hidden winch on D3/4 with standard bumper and NO roo-bar

[BrianElloy]

hi guys

not sure if you have seen this vendor in Italy (!) who make some innovative gear for the D3's and D4's

what got my attention in particular was this hidden winch-installation behind the stock bumper.

check it out http://www.mudtech4x4.com/it/piastra-verricello-nascosto/ and don't forget to use the google-translation for the page!

keen to hear what you all think

Brian

[Stiltz]

There is a mechanic in Sydney that does this too and it is very clean. I saw his and I am tempted. Not sure what he is called here but he is from Cremorne Prestige

[Crofty]

Following, In Sydney and after a discreet winch [emoji106]

[l00kin4]

There have been a couple of threads on this. I really like the idea too but couldn't quite get past the nebulous ADR compliance status.

Discreet winch by devon4x4 fitted in Melbourne (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/170949-discreet-winch-devon4x4-fitted-melbourne-5.html)

Discreet Mount Winch - Sydney (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/235726-discreet-mount-winch-sydney.html)

There is a local supplier of this too: http://www.sydney4x4accessories.com/land-rover/746-land-rover-winch-mount-d4.html

David

[Tombie]

Just be wary... if it has any impact on the SRS system a hit could trigger the bags when otherwise they wouldn’t.

Just be sure!

Bull bars have to replicate the correct crash pulse to be compliant in Australia. And therefore will trigger under the correct conditions.

[dirvine]

I have recently purchased a discreet winch bar from UK. I will be fitting it sometime in Nov/Dec. I have no issues, cares or concerns about any mods I do to cars. If they are illegal and I get found out I will deal with them. If not (as has happened with my last vehicle), then I will happily motor along, in the knowledge that I have the equipment attached/onboard that will get me out of the trouble I may lead myself into.

[l00kin4]

I have recently purchased a discreet winch bar from UK. I will be fitting it sometime in Nov/Dec. I have no issues, cares or concerns about any mods I do to cars. If they are illegal and I get found out I will deal with them. If not (as has happened with my last vehicle), then I will happily motor along, in the knowledge that I have the equipment attached/onboard that will get me out of the trouble I may lead myself into.

Looking forward to your report on this installation.

David

[Tombie]

I have recently purchased a discreet winch bar from UK. I will be fitting it sometime in Nov/Dec. I have no issues, cares or concerns about any mods I do to cars. If they are illegal and I get found out I will deal with them. If not (as has happened with my last vehicle), then I will happily motor along, in the knowledge that I have the equipment attached/onboard that will get me out of the trouble I may lead myself into.

No issue there at all... it’s up to you...

The equipment onboard may however get you into trouble if it causes inappropriate vehicle behaviour..

Do you not have any concerns that a small impact may result in your airbags triggering inappropriately?
Considering the injury to you and yours this can cause (they go off with the power of an Army Mortar).

Or the consideration that an incorrect trigger will likely write the vehicle off economically?

Many companies now download the SRS telemetry post accident, and this may prove detrimental.

Just things to consider..

[dirvine]

Thanks for your convcerns Tombie. I am unsure if the Devon one is non approved or not, but it has been fitted to a number of vehicles overseas, and there have not been any issues reported. Specifically designed for a D4 I am sure they know their stuff. So I am hopefull all will be OK. Whilst I acknowledge that there could/maybe issues with standard componetry of the D4, if I was as concerned as some people are about safety etc, then I would probably think twice about even getting behind the wheel of a car let along take one one the road in Australia. So I will take my chances like everybody else. If something happens I always have my "B" vehicle for a back up!! or is it my "A" vehicle?

[wombathole]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/644.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/645.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/646.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/647.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/648.jpg

I bought and installed a hidden winch mount myself.
- Removed plastic bumper.
- removed metal front bumper. 8 bolts on the front of the chassis rails.
- installed winch mount box using the same 8 holes.
- installed winch into the box.
- cut a hole in the plastic bumper and re installed.
- stick 20mm legs on number plate plastic frame and screwed it back on.

In normal mode, can hardly see the winch.
When required, remove 4 screws. Looking into some quarter turn quick connects.

No modifications to any sensors or electronic parts.

[Aussie Jeepster]

That looks brilliant!

[Tombie]

Very clean looking set up that’s for certain.

[l00kin4]

I bought and installed a hidden winch mount myself.
- Removed plastic bumper.
- removed metal front bumper. 8 bolts on the front of the chassis rails.
- installed winch mount box using the same 8 holes.
- installed winch into the box.
- cut a hole in the plastic bumper and re installed.
- stick 20mm legs on number plate plastic frame and screwed it back on.

In normal mode, can hardly see the winch.
When required, remove 4 screws. Looking into some quarter turn quick connects.

No modifications to any sensors or electronic parts.

Looks great. Which mount did you install wombathole?

[wombathole]

DA7537 | Discreet Winch Mount - Land Rover Part DA7537 (https://www.lrdirect.com/DA7537-Discreet-Winch-Mount/?keep_https=yes)

I paid $405. 301 plus 104 shipping.

12000lb domin8r winch. $350.

$265 for the Ultra hook. Beautiful piece of bling.

[LRD414]

You make it sound easy! Was there anything tricky about bumper change over etc? How many hours start to finish? Also, what is so good about that hook? I’m genuinely interested to understand why it’s expensive.

Scott

[Arapiles]

I bought and installed a hidden winch mount myself.
- Removed plastic bumper.
- removed metal front bumper. 8 bolts on the front of the chassis rails.
- installed winch mount box using the same 8 holes.
- installed winch into the box.
- cut a hole in the plastic bumper and re installed.
- stick 20mm legs on number plate plastic frame and screwed it back on.
In normal mode, can hardly see the winch.
When required, remove 4 screws. Looking into some quarter turn quick connects.
No modifications to any sensors or electronic parts.

That looks really good, very nice.

[wombathole]

You make it sound easy! Was there anything tricky about bumper change over etc? How many hours start to finish? Also, what is so good about that hook? I’m genuinely interested to understand why it’s expensive.

Scott

Hi Scott,

It was straight forward except the chassis bolts. I took my time and probably spent 10 enjoyable hours doing it right and making it really neat.

Grill, lights and bumper removal is easy after you learn the technique off YouTube. (like so many things on our vehicles)

Removal of metal bumper was simple.

Winch box was meant to line up with holes and supplied bolts were meant to use same thread. No. Had to buy long high tensile nuts and bolts. Fiddly to get bolts started and then tight. Limited space. Needed four hands.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/654.jpg

Domin8r winch came with pre done wiring which fitted perfectly. I mounted controller where the horns live. Relocated the horns to the side of the grill. Winch has wireless controller which lives in glove box and twist style isolator switch next to battery connection. So for most of the time winch is mechanically isolated from power, when needed, twist connector and turn on wireless. Opposite process when finished.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/655.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/656.jpg

Pure luck that the format factor of the winch clutch handle is small enough to fit. About 10mm cleanance. Enough to easily spin the clutch with your finger tips. Bigger clutch handles may have significant issues.

I went very slow cutting the plastic hole. Lots of small cuts, test fits, small cuts, test fits. I wanted the least cut away but enough to ensure it won't jam.

Easy raid of the home watering system spare parts to get a rigid pvc pipe that I cut to form the number plate legs. Super glued to plate frame.

I wanted a hook or ring that pulled right against fairlead so wouldn't rattle, wouldn't show any rope, and be smallest protrusion. Ultra hook are awesome. Something like 32000 lb strength, look cool and tapered rubber blocks that hold it in place.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/657.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171025/d811014187c2c083899bf7f965c5de84.jpg


Andy

[jon3950]

Thanks for your convcerns Tombie. I am unsure if the Devon one is non approved or not, but it has been fitted to a number of vehicles overseas, and there have not been any issues reported. Specifically designed for a D4 I am sure they know their stuff. So I am hopefull all will be OK. Whilst I acknowledge that there could/maybe issues with standard componetry of the D4, if I was as concerned as some people are about safety etc, then I would probably think twice about even getting behind the wheel of a car let along take one one the road in Australia. So I will take my chances like everybody else. If something happens I always have my "B" vehicle for a back up!! or is it my "A" vehicle?

I looked into these when I had a D4 and I also share Tombies concerns, particularly regarding the legalities.

However the Devon version was used by Land Rover on the Millionth Discovery expedition, so one would expect they were satisfied with the engineering of it.

Cheers,
Jon

[dirvine]

I have the Ironman winch. I have loosely bolted the winch to the tray and noted that I cannot turn the winch lever to free spool unless I cut something so probably it will stay always engauged, so slow wind out will have to happen. I do not like the control box being in front of the radiator as I think it will restrict airflow. I have noted that the "box" on the drivers side under the bonnet has spare space and I plan to see if I can locate the control box there. I also have a wireless connector, but there is a delay between pressing the buttons and the winch responding. By having the box in that location I hopefully will have the dual ability of wireless or wired controls. I also have the twist power disconnect switch. Time will tell once I start to pull the beast apart. I have not bought the fairlead as yet as I am undecided whether to use an alloy or stainless one. Devon recommend stainless. Also the number plate mount appears to have 4 pins that pull out to expose the hook.

[l00kin4]

Interesting looking over this again. I've been close to committing to a bulbar, then a discreet mount, then a bulbar but haven't pulled the trigger yet. I do want to mount a winch and I do really like the look of the front of the D4...

In this thread Discreet Mount Winch - Sydney (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/235726-discreet-mount-winch-sydney.html) Mike raised the following concerns and ended up not fitting a mount that he had purchased:

1 - Not ADR approved
2 - In my opinion it reduces frontal impact protection significantly
3 - Mounting the winch control box was total ass-pain it doesn't fit if mounted to the winch and wouldn't be accessible even if it did

So it seems people have sorted point 3 around the control box mounting depending on the winch installed;
Point 2 on impact protection, the Devon unit actually includes a replacement for the metal inner front bumper (also mentioned in the other thread) which would partly account for the price being around triple :o the Britpart unit, which is a tray which does not include this metal bumper replacement component.

131310

Point 1 on ADR compliance I haven't seen resolved either way.

If you want the better frontal protection of the Devon unit, you're looking at 1,006 GBP minus VAT plus freight which let's assume equates to pretty much the same price as an ARB or OL bulbar (as mentioned by dirvine David in the other thread). So basically no cost saving, just the aesthetic benefits which are a matter of personal taste. Other pros and cons of bullbars are addressed elsewhere.

All that of course if we set aside the question of ADR compliance - I can't quite get past this myself. So far...hmm

David

[Tombie]

You would want the bracing behind the bar of the Devon unit otherwise the smallest Roo would total the corners!

[wombathole]

You would want the bracing behind the bar of the Devon unit otherwise the smallest Roo would total the corners!

The plastic bumper has firm ribbing. For tiny hits, I think those will hold shape.

For major hits, I think the default design will crumple in multiple spots. Not only the metal bumper.

I agree that there will be a case where a hit ( at a specific angle and forced) would be handled by the factory bumper (or Devon bumper) which the smaller box would protect. i personally think this use case would be rare.

Imo the majority of hits big enough to collapse the plastic bumper would do damage to more than just the metal bumper.

Imo, this small corner case didn't justify the much higher cost of the Devon. My 2 cents. Each to their own.

[Tombie]

I hit 3 this morning on the way to work!!!
They’ll really mess up an aesthetic [emoji6]

Bloody things!!!

[dirvine]

I have now just finished fitting my Discrete winch mount. Just a question. Should the earth lead of the winch be at the battery terminal or at one of those earth points that LR recommend?

Thanks
David

[Tombie]

Earth points

[dirvine]

Meant to say I have a twin battery traxide system. I have the + at 2nd battery. So still use an earth point?

[Tombie]

You should power winch from Primary only and earth the body earth points.

Don’t run a winch from 2nd battery..

[dirvine]

Thanks. Will have to shorten the power lead now to make everything neat!![bawl]

[wombathole]

Thanks. Will have to shorten the power lead now to make everything neat!![bawl]

I earthed the winch wiring on the inner guard terminal just in front of the battery box.

I connected the +ve to the 12 volt lug at the beginning of the fuse box. Just inside the battery box. I considered having it come directly off the positive terminal, but was content with the place I chose.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/11/25.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/11/26.jpg

[l00kin4]

I have now just finished fitting my Discrete winch mount. Just a question. Should the earth lead of the winch be at the battery terminal or at one of those earth points that LR recommend?

Thanks
David

Looking forward to the pictures. [bigsmile1] David

[dirvine]

Here are the pics. I have not done the number plate as I am unsure if I want the hook attached all the time. Also dont like the hook I have, so will have to look around.Control box is bolt mounted in the brake line box, with the wireless remote button attached.

[BrianElloy]

I have recently purchased a discreet winch bar from UK. I will be fitting it sometime in Nov/Dec. I have no issues, cares or concerns about any mods I do to cars. If they are illegal and I get found out I will deal with them. If not (as has happened with my last vehicle), then I will happily motor along, in the knowledge that I have the equipment attached/onboard that will get me out of the trouble I may lead myself into.


i would REALLY appreciate it if you could keep me in the loop (with pictures!!) of how you go ok? very keen on following a similar path..

[Milton477]

DA7537 | Discreet Winch Mount - Land Rover Part DA7537 (https://www.lrdirect.com/DA7537-Discreet-Winch-Mount/?keep_https=yes)

I paid $405. 301 plus 104 shipping.

12000lb domin8r winch. $350.

$265 for the Ultra hook. Beautiful piece of bling.

Wombathole & others, thanks, you have made it look easy so that I have taken the plunge & now have the same winch mount & Domin8r winch ready to install this weekend.

I'd like to know if anyone has suggestions about what they might have done differently if the did the install again.

[dirvine]

Milton477, Make sure you have some good instructions on fitting the winch. If you only bought the cradle with some bolts and brackets for washer bottle and air junction box, then download the instructions for the Devon one (on the webite) and use them as approptriate. About the only tool I had to buy was a trim kit from Jaycar to remove the inner guard trim clips. Otherwise a normal tool box will be all you require along with a hacksaw or angle grinder. For me the hardest parts were trying to determine where I would mount the contol box so I would always have easy access, and having to cut the hole for the fairlead in the bumper bar. Otherwise its fairly straight forward.

[Milton477]

Milton477, Make sure you have some good instructions on fitting the winch. If you only bought the cradle with some bolts and brackets for washer bottle and air junction box, then download the instructions for the Devon one (on the webite) and use them as approptriate. About the only tool I had to buy was a trim kit from Jaycar to remove the inner guard trim clips. Otherwise a normal tool box will be all you require along with a hacksaw or angle grinder. For me the hardest parts were trying to determine where I would mount the contol box so I would always have easy access, and having to cut the hole for the fairlead in the bumper bar. Otherwise its fairly straight forward.

Thanks dirvine. The instructions are a bit skimpy with the LR Direct mount so I will look for the Devon ones. I see you put your control box where I have a 2nd dual battery so that will be an issue for me to find a suitable location where it is reasonably accessible. Were you happy with the supplied bolts & lack of washers?

[wombathole]

Trickiest part for me was the bolts onto the chassis rails. Instructions mentioned that different d4 models had different sized bolts. I have to drill out the threads which was easy. But getting new nuts aligned and tight was very cramped. Needed 4 hands. If I did it again I would use the nuts with the tabs welded to them.

Re the controller, I moved the horn, pulled the controller electrics out of the plastic box and mounted it where the horn originally lived. I table tied the wireless remote head onto the controller, so access is not required whilst in use.

Lastly, be careful when cutting the plastic bumper. I used a multi tool vibrating cutter which gave good control. It takes a while to work out what is essential to cut and in my opinion, I wanted to cut the least amount as possible. Lots of small cuts and test fittings worked. Just took time.

Enjoy, it’s a satisfying little project.

[Milton477]

Thanks guys, I will update the thread when I am done.

[dirvine]

Mine all bolted up with no mods at all. I read other posts bothe here and on an overseas website about bolts and drilling but I did not have to do anything. Perhaps this is the difference with the Devon unit. As I mentioned before, sometimes you get what you pay for, and cheap is not always an option. As i said the most stressfull thing for me was cutting the bumper bar on a new car to make the winch fit. In the end I should not have worried as you can hardly see the winch or any cutting that i did.

[Milton477]

Well I fitted mine this weekend. Not quite so easy...



The flanges on the end of the chassis where the winch mount bolts onto are set back 20 mm behind the radiator pack so spacers are needed to bring the winch mount forward to clear the rads. No mention of this in the instructions.
The captive 10 mm nut plates supplied with the winch mount are not quite the same distance apart as the 8 mm captive nuts in the chassis which have to be drilled out. This required elongating the holed in the chassis.


Anyway, got it done over 2 days & I am pleased with the result. The Domin8tor 12000 lb winch fits, just. I did not need to do change the position of the clutch as there is just enough room to access it through the grill. The relays were removed from their box & mounted behind the grill on a bracket & the controls extended so that the plug is in the engine bay.

A jig saw & multi tool were necessary for modifying the bumper. To fit the fairlead into the bumper, I used a framing square to transfer the vertical position of the bolts off the mount to the floor & horizontally onto the square. I then re-fitted the bumper & transferred the marks to the bumper. Drilled the 2 fairlead holed & attached the fairlead, marked around it & cut it out with the jigsaw.

139477139479139478

The number plate hides the fairlead. Anyone have any ideas for a hinge arrangement. At present I would have to unscrew the 4 screws to gain access to the winch & then fit the hook.

Cheers
Rory

[DiscoJeffster]

I guess the q is, how often will you use it? If it’s once a year, is unscrewing four screws that much of a problem?

[loanrangie]

Some piano hinge and pieces of velcro ?

[wombathole]

I guess the q is, how often will you use it? If it’s once a year, is unscrewing four screws that much of a problem?

I still have the screws but dream of a fancier solution. The winch is for insurance, and I haven't had to use it in anger in a year. So screws are fine.

I thought of using quarter turns for quick release, or a hinge arrangement.

[Tombie]

You can get an expensive hinge [emoji41] made for the purpose.

[trout1105]

Just wondering how do you access the clutch to freespool the winch if you need to.
Nice neat install BTW [thumbsupbig]

[Milton477]

I still have the screws but dream of a fancier solution. The winch is for insurance, and I haven't had to use it in anger in a year. So screws are fine.

I thought of using quarter turns for quick release, or a hinge arrangement.

Had a winch on my D2 & only used it twice in 10 years so based on that, the screws will suffice for now. Or maybe a bit of piano hinge & a couple of magnets....

[dirvine]

I bought a number plate flip hinge off ebay. Yes you could say its only 4 screws and I considered that, but when you are stuck its just another thing to have to do and another tool you need to carry every time you go out 4wding. Will post up pick of mine when its light tomorrow.

[matti4556]

I guess the q is, how often will you use it? If it’s once a year, is unscrewing four screws that much of a problem?

I'm thinking the same, but on my last 2 rovers with winches Murphy's law told me that the winch "needed to be used... and NOW! ... no time to look for that screwdriver".
I'm doing my D3 soon so I'm interested in a way of getting that number plate right out of the way and quickly. Slide in bracket perhaps??
Matti

[DiscoJeffster]

Just sticker the license plate to the side and remove the cover altogether?

[Turtle60]

Interested in this answer too. Does one have to electrically wind it out? Really like this option over a bar simply to retain the look.



Just wondering how do you access the clutch to freespool the winch if you need to.
Nice neat install BTW [thumbsupbig]

[Milton477]

Just wondering how do you access the clutch to freespool the winch if you need to.
Nice neat install BTW [thumbsupbig]

I can get my fingers under the clutch through the slot in the bumper. Lift slightly & turn. This winch has a knurled knob (haha) rather than a lever. Discovered today I can't get my hand in with the number plate in place.

[dirvine]

Pics as promised. I dont use a hook preferring to use shackles, hence the bolt through the eyelet

[wombathole]

Interested in this answer too. Does one have to electrically wind it out? Really like this option over a bar simply to retain the look.

By pure fluke the dominator winch has a tiny knob for the clutch which is small enough to turn. For other winches, I think it’s likely the clutch will interfere with the main bumper cross member.

[AnD3rew]

Aq
There is a mechanic in Sydney that does this too and it is very clean. I saw his and I am tempted. Not sure what he is called here but he is from Cremorne Prestige

Greg Pearson

it is a very neat set up.

[dirvine]

With mine I can push the clutch lever back with my fingers so I can free spool. It is a bit on a fiddle to pull it back to lock the clutch, but is doable. I always leave the winch locked. In any case there is not much difference with free spooling and electric wind out. Also the extra time gives you time to properly assess the situation and make careful decisions.

[b0son]

Pics as promised. I dont use a hook preferring to use shackles, hence the bolt through the eyelet

Do your front sensors still work? I know it says on the D44 site they need to be disabled, but surely if you go the discreet route and donthave a hook attached 24/7, it shouldnt matter? Or do the sensors themselves have to come out to enable fitment?

I'm considering this kit, will likely never need it, but if we're going solo, I dont want to be potentially stuck waiting days for someone to come down a dis-used track....

[dirvine]

All the front sensors work. I also read that somewhere. With the Devon mount you remove a lot of the plastic square boxed webbing bracing behind the bumper bar. I did not quite follow that advice as I had read on another website if you did that then you had to remount the parking sensors. so I just cut out the "webbing where needed so that the brace front bar of the Devon unit would fit. It was a while ago I did this mod so I cannot remember the exact cut out but I do know the water bottle, air junction box etc all mounted on the new cross bar, and there was no need to remove any sensors, which all work. I am sure that with a small hook attached it would not send the sensors off. But I use a shackle bot rather than a hook to connect my cable to either another car or strap around a tree, so not worries there.

[Milton477]

Nowhere near as much cutting of the webbing with the LR Direct mount when compared to the much more expensive option from Devon. My parking sensors are nowhere near where I had to cut & most of the webbing is still in tact. The up side of the Devon mount is that they have a much more substantial system to replace the bumper bar that gets removed in the process. This is what causes all the web cutting.

Not mentioned in any documentation I found, is the air scoop that hides behind the bumper. I had to remove this & was concerned about cooling, not only with the scoop removed but now with a winch mount covering the radiators. Now in the middle of a trip I feel (non scientifically) that the radiator runs 3 or 4 degrees higher at 100 km/h on the flat as indicated by GAP than it used to. Climbing the range outside Monto, the ambient was 28 deg & the radiator got to 108 deg & stayed there for the climb which is no different to before.

[Tombie]

With mine I can push the clutch lever back with my fingers so I can free spool. It is a bit on a fiddle to pull it back to lock the clutch, but is doable. I always leave the winch locked. In any case there is not much difference with free spooling and electric wind out. Also the extra time gives you time to properly assess the situation and make careful decisions.

Depends where your brake is in that model winch.

Spooling out generates a lot of heat on some winches and will shorten the life of, weaken or destroy synthetic rope if that is what you run.

[dirvine]

I had same concern and earlier this year I was towing a caravan up the Adelaide hills when the outside Temp was 48C!!. Car temp went off the gauge and then the car went into limp mode (air con off and gearbox locked in 3 or 4) and I just kept on going, with temp reducing. So I figured the vent box whilst it may have helped and the blocking of the wind by the winch was not as big a concern as I thought. If the car can handle that sort of extremes it can handle any high temp in my opinion!

[dirvine]

Depends where your brake is in that model winch.

Spooling out generates a lot of heat on some winches and will shorten the life of, weaken or destroy synthetic rope if that is what you run.
Must admit Tombie I have not had to wind the winch out yet so I am unsure if the drum gets hot or not.. But if it gets hot then I will use the clutch lever. Usually there is a gap of time between wind out and wind in whilst you hook a strap around something and connect it all up, put on the damper and clear all the idiots out the way!!

[matti4556]

Fitted the TerraFirma Discrete winch mount and a Dominator winch last weekend. Not such a big deal to instal (a lot of fun actually) Its amazing how quickly you can pull apart the front end of a Disco 3. But the number plate mounting had me stumped. Ended up getting the Uneek 4X4 flip-up frame and fitted that today. The result is a fairly discrete winch setup which is easy to use. I'm happy with it. Nice peace of mind knowing I can self-recover once again if needed. If you are contemplating this install I wouldn't hesitate to recommend giving it a crack.
I'm not recommending these vendors below as such, you can get the parts from most places. These just happen to be where I got mine from so you can whet your whistle looking at the pictures and stuff.
Winch Mount - Winch Mount D3 TF096 TF097 Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order. (https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/winch-mount-d3d4rrs-terrafirma-tf096-tf097-p-27563.html)
Winch - Domin8r X 12,000lb Winch with rope , 4WD & Outdoor Products - Australia (https://www.4wdsupacentre.com.au/domin8r-x-12-000lb-winch-with-rope.html)
Number Plate Flip up mount - Number plate flip bracket (http://www.uneek4x4.com.au/bull-bar-number-plate-flip/)

and because its the most important part of any thread ----- photos!
This is the sad looking front end with the lights, grille and bumper cover and bumper removed with winch tray and winch offered-up.
140420

This is a close-up photo of the winch in the tray (it easier to fit the Hawse fairlead and winch into the tray before bolting up. I had to drill-out the 8mm bolts to use the 10mm 8.8 bolts and nuts supplied. Not difficult.
140422

The following photo shows where I mounted the remote control socket - easily accessible yet remains discreet.
140423

The original number plate mount was refitted with a slot cut (using a butane torch fitted with a heated rope cutting blade) into the lower edge of the winch rope to exit during storage. This was a temporary measure until the flip up number plate mount arrived, but would also do in a pinch as only 7 screws need out be removed to use the winch. I just dont like taking out screws (and losing them) during a recovery.
140424

This is the flip-up type number plate frame fitted this morning. I guess I could have fabricated one myself, but the built quality of the bought one is pretty good, and I'm getting lazy these days - so the 50 bucks spent saved me quite some time in the shed looking for the right bits. Took the missus to lunch with the fabrication time I saved - a far more profitable use of my time trust me! [smilebigeye]
140425
140426
140427

I am going to plug the 4 visible drill holes from the old number plate setup with those small plugs you use to plug holes in irrigation lines. I think they will be small enough to be discrete. When I find them!
I hope this post inspires some of you to take it on. The previous posts in this thread inspired me to take the plunge on what I see is a useful accessory (for me) without stumping up for a bull bar (which I don't really want on this car)

Cheers - Matti

[dirvine]

Nice Job Matti. My only concern is the exposure of the remote control socket. With a previous vehicle I had a very exposed socket and even though covered with a rubber grommet water got inside and corroded the connections. Its in a very easy accessable spot for you I agree but did your winch come with a wireless remote? If so perhaps a better place to put it would have been under the bonnet and less exposed to the elements. I know some people dont like wireless remote as there is a lag between pressing the buttons and the winch starting to wind. I used my winch last week for the 1st time, pulling out a Pajero that had gone down a hill that it should not have... and it worked a treat.Others on the trip did not even know I had the winch until I fliped the number plate!!

[matti4556]

Nice Job Matti. My only concern is the exposure of the remote control socket.

Thanks Dirvine, (and to all the "thanks" posters) I like to do the "photos" thing because its an enjoyable part of this forum to look at the vehicles we have and how we go about different things.
On my last D1 I had it (the socket) in a similar location and "touch wood" it didn't cause any issues back then - maybe #POP058 PaulT can give me an update on its longevity to date [smilebigeye].
And also being a sparky the issue isn't too big a concern for me to "fix" in the field. I can see your point though.
Yes - it does have the remote feature as well. Not too much of a delay to be worried about in my opinion- "close enough for the girls I go out with!" [bigsmile]
Matti

[Tombie]

Clean, nice work.

As has been mentioned - is your winch the remote control version?

[matti4556]

It is Tombie - It comes with the remote dongle thats inserted into the socket for wireless operation. Had a few goes of it before the factory supplied battery went dead - (1 x A23 12V battery). So I bought a couple of spares of the glovebox.
I prefer the wired setup though and actually sitting behind the wheel. I can see the benefits of winching from outside the car when its someone else's vehicle being recovered (and the tail of the winching vehicle is tethered to a tree.)

Fun Fact: Researching button batteries for my regular job - the A23 "battery" is a stack of 8 x LR932, 1.5 volt cells (button batteries) with heat shrink around them to make it look like one battery. A few batteries are like this construction, just stacked button batteries. Tear the outer covering off and the 8 cells tumble onto the desk.
140462

[Tombie]

Yeah common... [emoji41]

So I’m going to scare you a little now. [emoji41]

The receiver unit is not IP rated at all, so where you have the box, it’s very likely even a shallow puddle could short it and have your winch running..

May be worth at the minimum removing the receiver and extending its cables to put the receiver up high and dry.

[Milton477]

Fortunately, all good cheapie winches come with a mains isolator as standard to backup their no IP rated electronics.

[Tombie]

Fortunately, all good cheapie winches come with a mains isolator as standard to backup their no IP rated electronics.

No good when you turn it on and it takes off!!!

[Milton477]

Absolutely. I extended the wires & moved the plug into the engine bay where I can get to it easily & the remote receiver lives in the cubby until needed.

[matti4556]

Yeah common... [emoji41]

So I’m going to scare you a little now. [emoji41]

The receiver unit is not IP rated at all, so where you have the box, it’s very likely even a shallow puddle could short it and have your winch running..



Thanks Tombie - Good point. I will keep that in mind. Although the receiver lives in the glovebox until needed.

[Tombie]

Thanks Tombie - Good point. I will keep that in mind. Although the receiver lives in the glovebox until needed.

No worries. It’s the unit inside the solenoid housing that shorts and starts running the winch without the remote!

[matti4556]

No worries. It’s the unit inside the solenoid housing that shorts and starts running the winch without the remote!

Ahhh - Roger that - understood now Tombie. The solenoid pack is a lot higher up and mounted behind the sub-frame rail and in front of the radiators (out of the airflow) There was no photo of the completed install so I can understand your concern about it being so low where the remote connection socket was noted in my photos. I will keep an eye on it though. Thanks of the heads-up. Cheers.

[Turtle60]

I have read the posts on the hidden winch Mount and stripped the car today but got stuck as I just could not figure how to remove the plastic air dam which sticks out and clearly needs to be removed to bolt the new winch plate. The shroud appears to held entirely by 2 8mm bolts. One is behind/ below the radiator expansion tank. Just could not get any tool on it at all. If anyone has encountered this your help is welcome. I was defeated and tail between my legs reassembled to fight another day.

[loanrangie]

2 screw's accessed from engine bay at about lower head light level, will need to move coolant bottle slightly to get a driver onto it.
Remove head lights if not done already.

[Milton477]

I can't remember how I got them out but I do remember thinking in 4 letter words as I did it. Passenger side was the most awkward. Good luck.

[dirvine]

I have read the posts on the hidden winch Mount and stripped the car today but got stuck as I just could not figure how to remove the plastic air dam which sticks out and clearly needs to be removed to bolt the new winch plate. The shroud appears to held entirely by 2 8mm bolts. One is behind/ below the radiator expansion tank. Just could not get any tool on it at all. If anyone has encountered this your help is welcome. I was defeated and tail between my legs reassembled to fight another day.
If you get onto the Devon site (I think) there is extensive notes on how to fit the winch bar. Whilst yours is not the same it does have similar.
Try this link:
https://www.devon4x4.com/techpdf/Product%20data%20and%20Technical%20Libary/4.%20Instructions%20and%20How%20To/D44%20Fitting%20Instructions/d3%20d4%20winch%20mount%20fitting%20guide.pdf

David

[Turtle60]

I can't remember how I got them out but I do remember thinking in 4 letter words as I did it. Passenger side was the most awkward. Good luck.

Correct the passenger is the drama. Was quite pleased with myself and shocked as in little over an hour the car resembled a write off then the next 2 hours trying to Extract just ONE bolt unsuccessfully. BTW I wasn’t just thinking 4 letter words!

So just a question are you happy with the Mount v bull bar. I nearly never drive at night so don’t need spotlights etc. any downside besides formerly mentioned adr issues.

Loanrangie ive YouTubed a clip on the expansion tank removal except now I have to remove the dual battery as well. But I think that’s about my only option. First I might sacrifice an 8 mm spanner and shorten it as I think I can get that in...perhaps.

[loanrangie]

I tried but in the end it was quicker to just undo 1 bolt and gently push the bottle to one side enough to get access.

[Milton477]

Correct the passenger is the drama. Was quite pleased with myself and shocked as in little over an hour the car resembled a write off then the next 2 hours trying to Extract just ONE bolt unsuccessfully. BTW I wasn’t just thinking 4 letter words!

So just a question are you happy with the Mount v bull bar. I nearly never drive at night so don’t need spotlights etc. any downside besides formerly mentioned adr issues.

Loanrangie ive YouTubed a clip on the expansion tank removal except now I have to remove the dual battery as well. But I think that’s about my only option. First I might sacrifice an 8 mm spanner and shorten it as I think I can get that in...perhaps.

I'm happy, haven't been stuck since I fitted the winch so it must be working [bigwhistle].

I seem to remember a 1/4" ratchet & socket in the removal of the scoop. Definitely didn't remove the dual battery or expansion tank or sacrifice a spanner.

[Piddler]

Yeah common... [emoji41]

So I’m going to scare you a little now. [emoji41]

The receiver unit is not IP rated at all, so where you have the box, it’s very likely even a shallow puddle could short it and have your winch running..

May be worth at the minimum removing the receiver and extending its cables to put the receiver up high and dry.

Yes, got rid of wireless on mine for that reason.

Cheers

[Turtle60]

I'm happy, haven't been stuck since I fitted the winch so it must be working [bigwhistle].

I seem to remember a 1/4" ratchet & socket in the removal of the scoop. Definitely didn't remove the dual battery or expansion tank or sacrifice a spanner.

Well break through. The bad boy to get at it was a 60cm Flexi with 1/4 drive. Was able to get it out before pulling the front apart so quite pleased. Second battery had to go though just no room.

So the from from there I have fashioned a bracket in the box near firewall on the drivers side. The control box fits perfect. Will run some longer cables to the winch from there. If it gets wet in there I’m in much bigger trouble.

Will do do the actual winch Mount next week but given the dramas I feel that shouldn’t be an issue. After that if I can take photos I’ll post up my build which is starting to take shape.

Thanks to all for you learned wisdom.

[Turtle60]

Bit the bullet and had a good crack at this today. 142065Found a you tube clip and stripped it down. Pretty straight forward. 142067142066Before I sliced and diced the bar I fashioned a bracket and mounted the control box inside the box on drivers side firewall. Figured if I can’t do this no point doing the rest cause buggered if I could see where you could locate it. Fitted easily though without disturbing anything. Mounting the actual winch cradle with captive nuts was a pain and I ended ditching one for just nuts as I could get a spanner on them. 142068After cutting all the webbing out on the back of the plastic bar with a diamond blade angle grinder and some trimming the bar went back on the for locating fairlead position. I made a sort of jig to mark the position of the height and position of the holes. Put the bar on and marked and drilled and surprisingly was spot on. Grabbed a suitable hole saw for the ends then cut the rest when angle Grinder. You could use a jigsaw I suppose. After that was back on, tape off, number plate cover on and you’d never no I’ve been here. 142069142070142071142072142073There is the finished product. Obviously made up new leads to link the winch and control box. The power from (start battery) has a breaker on it and it’s wireless remote. All in all a day and a half well spent.

I got got this 8 months ago as a stock 2014 tdv6, White, black leather and rear diff lock and so far have added.

dual battery
rear 12 volt plug in rear
rock slider/ steps
mitch hitch
compomotive 18” rims with 265/65 ko2
Icom UHF ( stealth install)
tint and rubber mats
roof bars and awning
Gap ID BT tool ( so have three suspension settings)

It looks pretty solid now. Only issue my wife is not a fan of my ( hey I’m 57 ) pensioner car. Yep can you believe that. Does concede it’s seriously comfortable and loves all the storage etc. I just love em period but taken me till know to be in a position the get one. Well see how she goes.

Anyway thought I’d share this having been inspired by previous posts on this thread. Cheers to you for the help.

[Milton477]

& cheers to you for a neat job, especially with the fairlead.

[JustinSyd]

Thanks for the write up, I'm considering doing this on my '16 Disco. With the face-plate thing mounted to plastic trim, would this be a problem if winching at a bit of an angle (ie not directly straight) or even to a point much lower or higher that the winch vehicle? I'm worried the plastic will get bent out of shape if this happens. Or is it support by a bracket behind the plastic trim?

Cheers,
Justin

[l00kin4]

Hi Justin,

It's a bit hard to see in the pics but as you suspected the hawse fairlead (face-plate guide thing) is bolted to the robust structure of the mount behind the bumper bar - you can see it more clearly in this earlier post: https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/255045-hidden-winch-d3-4-standard-bumper-no-roo-bar-4.html#post2799320 - so no worries with any load on or deformation to the plastic bumper.

David


Thanks for the write up, I'm considering doing this on my '16 Disco. With the face-plate thing mounted to plastic trim, would this be a problem if winching at a bit of an angle (ie not directly straight) or even to a point much lower or higher that the winch vehicle? I'm worried the plastic will get bent out of shape if this happens. Or is it support by a bracket behind the plastic trim?

Cheers,
Justin

[wombathole]

My fairlead is firmly mounted to the winch mount and sits behind the plastic bumper.  for easy access i've cut the bumper away.  If I want it totally hidden, the numberplate covers the whole lot with 30mm plastic spacers (cut up pvc pipe from the home watering system box. <br><br><br>
Hi Justin,&lt;br&gt;<br>
&lt;br&gt;<br>
It's a bit hard to see in the pics but as you suspected the hawse fairlead (face-plate guide thing) is bolted to the robust structure of the mount behind the bumper bar - you can see it more clearly in this earlier post: &lt;a href="!m255045!l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/255045-hidden-winch-d3-4-standard-bumper-no-roo-bar-4.html#post2799320" target="_blank"&gt;https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/255045-hidden-winch-d3-4-standard-bumper-no-roo-bar-4.html#post2799320&lt;/a&gt; - so no worries with any load on or deformation to the plastic bumper.&lt;br&gt;<br>
&lt;br&gt;<br>
David&lt;br&gt;<br>
&lt;br&gt;<br>

[Laurie 123]

No issue there at all... it’s up to you...

The equipment onboard may however get you into trouble if it causes inappropriate vehicle behaviour..

Do you not have any concerns that a small impact may result in your airbags triggering inappropriately?
Considering the injury to you and yours this can cause (they go off with the power of an Army Mortar).

Or the consideration that an incorrect trigger will likely write the vehicle off economically?

Many companies now download the SRS telemetry post accident, and this may prove detrimental.

Just things to consider..
Yeah hi Tombie funny you say that because i have been looking at installing ARB bar to my Disco3.The agent here in Katherine NT warned me about installing my self because of this very reason .I only just put out a question on this with replies like Don't be rediculous every one installs their own bull bars ,but like you say and as RJ motors have told me ,just the slightest bump could trigger the SRS if not installed correctly.Im glad i found your replies .Thankyou !

[Laurie 123]

Thanks for your convcerns Tombie. I am unsure if the Devon one is non approved or not, but it has been fitted to a number of vehicles overseas, and there have not been any issues reported. Specifically designed for a D4 I am sure they know their stuff. So I am hopefull all will be OK. Whilst I acknowledge that there could/maybe issues with standard componetry of the D4, if I was as concerned as some people are about safety etc, then I would probably think twice about even getting behind the wheel of a car let along take one one the road in Australia. So I will take my chances like everybody else. If something happens I always have my "B" vehicle for a back up!! or is it my "A" vehicle?



Hi Dirvine ,i think Tombie is right i have been told the same thing by arb Its ok if they are approved and installed by an approved installer ,but i wouldn't go down the road of installing one myself anything that wasn.t compliant,it could possibly endanger members of the public,hell even hitting a Roo if not correctly installed can trigger the srs ,or a dog for that matter.Also you can say good by to your insurance. .Just thought i would add my little bit to it hehehe.

[loanrangie]

Hi Dirvine ,i think Tombie is right i have been told the same thing by arb Its ok if they are approved and installed by an approved installer ,but i wouldn't go down the road of installing one myself anything that wasn.t compliant,it could possibly endanger members of the public,hell even hitting a Roo if not correctly installed can trigger the srs ,or a dog for that matter.Also you can say good by to your insurance. .Just thought i would add my little bit to it hehehe.

Load of rubbish, plenty including myself have fitted their own bar, i have even given a love tap with the bar and airbag did not go off.
Members on here have hit roos and bags have not gone off, the bar mounts have no contact or trigger for the airbags at all.

[101RRS]

My understanding is that the switching method for the airbags is via a deceleration/shock sensor rather than the much earlier mechanical switch at the front of the car so really is this aspect the bullbar is irrelavant.

A bull bar may change the way shock is transmitted through the car and may change the deceleration rate of the vehicle in an accident/hit but poor fitting is unlikely to affect how a modern airbag goes off.

Laurie you are over thinking things.

[DiscoJeffster]

The Disco uses deceleration sensors positioned in various positions in the vehicle to sense various impact scenarios. At the end of the day, if a roo bar reduces deceleration then that is taken into account by the sensors. When they sense the rate of deceleration that requires an airbag deployment, then they will launch. Simple

[JustinSyd]

Thanks Wombathole and l00kin4 for the replies on winch mounting. It looks like a really neat solution.

[Russrobe]

The impact sensors don't just measure deceleration. Otherwise they wouldn't have gone off on my old one when i hit a smallish roo and didn't decelerate at all, the impact was too small to decelerate the vehicle.

[DiscoJeffster]

The impact sensors don't just measure deceleration. Otherwise they wouldn't have gone off on my old one when i hit a smallish roo and didn't decelerate at all, the impact was too small to decelerate the vehicle.

You're right, they measure acceleration in a negative sort of way, and whether you like it or not, they're not magical. From the manual:

Impact sensors are installed in the front and both sides of the vehicle. The use of multiple impact sensors provides shorter air bag trigger times, through faster detection of lateral and longitudinal acceleration, and improves detection accuracy.
There are two front impact sensors attached to brackets on the body front support frame, just above each front longitudinal.




Each impact sensor incorporates an accelerometer and a microcontroller powered by a feed from the RCM. The power feed also provides the interface connection through which the impact sensor communicates with the RCM using serial data messages. Acceleration is evaluated by the microcontroller and transmitted to the RCM, which then makes the decision on whether or not to activate the air bags and pretensioners.

[DiscoJeffster]

To add
The driver and passenger air bags are only fired in a frontal impact that exceeds the stage 1 threshold. Both stages of the inflator in the driver and passenger air bags are fired. At impacts between the stage 1 and 2 thresholds, the delay between the firing of the two stages varies with the severity of the impact; the more severe the impact the shorter the delay. At stage 2 impact thresholds and above, the two stages of the inflator are fired almost simultaneously. The passenger air bag is disabled unless the front passenger seat is occupied by a large person (NAS only), or the passenger air bag deactivation switch is on (all except NAS). The time delay between firing the two stages of the inflator in the driver air bag is increased if the driver seat is forward of the seat position sensor switching point.

[Russrobe]

Interesting, I had to replace the RF impact sensor on my current D4 last year as it set off the airbag light. Will be pulling it apart to inspect this accelerometer! They're not cheap, It was about $180AUD from memory, very expensive for something that's included for free in every mobile phone currently on the market. I know, it's obviously got an important job and must be precise, but it's still the same tech.

More interesting that there has been a recent spate of airbags going off at as little as 10km/h in car parks with only minor panel damage.... Makes you wonder how the engineers decide on the acceleration (+/-) threshold.

[DiscoJeffster]

So when I was involved in Motorsport, we’d use three axis solid state accelerometers to plot track and g-forces etc. You’d mount it centrally to get the best accuracy. For the bags it makes sense to place an accelerometer closest to the bag in question to capture the shock pulse as soon as possible, plus the intensity at the impact point (crumple zones and substrate of the vehicle will change the wave pattern). This explains the number of sensors on the vehicle and their placement. I cannot fathom why they’re going off in car parks other than they’re not small impacts and are triggering stage 1. Saying that, it should require it to be enough for bodily impact to a vehicle surface, and 10kph isn’t that.

[LRD414]

I have been considering discreet winch mounts and came across an Australian made option currently only available for 200 series Toyota.
https://www.hiddenwinch4x4.com.au/about-us/

I spoke to the owner yesterday and I certainly like the idea of an Australian designed & compliant product.
https://www.hiddenwinch4x4.com.au/product-details/#safety-standards

What they need is a donor vehicle for a couple of days to take measurements and undertake test fitment.
They are NSW central coast based, so a logistical challenge for me coming from Brisbane.
Maybe someone else in the forum might be interested.

Cheers,
Scott

PS ...
I'm also aware of the new'ish UK option from Prospeed:
http://prospeed-group.co.uk/product/discovery-34-hidden-winch-mount-and-bull-bar/
Forum Thread: Prospeed hidden winch (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/264903-prospeed-hidden-winch-4.html)

[dirvine]

I have the Devon unit which was put on a classic Discovery (1 milionth car??) This cost me $1400 from memory. It includes a bar that goes behind the bumper replacing the one that is discarded. You can get a cheaper unit without the bar and these were costing about $400-$500. These bars from prospeed are very expensive, and to me hardly look discreet. Other than a flip up front number plate and looking very closely at the gap in the front lower grill you would not know I had a winch in there. I cannot see these units coming anywhere near those costs, but i guess we would be supporting a Aussie product!.

[Sven94]

Turtle60 - are you able to a reach the winch dog clutch lever?

[Turtle60]

Turtle60 - are you able to a reach the winch dog clutch lever?
Id have to check but I just leave it engaged. I have a cut off twist type switch under the bonnet. So only turn it on when I need it or a high chance I’ll need it. Happy to report that after 1 year I used it on our ill fated trip to the outback which resulted in our friends rolling their camper. D4 hidden winch to the rescue. Certainly made a couple of eyes pop when I furled out the winch from behind the plate.
The only risk of being engaged is it “may” fire up on its own. Used wisely I think this is very unlikely and secondary to not being able to engage a frozen gearbox

[Turtle60]

I might add that this means you have to mechanically wind the winch rope out as opposed to pulling it out. Myself I rather have a control unfurling than pulling it out and slipping arse over in mud etc. its not loaded or working hard and doesn’t noticeably take any longer.

[Turtle60]

Turtle60 - are you able to a reach the winch dog clutch lever?

Checked today and yes you can. re - Positioning of the clutch dog lever may be required to make it easier depending on your winch.

[LRD414]

Looking back in this thread I see that I've been toying with adding a winch for 2 years ..... and now it's done.
Prospeed winch mount & fairlead with a Carbon Winch 12K powered through a Blue Seas ML-RBS remote control isolator.

No question it was the biggest, most complicated and challenging mod I’ve done on the D4. Including all the pre-work for the battery isolator there was at least 50 hours work, which I spread out over a few weeks. I think it’s come up pretty well. Less than $3,000 when all parts, cables and ancillaries are included. Obviously not the cheapest version but at this stage I'm happy with what's been pulled together. One item to add is a Factor 55 Flat Link to replace the soft shackle currently holding the eye, plus I'm going to investigate mobile bumper repairers to plug the number plate bracket screw holes.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49198062847_f565f1cce4_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hXsW3T)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49197367153_b40090881f_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hXpnfa)

A few challenges cropped up along the way to make everything fit neatly and a couple of specific ratchet spanners saved the day.
13mm bent for the bottom corner chassis bolts; only spanner that would fit.
8mm stubby for the very hard to reach bolts to the removed plastic shroud.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49197865636_c382fa4234_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hXrVqG)

No issues with re-using the 8 factory bolts for the main mounts but the cradle design didn't quite provide enough access to get to the bolts. That was the most frustrating part, just because a very small tweak to the design would have made it a simple task. Maybe the 35 degree heat didn't help. Having said that Prospeed have still developed a very well resolved product.

Creating the fairlead hole and shaped cutout to the front of the winch took many hours of careful measuring and slow removal by Dremel cutting wheel and sanding disc. But I think the effort was worth it.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49198066857_f1ca22a2ef_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hXsXf2)

The freespool can be reached through the bumper and is reasonably easy to turn.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49198064487_e520cf9770_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hXsWxa)

I put the isolator, wireless receiver, gearbox breather and small fuse block all in the driver side battery box out of harms way. The wiring is a bit messy due to using plugs for most connections and needing to have some slack but nothing is unprotected or likely to rub.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49197368148_50c738b59b_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hXpnxj)

This isolator has a manual function as well as in-cab switching, which I located in the overhead light binnacle.
The little LED indicates when the isolator is connected and live.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49131770842_43a1b4cf1b_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hRBaKh)

I've also mounted the wired remote plug base up high as a back-up in case the wireless remote fails.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49197640688_0148d2f4ab_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hXqLyh)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49198064157_ec76e987e0_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hXsWrt)

Cheers,
Scott

[INter674]

Wow...looks really good. ..the D4 front end looks better every time I look at it😎..and the winch just adds to the eye candy!!

I'm seriously tempted to do this mod...just for looks😆

My boys would of course rubbish me as our D4 is not allowed to go off road...even tho it would cream their std Patrols!

Where'd u get the parts?

[dirvine]

Looks good. As you know I fitted the Devon unit. Also I like the idea that your side bits are pipe whereas mine is "U" shaped metal. It would be interesting to see which is stronger/better with the outside brackets to hold the washer bottle etc. Yours seems to have a little "pouch" in front of the air suspension distribution box. Its funny but I did not need any special spanners nor have any problems fitting the mount. It seems that just about every unit of a D4 made by LR has different items so require different tools to fix things. Also looking at the Devon Web site it it cheaper by 100 UK pounds but the fairlead is an extra so probably just about same in cost. I have used mine a few times now especially when I take the caravan away and get stuck in a muddy hill climb out of the camp site. The only other thing I worry about is being able to ever service the winch should it need it. Have to pull everything out to get to it. With a BB is just drop the winch plate. I also question if you really need a hook on the winch line I use a shackle bolt as most of the time you are attaching to a snatch strap or tree protector. Thats why you cannot see my Winch as it is well hidden behind the flip up rego plate with no hook or cable exposed and held in place by a nut and bolt through the cable end hoop.

[LRD414]

Where'd u get the parts?
Direct from suppliers for the mount and winch.
Outback Marine for the isolator.
Jaycar for other miscellaneous items.

[LRD414]

Yours seems to have a little "pouch" in front of the air suspension distribution box.
It came supplied with a bracket to mount the solenoid, which is specifically designed for the Warn Zeon.
I adapted the bracket and the solenoid cover box that came with the winch, which took a bit of extra effort but came up pretty well.


.... service the winch should it need it. Have to pull everything out to get to it.
I wish the winch could be serviced in-situ (after bumper removal) but doubt it.
Depends on what access is required to open things up to replace seals.
Might be ok if you just need to pull ends off but either way it'll be an all day job.

Regards,
Scott

[Konradical]

Well done Scott, looks awesome.

I have been watching these Prospeed mounts for a bit and hope to get onto one soon. The only difference would be I'd like the one with the hoop. From what you have seen with yours, would you think the extra mod for the bar is worth while or arduous?

Also, what we're the freight circumstances with getting it to Aus?

Cheers

[LRD414]

From what you have seen with yours, would you think the extra mod for the bar is worth while or arduous?
There are mount holes on the winch bracket for the bar and I believe you are provided with a template to cut the extra holes in the bumper top surface.
If you want the bar I think the extra effort would be reasonable given all the bumper cutting you have to complete anyway for the winch.


.... freight circumstances with getting it to Aus?
Freight was simple & all organised by Prospeed but I did have to pay the GST/Duty to freight company once goods arrived to Aus.

Cheers,
Scott

[Milton477]

Nice job.

[Turtle60]

Top notch job Scott. Perfect actually.

[Odysseyman]

“The only other thing I worry about is being able to ever service the winch should it need it. Have to pull everything out to get to it.”

apparently the best way to minimise (but not avoid forever) the need for servicing of the winch is to regularly, say every two weeks, is to operate the winch out and back in at least once. This warms the winch gearbox and helps to dry out any moisture in it which is what kills the gearbox. It’s especially important after water crossings, and if you’re really anal, after really heavy rain as well. It’s usually recommended by the manufacturers that they are serviced annually but I think that if they are used regularly this interval can be stretched a bit.
cheers
David

[l00kin4]

Brilliant Scott - very nicely done. I'm still fluffing around agonising whether to go the easy path and whack on a bullbar.

I just really prefer this discreet option - I really do like the front end of the D4 hmmmm

David

[LRD414]

I just really prefer this discreet option - I really do like the front end of the D4
Just do it already :)

[Odysseyman]

Forgot to say Scott you’ve done a really nice job there. I watched the other day the video which made you decide to buy one [bigsad]
cheers
David

[INter674]

Brilliant Scott - very nicely done. I'm still fluffing around agonising whether to go the easy path and whack on a bullbar.

I just really prefer this discreet option - I really do like the front end of the D4 hmmmm

David

Bull bars do nothing for the D4 look IMHO😐

[LRD414]

apparently the best way to minimise (but not avoid forever) the need for servicing of the winch is to regularly, say every two weeks, is to operate the winch out and back in at least once. This warms the winch gearbox and helps to dry out any moisture in it which is what kills the gearbox.
The maintenance schedule provided by Carbon Winch requires operation of the winch once a month for the reasons you've mentioned (redistribute grease and displace condensation) as well as after water crossings or submersion in mud. They also recommend yearly maintenance of the gearbox, which is disassemble, clean & regrease. However this is not a prerequisite for the warranty to be maintained, which I take as a good sign for the unit's quality.

I rigged up some of my recovery gear in order to spool the rope off the drum and run it in under tension, which is also a prerequisite of the installation instructions. This being up and down my driveway also makes it relatively easy for me to comply with the monthly operation, given that I just don't get out in technical terrain anywhere near that often.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49197864336_b505e91b49_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hXrV3h)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49197367458_1e42244d51_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hXpnkq)

Scott

[LRD414]

One item to add is a Factor 55 Flat Link to replace the soft shackle currently holding the eye, plus I'm going to investigate mobile bumper repairers to plug the number plate bracket screw holes.
Flat Link added and bumper repair done.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49220726503_e6f7f075bb_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hZt6az)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49221206156_cc527eaae8_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hZvxKs)

[INter674]

Yum yum😉

[Tankmat]

Bumper looks amazing Scott, I can’t see any sign of those number plate screw holes. Who did the work for you?

[LRD414]

Bumper looks amazing Scott, I can’t see any sign of those number plate screw holes. Who did the work for you?
I used a local mobile guy known as Professional Mobile Touchups.
Professional Mobile Touchups (http://www.professionalmobiletouchups.com.au/)

[Barraman]

Bull bars do nothing for the D4 look IMHO😐

Fortunately beauty is in the eye of the beholder (which explains how it is that ugly people ..........)!

Personally I like the look of a bull bar on a D4 and in my case the score is: Bull bar 2 vs Roos 0

[INter674]

Fortunately beauty is in the eye of the beholder (which explains how it is that ugly people ..........)!

Personally I like the look of a bull bar on a D4 and in my case the score is: Bull bar 2 vs Roos 0

Yes agree re roos. Im yet to hit one with the D4 so it will be interesting to see how the front holds up. Daughters suzuki swift has had 2 fronts replaced in 2 years and daughter in law with same car has had 3 replaced in 2 years. They keep the local bodywork in business☺

[Eric SDV6SE]

I reckon some roos are on a retainer by the panel shops...

I personally like the look of a bar on a D4 and mine has also saved us from expensive repairs with local Wildlife. I just wish my ARB was a winch bar or if I could retrofit/ modify it to make it one. Acres of room behind the bar, just need the correct reinforcing plates etc.

[DiscoJeffster]

I reckon some roos are on a retainer by the panel shops...

I personally like the look of a bar on a D4 and mine has also saved us from expensive repairs with local Wildlife. I just wish my ARB was a winch bar or if I could retrofit/ modify it to make it one. Acres of room behind the bar, just need the correct reinforcing plates etc.

I’d been holding off buying one for mine given it’s pending end of life. Now given I’ve invested in it for the long term I might get one. The trouble is I really want a Defender - but I can’t afford one so I need to let that be for a few years yet.

[CraigE]

With the driving we do any 4x4 we have must have a decent Bullbar. The D4 we just bought had a ARB bar on it and was a big part of the reason we bought this car. Only downside it is not a winch bar, so does not have the cut out panel. Anyone have any idea if these can be modified to mount a winch?

[LRD414]

This thread is for winch mounts without a bullbar.
There's plenty of threads to discuss pros/cons/details of bullbars.

Scott

[Spike The Cat]

Has anyone fitted a hidden winch mount to a SDv6 HSE D4, as apparently Iread somewhere that you can't for some reason.

[loanrangie]

Has anyone fitted a hidden winch mount to a SDv6 HSE D4, as apparently Iread somewhere that you can't for some reason.

Cant see why not, only difference i can think of is maybe the cameras in the bar but a fairlead shouldn't affect that.

[kelvo]

Has anyone fitted a hidden winch mount to a SDv6 HSE D4, as apparently Iread somewhere that you can't for some reason.
It might also be an issue if you have Adaptive Cruise Control, with the radar module being in the way of the mount, or vide versa.

[BrianElloy]

Jeez I’d love to get one of these installed in Perth. Anyone know a mechanic who has done it? Don’t trust myself with this mod!

[Spence]

Flat Link added and bumper repair done.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49220726503_e6f7f075bb_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hZt6az)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49221206156_cc527eaae8_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hZvxKs)
Hi Scott, I know this post is a bit old, but I just installed a hidden winch and had a quick question on the bumper repair. Did they plastic weld? Or was it filled and painted? Can’t find a guy in Melbourne who wants To do it. Cheers.

[LRD414]

Hi Scott, I know this post is a bit old, but I just installed a hidden winch and had a quick question on the bumper repair. Did they plastic weld? Or was it filled and painted? Can’t find a guy in Melbourne who wants To do it. Cheers.
From memory he used plastic welding to close the holes and then painted.

[Spence]

From memory he used plastic welding to close the holes and then painted.
Cool, thanks.

[Milldo]

Just resurrecting this thread as I'm going to go ahead with this for my D3 and was looking for some tips and pointers now that some of you have lived with this modification for a few years now. Is there anything that you would do differently with your installs?

I have ordered the hidden winch mount from LRspares in the UK and the Dominator winch locally.

[Macadamia]

Just resurrecting this thread as I'm going to go ahead with this for my D3 and was looking for some tips and pointers now that some of you have lived with this modification for a few years now. Is there anything that you would do differently with your installs?

I have ordered the hidden winch mount from LRspares in the UK and the Dominator winch locally.

I like the look and have used mine in anger a few times and been grateful. my mistake was buying cheap (Terrafirma). It didn't fit well - I would say it didn't fit at all and required far more modification to the bumper than it should have. I suspect either it was made for D3 and early D4 and just didn't fit well behind the bumper of a facelift 2016 D4 - even after removing all the webbing behind, I had to actually thin out the plastic itself and it still bulges through. That or it is just very poorly designed and fabricated (equally likely). The captive nuts were also welded on poorly and didn't acutally line up with the holes in the cradle. Compared to the likes of prospeed or that italian mob who make a nice looking one, the side supports to hold the wiper reservoir and on the other side, are poor and weak. I mounted the controller box to it and I'm actually a little surprised it's still intact after cape york.

After doing a 10,000km round trip to the cape and watching two others in our convoy hit a roo, I did think if anything happened to my bumper I would just go for a bullbar. It's not a fancy and I do like th D4 front end but the anxiety of animal strike in the outback is real for me!

[LRD414]

Just resurrecting this thread as I'm going to go ahead with this for my D3 and was looking for some tips and pointers now that some of you have lived with this modification for a few years now. Is there anything that you would do differently with your installs?
I wouldn’t change anything with mine, very happy with the complete setup.

[Tombie]

For an urban based owner who usually travels in daylight beyond the city these are a great solution.

For others, like me, full bar work is the only go.

If I’d gone discreet route, I’d have rebuilt my front end about 20 times now.

[dirvine]

For an urban based owner who usually travels in daylight beyond the city these are a great solution.

For others, like me, full bar work is the only go.

If I’d gone discreet route, I’d have rebuilt my front end about 20 times now.

I think you will find the Devon discreet winch mount is far more robust as it replaces the original bar that is removed and not replaced in the cheaper cradles that are sold. Not as strong as a BB, but at least better protection that two "L" strip of metal.

[Tombie]

I think you will find the Devon discreet winch mount is far more robust as it replaces the original bar that is removed and not replaced in the cheaper cradles that are sold. Not as strong as a BB, but at least better protection that two "L" strip of metal.

I mean as in 20+ animal strikes on the bar that would have broken the front of the vehicle

[veebs]

I mean as in 20+ animal strikes on the bar that would have broken the front of the vehicle

You know Tombie, when most people go hunting, they use a gun, rather than the front of the car...

[DieselLSE]

You know Tombie, when most people go hunting, they use a gun, rather than the front of the car...
Shhh! Don't tell him that. Imagine the damage he could do if he had a firearm!

[RANDLOVER]

Shhh! Don't tell him that. Imagine the damage he could do if he had a firearm!

Much more efficient hunting without a firearm, as one doesn't have to drag the carcass back to the car, and also can drive over it a few times to tenderise it.

[Tombie]

Shhh! Don't tell him that. Imagine the damage he could do if he had a firearm!

“A” firearm [emoji2957]. Mine all just hunt paper (target)!

[Milldo]

So, I have managed to fit the DA7537 hidden cradle and Dominator 12000lb winch. I get a bit stuck with the position of the winch solenoid and since this is my only vehicle I had to bolt it all together again to complete the electrics another day.

It looks like the options are;

1: The spare battery box, near the brake servo - would have to move my second battery somewhere else
2: On the supplied bracket which bolts to the winch cradle - this seems to be a bit low and vulnerable to water ingress
3: The space near the coolant expansion tank - would need to relocate my redarc split charge relay

Any other possibilities? Photos of your installs would be appreciated.

cheers
Milldo

[Macadamia]

So, I have managed to fit the DA7537 hidden cradle and Dominator 12000lb winch. I get a bit stuck with the position of the winch solenoid and since this is my only vehicle I had to bolt it all together again to complete the electrics another day.

It looks like the options are;

1: The spare battery box, near the brake servo - would have to move my second battery somewhere else
2: On the supplied bracket which bolts to the winch cradle - this seems to be a bit low and vulnerable to water ingress
3: The space near the coolant expansion tank - would need to relocate my redarc split charge relay

Any other possibilities? Photos of your installs would be appreciated.

cheers
Milldo

I mounted mine to the side L bracket on the cradle. not idea but my thought process was that they are usually mounted on the front and subject to all the weather, stones, rocks, submerged in rivers so should be well sealed and able to withstand a lot. it has served me well where it is I have had no problems. my only concern was the weak L bracket causing it to vibrate and knock into things.

I've routed the cabling a bit better and put them through some conduit to protect from rubbing. this photo was taken when I was just testing everything.
180801 180800

I've mounted a solenoid/isolated to the side of the dual battery tray and a switch inside the cab to isolate the winch.
180802

[DiscoJeffster]

I mounted mine to the side L bracket on the cradle. not idea but my thought process was that they are usually mounted on the front and subject to all the weather, stones, rocks, submerged in rivers so should be well sealed and able to withstand a lot. it has served me well where it is I have had no problems. my only concern was the weak L bracket causing it to vibrate and knock into things.

I've routed the cabling a bit better and put them through some conduit to protect from rubbing. this photo was taken when I was just testing everything.
180801 180800

I've mounted a solenoid/isolated to the side of the dual battery tray and a switch inside the cab to isolate the winch.
180802

Based on how pretty that looks, you need to get outdoors and actually use that winch [emoji51]

[Macadamia]

Based on how pretty that looks, you need to get outdoors and actually use that winch [emoji51]

it's had plenty of use thanks [wink11]

180811 180812 180813

[DiscoJeffster]

it's had plenty of use thanks [wink11]

180811 180812 180813

Respect

[dirvine]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/131623d1509595131-hidden-winch-d3-4-standard-bumper-no-roo-bar-f12e16d1-6526-4e3d-830a-8b93d0ff941a.jpg

[Tombie]

What’s with that thin cable [emoji41][emoji106][emoji56]

[l00kin4]

Well, after dithering on this for a few years, I've finally got this sorted. Not without a much more painful saga that I would have liked though.

I was really struggling to find the time to do the job myself so entrusted installation of the mount and winch to my normally excellent indy.

I still think they're excellent but I was probably overly optimistic, bordering on delusional to think that they would do this as neatly as I would have liked.

Prospeed winch mount, Bushranger Revo 10s winch and the same BlueSea remote isolator used by Scott.

So many things went wrong.

1. The Prospeed kit included a number plate mount which I wasn't expecting and didn't notice was in there, so despite me telling them specifically that I'd moved the number plate to the upper bumper to clear the lower for the installation, they installed the Prospeed number plate mount to the fairlead, cut a larger slot out of the bumper bar and then removed the number plate form the upper bumper where I'd specifically relocated it and put it on the mount plate. See ugly hole picture below.

2. Rather than mount the winch control box on the driver's side mounting area / plate, they decided there wasn't enough room there [bighmmm] and cable tied !!!!! the control box into the winch mount next to the winch! See dodgy cable tied control box pic below. Imagine how long that wouldn't last on a corrugated road.

3. They ran the earth to the -ve of my second battery rather than to an earth stud. Winch cable size about double the size of battery earth cable. In the process of this also detaching (and not reconnecting) my Traxide isolator and battery monitors. Hmm

So I ended up removing the bumper, relocating the control box and cabling, repairing the hole - plastic welding - in the bumper and painting it, remounting the number plate to the top bumper and repairing all of my disconnected / broken cables... plus mounting the winch earth to the earth studs (I bridged the 2 studs with a plate) passenger side where aux battery lives. [bawl]

Luckily I'd asked them to leave the switch installation in the cabin to me. I can only imagine the butchery I may have seen there. I also added a Factor55 FlatSplicer which I think looks pretty good.

Some photos of the before and after below. Still not as nice as I would have liked it but it could be worse - well, it was actually. [bigwhistle]

185732185733185731185735185730

[Tombie]

Got any pics of the isolator??

[l00kin4]

Hi Tombie, I’ll have to take one of it mounted - I made a bracket for it that is attached to my auxiliary battery tray. This is the isolator: Blue Sea Systems Ml-Rbs Remote Battery Switch With Manual Control – 12V Dc 500A | Outback Equipment (https://www.outbackequipment.com.au/blue-sea-systems-ml-rbs-remote-battery-switch-with?cq_src=google_ads&cq_cmp=17994277186&cq_term=&cq_plac=&cq_net=x&cq_plt=gp&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrvu9q6LA_wIVAllgCh24pgfqEAQYBSAB EgIA0fD_BwE)


Got any pics of the isolator??

[Tombie]

Hi Tombie, I’ll have to take one of it mounted - I made a bracket for it that is attached to my auxiliary battery tray. This is the isolator: Blue Sea Systems Ml-Rbs Remote Battery Switch With Manual Control – 12V Dc 500A | Outback Equipment (https://www.outbackequipment.com.au/blue-sea-systems-ml-rbs-remote-battery-switch-with?cq_src=google_ads&cq_cmp=17994277186&cq_term=&cq_plac=&cq_net=x&cq_plt=gp&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrvu9q6LA_wIVAllgCh24pgfqEAQYBSAB EgIA0fD_BwE)

That would be great. Thanks.

I have 2 of those sitting here (1 already in the 90) and one waiting to go in my D4. Just not sure where I can fit it given my current underbonnet set up, so your pics may inspire.

[l00kin4]

A couple of photos Tombie. I had a bracket in this position already with a switch and outlet for my compressor. Since I've installed a switch for the compressor in the headlight switch binnacle I removed that and made a bracket just for the air outlet and this isolator. It's snug but fits well in this spot.


That would be great. Thanks.

I have 2 of those sitting here (1 already in the 90) and one waiting to go in my D4. Just not sure where I can fit it given my current underbonnet set up, so your pics may inspire.

185746185747

[Tombie]

Thanks. My challenge continues! That area is already well consumed on my set-up

[Tombie]

My current corner!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230615/f789a01ebc9ec8efcc82dc850bc7a011.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230615/a59ad03892ad0a42140e3ae109fa1d0a.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230615/4caa2cc11d2d13585cb47f2bab5a4a9e.jpg

I’ll take another look and see if I can squeeze it in there somewhere.

[l00kin4]

There's a lot going on there Tombie. Will the isolator fit inboard of the battery if you shimmy that relay over a bit ?

David

[Tombie]

There's a lot going on there Tombie. Will the isolator fit inboard of the battery if you shimmy that relay over a bit ?

David

That is now on the weekend task list. [emoji41]

Otherwise some more metal fabrication may be in order to make a stand-off.

[Strop]

So a question from a non winch person trying to understand some things.

Is a fairlead a standard size? Does it get impacted by winch or winch mount tray?

Ok you obviously need something on the end of your winch rope but I have seen a wide variety. So what is the difference between what people have placed on the end of their winch rope? I have seen 2 types of Factor 55 ends. Why different? What makes the hook so expensive?

Sorry trying to understand this.

[loanrangie]

So a question from a non winch person trying to understand some things.

Is a fairlead a standard size? Does it get impacted by winch or winch mount tray?

Ok you obviously need something on the end of your winch rope but I have seen a wide variety. So what is the difference between what people have placed on the end of their winch rope? I have seen 2 types of Factor 55 ends. Why different? What makes the hook so expensive?

Sorry trying to understand this.

Personal choice, you can go with the fancy overpriced F55, a common hook or even a rated shackle. Fairlead's are generally a standard size but there are variations like off-set etc depending on what bar or tray you have.
My ARB bar was made for a roller fairlead so i needed an off-set fairlead so that the synthetic rope was routed correctly.

[dirvine]

At the end of my Synthetic Rope I have a nut and bolt through the eyelet. The rope is wound up tight with the bolt firm against the fairlead. That way the number plate sits fairly flush with the bumper bar in its down position. I use big shackle bolts rather than hooks. But I do carry a hook just in case I am using a drag chain.