86" 2.0l water pump

[cjc_td5]

The water pump on my 2.0l has a noisy bearing. What are my options? Replacement or refit kit? Any traps with different quality units or better suppliers?

Thanks,
Chris

[klonk]

Hi Chris,
Be carefull of new water pumps they don't fit very well and leak around the "o" ring at the top. I rebuilt mine using a 5/8 water pump bearing and seal from the bearing shop. But it requires lathe work to machine parts.
Craddocks list the correct parts.

Cheers Steve

[1950landy]

Imrebuilt mine the 1st time same as Klonk 30 years ago & had to fit a new pump about 10 yeas ago because I broke the impeller trying to get it apart. The new pump hit on the timing chain cover & required a lot of grinding to modify the pump the bottom of the pump to clear, I also had to go up 1/2 a drill size on the holes to get the bolt holes to line up with the threads. I have never had a prolem with the bypass O ring leaking as I put a little smear of silicon on the seal when assembling . If you use too much & block the hole it will cause the loss of a lot of watef when the thermostat opens . The sudden flow is too great for the 4lbs radiator cap lets the water out the over flow.

[cjc_td5]

Thanks guys. I had heard of issues with some new pumps hence the question. Looks like I should remove the existing pump and see what condition the casing and impeller is in. If good I might get away with a new bearing and seal only.
Thanks.

[1950landy]

It is difficult to get the impeller off with out braking it. I bought my pump from a company some were near Newcastle . Speaking to other S1 owners some have had problems & others have not. I think it may depend on were you buy it. May be the ones from companies like Craddocks ect ( I say Craddocks because that is who I buy my parts from O/S ) will be OK. I needed mine in a hurry so bought local . When I contacted the seller he stated that no one had ever complained but when I spoke to others who had bought locally they all said they had a problem.
On buying a bearing ,you will need to machine it & you will not be able to buy the correct seal in Australia . The seal you buy from the bearing Co will need to be fitted with silicon to seal them in the pump body. Also if the pump body is alloy there is a good chance it will need replacing & if it is cast steel it should be OK.

GOOD LUCK

[russellrovers]

The water pump on my 2.0l has a noisy bearing. What are my options? Replacement or refit kit? Any traps with different quality units or better suppliers?

Thanks,
Chrisi have a rebuilt one here

[cjc_td5]

Well what a complete ***** that job is!

I removed one wing and the radiator and support panel to get myself some good access to the water pump. The workshop manual said to remove the thermostat and thermostat housing. That is where my day turned to custard. Of the four bolts that hold on the housing, one came out and three sheared off at the bolt heads. Copious amounts of wedging and penetrating oil the housing is not even looking like releasing... I get say 0.5mm of clearance between the housing and the head so that appears to have released. I assume the bolts themselves are locked solid in the housing.

Tomorrow I might have to try drilling out the bolts in the housing but leaving a stud into the head that I can get leverage onto to wind them out of the head. I don't like my chances with such long bolts and also the steel bolts being harder than the surrounding aluminium.

Any magic ideas?

Cheers,
Chris

[russellrovers]

Well what a complete ***** that job is!

I removed one wing and the radiator and support panel to get myself some good access to the water pump. The workshop manual said to remove the thermostat and thermostat housing. That is where my day turned to custard. Of the four bolts that hold on the housing, one came out and three sheared off at the bolt heads. Copious amounts of wedging and penetrating oil the housing is not even looking like releasing... I get say 0.5mm of clearance between the housing and the head so that appears to have released. I assume the bolts themselves are locked solid in the housing.

Tomorrow I might have to try drilling out the bolts in the housing but leaving a stud into the head that I can get leverage onto to wind them out of the head. I don't like my chances with such long bolts and also the steel bolts being harder than the surrounding aluminium.

Any magic ideas?

Cheers,
Chrishi ted the problem is the aluminium oxedises round the bolts in my box of goodies i have the spares for you sorry the rebuilt water pump has been sold jim

[1950landy]

If you have a 5mm gap between the housing & head you should be able to cut the bolts with a hack saw blade. Once the housing is off you should be able to drive the bolts out with a pin punch , then drill out & tap the thread of what is left in the head You will probely find the housing will have a hole corroded through the back that should not be there that will need welding up or replacing with a cast steel / iron one.
When undoing the water pump bolts the heads usually brake off becaust some of the bolts go through into the water jacket . Give them a good spray with WD40 then give the head of the bolts a hit with a small Ball Peen hammer to loosen the threads then spray them again . Once the bolts start to move work them back & forward to brake the crusty rust in the thread that is in the water jacket. You will need some BSF taps & dies to clean up all the threads once you get it all apart. If you have not got access to them , I bought mine off Ebay for around $49 & $5 postage from some were in WA I think. When you reassemble make sure you give all the bolts a good Never Seize.
Once again GOOD LUCK this is the problem working with 50 year old vehicles.

[klonk]

"Chazza" in Narragin makes new thermostat housings.

Be carefull, it starts with a small job at the front and finishes when the engine, gearbox and diffs are put back in [bigwhistle]

Cheers Steve

[russellrovers]

Well what a complete ***** that job is!

I removed one wing and the radiator and support panel to get myself some good access to the water pump. The workshop manual said to remove the thermostat and thermostat housing. That is where my day turned to custard. Of the four bolts that hold on the housing, one came out and three sheared off at the bolt heads. Copious amounts of wedging and penetrating oil the housing is not even looking like releasing... I get say 0.5mm of clearance between the housing and the head so that appears to have released. I assume the bolts themselves are locked solid in the housing.

Tomorrow I might have to try drilling out the bolts in the housing but leaving a stud into the head that I can get leverage onto to wind them out of the head. I don't like my chances with such long bolts and also the steel bolts being harder than the surrounding aluminium.

Any magic ideas?

Cheers,
Chrishi the housing i have also cast iron one jim