wheels for a 95 130

[incisor]

I must be getting old and stupid

spent several hours looking for info on the best tubeless rims to get for a 1995 130 and now I'm more confused then ever..

I was just going to put disco rims on then I read somewhere something about the offset not being good for a 130 ?

just want something to suit 235/85x16 that is the right load rating and the right offset etc

what the best wheels to get?

[roverrescue]

OEM D1 steelies will likely rub 235/85s on the rear spring mount
But they are correct load rating and great candidates to change Offset and gal dip

You can buy 16x6.5 tubeless steel rims of appropriate load rating for defenders a few different designs often lumped together as "wolf" rims
16 inch Aftermarket Steel Wheels - Paddock Spares (http://www.paddockspares.com/land-rover-wheels-and-tyres/steel-wheels/16-inch-aftermarket-steel-wheels.html)

But I can guarentee that running tubeless on the OEM 16x6.5 tubed rims won't make your 130 swerve off the road into a busload of haemophiliac nuns carrying babies.... in the past I have run as low as 12psi on the above setup withnow dramas and best of all no tube punctures

And of course
If you want top of the pops buy a set of Zu rims!
Zu Alloys for Land Rover Defender - Paddock Spares (http://www.paddockspares.com/land-rover-wheels-and-tyres/zu-alloys/defender.html)

This is all

Steve

[mrb505]

I like the wolf rims on my 130 the offset is about right and tubeless as well 131262

[incisor]

But I can guarentee that running tubeless on the OEM 16x6.5 tubed rims won't make your 130 swerve off the road into a busload of haemophiliac nuns carrying babies.... in the past I have run as low as 12psi on the above setup withnow dramas and best of all no tube punctures


The beast has 15” alloys and well worn 31x10 rubber at present which is why i am looking around

[pop058]

IF factory Disco steelies will do the job, I have a set (5) with OK 117's .

[dromader driver]

There was a thread around about the white sunraysia rims driven by the mining industry. They have now gone to round holes as the triangular ones were cracking out of the corners. Think this is the link Light vehicle rim cracking - Department of Natural Resources and Mines (https://www.dnrm.qld.gov.au/mining/safety-and-health/alerts-bulletins-search1/alerts-bulletins/mines-safety/light-vehicle-rim-cracking)

[The ho har's]

The pics that Harry sent you of our 130 are Dynamic brand, cheep too.

Mrs hh

[incisor]

The pics that Harry sent you of our 130 are Dynamic brand, cheep too.

Mrs hh

do you know what offset at all?

[The ho har's]

do you know what offset at all?

Unsure. All we wanted were tubeless standard wheels for a Defender to take the weight. We run skinny tyres.
Mrs hh

[Ranga]

I think mine are Kings or Dynamics, and I think 0 offset. I'll have a look in the morning. From memory, ~$90 each.

[mox]

OEM D1 steelies will likely rub 235/85s on the rear spring mount
But they are correct load rating and great candidates to change Offset and gal dip

You can buy 16x6.5 tubeless steel rims of appropriate load rating for defenders a few different designs often lumped together as "wolf" rims
16 inch Aftermarket Steel Wheels - Paddock Spares (http://www.paddockspares.com/land-rover-wheels-and-tyres/steel-wheels/16-inch-aftermarket-steel-wheels.html)

But I can guarentee that running tubeless on the OEM 16x6.5 tubed rims won't make your 130 swerve off the road into a busload of haemophiliac nuns carrying babies.... in the past I have run as low as 12psi on the above setup withnow dramas and best of all no tube punctures

And of course
If you want top of the pops buy a set of Zu rims!
Zu Alloys for Land Rover Defender - Paddock Spares (http://www.paddockspares.com/land-rover-wheels-and-tyres/zu-alloys/defender.html)

This is all

Steve

Among the collection of "Wolf" rims I have, of which a dozen have been galvanised by Furphys at Shepparton are five tubeless ones which look as they were made in the same factory as "genuine" ones except do not have a Land Rover part number stamped on them. Apparently they were originally imported into Western Australia from an aftermarket supplier. Possibly Paddock Spares.

Incisor especially could note what I have found, with a '97 Defender 130, 1961 Series 2 LWB and a dead '94 V8 Disco 1 around. Have put a set Wolfs with good 7.50 XZL's on S2. Would never want standard 5.5 inch 272309's back on again. Wolfs as well as being 6.5 inches wide and seeming to suit these tyres better than original rims have their offset with the inside of the rim sitting out about an inch further out from the chassis. Steering stops on swivel housings are normally set to limit turning lock to just before tyre rubs on chassis. With Wolf rims, can screw them right back. Lock is then limited by maximum travel in steering box, which seems about as far as it advisable to go anyway.

Original wheels from Series 2, fitted with worn cross ply tyres with tubes in them are now on dead Disco to keep it a rolling chassis. At least they do not go flat 'when they feel like it - largely by leaking around the bead as older tubeless tyres often did. I note that the inside offset on the Disco rims is about the same as the Series rims. About equally useless re turning lock if used on Counties and Defenders. The extra 1.5 inches extra width is all on the outside.

[BadCo.]

I don't see Disco steelies being a problem. I have ANR4583 130 rims but my spare is a Disco Steel rim. The spare has been fitted for the last few months now and I haven't noticed any rubbing on the spring perch.

Tires are 255/85, so wider then you require.

[rick130]

Disco 7" steelies are 33mm offset
130 6.5" HD rims are 20.6mm offset

Trust me, with the turning circle of a 130 you will want the 130/Wolf rims, unless you get the centres of the Disco rims cut and rewelded.
The rims that are on my old 130 atm are 0mm offset and help the turning circle dramatically.

As Steve said, tube rims run tubeless aren't an issue, that's how most of us ran them for a long gtime and I've never rolled a tyre off the bead running tubeless.
The only time I've rolled a tyre off the rim was back around 2002 when I was running tubes. ;)

[87County]

Standard D1 steel rims are fine (& tubeless) (& cheap) :)

[martnH]

Disco 7" steelies are 33mm offset
130 6.5" HD rims are 20.6mm offset

Trust me, with the turning circle of a 130 you will want the 130/Wolf rims, unless you get the centres of the Disco rims cut and rewelded.
The rims that are on my old 130 atm are 0mm offset and help the turning circle dramatically.

As Steve said, tube rims run tubeless aren't an issue, that's how most of us ran them for a long gtime and I've never rolled a tyre off the bead running tubeless.
The only time I've rolled a tyre off the rim was back around 2002 when I was running tubes. ;)
I am just wondering....Do you need the tube when running tube rims with tubeless rubber?
Cheers

[rick130]

I am just wondering....Do you need the tube when running tube rims with tubeless rubber?
Cheers

I'm loathe to suggest it can be done as it's technically illegal, there is no safety bead, but IMO it's perfectly safe to do with the 130HD rims.
Standard 110 5.5" rims are a different kettle of fish.

The bead is really wide on the 130 rim, and there are several problems running tubes.
1. tubes tend to weld themselves to the tyre due to heat running at highway speeds
2. tubeless tyres tend to rub through the tubes anyway as they aren't smooth on the inside

[lebanon]

I have been running DI steel rims with 235/85/16 on my 110 with no issues at all even when off-roading. Just notice a change in the turning circle that is still very acceptable.

131648

[Tote]

You know you want to.....

DA2436 | Zu Alloy Wheel 16X7 Gloss Black - Land Rover Part DA2436 (https://www.lrdirect.com/DA2436-Zu-Wheel-16X7-Black-Gloss/?keep_https=yes)

$210 each ex VAT plus $60 or so freight.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/11/6.jpg

Regards,
Tote

[Colmoore]

You know you want to.....

DA2436 | Zu Alloy Wheel 16X7 Gloss Black - Land Rover Part DA2436 (https://www.lrdirect.com/DA2436-Zu-Wheel-16X7-Black-Gloss/?keep_https=yes)

$210 each ex VAT plus $60 or so freight.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/11/6.jpg

Regards,
Tote

They look a bit breakable but they sure are snazzy

[incisor]

anyone using the king black terra 16x7 5@165.1PCD 0 offset?

131811

[VladTepes]

Mine are Kings or Dynamics too.
Be careful as there are many similar rims (same brand, same size but some have fake beadlock 'nipple' thingies etc.
I just got the plain ones.
Might be something in my thread about them.. not sure.
Got mine via MR Auto at the time was actually cheaper than other places.

[4wheeler]

They look a bit breakable but they sure are snazzy

The Zu alloys are 1400 kg rated, 11mm offset and TUV approved. I have then on my Defender and they have all markings required and are solid as a rock. I might be wrong but I suspect I will break the car before breaking the rim. They are not cheap but are top class. I figure that if I ever sell them, I will get most of my money back at sale time.

4Wheeler

[incisor]

Got mine via MR Auto at the time was actually cheaper than other places.

didn't want to sell me some :p

i have found white kings 16x7 0 offset locally for about $105ea

but i want to see what the disco rims with 235/85x16 on behave like to start with.

[pop058]

didn't want to sell me some :p

i have found white kings 16x7 0 offset locally for about $105ea

but i want to see what the disco rims with 235/85x16 on behave like to start with.

need some ??

[incisor]

Not at the moment but time will the tale

[numpty]

I'm probably wrong, but the usual speak is that Disco rims are not strong enough for the 130. Don't ask me why as they look beefy enough to me.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

What are the two GVM's?
3500 for the 130?

[numpty]

What are the two GVM's?
3500 for the 130?

Yes, 3500kg for the 130.

[Mark130]

Hello All,
I need new tyres, I'm ready to go tubeless, and I'm happy to buy new wheels for peace of mind
I have a 2002 130 with the 6.5 (tube only) rims.

I currently have 235/85/R16 and have been looking at old threads to see if I should go wider, or increase rolling diameter.
Haven't seen a compelling argument so staying at same size (still happy to hear a compelling case)

I've looked around at all the local steel wheels and spoke to Dynamic and Infinity. Haven't really looked at paddocks.

I see Inc decided on Infinity 16x7 0 offset, and I thought I was happy to follow suit.

I thought I'd support my local tyre power, so I asked them to confirm everything before we booked it in

They rang around all the wheel mobs
and told me zero offset would stick out of the guards (Infinity has zero offset)
so I'd need to go Dynamic that had a +20 offset, and that would be perfect.
They also said offset doesn't affect turning circle

My understanding of offset was obviously back the front.
I thought the more positive the offset the further out the guard, but sounds like more negative the offset the further out it sticks
Is that correct?

And can someone tell me the relationship between offset, and affecting turning circle please.
Others seem to prefer 0 zero, so I'm guessing there must be a good reason

Thankyou

Cheers Mark

[rover-56]

I'm probably wrong, but the usual speak is that Disco rims are not strong enough for the 130. Don't ask me why as they look beefy enough to me.

Well, I measured some a while ago - std 130 6.5" rims vs Disco 7" rims.
Wheel centre metal thickness same, rim metal thickness same, all welded.
Unless there is secret mens business with the steel spec, they are the same load rating.
Terry

[incisor]

And can someone tell me the relationship between offset, and affecting turning circle please.
Others seem to prefer 0 zero, so I'm guessing there must be a good reason

Thankyou

Cheers Mark

0 offset rim puts the tyre further away from the center of the vehicle than the std offset rim, therefore it adds stability and allows you better turning circle for obvious reasons.

0 offset is as far as you can go legally in a 110 or 130 by all accounts.

i have 0 offset 7" rims on my 130 running 235/85 tyres.

[Mark130]

Thankyou. Sounds like the only way off-set affects turning circle then is when the tyres/wheels hit something and prevent full lock. Good to know that's all there is to it.
I like the idea of a slightly wider stance giving better stability. I'd be interested to hear how noticeable the difference is. Being a narrow wheel base it could be quite noticeable.

Only problem right now is I have the tyre shop telling me +20 will be a perfect fit, and zero will overhang the guards and won't fit.

Sounds like the consensus here is that zero is preferred, and +20 might foul.

I can go with their recommendation and tell them if there's any fouling they can pull them off and return them.
Or I can tell them zero, and I might be asking about replacing my flares quick smart.

Decisions, decisions...

[Tombie]

It’s quite Simple Mark...

Put a flat edge up the tyre to the guard...
Then measure to the lip of the flare accounting for thickness of straight edge.

If it’s under 20mm it will protrude [emoji6]

[BadCo.]

Answers in red.


Hello All,
I need new tyres, I'm ready to go tubeless, and I'm happy to buy new wheels for peace of mind
I have a 2002 130 with the 6.5 (tube only) rims.

I currently have 235/85/R16 and have been looking at old threads to see if I should go wider, or increase rolling diameter.
Haven't seen a compelling argument so staying at same size (still happy to hear a compelling case)
255/85R16 would be an obvious upgrade. Slightly wider and slightly taller, a lot of people use them including myself. They give more ground clearance, more track, better road handling but probably increased fuel consumption.

I've looked around at all the local steel wheels and spoke to Dynamic and Infinity. Haven't really looked at paddocks.
I've looked at shipping wheels but the cost is prohibitive.

I see Inc decided on Infinity 16x7 0 offset, and I thought I was happy to follow suit.

I thought I'd support my local tyre power, so I asked them to confirm everything before we booked it in

They rang around all the wheel mobs
and told me zero offset would stick out of the guards (Infinity has zero offset)
so I'd need to go Dynamic that had a +20 offset, and that would be perfect.
They also said offset doesn't affect turning circle
From what I have seen with other people, zero offset and 255s will sit flush. I'm not sure if that is 16*8 or 16*7 though. I have 255's on HD Rims (16*6.5 +20.6) and they are inside the flares by a little bit.

My understanding of offset was obviously back the front.
I thought the more positive the offset the further out the guard, but sounds like more negative the offset the further out it sticks
Is that correct?
Negative offset moves wheels out, positive offset moves wheels in.

And can someone tell me the relationship between offset, and affecting turning circle please.
Others seem to prefer 0 zero, so I'm guessing there must be a good reason
If you have a
If you have a more negative offset, that is, your wheels have moved further out, then you have the opportunity to adjust your steering stops as the tires are further away from the parts they would rub on. This will give you a better turning circle.

Thankyou

Cheers Mark

Here are some figures for you

16*6.5 +20.6 = 4.56" backspace (Yours and mine current size, no rubbing with 235 and 255 tires)
16*7 +0 = 4" backspace (no rubbing with 235 and 255 tires)
16*8 +0 = 4.5" backspace (no rubbing with 235 and 255 tires)
16*7 +33 = 5.3" backspace (eg disco rims, these will rub my spring perches with 255's)
16*7 +20 = 4.79" backspace (potentially might rub spring perches with 255's?)

On a side note, I have thrashed my HD Rims offroad and they have been awesome. I bought some aftermarket rims and dented one the first time I took them out :(

[uninformed]

Wheel Repairs Melbourne (https://www.easternwheelworks.com.au/range-rover-wheels.htm)

[incisor]

played the 255/85 game and they are too big if you tow anything weighing more than 750kg IMHO

255/85 on a 7" rim they are just okay, on a 6.5' rim, no thanks.

235/85 on a 0 offset 7" rim are just inside the flares on my vehicle, on a steel discovery wheel they were inside but you lose turning circle and they rub on the arms, or did on my 110.

hence why i went with what i did as i pull a 1 tonne van with the 130.

[Vern]

I don't think it's the 255/85 that is too big, its the 300tdi thats too small[emoji6]

[incisor]

I don't think it's the 255/85 that is too big, its the 300tdi thats too small[emoji6]

had them on a 4bd1t and a 300tdi and they sucked on both of them, at different speeds tho it has to be said.

the 300tdi wouldnt pull the camper out of my driveway in 1st high and the 4bd1 would but thats about where the differences ended ...

i actually preferred the 300tdi which is why i went with one this time over a perentie.

to each his own......

[Mark130]

Thanks Guys. I'm a lot more knowledgeable than I was 24 hours ago.

I do like the 255/85/R16 and I don't tow, and I'm hoping eventually that will be my size of choice.
I wore out my original Michelin's at 43k. Then moved to Brissie, fitted Cooper ST's and have only done 10ks in ten years. The Coopers are cracked from old age and I've just replaced all the tubes because they fell apart; just to buy me some time.
So I don't deserve to upsize atm. No expensive tyres until I can prove I can use them as they were intended.

I still like the zero offset option, and if the 255/85 fits on the 7'' rim even better for next time.

Tombie I only have 15mm from the tyre to the edge of the flare. 40mm from the edge of the rim to the flare. Maybe my flares have dropped a little...compared to Inc's.

I'll have another chat with them on Monday.
I might even get some new 235/85 tyres and keep my original rims and tubes for now. Bit of a cop out but will buy me some time to clock up more klms, and check up the flare situation.
Thanks again for all the assistance
Cheers Mark

[rick130]

2nd low for starting off towing with 255/85's and a Tdi.

All other ratios are really nice on road IMO and if you fit a Maxi Drive low range for off road you're[smilebigeye]

My old 130 tared at 3000kg for the most part and I loved the 255/85's, but I do realise there's extra drag when towing, I towed horses a few times with the 130 and it was always a low range start.

[incisor]

2nd low for starting off towing with 255/85's and a Tdi.

All other ratios are really nice on road IMO and if you fit a Maxi Drive low range for off road you're[smilebigeye]

My old 130 tared at 3000kg for the most part and I loved the 255/85's, but I do realise there's extra drag when towing, I towed horses a few times with the 130 and it was always a low range start.

yeah, thats what i used to do, 2nd low and get it rolling then change to high.

i found the 300tdi 110 loaded or pulling a trailer on 255/85's to be like the 4bd1t with an lt85 fitted, i was always seemed to be hunting for the right gear. on the county. i fixed it by fitting an lt95 and it was perfect, for me.

fix for the 300tdi, staying on 235/85's it seems, oh well.

[DazzaTD5]

I have been running Discovery 1 steel wheels on my dads Defender 130 for years, considering the weight of it, the loads we have put on it and towed with it, there has never been an issue.

In another post recently I asked if anyone was running tubeless tyres on the Defender 130 "tubed" wheels, which supposedly dont have the extra bead.
I see there are quite a few that do it and as already mentioned I remember back in the series land Rover days, we all ran "fancy" modern tubeless tyres on our old series wheels without an issue.

[alan48]

Hi,
I run BFG KO2 aize 265/75/R16 on my 130 Crew cab as they are almost identical in circumference and revs /km so can still use my 235/85/R16 as spares until I need to buy some more. They are on 7inch Peformance alloys and fit nicely in the guards, just and of course are wider than the original tyres.
Maybe an option to consider.
Alan[smilebigeye]

[Mark130]

Thanks Dazza, Yes I've also seen a few posts of people going tubeless on the tubed rims. I'm going to be conservative and stay away from that one, but good to know if I ever get stuck.

Thanks Alan. The 265/75/R16 seems to be the other preferred tyre choice of many.
I think I'm going to sit on the fence a bit longer on this one and wait for a sign.

I was reading a post in members rides a while ago and the post said that changing from skinnies to 265/85 was the most rewarding improvement he'd made, ahead of a remap I think. I need to dig that out again, and ask him what he meant. It sounded like a big call.

Cheers
Mark

[86mud]

I can vouch for the difference in the ride from the standard wolf rims with 235 wide tyres to an offset rim and wider tyres. The ride and handling improved dramatically. It just feels nicer to drive.

On my 1998 130 300Tdi, I'm running dynamic 16 x 8 and a zero offset wheels with Mickey Thompson MTZ in a 285/75. I had 70,000km from the previous set and I only recently replaced them as they were starting to crack with age.

The dynamic wheels sit out about 25mm further then the standard wolf rims.

I still have the standard landrover flares on the front guards and I fitted some flexible garden edging to the rear tub. I have had this set up for over 5 years. The tyres sit flush with flares.

I don't tow a caravan (and never plan on it) but I do tow either a dirt bike trailer or an offroad box trailer a lot. I have tweaked the 300TDi fuel pump, bigger intercooler and piping plus straight through exhasut (no mufflers) and I get 105hp at the wheels with over 500NM of torque. Am happy with that on the 285/75 tyres

Cheers

[Tote]

And another vote for the wider tyres. I ordered my 130 with MTRs on wolf rims and swapped to Zu rims and Hankook Muddies. Made a remarkable difference in ride and off road ability, more than I would have thought. I went 265/75-16 as the Zu wheel is only a 7"rim and is +11mm offset

137792

Regards,
Tote

[uninformed]

I must be the odd one out. I took my 285/75R16 off after 3k and sold them. Too floaty and vague. 235/85 felt much better to me. I would like to try 255/85 though for the height.

[BlackD90]

IS ANYONE SELLING THERE 130???

[SSmith]

I must be the odd one out. I took my 285/75R16 off after 3k and sold them. Too floaty and vague. 235/85 felt much better to me. I would like to try 255/85 though for the height.Nope, I agree.

Put the 285/75's from my D1 on a friends Defender and we both hated it!

255's float a tiny bit, but quite bearable for the height and footprint gain.

[SSmith]

IS ANYONE SELLING THERE 130???Not a chance [emoji14]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/03/359.jpg




There is a couple on carsales

[uninformed]

..... I have tweaked the 300TDi fuel pump, bigger intercooler and piping plus straight through exhasut (no mufflers) and I get 105hp at the wheels with over 500NM of torque. Am happy with that on the 285/75 tyres

Cheers

Thats a huge gain! Thats about a 65% increase in power over stock

[rick130]

Thanks Dazza, Yes I've also seen a few posts of people going tubeless on the tubed rims. I'm going to be conservative and stay away from that one, but good to know if I ever get stuck.

Cheers
Mark

Ran my old 130 tubeless on tube type rims for fifteen years, as have quite a few of the fellas on here without issue.

The bead is really wide, and look at it this way, what is holding the tyre on the rim if you puncture a tube??
I've rolled a tyre clean off the rim having had a puncture at 100km/h through a corner.
After that incident I started running tubeless on the recommendation of my old tyre service and never looked back.
Ran the 255/85's at 25/26 psi on gravel chucking the old girl around like a rally car and never rolled a tyre off a rim.

[mrb505]

Problem is most tyre places won’t fit tubeless tyres to tubed rims without a tube
Wolf tubeless rims are reasonably priced, the factory offset for a 130, solid and easy to get
Land Rover Perentie/Defender200/300/TD5/Puma Wolf Heavy Duty Steel Rim GENUINE (https://www.landybitz.com.au/land-rover-series-perentie-defender200-300-td5-pum)

[86mud]

What brand of 285 tyres were "floaty"?

I run the my 285 MTZ's at 38 psi on the highway and go as low as 12 psi and never had a floaty feel.

[Mark130]

Problem is most tyre places won’t fit tubeless tyres to tubed rims without a tube
Wolf tubeless rims are reasonably priced, the factory offset for a 130, solid and easy to get
Land Rover Perentie/Defender200/300/TD5/Puma Wolf Heavy Duty Steel Rim GENUINE (https://www.landybitz.com.au/land-rover-series-perentie-defender200-300-td5-pum)
Nice tip MRB, thankyou. they are reasonably priced.
If I was sensible I'd order them now
These widey advocates have been making some progress on me though
The tyre mob rang me today and I pretty much committed to 7" zero offset and they were going to order in 235 and 265 and we were going to put them on and have a look.
If I get those wheels I should be able to fit 235, 255, 265 so that's versatile.
We'll see how that pans out. They didn't have an account with Infinity so I'm curious to see what they do.
Cheers
Mark

[uninformed]

What brand of 285 tyres were "floaty"?

I run the my 285 MTZ's at 38 psi on the highway and go as low as 12 psi and never had a floaty feel.

Goodyear Wrangler MTR Kevlars

[strangy]

Goodyear Wrangler MTR Kevlars

Im running same size in Toyo Open Country MT. My wheels are 8 inch and -5 offset
Essentially same pressures as you.(37 psi on road)
For me they are a good size and no float either.

[SSmith]

What brand of 285 tyres were "floaty"?

Maxxis All Terrains. Dont remember exact model

[rick130]

Interesting, Slunnie reckoned his 285/75's feel much nicer/less vague on road than some 255/85's he tried in his D2, but I still love the 255's on the Deefer.

[uninformed]

Id say wheel width plays a roll in how these tyres feel. But at the end of the day 285 is a lot wider than what the designers engineered these vehicles around.

[Tombie]

Interesting, Slunnie reckoned his 285/75's feel much nicer/less vague on road than some 255/85's he tried in his D2, but I still love the 255's on the Deefer.

Slunnies 285s are on 8” rims.

[Mark130]

Hello All,
I'd purchased a set of 16x7" zero offset King steel rims before Easter through my tyre retailer, but when we went to fit we realised they had approx. 10mm oversize hub hole size.
So we placed fitting on hold until I bought some Nugget hub rings.
I just spoke to Wayne and looks like his dynamic hub rings don't suit the King wheels

and then I noticed King Wheels also sell hub rims.
When I rang them up they told me
a) they didn't have hub rims for a Landrover
b) their hub rims are only for alloy wheels and for the benefit of tyre fitters - just to locate the wheels when fitting
c) the oversize hub doesn't matter at all. The wheel nuts take all the load, and the hub to hub hole size is only cosmetic..
I asked him if I broke a wheel stud, and he said I'd still have four left.
d) To top it off he said the reason the holes had been made oversize was to enable the use of centre caps.

Maybe I'm old fashioned but I do like the idea of a nice snug hub fit.
I just thought I'd put it out there and see what you all think
I can either live with it...
or ask if I can return the King wheels
and buy 16x8 dynamics (no zero offset in 16x7)
or maybe look at a 16x7 steel wheel from paddocks..

Cheers
Mark

[BadCo.]

c) the oversize hub doesn't matter at all. The wheel nuts take all the load, and the hub to hub hole size is only cosmetic..


This.

Actually the real problem with aftermarket rims is the bevel angle on the nuts being different to LR ones.

[Mark130]

This.

Actually the real problem with aftermarket rims is the bevel angle on the nuts being different to LR ones.

Thanks BadCo,
Yes I already discovered that one. LR wheels have a 45 degree taper where as seems all new after market have a 60 degree taper. That's another $70 to the bill.

[Vern]

Dynamic rims are the same, i have them and have run them for about 15 years with no issues, with tyres ranging from 33" to 36". Never flogged out, never had a nut come loose.

[86mud]

I agree with Vern

My Defender 130 has been running 16 x 8 Dynamic Steel Rims with 285/75 Mickey Thompson MTZ's tyres for over 9 years (obviously not the same set of tyres!). I have never had an issue with wheel nuts coming loose (standard Defender wheel nuts) or broken studs or balancing issues. I always do the wheel nuts up and undo by hand.

I dented a rim Outside Birdsville last year. The rim was massaged with an FBH and I am still using this wheel on the truck today. Damn good rims and no need for any add on's to keep them true.

[BadCo.]

Thanks BadCo,
Yes I already discovered that one. LR wheels have a 45 degree taper where as seems all new after market have a 60 degree taper. That's another $70 to the bill.Hey Mark, where did you get the wheel nuts from? I can't find any locally.

[martnH]

I have two sets alloy and wof rims. I have been using the alloy

Just wondering, so with the steel rims, the taper stud holes center the rim, right?
Should one tighten up the wheel stufs with load or with car jacked

Cheers

[Mark130]

Hey Mark, where did you get the wheel nuts from? I can't find any locally.

The tyre mob ordered them from Dynamic (wheels) - only available in sets of five I think.

They rang Dynamic again today and they were told the same story that King told me. They were also a bit concerned and told me they'd never seen a gap as big as 10mm before.

So
I've decided to take my chances and go for it.

I'm booked in tomorrow so will let you know how it turns out, and how those nuts look.

Cheers
Mark

[Mark130]

I have two sets alloy and wof rims. I have been using the alloy

Just wondering, so with the steel rims, the taper stud holes center the rim, right?
Should one tighten up the wheel stufs with load or with car jacked

Cheers

yes that's what I've always thought, and I've always put a bit of tension on with vehicle jacked.
I'd imagine if you didn't do that you'd be asking for trouble.
I thought all wheel nuts had some sort of taper. I haven't played with a alloy wheel in so long I can't remember

Cheers
Mark

[martnH]

yes that's what I've always thought, and I've always put a bit of tension on with vehicle jacked.
I'd imagine if you didn't do that you'd be asking for trouble.
I thought all wheel nuts had some sort of taper. I haven't played with a alloy wheel in so long I can't remember

Cheers
MarkHi Mark,
There is no taper stud holes on alloy land rover rims...Flat contact surface.

Comparing the two sets, to my untrained eyes, it seem the alloy is more precision machined and the steel rims is a bit "whatever as long as they are there"...

Cheers

[TOR]

I have Dynamic 16x7 +20's on my 130 with 235 85's. The 0 offset for increased turning circle probably seems the go though. Regarding the 60 degree tapered wheel nuts that you need for the aftermarket steel rims, where are people getting them from? The only ones I could get are those long chrome ones which i'm not a massive fan of. I'd much prefer a factory steel type nut with the correct taper if anyone has any leads?

[Mark130]

I have Dynamic 16x7 +20's on my 130 with 235 85's. The 0 offset for increased turning circle probably seems the go though. Regarding the 60 degree tapered wheel nuts that you need for the aftermarket steel rims, where are people getting them from? The only ones I could get are those long chrome ones which i'm not a massive fan of. I'd much prefer a factory steel type nut with the correct taper if anyone has any leads?
I've been holding off posting till I took a photo, but I ended up getting 20 wheel nuts from 'Dynamic' for $70
They are 16x1.5mm 22mm Hex 45mm long black x 20
Looks to be the only 16mm nuts that Dynamic sell.
They are black, and don't look bad, but they are long. My first impression was 'why so long. I didn't want long.'
I'll try to get a photo tomorrow, but I suspect there's a better option out there.
Cheers
Mark

P.S. I asked the tyre mob what they torqued the wheel nuts up to
and they checked their computer program before they checked the tension wrench.
Computer told them 130, where as tension wrench was set at 110.

I don't know how much difference that'd make but I suspect there aren't many 16mm wheel studs going around, and the wrench lives on 110 for the 14/15mm studs and they obviously don't automatically think to adjust.
Great news tyre mobs are finishing with a tension wrench, but just thought I'd mention that.

[weeds]

I have Dynamic 16x7 +20's on my 130 with 235 85's. The 0 offset for increased turning circle probably seems the go though. Regarding the 60 degree tapered wheel nuts that you need for the aftermarket steel rims, where are people getting them from? The only ones I could get are those long chrome ones which i'm not a massive fan of. I'd much prefer a factory steel type nut with the correct taper if anyone has any leads?

With the taper being tighter there’s not much chance getting a nut that looked anything like the OEM nut.

You could have the taper adjusted in your rim to suit the OEM nut. Pretty sure I’ve seen a post about it.

[BadCo.]

I've been holding off posting till I took a photo, but I ended up getting 20 wheel nuts from 'Dynamic' for $70
They are 16x1.5mm 22mm Hex 45mm long black x 20
Looks to be the only 16mm nuts that Dynamic sell.
They are black, and don't look bad, but they are long. My first impression was 'why so long. I didn't want long.'
I'll try to get a photo tomorrow, but I suspect there's a better option out there.
Cheers
Mark

P.S. I asked the tyre mob what they torqued the wheel nuts up to
and they checked their computer program before they checked the tension wrench.
Computer told them 130, where as tension wrench was set at 110.

I don't know how much difference that'd make but I suspect there aren't many 16mm wheel studs going around, and the wrench lives on 110 for the 14/15mm studs and they obviously don't automatically think to adjust.
Great news tyre mobs are finishing with a tension wrench, but just thought I'd mention that.

Have you got a part number on your invoice? Nothing on the website as you describe.

[incisor]

a couple of overzealous tightenings and the angles would match anyway, one way or another.

never had an issues myself i have to say.

[86mud]

You don't need aftermarket wheel nuts for Dynamic wheels. I have been running the standard landrover defender wheel nuts for 9 years with Dynamic wheels without a problem. The wheel nut taper matches these wheels.

Any other wheel brands (Kings etc) may be different and I can not make any comment on these.

PS..It is always best to torque wheels nuts by hand. I use the heavy duty wheel brace with a piece of pipe as an extension.

[Mark130]

Have you got a part number on your invoice? Nothing on the website as you describe.


Yes the Dynamic part number is DN161522BL-20 (20 is probably quantity)
139480

Caps, nuts and hub rings (http://dynamictyres.com.au/wheel-accessories/caps-nuts-and-hub-rings)
Hope the link works. I couldn't find it from the Dynamic website either . Had to Google 'dynamic wheel nuts' to find it, and I'm not sure it's accurate, only that is only shows 1 16mm option

I'm not sure about the other Learned comments
When I rang Dynamic about wheels, they were ones who told me I'd need new wheel nuts.
and the tyre fitters called me over to show me that the standard nuts wouldn't fit (the King wheels) and I was surprised they looked like it wasn't even close to fitting.
It was a dark workshop, and I was a couple of metres away. I wish I'd gone in for a close inspection now.
I'll rip a wheel nut off and have another look when I get a chance. I crunched my shoulder a few days ago so might take me a couple more days before the curiosity wins out.

Cheers
Mark

[BadCo.]

Yes the Dynamic part number is DN161522BL-20 (20 is probably quantity)
139480

Caps, nuts and hub rings (http://dynamictyres.com.au/wheel-accessories/caps-nuts-and-hub-rings)
Hope the link works. I couldn't find it from the Dynamic website either . Had to Google 'dynamic wheel nuts' to find it, and I'm not sure it's accurate, only that is only shows 1 16mm option

I'm not sure about the other Learned comments
When I rang Dynamic about wheels, they were ones who told me I'd need new wheel nuts.
and the tyre fitters called me over to show me that the standard nuts wouldn't fit (the King wheels) and I was surprised they looked like it wasn't even close to fitting.
It was a dark workshop, and I was a couple of metres away. I wish I'd gone in for a close inspection now.
I'll rip a wheel nut off and have another look when I get a chance. I crunched my shoulder a few days ago so might take me a couple more days before the curiosity wins out.

Cheers
Mark

Awesome, thanks for that. They don't look too bad either!

The difference in the taper is obvious upclose, people who aren't using the correct wheel nuts will notice the taper in the hole in the rim will get damaged.