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View Full Version : BAS 2.2 150hp vs 170hp



karlz
28th October 2017, 04:57 PM
Hi All,

I have had the BAS 150 tune on my 2015 110 for over a year now.
I was very happy with its performance, but I was curious how it compared with the 170.
I only have the standard intercooler, I still have about 6 months warranty on the car, but I decided to trial the 170 for couple of weeks before the warmer weather kicks in.

The 170 is way better than the 150.
Not only is there noticeably more power, but the car is way more responsive, seems like there is no flat spot at all.
The engine revs much more freely.

I swapped back to 150 yesterday, and the car isn't as fun anymore :(

I'm sort of looking forward to warranty expiry now:imwithstupid:, so that I can buy a new intercooler and map back to 170.

LouNat58
28th October 2017, 05:01 PM
Is the bas map something you do yourself?

Tombie
28th October 2017, 05:10 PM
Just order the IC and fit it [emoji41] life’s too short..

Zeros
28th October 2017, 06:34 PM
Agree life's short, I want BAS 170. ...what's the consensus on best Intercooler - new BAS vs Allisport?

Also, reckon I might do Ashcroft ATB in centre diff before putting substantially more grunt down the line...any thoughts on that as a priority? ...Also, Allisport radiator?

Cheers

Tombie
28th October 2017, 07:40 PM
Just order the IC and fit it [emoji41] life’s too short..

Tombie
28th October 2017, 07:42 PM
New BAS IC is the dogs danglers

Colmoore
28th October 2017, 07:46 PM
I've got the Allisport in front of my 2.4, but my remap is less than 170. I went for economy and better torque curves as well as grunt. I don't need to spin the wheels with the camper trailer on... We were over 5t inc camper trailer and only had one little issue with it getting hot (not really sure why and it hasn't happened again.) We were climbing up out of Cairns over the mountains and the needle hovered at the nerve wracking point for a short time. It was very hot and humid but it was pretty warm going up the Cape and through the Gulf country too.

Tombie
28th October 2017, 08:36 PM
2.4s seem more susceptible to heat than the 2.2 for some reason I’m not aware of.

Summer here is pretty hard on vehicle cooling and we don’t seem to have any issues.

cuppabillytea
28th October 2017, 08:48 PM
The 170 tune does not like 40+ and won't go hard for long at 30+ on a stock intercooler.
I want a B.A.S. IC myself.

Zeros
28th October 2017, 09:17 PM
2.4s seem more susceptible to heat than the 2.2 for some reason I’m not aware of.

Summer here is pretty hard on vehicle cooling and we don’t seem to have any issues.

Radiator?

Zeros
28th October 2017, 09:18 PM
The 170 tune does not like 40+ and won't go hard for long at 30+ on a stock intercooler.
I want a B.A.S. IC myself.

So risky in northern Australia.

Why BAS over Allisport?

cuppabillytea
28th October 2017, 09:26 PM
So risky in northern Australia.

Why BAS over Allisport?

The B.A.S. fits straight in. The Allisport requires some slight modification to the radiator mounting brackets. Also, by all accounts, the B.A.S. is a more effective unit, but I don't have any experience to be unequivocal on the subject.

tact
28th October 2017, 09:27 PM
Agree life's short, I want BAS 170. ...what's the consensus on best Intercooler - new BAS vs Allisport?

Also, reckon I might do Ashcroft ATB in centre diff before putting substantially more grunt down the line...any thoughts on that as a priority? ...Also, Allisport radiator?

Cheers
Been driving mine like I stole it on every drive for the past couple of years! (w/- 170 with Allisport IC - BAS IC wasn’t available back then). It’s my daily driver, as well as doing hard slogs in the jungle, and high speed highway runs from KL to Singapore, or KL to Penang.

Have ashcroft ATBs in front and rear diffs. Figured if ever the transfer case needed work I’d toss in the Ashcroft centre diff ATB.

But after years of flogging the vehicle hard the transfer case hasn’t needed any attention.

So far as priorities go - it’s not likely the BAS 170 tune that will kill the centre diff. (You can kill the centre diff yourself in seconds in stock tune - just leave it unlocked and do some serious wheel spinning.)

if if you run the 170 tune without the larger IC you are courting trouble. Set up the BAS tool for live monitoring. Particularly monitor intake ambient air temp and air temp after the intercooler (air temp going into engine). In standard tune, or 150 tune, with stock IC, regardless how hard or long you sustain full throttle, the air temp after IC will be close to ambient. (My actual experience).

With stock IC and 170 tune - after a minute of working hard (loud pedal to the floor) the air temp after the IC shoots way up!
(of course with the larger IC air temp after IC is always close to ambient)

filcar
28th October 2017, 09:35 PM
I've got the Allisport in front of my 2.4, but my remap is less than 170. I went for economy and better torque curves as well as grunt. I don't need to spin the wheels with the camper trailer on... We were over 5t inc camper trailer and only had one little issue with it getting hot (not really sure why and it hasn't happened again.) We were climbing up out of Cairns over the mountains and the needle hovered at the nerve wracking point for a short time. It was very hot and humid but it was pretty warm going up the Cape and through the Gulf country too.

if the needle you are referring to is the Land Rover temp gauge in the dash then she was really hot. I have an ultra gauge which gets its information from the ECU, and I have seen coolant temps of 112C on the ultra gauge and the temp needle on the dash hasn't moved from its usual just under half, coolant temps vary between 85 and 106 depending on the load on the engine. Towing the camper guarantees around 2C increase at least on my MY12 90 with Allisport intercooler and BAS 170.

Zeros
28th October 2017, 10:00 PM
The B.A.S. fits straight in. The Allisport requires some slight modification to the radiator mounting brackets. Also, by all accounts, the B.A.S. is a more effective unit, but I don't have any experience to be unequivocal on the subject.

When you say 'by all accounts' is there any discussion on here as to why bas Intercooler is better?

cuppabillytea
28th October 2017, 10:55 PM
When you say 'by all accounts' is there any discussion on here as to why bas Intercooler is better?
Go to the search bar at the bottom of the page and type in B.A.S. Intercooler v Allisport Intercooler, and have a read.
Pete Bell was doing fine selling the Allisport so going to all the trouble of designing and producing his own speaks volumes to me. He claims better flow and cooling but I can't verify that without doing a comparison.
There is no risk running the tune without an intercooler upgrade. The only downside is less performance.
I drive mine on the standard IC with the 170 tune and I drive fairly hard. most of the time its fine but with high ambient temperatures the performance drops. I tend to believe Pete's claims because I have found him to be a straight up genuine bloke who seeks to get the maximum performance from his products.
Situated where you are, I'd suggest that you upgrade your Intercooler. Either one will be good for your stated purposes and as I said there is no risk if you don't but you will find you will want to.

Tombie
28th October 2017, 11:12 PM
The other factor to consider with the tunes is if you plan to fit a snorkel.

Pete did extensive dyno testing and flow testing and all the snorkels drop power.

The safari having the lowest impact

Zeros
29th October 2017, 06:08 AM
Go to the search bar at the bottom of the page and type in B.A.S. Intercooler v Allisport Intercooler, and have a read.
Pete Bell was doing fine selling the Allisport so going to all the trouble of designing and producing his own speaks volumes to me. He claims better flow and cooling but I can't verify that without doing a comparison.
There is no risk running the tune without an intercooler upgrade. The only downside is less performance.
I drive mine on the standard IC with the 170 tune and I drive fairly hard. most of the time its fine but with high ambient temperatures the performance drops. I tend to believe Pete's claims because I have found him to be a straight up genuine bloke who seeks to get the maximum performance from his products.
Situated where you are, I'd suggest that you upgrade your Intercooler. Either one will be good for your stated purposes and as I said there is no risk if you don't but you will find you will want to.

thanks Billy T, very helpful.

...it's a shame Pete can't offer the spare ecu any longer. That would be real peace of mind for regional remote areas. I'll need to source on because I'd prefer to keep my original ecu stock if possible as a back up.

Zeros
29th October 2017, 06:10 AM
The other factor to consider with the tunes is if you plan to fit a snorkel.

Pete did extensive dyno testing and flow testing and all the snorkels drop power.

The safari having the lowest impact

Cheers Tombie that's good to know. So 170 tune would be preferable with snorkel.

karlz
29th October 2017, 04:26 PM
Posted group buy here https://www.aulro.com/afvb/group-buy/255212-bas-hi-flow-intercooler.html#post2735399

Tombie
29th October 2017, 04:44 PM
Cheers Tombie that's good to know. So 170 tune would be preferable with snorkel.

I think you may have misread it..

The optimum is no snorkel, standard grill (he tested aftermarket intake grills also)...

But if your needs require a snorkel his tests showed Safari to be the lesser performance loss. (I’m looking into APT custom version to keep flow)

Tombie
29th October 2017, 04:45 PM
thanks Billy T, very helpful.

...it's a shame Pete can't offer the spare ecu any longer. That would be real peace of mind for regional remote areas. I'll need to source on because I'd prefer to keep my original ecu stock if possible as a back up.

No need... a tune doesn’t make the ECU any less reliable.

I carried a spare TD5 ECU from day one and have never needed it to the point of not worrying about it.

AndyG
30th October 2017, 08:16 PM
Apart from the 3 Allisport diffs, i have the BAS 150 ecu and I/C, what seems to have made a positive impact is a Nugget air intake plumbing and a terrafirma straight thru centre pipe which eliminates a muffler. I think iam all done with the mods :-( :'(

jon3950
30th October 2017, 08:33 PM
I think iam all done with the mods :-( :'(

Of course you are. You just keep telling yourself that. [bigrolf]

karlz
1st November 2017, 03:47 PM
...terrafirma straight thru centre pipe which eliminates a muffler. ...(

Hi What part number is that? I assume you have it in a 2.2 Puma?

filcar
1st November 2017, 04:49 PM
Hi What part number is that? I assume you have it in a 2.2 Puma?

Any exhaust shop will replace the centre muffler, less forthcoming to make up a de-cat pipe tho.

AndyG
1st November 2017, 05:37 PM
Hi What part number is that? I assume you have it in a 2.2 Puma?
No idea sorry, btw i also wrapped the exhaust, mskes it much cooler, including the gearbox, if you believe the TMS2

Tombie
1st November 2017, 06:31 PM
No idea sorry, btw i also wrapped the exhaust, mskes it much cooler, including the gearbox, if you believe the TMS2

That it would.....

Bagsalino
2nd November 2017, 09:34 AM
Hi All,
I put the 170 into my late 2013 Defender 110 in 2014. Bought the puter off Bell and he shipped it over here. Then we sorted the module over the net using Teamviewer. Then i installed it in place of the under warranty puter using my Ipad. I carried the warranty one in a Coles shopping bag under the back seat then in case i needed to go to a Dealer before the 3 years were up. Also, he sent the upgraded intercooler, and the silicon hose set.
Goes like a dream now. Anyone who drives it says ....." This thing is quick ".

Hokoman
2nd November 2017, 09:39 AM
Agree life's short, I want BAS 170. ...what's the consensus on best Intercooler - new BAS vs Allisport?

Also, reckon I might do Ashcroft ATB in centre diff before putting substantially more grunt down the line...any thoughts on that as a priority? ...Also, Allisport radiator?

Cheers

I agree that the Ashcroft Centre diff in this case is nice but unnecessary.
Having said that I've been meaning to write up my experience of fitting Ashcroft ATB diffs to front, centre and rear of my 2009 2.4 Puma with 105k klms on it in France.
As my mechanic replied when I asked him if the Ashcroft products were much superior to the standard Landy, he said "It's a world of difference!"
I also had the Ashcroft MT82 output shaft fix fitted - it seemed a no-brainer given that the Transfer Box was going to come out.
The original was OK, but dry of course.
The difference in the vehicle is just immediately apparent. 90% of the backlash gone. Everything feels not so much smoother but "softer".
Also keep in mind many experienced mechanics consider the driveline in the Puma generally to be weaker than previous Defenders, especially the earlier 2.4 models which had the 2 pin front diff. **** weak. The 4 pin rear is apparently more robust.
Sorry, don't want to hijack the thread. What I really wanted to say is if you or anyone does replace their centre diff, or has their Puma transfer box worked on, in my opinion it's really worth it to fit the Ashcroft MT82 Output shaft kit.

1nando
2nd November 2017, 04:35 PM
I agree that the Ashcroft Centre diff in this case is nice but unnecessary.
Having said that I've been meaning to write up my experience of fitting Ashcroft ATB diffs to front, centre and rear of my 2009 2.4 Puma with 105k klms on it in France.
As my mechanic replied when I asked him if the Ashcroft products were much superior to the standard Landy, he said "It's a world of difference!"
I also had the Ashcroft MT82 output shaft fix fitted - it seemed a no-brainer given that the Transfer Box was going to come out.
The original was OK, but dry of course.
The difference in the vehicle is just immediately apparent. 90% of the backlash gone. Everything feels not so much smoother but "softer".
Also keep in mind many experienced mechanics consider the driveline in the Puma generally to be weaker than previous Defenders, especially the earlier 2.4 models which had the 2 pin front diff. **** weak. The 4 pin rear is apparently more robust.
Sorry, don't want to hijack the thread. What I really wanted to say is if you or anyone does replace their centre diff, or has their Puma transfer box worked on, in my opinion it's really worth it to fit the Ashcroft MT82 Output shaft kit.I run all of the above mods plus some and couldnt agree more.

I did a lot of extensive EGT testing last summer. I have an Alive tune amd cooler so i can't comment on the BAS tune specifically.

However a few points;

-A tune in Australia without a cooler upgrade is a bit silly in my opinion. A fully loaded vehicle on a 35 plus day will more than likely run high EGT readings. With the Alive cooler my intake temp is usually 4-5 degrees more than the atmo temp, which is great.

- the standard exhaust is restrictive amd runs higher EGTS. You dont necessarily have to increase diameter as you do flow. Simply do a decat and remove centre muffler, leave rear muffler on.

- running a snorkel robs some power, however running a snorkel has more positives thans negatives in my opinion. However this comes down to the individuals requirements and what they intend to use the vehicle for.

- a tuned vehicle, hot (35+) weather and air con blairing leads to a higher engine load and thus greater requirement of working load to keep the same vehicle moment and hence higher EGTS. Would i run a 170hp tune without a cooler and exhaust flow improvement on a hot day up a long hill at 110kmph with the air con blaring? No! The highest EGT reading I've ever had is 612 pre turbo in the manifold, id reckon it'd be close to 700 or more without a cooler and exhaust mods under the above mentioned example (i literally tested that a few times, when i hit 612 it was 37 degrees)

Sorry for long post....hopefully its good advice and helps those that are curious.