed-300-tdi-fan-bearing.html)

Morry948
16th October 2017, 11:25 AM
Its got play, so change it

Finnius
16th October 2017, 11:44 AM
Rightio thanks guys.

I have searched around the forum but cant seem to find any pics of a homemade crank pulley holder. Anyone made one with a simple design?
I think the pre-made professional tool is expensive.

I guess i will just find some of my spare some flat bar and drill some holes in it etc...

Thanks

bee utey
16th October 2017, 11:52 AM
If it's an auto, lock the crank by removing the starter motor and inserting a 3/8" drive socket and bar into the small recess behind it, to grab one of the torque converter bolts. In a manual 4th gear high range and hand brake on.

Finnius
16th October 2017, 01:05 PM
Sounds like a plan.
The thread is not reverse on the crank pulley bolt is it?

jboot51
16th October 2017, 06:13 PM
Sounds like a plan.
The thread is not reverse on the crank pulley bolt is it?

Right hand thread.

hodgo
16th October 2017, 08:33 PM
Over the past years I have changed many bearing like the situation you speak of using an offset vice, bolts. sockets and specially cut bits of timber where needed with great success. I would recommend any young bloke starting out today doing there own repairs to own an off set vice with a little imagination its surprising what you can do

Finnius
16th October 2017, 10:14 PM
Years ago to do the rear a-frame suspension ball joint on a Disco, i specially bought a bearing press and it has earned it's moneys worth since!

Finnius
17th October 2017, 06:23 PM
If it's an auto, lock the crank by removing the starter motor and inserting a 3/8" drive socket and bar into the small recess behind it, to grab one of the torque converter bolts. In a manual 4th gear high range and hand brake on.

Hi bee utey,
This is a pic of the back of my timing cover:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/451.jpg

Do i need to press out the steel ring from the alloy (part of the bearing) - or is the steel ring in the pic part of the timing cover?
Also, what is under the grey plastic cover. I tried prying it off but it is well and truly stuck on.

Thanks

bee utey
17th October 2017, 08:22 PM
The metal ring is the outer case of the bearing which you apply the press force to. The plastic cover isn't meant to be removed. A propane torch may be used to warm the alloy housing if the bearing is stubborn.

Finnius
17th October 2017, 08:30 PM
Yup, I got the bearing out. It sure is buggered!
The tricky part is supporting the alloy case properly when you press it out.
I used my plasma cutter to cut some flat bar to shape, as well as using metal pipe fittings etc so the alloy was super supported with minimal risk of breaking.
Thanks bee utey.